Regearing

[2stroke]

The time has finally come for me to make a big decision for my Mazda B4000. I have been through the whole thing and much of it is new. I went through the engine and tranny as well as the suspension. The only things left are to replace the windshield and body mounts. The thing is my tires are getting so weather checked it is starting to worry me. I am going to need tires ASAP (in about a month). The thing is, I always intended to run 31" tires, and have stock 235/75/15 now. The hold up is I have 3.27 gearing. It is great for 60+ mph on stock tires, but I rarely go over 60, and also tow a lot. Option one is to keep it stock and just grab some cheap stock size tires and run it. The option I want is to regear and run 31's as well as replace the windshield and body mounts. Money is the huge factor, so I am asking for some Ideas to keep it cheap.

The rear axle I'm pretty well decided on. I want to find a LS 4.10 with disk brakes, from a 2nd gen explorer. The front is where I am stuck. My seals are leaking, so either way my front axle is coming off soon. I am not against the idea of a solid axle swap, but its totally unnecessary for my needs. Best case senario I think would be a D35 TTB from a first gen explorer with 4.10 (or is it 4.11?). To further my options, I was wondering if anyone had a link to a ring and pinion set for the dana 35 TTB for cheap. I have a little money now, but I'm hoping to keep this under $1000. I'm planning on $600 just for tires.

I am pretty well set on 4.10, as according to my calculations, this will provide a good cruising RPM, yet keep me right in the power band in 4th gear at 55-60 mpg for towing (I have the 5 speed manual). This brings me to another question, and that is recalibrating the speedometer. With 31's and 4.10 it will be fairly accurate, however, its cheap and easy to swap out the speedometer gear. I could do a little math later, but if anyone has a chart or something on which one I need, that would help.

I should mention I do have a D35 on my Mazda, its a ranger from the frame up, but an explorer from there down. I assume I have 28 spline ranger axles, but am not certain. I would prefer the 31 of the explorers, but I guess I don't see what would be wrong with the 28. This is my daily driver, that sees even harder work off the pavement on the weekends.

I have all new bushings in my front axle, as well as coil springs, wheel bearings, etc. The rear just has new drums and shoes, and I can use those for another project later. I also would like the stronger explorer leaf spring, but I don't want to lift my rear any more than it is. I am sprung over the axle, and the perches are tall. Maybe the explorer springs with a custom short perch.

Well thats enough rambling, thanks for the help in advance.

 

[Rhett]

I too am looking for a 4.10 LS disc brake rear, and not having any luck so far.
I'd even be ok with an open rear if I can get 4.10's and discs. I can always add a locker.

I too have 3.27's and am planning to regear to 4.10's. 4.11 seems to be the front ratio as far as I can tell. You will need D35 reverse rotation, at least that's what it is on the 1st gen Ex.

I am not at home right now, but on my home computer I have vendor info, etc. on gears. I think it was Yukon Gear that had a D35 4.11 reverse set.

3.27 with 31's sucks, and I ran it for a long time with no tranny damage, but my plan was always to eventually re-gear.

 

[2stroke]

The best price I have found for the D35 is $240. I suppose it's possible to sell my 3.27's, but who would buy that? I have decided open diff front is about the only way for me. I have an open rear now, and its not that fun. I do have a 94 explorer sitting in back waiting for spring when I'll turn it into a beast. It has a LS 3.73 rear. I don't see why I couldn't steal the carrier off that, and replace the LS pack, then use the 4.10 gears. Just more work. I plan on welding the explorers diff anyway, as it will never see the road again, only trails and mud. Spools are too mainstream.:roll: Drum brakes aren't the end of the world, but I sure don't like them.

 

[vq5speed]

I just won a new set of 4.56R D35 with full bearing installation kit for $100 shipped off ebay. Picked up a set of used 8.8 4.56 for $50.00 and the installation kit cost $49.00. You can find deals on ebay just have to be ready to buy when you see it.

 

[FR-425]

This is a good deal on the 8.8 4:10 OEM gear set. $160

http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Racing-M420988410-4-10-Pinion/dp/B009XRPHB8

4:10's for the front are not cheap. (cause their not common.) go to 4:56 and the price and availability improve.

http://www.justdifferentials.com/M35R-411R-OE-p/m35r-411r-oe.htm

4:10 Dana 35 (rear) axle you can get super cheap cause they ran it in the mustangs and jeeps.

 

[jtexplorer]

I recently bought a new 4.11 ring and pinion for my front D35. Autoanything.com was the cheapest I could find by about $90!

The salvage yard by me has at least two more 4.10 disc 8.8's. I paid $300 or $350. Are either of you near Bismarck, North Dakota?

- Joe

 

[2stroke]

Looks like doorman has the ring and pinion for the 8.8 for $120, and the installation for just over $50. If I can't find a rear axle less than $250, I may go that route. I'm not that close to Bismark, I'm in central MN. One of my best friends families owns a junk yard not too far from me, and there is always plenty to pick from at french lake which is only 10 miles from my house. East coast gear supply has a brand called motive gear. 3.55, 3.73, and 4.56 are listed at $150. 4.10 tells you to call for availability. If I could get that for under $200, that would be a way to go. I'm not concerned with the quality of the front, as I don't run it that hard. The rear does get run hard on pavement, so I would rather not buy doorman brand, and get a used axle. That amazon deal does look pretty good though. I'll start calling around. Has anyone had luck selling their higher geared set as in 3.73, 3.55, or 3.27?

edit: looking at the picture for the motive gear set, it looks to be low cut for a jeep.

 

[2stroke]

Doing some quick and inaccurate math here...

Front gear set $240
Front install kit $80
rear axle $250
various odds and ends $100
tires $600

total: $1270

I guess not the end of the world. More than I want to spend, but I'm sure it will be fun. Better yet, maybe I'll fix the little stuff now, and leave this for the tax returns. I still have to have the windshield replaced and I may or may not tackle the body mounts.

 

[2stroke]

Not even looking out of the blue, I came across a ford 8.8 from a wrecked ranger with 4.10 gears. $175 OBO. The only thing holding me back is it has 10" drums, same as I have. Has anyone converted the rears to disk brakes?

edit: same place might have a 4.10 form a second gen explorer with disks, asking $150. Its about 15 miles from me, I might have to jump on this.

 

[2stroke]

Went ahead and called. From a 98 explorer, 4.10 gears, disk brakes, they pull it for me, I pick it up next week for $150. It doesn't come with leaf springs, but big deal. I'll weld my perches on, and run my springs. One thing is its stated as a locking rear. I didn't even know that came stock. Maybe its a POSI? Axle code is S61E? For that price I can't pass it up. I better start saving, because this plan is now in motion.

 

[Rhett]

Went ahead and called. From a 98 explorer, 4.10 gears, disk brakes, they pull it for me, I pick it up next week for $150. It doesn't come with leaf springs, but big deal. I'll weld my perches on, and run my springs. One thing is its stated as a locking rear. I didn't even know that came stock. Maybe its a POSI? Axle code is S61E? For that price I can't pass it up. I better start saving, because this plan is now in motion.

S61E? Never seen that one. Ford 8.8's are all D4 / 27 / D10 etc. "S61E" is on the diff tag?

It's got some magic LS or locker in it, sounds like. ??

 

[2stroke]

Couldn't tell you, thats what's in the add. 4.10 disk brake for sure, and that's all that matters to me.

 

[Rhett]

Couldn't tell you, thats what's in the add. 4.10 disk brake for sure, and that's all that matters to me.

That may have something nice in the pumpkin.

Here's my regear notes that I said I would dig up earlier:
ALL 8.8 Explorer rears are 31 spline with a 7/8" cross shaft.

Gear ratio calculator:
http://www.4lo.com/4LoCalc.htm

Randy's Ring and pinion.com

4.11 (front) for Dana35 reverse IFS (94 Explorer dana35):
http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/Produ...Front Diff - 4WD&DiffId=239&Source=DiffWizard

East coast Gear Supply
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/


Great thread on regear: (post #17 in particular)
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169749

 

[2stroke]

To get into some real specifics of this project I have a couple questions. The first is can I use my dana 35 ttb carrier? I am 99% positive I can, but I have seen mentions of different carriers for 3.55 and below. I think this is for the dana 28 ttb. The next is that explorer axle is actually a full inch wider than the ranger 8.8. This is ok with me, I was just wondering if it is very noticeable. I HATE wheel spacers, so I want to avoid them on the front if at all possible. A picture is worth a 1000 words here, and I can't find one on google of an explorer 8.8 under a ranger. The axle tube is bigger on the explorer too, which will lift my rear just under a 1/4". No big deal. I'll just add some coil spacers in front. My rear is about 1-1 1/2" taller in back, so a 1/2" coil spacer will do fine.

What I really want to know is can I weld on my perches on the axle, but keep the explorer ones on there. I suppose in the event many years in the future I need explorer perches again, I can just weld them back on.

I have heard the explorer axle tubes are just pressed into the diff. I don't know if the ranger ones are, but is it worth it weld them up? I can easily do it, I just want to know if it is possible to cause any damage or leaks.

I have done a lot of research on re gearing the Dana 35, and so far it seems doable for me. I have access to true professionals if I need to. Any out of the ordinary tools I will need?

I'll take pictures as I go. There's plenty on the 8.8, but not a lot of data on the dana 35, not the TTB at least. Most capable of this kind of work rip it out for a 44 or 60.

 

[Maniak]

The first is can I use my dana 35 ttb carrier? I am 99% positive I can, but I have seen mentions of different carriers for 3.55 and below

There is no carrier break on the Dana 35 TTB (there is on the Jeep 35 rear axle)

What I really want to know is can I weld on my perches on the axle, but keep the explorer ones on there. I suppose in the event many years in the future I need explorer perches again, I can just weld them back on.

Yes, but then you can hang up on them... they are actually only welded on in a few spots.. It was easy to cut..

I have heard the explorer axle tubes are just pressed into the diff. I don't know if the ranger ones are, but is it worth it weld them up? I can easily do it, I just want to know if it is possible to cause any damage or leaks.

I've read of people welding the plug etc.. but I haven't done much research into it... I have heard of a "few" people twisting but not really many..

I have done a lot of research on re gearing the Dana 35, and so far it seems doable for me. I have access to true professionals if I need to. Any out of the ordinary tools I will need?

When I installed the LS I didn't need anything special.. BUT.. When you are setting up gears you should be using a dial indicator/mount to measure backlash etc..



That's all I got.. hopefully someone else will post up as I'll be regearing next time I need tires.. My issue is going from 4.10 to 4.88 or 5.13 AND I think I need to replace my Detroit in the rear.. It won't unlock & it has been in there for well over 200k miles.

~Mark

 

[FR-425]

S16E on the axle tag is not the axle code it is the date and plant of manufacture code.

In this case it is only the plant name. "Sterling Michigan"

the code above that on the tag is the date code.

 

[mr cribb]

The easiest way to see if it is a limited slip differential is by the tag on the diff cover (assuming it is still attached) it would say 4L10, or if the explorer was still there with the original drivers side door still attached the axle code would read D2.

 

[mr cribb]

Honestly with a 5 speed manual 4.10s are overkill for 31s. 3.73s are the limit for 31s (with an autotragic).

 

[natenkiki2004]

The easiest way to see if it is a limited slip differential is by the tag on the diff cover (assuming it is still attached) it would say 4L10, or if the explorer was still there with the original drivers side door still attached the axle code would read D2.

To extend on this, any axle code with the letter D is a limited slip. D4 is 3.73LS.

You may want the 4.10 but the 3.73 is MUCH more common from what I've seen so you'd have an easier time finding a factory LS in that gear. You could always take the carrier and slap a 4.10 in it with a Ford Racing clutch pack down the road. That way you could see if the 3.73 would work for you.

 

[2stroke]

I have 3.73 front and rear in my yard I could use. I chose 4.10 to give me a good cruise in 4th gear while towing. I tow over a ton often. If we had any cold weather, I would be towing a 3000 pound fish house weekly. With stock tires and 3.27's its pushing it. If I had 3.73, or even 3.55, I wouldn't even sweat it. If I'm going to do the work, I'm going 4.10. I considered 4.56, but its about 3000 rpm at 60 in 4th gear. Too much for me.