2016 oil drain location

[Junkmann2]

Almost at the 5000 mile mark, and want to do the fist oil change. Is there a drain plug, or can the oil be sucked out. If it is sucked out, where is the tube located that is used to suck it out. I searched the forums, but couldn't find the answer, so hopefully someone here has already done this.
Also, what is the oil change resetting procedure, and how can I access the oil life meter on the dash.
thanks

 

[613GT500]

I believe you have to remove the transmission air cooler box to access the oil pan.
The oil life can be reset from the left side cluster, under settings m

 

[Exit32]

Just did my Platinum's first oil/filter change. Very, very easy after removing the small cooling duct that hides the drain plug. Once the duct is removed (three finger-tight fasteners affix it to the vehicle), everything is easy to access.

At 1,775 miles, the factory-fill oil I drained appeared darker than I expected, but it probably had assembly lube dissolved in it. Also noticed that the unmarked factory oil filter was about a half-inch taller than the new Motorcraft FL-500S filter I installed. For new oil, I used Mobil 1 5w30 Extended Performance.

 

[peterk9]

......Also, what is the oil change resetting procedure, and how can I access the oil life meter on the dash.
thanks

It's in the Owner's Manual on page 282, OIL CHANGE INDICATOR RESET. Lots of good info in there to read.

Peter

 

[Uaglio]

Just did one on my 2015 Sport. Easy. Not really anything to add. Maybe get a funnel for oil refill - the oil fill hole is slightly angled. Resetting service light could not be easier; it's done from the steering wheel controls. Do it after you've cleaned everything up. I also noticed that the correct Motorcraft filter (FL-500S) is slightly shorter than the factory one. This is correct.

I've been changing mine at 5,000 mile intervals regardless of the oil service life indicator or the owner's manual. I figure that's a good compromise between hyper-changes and pushing to the roughly 10,000 mile advertised service life. I'm using Mobil 1 full synthetic.

One more comment - I like to do my own changes because it gives me a chance to inspect underneath periodically. The amount of oxidation and corrosion on the oil pan and other aluminum parts and exhaust components is pretty surprising for a 1 year old vehicle. I don't think it will be an issue (i.e., nothing is going to rust thru any time soon), but it does indicate some of the choices Ford made with metals - i.e., they didn't spend money on stainless steel or other alloys that resist powdering up, rusting and and oxidizing, or on extensive powder coating exposed components underneath. If I keep this car 6 years or so as planned, pretty sure an exhaust replacement is in my future in 3-4 years.

 

[Exit32]

I've been changing mine at 5,000 mile intervals regardless of the oil service life indicator or the owner's manual. I figure that's a good compromise between hyper-changes and pushing to the roughly 10,000 mile advertised service life. I'm using Mobil 1 full synthetic.

This is also my approach for all my vehicles. Mobil 1 full synthetic oil and an OEM-brand filter every 5K miles works for me. My other SUV (2004 Buick Rainier V8) has accumulated more than 174,500 miles and it still runs like new.

I also own a '67 Camaro SS 1/4-mile drag car equipped with a small-block V8. With a little nitrous oxide, it runs the quarter mile in 9.07 sec. @ 146.85 mph. I use nothing but off-the-shelf Mobil 1 5w30 in the race car, and annual engine tear-downs have shown zero internal wear over the past dozen years. Gotta love that synthetic motor oil.

 

[Napalm]

so the plug on my explorer was on the back side (back from the perspective of the front bumper) of the pan about mid length.

free and clear and easy to get to. 15mm

filter in front of the pan, IIRC, and also free and clear and easy to get to.


oil for now I'm sticking with motorcraft oil - might move to either penzoil platnium, or amsoil.

filter - sticking with the motorcraft filter for next change - after 20K I'll use either the motorcraft or the wix - whichever is cheaper.

I put magnets on it (small rare earth jobs I pulled out of some headphones scrapped), I trade them to the new filter with each swap.

I go to OLM notice - but mid way through (ball park 0f 4K miles) I trade filters and top off.

 

[peterk9]

Post on oil change intervals have been moved to the appropriate thread;
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309598&highlight=oil+change+interval

Peter

 

[Junkmann2]

I did the oil change today, at 5007 miles, and I used my oil suction pump by putting the probe down the dipstick tube. Changed the oil filter, and noticed while I was looking under the car that there is an oil leak at the rear of the engine. I can't see where it is coming from when looking from above. Another observation is that the replacement Motorcraft oil filter is slightly shorter than the factory unit, and that there appear to be some physical differences internally between the two. The oil monitor said that I had 84% oil life remaining when I changed the oil. Glad that I did it myself, because otherwise, I wouldn't have known about the oil leak.

 

[Napalm]

I'm assuming you are going to take the car to the dealer to look for and verify the oil leak?

 

[peelman]

I did the oil change today, at 5007 miles, and I used my oil suction pump by putting the probe down the dipstick tube. Changed the oil filter, and noticed while I was looking under the car that there is an oil leak at the rear of the engine. I can't see where it is coming from when looking from above. Another observation is that the replacement Motorcraft oil filter is slightly shorter than the factory unit, and that there appear to be some physical differences internally between the two. The oil monitor said that I had 84% oil life remaining when I changed the oil. Glad that I did it myself, because otherwise, I wouldn't have known about the oil leak.

How did the pump work, any obstructions going down the dip stick tube?. I love using my Mittyvac but on my jeep I can't use it as the tube hits the pick up screen or something on the way down. Too bad you didn't take a picture of the leak. Keep us posted on your findings please.

 

[Junkmann2]

No problem putting the plastic tube down the dipstick tube. At first, being that the tube was a little stiff, since this is a new tube on an old pump, I was a bit concerned that it might hit an obstacle and get stuck. It didn't, and I just pushed the plastic tube down as far as it would go. The oil was extremely hot, and that made the tube more relaxed. Once the oil was pumped out, and it was making a "slurping" sound, like a child with a straw in a glass, I tried to push it a little further to see if there was any more oil left at the bottom. There was not. I then removed a plastic rectangular tube from under the car that was held on with 3 thumb screws, and that is when I noticed that it was oil covered on the inside, and the leak at the rear of the engine. For that reason, I decided not to put a wrench on the drain plug, in case that is stripped, I didn't want to be blamed for it. I couldn't see where the oil was coming from, and the car is so low, that it is almost impossible to get under the car very far, unless you jack it up. It was raining on and off, and I just wanted to get finished as quickly as possible.
I will make an appointment with the dealership after Christmas to have it looked at. I just hope that I don't get grief about doing my own first oil change. I will get a picture of it and post in the next few days.
Now to hijack my own thread, I keep getting a message on the screen asking if I want my cars health report, and if I respond yes, it tells me to register my Sync. I just haven't had time to do this, and was wondering if it is a normal message, or if there is something going on that the car is trying to advise me of?
Thanks
Junk

 

[johnnnyo]

Oil leak at 5007 miles?? Damm, good luck.

 

[COEXSPORT]

Now to hijack my own thread, I keep getting a message on the screen asking if I want my cars health report, and if I respond yes, it tells me to register my Sync. I just haven't had time to do this, and was wondering if it is a normal message, or if there is something going on that the car is trying to advise me of?
Thanks
Junk

Normal message. Vehicle health report reminder is probably set for 5000 mile intervals.

 

[pingbling23]

Never sucked my oil out before, what is the benefit of this vs draining?

 

[Junkmann2]

Don't know what manufacturer started this method first, but I do know that was how it was done on my 2005 Mercedes. I find it easier than getting under the car, and to me, that is both a safety measure and a convenience. One one car that I had sucked the oil out, I then opened the drain plug to see how much was left at the bottom of the pan. I barely got enough oil out to fill a shot glass. For this reason, I believe that it is just as good a method as draining from the drain plug. You can't beat this method, when it comes to oil spills on the ground if you bump the drain pan, or don't get it properly located. Another big benefit, is that you don't run the risk of being burned by the hot oil. I always drain my oil when I come back from a longer drive. I don't even shut the engine off until I am ready to remove the oil, so it stays hot, and the contaminants stay in suspension and don't settle to the bottom. This is the way that I was taught to do it back in the 1950's, when contamination of the oil was a much bigger problem that it is today, with modern oils. The only downside is that you need to purchase a oil drain system, and the cost is about $150. They can be purchased at most marine supply stores, since this is the only practical method to drain oil from you inboard boat engine.

 

[Napalm]

for the most part I would agree however. I'm not convinced it gets all the dirt out of the bottom.

something draining out the bottom of the pan potentially does better. for the minimal effort I like draining.

but the real reason they started sucking out the fill port had to do with EPA (or rather EU version of the EPA) and shop site requirements. IF you are sucking it out with a machine you are automaticlly storing it and preventing it from getting on or in the ground.

part 2 - if you have a machine to suck out the car - then you don't need to tie up a lift bay just to do oil changes. This is the bigger advantage for most shops.

but the capture and sealing of the used oil was a big deal in the EU - hence why quite a few EU based car makers starting having their shops use the suck through method on as many car as possible. even adding clear direct paths to the oil pan form the fill and dipstick. (no not all car engines have a clean and easy path to the oil pan from the fill).

it's not a bad idea but again I prefer putting the car up and draining it. I prefer to do the same with my lawn mower, and etc. I admit often however, I r weird.

 

[Junkmann2]

I have a lift in my garage, so I can do it both ways, however, the lift is presently tied up with a restoration project that can't be moved. I hope to use Christmas day to alleviate this situation so I can get the car on the lift to determine where the oil leak is originating. I would prefer to be able to tell the dealership where it is coming from, rather than have the opportunity to say that they can't find a leak, and that it is oil residue from the oil change. Looking at that engine, I can see that any service on it, is not a "walk in the park". I wouldn't want to be a auto tech today, seeing how difficult it is to do any service on these new cars. The most difficult car that I have to do any service on is my Corvair Spyder, and I can have the entire drivetrain out of it in less than an hour. Can't see that happening as quickly on these newer cars, unless there is something that is built into the body that makes drivetrain removal easy.