3.5 Ecoboost slow engine warmup

[JE]

if the engine weren't warming on it's proper curve that the computer would sense it and throw an error code.
I don't believe this! because thermostats are "passive" devices...they are not electrically actuated with control and with "analog" feedback telling the computer the realtime position...the thermostat itself can't output a code based on it's function.

You are right that the thermostat is a dumb device. A simple coil that opens a valve at a certain temperature BUT the ECM can and will throw a code if it senses (via the temp sensor) that the engine isn't heating up quickly enough. I have seen this happen on a VW and yes, replacing the thermostat solved the problem.

The reason this lights the CEL and throws a code is because it's an emissions related item. The engine runs most efficiently at full temp and getting to full temp faster means less emissions and more overall efficiency.

FWIW, I do feel like the Ex takes longer to warm up than other vehicles I've had, but not considerably. Like others have said, 5 minute on the road and you should be hot. Maybe 7 or 8 minutes if it's just at idle.

Hope that helps.

 

[Odrapnew]

Just to put in my $0.02. I have a ’14 Sport and it seems like mine warms up within a reasonable time. For example, today I left for work and it was ~25F outside and maybe 35-40F in the garage. I started it and waited about 1 minute before I drove off. I would say within 5 minutes the seat was hot and the auto hvac was blowing warm air. A few more minutes and it was blowing hot. This is with a 1 minute drive through the neighborhood(20mph) and then onto 55mph roads(actually going about 50 since it was snow covered) with a stop sign within the first mile.

Sounds like the OP should try replacing the thermostat.

 

[Motoarzan]

Thanks for all your feedback members.
I guess my main question to anybody here is the following.
On the coldest of days (below freezing) Have you ever watched your temperature gauge "increase" as you drive and the engine gets warmer and warmer, and then all of a sudden, before the gauge even reaches 1/3rd the way up to the mid point...it changes direction a actually "decreases" in temperature...significantly!

The moment we get a really, really cold day, around -10C/14F I'll record a video and post it. Unfortunate the forecast for the next 2 weeks is around 0C.

 

[Odrapnew]

I can't say I've seen it happen on my Ex although I rarely have the temp gauge showing.

My old Mazda did that as it got "older"(50k miles or so), but it was on below 0F days and would happen at stop lights if I idled for a short period of time. I never looked into so I'm not sure what the cause was, but my bet would have been the thermostat.

They way yours is acting definitely doesn't sound right.

 

[Junkmann2]

Thanks for all your feedback members.
I guess my main question to anybody here is the following.
On the coldest of days (below freezing) Have you ever watched your temperature gauge "increase" as you drive and the engine gets warmer and warmer, and then all of a sudden, before the gauge even reaches 1/3rd the way up to the mid point...it changes direction a actually "decreases" in temperature...significantly!

The moment we get a really, really cold day, around -10C/14F I'll record a video and post it. Unfortunate the forecast for the next 2 weeks is around 0C.

Motoarzan.......... you are beating a dead horse with all your posts, that are just about all the same. If you were to be as vigilant with pestering the dealers service department with this problem, it would be fixed all ready. If they don't want to fix it under the warranty, then just pay the repair, and then argue with Ford when you find that it is repaired. If it isn't the thermostat that is the problem, then you have much more to loose once it is out of warranty.
Let us know what you decide, and when you are going to either fix the problem, or stop complaining about it.

 

[613GT500]

With consistent temps of -10 C the past few days, I have not experienced any delays in engine warm up.
Digital temp display reaches the mid way point no longer than 10min-15min and hot air is blowing from the front and in the back.

 

[bigdude2468]

I agree totally with Junkmann2, what exactly are you trying to find from a bunch of random folks that look at the Ford Ex forum? If you can't or don't want to replace the thermostat yourself take it to the dealer or if out of warranty a reputable repair shop. Low heat is probably a thermostat and quit worrying about the gauge, either the engine gets warm enough to put out heat or it doesn't. If the thermostat is not the culprit maybe the heater control are not working properly.

 

[greg0920]

I have 2013 Ex with the 3.5l cyclone and it warms up pretty quick. I would say with in 10-15 mins of starting the car I have warm enough air to be comfortable. Once I start driving the air get hotter.

 

[1995E]

When i remote start my car for 15 minutes with the 3.5L naturally aspirated, the temp gauge is at the halfway point at most on the coldest days.

Here is a guess to what is happening with the Sport. I can only assume they are running the coolant sooner due to the fact that you have turbos and the turbos are water cooled. I'm sure the turbo chargers get hotter quicker. Therefore, they need to be cooled sooner. Because the coolant starts flowing, you're getting a rush of really cool coolant from the radiator.

Then again, shouldn't the engine run coolant through slowly anyway to keep the coolant close to the temperature of the block so it won't thermal shock it and crack it?

 

[greg0920]

Most turbo engines should have an intercooler to keep it cool so i can't see that being the case. I would go back to the thermostat. Easy way to check it, if it is easy to get to...drain the coolant and remove the thermostat. find a can or cup large enough to hold the stat. Get yourself some hot water(whatever your stat opens at most fords are 190). put the stat in the water and see if it opens properly. If it stays closed or only opens part way its bad and you should replace it. Just my two scents.

 

[Junkmann2]

The problem is just the opposite of what you describe. Modern thermostats are designed to fail in the open mode, so the engine doesn't overheat. He isn't getting heat, so the thermostat is stuck open. This is basic automotive mechanics 101. No heat, replace the thermostat. The problem is further accelerated by the fact that modern cars use radiators made of aluminum, and aluminum offers a better ratio of heat transfer than any other metal. What little heat the engine is generating, is being dissipated more quickly by the aluminum radiator. In this case, with the engine not operating at it proper temperature range, he is taking miles off the longevity of the engine. My guess is that when the engine suffers a major malfunction, he will also blame Ford.

 

[Motoarzan]

My guess is that when the engine suffers a major malfunction, he will also blame Ford.

Dude, whats with pointing fingers and accusing of placing "blame" on Ford if something goes wrong. And you're way off in predicting there will be major engine failure without addressing this issue.
1. The engine reaches normal operating temperature and runs fine. In warm weather the gage gets to the middle mark in no time at all. In cold weather the vehicle seems to take much, much longer to get there than all other vehicles I've ever driven. Hardly something that will result in "major engine failure"
2. I haven't added anything else here lately because I've been battling other issues with the vehicle that coincidentally just came up right at the same time with <2000km left in my warranty.
- Turns out the airblend door motor started grinding (known ford issue!!). But turns out also my air blend door became bent or damaged. Dealer had to drop the steering wheel and literally removed the entire dash assembly from the car. Remove and split the airbox to replace the door as well. Big full day job.
- Also at same time I started getting "zero" heat when stopped at traffic light and engine at idle. The tech heard a gurgle through the heater core but couldn't find visible leak. Where is coolant going in a sealed system with only 58,000km on it? (hope not through head gaskets). Put a tracer dye in coolant, drove for 400km come back to dealer for inspection. Tech finally found the leak...2 pin hole leaks on front and rear hoses that transfer coolant from the front of vehicle to the back of vehicle heater core blower box. Turns out there is an aluminum heater line that runs the length of the vehicle but at the front a hose comes down from the engine block and clamps to the aluminium line, then another hose clamped to aluminum line and goes back up into the vehicle at rear wheel well area. Problem is the hoses are factory clamped to the aluminum line, its a single 8ft long piece and a full 10hr job to replace as part of the work order indicated having to drop the rear different sub frame assembly to put this part up in behind and along the bottom of the frame.
3. It gets better...poor workmanship from this Ford dealers ****ty mechanic made me have to bring vehicle back to shop for 2 days to correct the reinstall of my dash which was crooked and low on the right side and to replace center console trim that goes around cup holders. Seems there are screws that hold that top trim piece from the underside and I know what he did, he mixed up "longer" screws from somewhere else in the dash and upon screwing trim piece together from underside they slightly pierced through trim and visible from top. He did this not once, but twice, having to order new part and come back again! Finally put washers on those screws so would protrude so long and pierce trim but now I know 4 screws "wrong shorter" ones are installed somewhere and holding something else in behind my dash or HVAC system.
4. Also mechanics poor workmanship. discovered scratches and a "gouge" on the inner driver door panel trim from hauling in and out the entire dashboard assembly. Dealer will hire a leather/vinyl repair guy when the weather here gets warmer.
5. Also discovered and have the known Ford paint issue where at the bottom edge of all your doors the paint eventually rubs off a strip along the edge and down to the bare metal from doors "rubbing" against the vehicle frame area...seems the problem is not tall enough standoff tabs along bottom edge of doors...Vehicle will have to go back into shop for few days to have those bottom door edges painted. (guys, check your vehicles for this or premature rust is going to start, it goes down to the bare metal)
6. Also just discovered a split in the side of the leather seat above the plastic trim where the seat adjustment levers are. I'm not a fat guy so this wear is way premature in this spot. Assume the leather/vinyl repair guy will fix this as well when the weather gets warmer.

All the above problems hit right at the same time within the past 1000km and my vehicle was in the shop and a rental provided for a total of 6 business days spread out over 3 visits. Good thing I'm clearing all this up now as I'm 300km over my 60,000km bumper to bumper warranty and now on my own if any further issues come up.

Note: All this HVAC work above did not correct the vehicle warm up time. I may just end up changing the thermostat anyway (out of pocket) as the service manager insists these vehicles take longer that most others to warm up and that it would throw an error code if there were a problem therefor wont look at it under warranty. I still have where on cold days the engine coolant temperature hangs up for an extended time at 60C before eventually continuing to climb to the 80C setpoint (I can see and watch it on my bluetooth OBD tool and "graph" display on my phone app. It's clearly prematurely opening 20DegC earlier than it should and before you start to really get good heat.

 

[Junkmann2]

You need to work on getting control of you anger........

 

[613GT500]

Temp is a bone chilling low today of -49 (including windchill) and the Explorer warmed up pretty reasonable; once I got going and driving for about 15min to the gym.

 

[Motoarzan]

Does anybody know the location of the thermostat and procedure to replace it on the 3.5L ecoboost. Or aware of a youtube repair video or something.
Normally these things are easy and matter of removing a hose and clamp then a couple bolts but engines these days are so complicated and packed tight with little room to work in the engine compartment area.

You can get thermastats online for like $20 bucks...but a dealer here in Canada will charge $100+ for the part alone and a couple hours labor to do the work.

 

[Sgt1411]

Does anybody know the location of the thermostat and procedure to replace it on the 3.5L ecoboost. Or aware of a youtube repair video or something.
Normally these things are easy and matter of removing a hose and clamp then a couple bolts but engines these days are so complicated and packed tight with little room to work in the engine compartment area.

You can get thermastats online for like $20 bucks...but a dealer here in Canada will charge $100+ for the part alone and a couple hours labor to do the work.

Do you remember your build date?.....my 14 Sport has had none of those issues but now you're scaring me.

Mine was Dec 12 2013

You need to order a 17 Sport in March now!

 

[Uaglio]

Just to put in my $0.02. I have a ’14 Sport and it seems like mine warms up within a reasonable time. For example, today I left for work and it was ~25F outside and maybe 35-40F in the garage. I started it and waited about 1 minute before I drove off. I would say within 5 minutes the seat was hot and the auto hvac was blowing warm air. A few more minutes and it was blowing hot. This is with a 1 minute drive through the neighborhood(20mph) and then onto 55mph roads(actually going about 50 since it was snow covered) with a stop sign within the first mile.

Sounds like the OP should try replacing the thermostat.

Same here on my 2015 Sport. But our "cold" conditions here in metro NY are probably laughably springlike in much of Canada, so can't say I've had experience in true protracted cold weather.

 

[Ellocovg]

I come from having driven Toyota Mitsubishi and Acura my whole life and usually with the autostart on for 5 minutes there pumping hot air this one I have it on for about 8 minutes start driving and I won't have hot hot air for pro ally around 10 minutes after I'm on highway going 80 a few miles. And I don't have A ecoboost just the regular 6.

 

[Junkmann2]

It was minus 12 degrees Fahrenheit today, and within 5 minutes I had heat in my 2016 Explorer Sport. Only wish that the Sport had heated rear seats, like the Limited has. That would have made it more comfortable for the passengers.

 

[Linux3]

I'm not sure this is a problem, aka bad thermostat, or the 3.5 EcoBoost is just cold blooded.
Now that the snow is on the ground I find it takes 6 or 7 miles at 40 MPH or so (10 minutes) for the engine to even get to where heat is coming out the vents. Outside temp is 28F ish.
I was really happy that pulling my 3700 lb trailer up and down the hills of Western PA when it was over 90 the engine temp stayed in the mid range.
Is slow to warm up the price I have to pay or is something wrong?