Ford Explorer: Are Your Rear Brakes Dragging... Most Likely Yes!

[FordService]

Tricia - Seeking some assistance on this. I was going back and forth with Ford Customer Service and they asked that I contact the dealer that performed the work. I've provided the dealer with all the documentation to make my argument which I did not have at the time the work was done. The Service Manager at Mahwah Ford (NJ) claims he sent this up the Ford ladder to a woman named Angela, however Angela is apparently not responding (if she even exists) and he will not put me in touch with her directly. He has now asked me to contact Ford customer service again. Seems like I'm getting the run around and I'm not just going to walk away from shelling out money to replace rear pads and rotors after only getting 11K out of them. This thread is evidence that there is a problem and how Ford can let a possible safety issue like this go is troubling.

Hi katkateris,

I'm here to help! Please send your case number my way in a PM; I'm on this.

Todd

 

[silverfz]

My rear pads and rotors I replaced 15k miles before the front. First for me.rear brakes was done at 70k and front at 86k. I brought the explorer with 28k used.

 

[ocracokeBound]

Well, I get to do pads and rotors again today. Yeah! I know it is the dirt around the farm that is messing them up. Who knew an explorer would not like dirt, even my old taurus can handle it.

 

[ocracokeBound]

Ah, the caliper did not want to compress, guess it is toast to. Thanks Ford.

 

[stealthscrape]

Figured I would jump in on this. Not sure why I didn't think to check here first, but this has me even more frustrated.

I just had to have my 2013 Explorer (just over 40k miles) recently towed to the dealer because my rear calipers seized up. Sent it in thinking, "No big deal, I have the Premium ESP and Premium maintenance plan through Ford." Service manager said they won't cover the issue under warranty or maintenance because it was caused by rust. Called Customer service and they said for issues like that they won't just automatically deny it and can actually send someone in to take a look. Dealer refused to submit a warranty claim and quoted me close to $1000. They eventually came down to the mid-$800 range and forced me to pay for new calipers (covered under premium ESP), new rotors (CS rep said would be covered due to failure of calipers), linings, pads (both covered under maintenance plan), and whatever additional charges they tack on.

Needed my (only) car back because they wouldn't set me up with a loaner since it wasn't warranty covered and had to fork over the money. Service advisor for the dealer won't call me back while I still try to get this resolved.

2 issues - If it was in fact rust that caused both calipers to seize (mysteriously at the exact same time) and not some other underlying issue, I had my vehicle in for service just 3 months prior and this should have been marked as a potential issue during my multi-point inspection where they said my brakes were fine.
2 - if it wasn't rust related, why was it left up to one individual to be the first and last word on whether or not it would be covered under warranty rather than determining another potential cause or at least submitting it for warranty and going from there so I could at least appeal the decision.

Instead Ford said I had to deal with the dealership (apparently they do not back their maintenance and service performed at their dealers) and the dealership told me to take it up with Ford and won't return my calls.

Pretty disappointing experience considering my family has owned 12 Fords over the last 15 years. Especially after the power steering failure that caused a minor accident that Ford ignores.

 

[peterk9]

Figured I would jump in on this. Not sure why I didn't think to check here first, but this has me even more frustrated.

I just had to have my 2013 Explorer (just over 40k miles) recently towed to the dealer because my rear calipers seized up. Sent it in thinking, "No big deal, I have the Premium ESP and Premium maintenance plan through Ford." Service manager said they won't cover the issue under warranty or maintenance because it was caused by rust. Called Customer service and they said for issues like that they won't just automatically deny it and can actually send someone in to take a look. Dealer refused to submit a warranty claim and quoted me close to $1000. They eventually came down to the mid-$800 range and forced me to pay for new calipers (covered under premium ESP), new rotors (CS rep said would be covered due to failure of calipers), linings, pads (both covered under maintenance plan), and whatever additional charges they tack on.

Needed my (only) car back because they wouldn't set me up with a loaner since it wasn't warranty covered and had to fork over the money. Service advisor for the dealer won't call me back while I still try to get this resolved.

2 issues - If it was in fact rust that caused both calipers to seize (mysteriously at the exact same time) and not some other underlying issue, I had my vehicle in for service just 3 months prior and this should have been marked as a potential issue during my multi-point inspection where they said my brakes were fine.
2 - if it wasn't rust related, why was it left up to one individual to be the first and last word on whether or not it would be covered under warranty rather than determining another potential cause or at least submitting it for warranty and going from there so I could at least appeal the decision.

Instead Ford said I had to deal with the dealership (apparently they do not back their maintenance and service performed at their dealers) and the dealership told me to take it up with Ford and won't return my calls.

Pretty disappointing experience considering my family has owned 12 Fords over the last 15 years. Especially after the power steering failure that caused a minor accident that Ford ignores.

Dealerships are independently owned and operated. As for loaners, it states right in the Warranty Guide that Ford does not supply loaner/rental vehicles for warranty repairs. If a dealer does, it is at their expense.
If you wish to pursue this, I suggest that you send a PM to FordService. You can use this link; http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/private.php?do=newpm&u=157968
When you PM, be sure to include your full name, best daytime phone number, VIN, mileage, and servicing dealership in your message.

Peter

 

[stealthscrape]

Dealerships are independently owned and operated. As for loaners, it states right in the Warranty Guide that Ford does not supply loaner/rental vehicles for warranty repairs. If a dealer does, it is at their expense.
If you wish to pursue this, I suggest that you send a PM to FordService. You can use this link; http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/private.php?do=newpm&u=157968
When you PM, be sure to include your full name, best daytime phone number, VIN, mileage, and servicing dealership in your message.

Peter

Thanks for the info. I will see if messaging them helps, as I haven't had luck with customer service so far. Seems that people are getting this covered by warranty but I had no such luck. The rental/loaner was not my main issue, just my reason for needing the car back and not being able to delay with the repair. Hadn't had to deal with such customer service at a dealer with Ford yet, so it was more of an annoyance than anything.

 

[ocracokeBound]

Save your paperwork so that when they do a recall you can request a reimbursement. To me if normal corrosion causes brakes to seize, this is a safety issue, and will be eventually addressed as such.

 

[Lethal-Wombat]

Bit late ... BUT ... good news for me !!

Problem - caliper was "frozen" onto rotor ( ??? )
Solution - replaced right rear caliper and pad; machined rotor
cost - FREE UNDER WARRANTY !!!!


(Just NOW realised i didnt ask if the left would do the same, but report says brakes are ALL GOOD ....)

NEW UPDATE !!
Rear brakes have started DRAGGING AGAIN !! Im assuming it will be the LEFT CALIPER this time, even though i was told ALL other brakes were fine ....

Anyone else had their brakes fixed, only to have them "go" again ?

 

[kk239]

NEW UPDATE !!
Rear brakes have started DRAGGING AGAIN !! Im assuming it will be the LEFT CALIPER this time, even though i was told ALL other brakes were fine ....

Anyone else had their brakes fixed, only to have them "go" again ?

Rear pads replaced and rotors cut at 21K. Needed to replace rear pads and rotors at 32K due to seized calipers. Ford would not cover and Ford Rep Angela Keevis would not acknowledge people are having rear caliper issues.

Disappointing. I do extremely like the vehicle, just annoyed that something as important as persistent brake issues are not being acknowledged.

 

[stealthscrape]

Rear pads replaced and rotors cut at 21K. Needed to replace rear pads and rotors at 32K due to seized calipers. Ford would not cover and Ford Rep Angela Keevis would not acknowledge people are having rear caliper issues.

Disappointing. I do extremely like the vehicle, just annoyed that something as important as persistent brake issues are not being acknowledged.

Very disappointing. I can't get the dealership to respond to me, and I sent a private message to FordService on here a week ago with no response.

 

[peterk9]

Very disappointing. I can't get the dealership to respond to me, and I sent a private message to FordService on here a week ago with no response.

From the Out of Office Thread;

We will be away from the forum temporarily. If you guys need help, please don’t hesitate to reach out to us via Twitter or Facebook. If you need immediate assistance, please contact your dealer or the Customer Relationship Center. For the CRC, dial 1-800-392-3673 OR 1-800-232-5952 (TDD for the Hearing Impaired).

Peter

 

[albguy40]

Mine have been wearing considerably quicker than the fronts. Took all the wheels off last month when I did my rears and I had 1mm out back and a whole 5mm in the front. This is at only 82000km (just 50K miles)!!!
Right rear caliper just seized last week and was covered by my ESP. Luckily I caught it early so the rotor and pads are ok according to my Ford dealer...

Just wishing I had gotten the $0 deductible with all the issues I keep having with this truck...

 

[2013_Kodiak]

I just picked up a 13 limited and had read about the dragging rear brake issues that the Explorer seems to have. Mine doesn't seem to be generating any of the symptoms but just to be sure I was wondering if there are any specific recommendations for anti seize products for the rear brackets? I plan to pull mine apart this week to give it a real good once over and make sure that things are functioning as they should be. I'd rather do it myself than take it in later.

 

[2000GM]

My wife's 2013 with 43K miles just recently began squealing. It seems worst from about 10mph up through 30. But if you step on the brakes, it goes away. If you apply the parking brake while in motion, it goes away. So this led me to narrow it down to the rear brakes being the issue.

With the windows down it was pretty clear the noise was the right rear. Daylight was fading fast so I only checked that side. By hand, I couldn't turn the rotor, and couldn't budge the caliper side to side at at all. Some light hits with a hammer and wood block seemed to work it loose a bit, and then I could turn the rotor by hand easily. I was assuming maybe the caliper slide pins were gunked up, or maybe a frozen caliper. Now I finally look at this thread and this would make sense too, that the pads are jamming up and not separating from the rotor like they should. Our dealer has been unpleasant to work with regarding other issues with this car. Not sure if I should bother taking it to them, or try cleaning up & lubing everything myself and see what happens.

I'm glad my wife likes this car (I refuse to call it a truck or SUV) but I forsee a lot of issues for me to fix. Build quality wise, it's already one of the most disappointing vehicles we've owned.

 

[peterk9]

You may refuse to call it a truck or SUV, but it definitely ain't no car!

Peter

 

[kk239]

I've posted previously here on my issues with prematurely wearing rear pads and rotors and Ford's lack of support on the situation. In an effort to prevent the problem from coming up again, I decided I would every so often pull everything apart and clean up the calipers and pads to keep the problem from happening again.

Did this today for the first time (figuring it was a manly thing to do on Super Bowl Sunday) today, and everything went well. Got everything cleaned up and re-greased. I did notice however that when the brakes were replaced either as part of if being Certified or when I had the problem crop up this past September, the rubber boot for one of the caliper pistons got twisted and torn when they turned the piston back down. It has to be replaced.

Is this something that can be replaced without having to disconnect the caliper or do I have to pull it all off to do it? Sorry, didn't think to take pics before I put everything back together.

Thanks for advice on this.

 

[2013_Kodiak]

I spent part of the day today doing the rears on ours as well. I don't know about the Explorer but all the previous vehicles I have had to replace a caliper boot I had to completely disassemble the piston to replace it. Hopefully this is not the case for yours.

No idea what the cost is on a replacement caliper vs rebuild kit but considering you need to bleed it again (If its a rebuild situation) I would lean toward a replacement if the cost isn't too disparaging.

Mine were definitely dragging and were quite noticeably more worn on the inside. I am glad I spent the time doing this as I expect too much longer would have meant a replacement caliper and rotor. I disassembled the pad assembly and ground out the rust underneath the clips on each side. I applied a liberal coating of brake lubricant with moly in it under the clips before reassembly as well as on top where the pads contact the clip. Hopefully this will keep the assembly from rusting again. I think that the rust under the clips is what is causing the brakes to stick. Also applied lubricant to the pins as well which made a noticeable difference. They would stay compressed before and after adding lube to them they now pop back out when depressed by hand which is how these pins should operate. This too could be part of the reason for the dragging pad.

The pistons on these is a real joy to compress. I was able to do it without a tool using a pair of vise grips inserted into the slots and pushing while turning. Mine were very stiff. Patience is key with this maneuver for sure. I'll likely go ahead and purchase this tool for next time since mine were so hard to compress. I've not had this experience in the past with other cars but I can see how the tool would be a help for the Explorer.

All in all it went well and I expect that once every year or so I'll have a peek at them when the tires are rotated to make sure things are operating as designed. If this is the worst mechanical issue the Ford Explorer has to throw at me I'll be happy with it.

 

[kk239]

I spent part of the day today doing the rears on ours as well. I don't know about the Explorer but all the previous vehicles I have had to replace a caliper boot I had to completely disassemble the piston to replace it. Hopefully this is not the case for yours.

No idea what the cost is on a replacement caliper vs rebuild kit but considering you need to bleed it again (If its a rebuild situation) I would lean toward a replacement if the cost isn't too disparaging.

Mine were definitely dragging and were quite noticeably more worn on the inside. I am glad I spent the time doing this as I expect too much longer would have meant a replacement caliper and rotor. I disassembled the pad assembly and ground out the rust underneath the clips on each side. I applied a liberal coating of brake lubricant with moly in it under the clips before reassembly as well as on top where the pads contact the clip. Hopefully this will keep the assembly from rusting again. I think that the rust under the clips is what is causing the brakes to stick. Also applied lubricant to the pins as well which made a noticeable difference. They would stay compressed before and after adding lube to them they now pop back out when depressed by hand which is how these pins should operate. This too could be part of the reason for the dragging pad.

The pistons on these is a real joy to compress. I was able to do it without a tool using a pair of vise grips inserted into the slots and pushing while turning. Mine were very stiff. Patience is key with this maneuver for sure. I'll likely go ahead and purchase this tool for next time since mine were so hard to compress. I've not had this experience in the past with other cars but I can see how the tool would be a help for the Explorer.

All in all it went well and I expect that once every year or so I'll have a peek at them when the tires are rotated to make sure things are operating as designed. If this is the worst mechanical issue the Ford Explorer has to throw at me I'll be happy with it.

2013_Kodiak Thanks for the response. I'll have to look further into this. If I had noticed it before cleaning up everything, I probably could have tried to chase this down with the dealer that did the brake work last. I just figured once they see I was in there doing some work, they could just state they didn't do it, and honestly I've grown frustrated with dealer and Ford Customer Service BS.

I did purchase a Lisle Brake Caliper Cube to turn the piston down which worked out pretty well. Still needed to use a little elbow grease, however, but for a weekend warrior type like myself it was fine.

 

[2013_Kodiak]

2013_Kodiak Thanks for the response. I'll have to look further into this. If I had noticed it before cleaning up everything, I probably could have tried to chase this down with the dealer that did the brake work last. I just figured once they see I was in there doing some work, they could just state they didn't do it, and honestly I've grown frustrated with dealer and Ford Customer Service BS.

I did purchase a Lisle Brake Caliper Cube to turn the piston down which worked out pretty well. Still needed to use a little elbow grease, however, but for a weekend warrior type like myself it was fine.

Sounds like a good investment, I will look it up. I understand your frustration, I have dealt with Ford service shops in the past and unless it is something really major I prefer to do the work myself. Not bashing the dealership, I just prefer working on my own rigs where I can. Like you said originally, its a good, manly thing to do