I think my 4.0 SOHC is hooped ... | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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I think my 4.0 SOHC is hooped ...

'11 Ranger motor bought

Lol, no Stroker in my future I don't think...

Maybe I need to rethink my "voice of reason" comment :)

Timing worked out and I accompanied a friend with his Highlander and utility trailer to Edmonton - 3 hours north of me - and we picked up a 4.0 SOHC from a 2011 Ranger with just under 40K kms - about 25,000 miles. The motor cost me $945 CDN - about $ 700 US - including tax and was almost the lowest mileage engine I could find. I did find a Ranger motor with 7K kms :eek: but at $ 1600 CDN I decided the extra cost wasn't really justified.

Everything was going great until a trailer tire blewout about 30 minutes away from home. Though chilly on the hands we dealt with it and got the motor onto a hoist and into the garage.

So now I am researching and getting ready to order parts for my swap. Some great threads on the forum but still lots of questions lol. Of course I would like to be as prepared as possible when the actual work starts. Shipping costs can be a killer here in Canada so I have a Montana address to keep costs down. Once I have ordered stuff I need I will make the 3 hour drive down and pick up the goods. With enough stuff stacked up it saves a lot of $$ and it's always fun visiting the USA. :)nd eventual success.

Though I think I know the answer, I would like to use the injectors off the Ranger as it has much lower mileage. It looks like I will need EV1 to EV6 adaptors to do this.

Anyone care to chime in about this ?

Thanks
 



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Rock auto for gaskets, I wouldn't go with engine tech, they arent the best quality. As for oem ford parts, I found White Bear/Tousley Ford was the cheapest by far, even with the exchange rate, and second was tasca auto parts. White Bear ships USPS and you ususaly can get away with minimal duty. You shouldn't need any oem parts for the swap though, just a gasket set.
 






did the new motor come with a motor harness? if it did you can always cut the connectors your 02 harness, and solder the connectors from the new motor on to it
 






The new motor will be a block, heads, oil pan, and innards. He will have to swap electrical, valve covers, intake throttle body, exhaust manifolds and any sensors from his old engine.
 






The new motor will be a block, heads, oil pan, and innards. He will have to swap electrical, valve covers, intake throttle body, exhaust manifolds and any sensors from his old engine.

unless you were the seller, i havent seen a motor come from a recycler that wasnt a complete drop in. as for swapping the sensors, yes that will need to be done, as well as it may be possible has to change the exhaust manifolds. the intake should be the same, the throttle body should be the same and the throttle body should be the same, but the motor harness will be different.
 






unless you were the seller, i havent seen a motor come from a recycler that wasnt a complete drop in. as for swapping the sensors, yes that will need to be done, as well as it may be possible has to change the exhaust manifolds. the intake should be the same, the throttle body should be the same and the throttle body should be the same, but the motor harness will be different.

Not if he's putting a Ranger engine in an Explorer. It is very far from being a drop-in.
 






i could be wrong. i have done one explorer to ranger motor, different years of trucks. some stuff didnt need to be swapped and some stuff did. cant say what would and what wouldnt need to be changed. i own a 07 ranger, and just sold a 03 sport last moth and eye balling the motors the top end looked the same
 












i could be wrong. i have done one explorer to ranger motor, different years of trucks. some stuff didnt need to be swapped and some stuff did. cant say what would and what wouldnt need to be changed. i own a 07 ranger, and just sold a 03 sport last moth and eye balling the motors the top end looked the same

Just did an 11 Ranger --> 98 Ex swap a few months ago.

Virtually everything gets swapped except for the long block, oil pan, harmonic balancer, camshaft position sensor. Valve covers, exhaust manifolds, injectors, harness, fuel rails, EGR tube, belt, tensioner, ignition wires, thermostat housing, engine mounts, intake manifolds, dipstick tube, oil pressure sender, ignition pack, oil filter adapter, knock sensor, etc get swapped or replaced with fresh Ex parts. The water pump probably could've worked (looked similar), but mine was cracked from a front-end collision.
 






Just did an 11 Ranger --> 98 Ex swap a few months ago.

Virtually everything gets swapped except for the long block, oil pan, harmonic balancer, camshaft position sensor. Valve covers, exhaust manifolds, injectors, harness, fuel rails, EGR tube, belt, tensioner, ignition wires, thermostat housing, engine mounts, intake manifolds, dipstick tube, oil pressure sender, ignition pack, oil filter adapter, knock sensor, etc get swapped or replaced with fresh Ex parts. The water pump probably could've worked (looked similar), but mine was cracked from a front-end collision.

this i will believe. there were a lot of changes in 97, 98, 99. there is a lot of differences in the electrical from 98 to even 99. same with emissions. mid way 01 the intakes were different as well as the divers valve cover (pcv screwed into the back) and pretty much everything electrical.
now my head is spinning. i have owned around 25 different rangers and explorers from 93-03 that needed either a motor or trans swap
 






Motor Out

I am still here and slowly - very slowly :) - working on my engine swap. With a good friend and great weather here today we achieved something ....

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DSC_0658_zpslyu1iooo.jpg


On the hoist is the new motor and behind is the blown SOHC.

The actual lift was not too bad except the roof of the garage was a bit of a factor. We had to shorten the boom of the hoist and screw around a little though - nothing serious.

One thing that helped dramatically, and was an unknown, was whether or not we would have to drop the manual trans in order to pull the motor. vroomzoomboom thought with the rad out we would have enough space to pull the motor but we really didn't know for sure. :notworthy :notworthy

We took the radiator out and then crossed our fingers... We put a piece of cardboard in front of the other radiator looking piece - AC system evap/condensor - just to be safe. A little rocking & shaking & gentle cursing and out the motor came - a very good thing :):):hammer: :thumbsup:.

The flywheel bolts were not a huge issue as we pulled the wheels and fender liners and were able to get them all... We only had to remove 7 as that's how many there were. I think that PJ had a trans swap while under warranty and they only put 7 back in lol ... Not sure If I go with 8 or 7 when we put her back in.

The exhaust manifold bolts were tuff but we expected that. The motor mount bolts wre also a little difficult but with a cheater bar they were quickly dealt with. And of course removing the starter was a definite challenge :eek: :fire:

Next step is start swapping components that need to be swapped - inakes, alternator, sensors etc. Will try to use as many of the Ranger motor components as possible because the Ranger gear is that much newer. Will see how it goes.

All in all good news !!!
 






Looks like you are making good progress. Being that you have a manual trans, I would have dropped that out first for sure. An auto isn't so hard, but getting the engine back in with the manual input shaft properly aligned is a big PITA. Hopefully you will get lucky getting yours back in. BTW, this is a really good time for a new slave cylinder!
 






I just don't know...

Thanks RB... alignment may be a huge issue & the tranny might indeed come out yet lol, maybe not completely out, I just don't know.

You think alignment is much easier from the tranny side after the engine has been bolted in ?

New slave cylinder bought and ready to go. :salute:
 






Obviously, you should try it the way you have it now. Maybe it will all just line up and go together. Who knows? But yes, I think it is easier to move the trans around than the engine. Fingers crossed for you!
 






At long last .... 2011 Ranger motor is in. We were able to drop it in without to much difficulty. We carefully positioned the motor with the 5 speed still installed and used the trans to engine mounting bolts to suck in the motor to the transmission,

Not started yet - we managed to break a starter wire last night - used the donor harness and spliced in the bit we needed. Hopefully we will get the starter in this evening an maybe try and start it tomorrow.

I pretty much followed threads here and used them as guidelines as to what to swap/replace etc. Won't know how successful we have been for a few days yet !

I had a closer look at my '02 motor and it was not pretty .... small and large bits of the timing apparatus visible under the driver side valve cover...
 






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