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Preventative treatment for Black vehicles

Great points. I use Ultima Paint Guard Plus and while I am a clean/detail freak on my cars (it's an enjoyable hobby for me too) I also don't like to spend too much time. I will clay and lightly cut with an orbital buffer every 12-16 months, but only hand washes so swirls tend to stay away.

One thing I have found - sealants like UPGP are awesome because they work on just about everything. Plastic, glass, aluminum, and off course the body. And, WOWA. Wipe on, walk away for a quick job. You can also top with a wax if you want, but I prefer Optimum Instant Detailer to bring out a little more depth and gloss. Again, a quick WOWA, but a QD like OID only lasts a couple of days. The UPGP will go 6 months or so, but I do every month because it is so quick and easy and to make sure my cars are always properly sealed from the elements. UVA/UVB is the worst long term and UPGP has been great. Bird droppings also come off with ease.
 



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Great points. I use Ultima Paint Guard Plus and while I am a clean/detail freak on my cars (it's an enjoyable hobby for me too) I also don't like to spend too much time. I will clay and lightly cut with an orbital buffer every 12-16 months, but only hand washes so swirls tend to stay away.

One thing I have found - sealants like UPGP are awesome because they work on just about everything. Plastic, glass, aluminum, and off course the body. And, WOWA. Wipe on, walk away for a quick job. You can also top with a wax if you want, but I prefer Optimum Instant Detailer to being out a little more depth and glass. Again, a quick WOWA.

I have not tried the UPGP, but I certainly agree that using a sealant that is easy to apply and provides protection to all exterior finishes is a great way to keep a vehicle looking nice, along with proper hand washing techniques.

A similar sealant is Adam's H20 Guard & Gloss. It applies a little differently, in that it is a water-activated acrylic sealant. It has amazing gloss and provides about 2-3 months of protection to everything except the tires.

And it smells like Grape Soda! :D
 






coating will not provide the same level of gloss or depth as a sealant or wax.

Can you expand on this a little more? I can't find any images or videos that compare the reflectivity of a coating vs sealant in a google search. All I find is untreated -vs- treated examples. Very interesting point.

Thanks for the link to your thread. I bookmarked it. Sweet ride :thumbsup:
 






Can you expand on this a little more? I can't find any images or videos that compare the reflectivity of a coating vs sealant in a google search. All I find is untreated -vs- treated examples. Very interesting point.

Thanks for the link to your thread. I bookmarked it. Sweet ride :thumbsup:

Thank you!

In general terms, a coating will not make much, if any, noticeable difference in the appearance of the paint. It will basically look like the existing clear coat that comes from the factory. Now, there are some variables, and some newer coatings make claims of some gloss enhancement. In addition, some detail shops will recommend a full machine polish, even on new paint, to give the clear coat additional gloss before the coating is applied, which results in more gloss after application than there was on the original, unpolished clear coat. This is likely what you are seeing in the photos you found, comparing "untreated vs. treated", that the treated side was actually machine polished prior to the coating, which shows additional gloss. Another variable is paint color, whites and silvers won't show the difference between a coating vs. a sealant as much as darker colors, especially black.

In my opinion, if you are going to drop the coin on a coating, spend a couple hundred more for a complete paint correction (ie: machine polish), so the clear coat is in top condition visually before the coating is applied. Makes no sense to spend big bucks to put a coating over paint that is already swirled or scratched. And yes, even new vehicles often come with clear coats that are already swirled up, from getting washed with poor technique and cheapo products on the dealer lot.

Also, be aware that even though coatings are quite durable, and have a long lifespan, they are not indestructible, nor magic. If one were to regularly take a vehicle with a coating to an automatic, swirling-brush car wash, it will get scratch and swirled, just not as easily or quickly as a vehicle without a coating. Same is true for hand washing at home, if you use poor technique, or dry with cotton or low quality towels, the coating will still get swirled.

Lastly, don't ever get tricked into a car dealer's sales-pitch for their "magic coating or sealant". It is total BS. Just $10 worth of sealant applied by someone getting paid $12/hr. And the "warranty" only applies if you come back every X months for a refresh and/or use their "special" washing products.

Like the recommendations in the other posts, if you go with a coating, stick with the major brands that have established products, and are applied by trained detailers.
 






IMO, if you are going for a "permanent" coating, no need to apply for the first couple of years of owning - or put on if you buy a used car after it has been clayed and buffed back to the brand new look.

As the above poster said, it is really just like another coat of clear. HOWEVER, many of the "permanent" ones don't take other products like wax well. They don't adhere.

Regular waxes, sealants and instant detailers can enhance the look of the paint job - even if brand new. They generally don't adhere to the "permanent" coatings.

Thus, only get a "permanent" coating if you like the the paint job without any enhancement. Also, I would only expect 2-3 years form the "permanent" coatings. Therefore, if you are a long term owner I'd go a couple years with a new car without it, get a pro to buff the car to look new, and then have it applied.

Still, I personally stay away from these really long term products. I use a sealant that will last months that I can top to give my car that extra "pop" when I want it. However, if you are fine with the regular paint job, I'd look to put the "permanent" coating on after a few years. That way, in the first couple of years you can add a wax for some depth and gloss if you want.
 






+1 I don't like the permanent coats because if you ever have an issue - like say you get rear ended.

the paint shop will need to remove that coating to prep and paint correctly - and match correctly. so meh

for the short time I spend "waxing" the car every year it's worth the clarity and time. OH and it's great way to knock down a 6 pack.

seriously though it doesn't take much other than the first time doing the job - like any real prep work. washing it also so much easier after.

Also thanks to the guy that mentioned it - DO NOT use that dish soap but the one time you will clay bar. It's probably the one thing I do that most show car people cringe at - and again for good reason. I only use that once. the day of the very first clay bar

after that I Use the soap made my whomever makes the polish I keep. In my case - currently that's Optimum products. Used to use Tropi-care when they were in business, and I've used adams and zaino. I actually hate zaino.

but yes you must also coat that car with something that day. once washed and clay bared - that paint is more bare than it was in the factory. Do sections if oyu want to spread it out.


Oh and to the guy using the Optimum instant detailer - I moved over to only using the spray wax. mostly because it's something like 3 dollar more - and shines that much better. I also only use it every second or third washing.
 






Is this Ultima Paint Guard Plus for real? It sounds too good to be true. I hate all the plastic on the Explorer. I used Meguiar's Ultimate liquid wax since it wasn't supposed to stain the plastic if I hit it, but now I need to go over all the plastic with something and make sure I don't get it on the paint. What a pain in the butt. Are you guys saying that all I have to do is wipe on and wipe off this Ultima Paint Guard Plus on the painted and plastic surfaces? That would be seriously awesome if it protects both and is that easy to put on. Does it make the black plastic look like it does with Armor All or Meguiar's Ultimate Black?(which I bought but only used on my truck and it was a PITA to put on) Do I need to somehow strip off the Meguiar's wax before using this product?

Thanks!
 






Is this Ultima Paint Guard Plus for real? It sounds too good to be true. I hate all the plastic on the Explorer. I used Meguiar's Ultimate liquid wax since it wasn't supposed to stain the plastic if I hit it, but now I need to go over all the plastic with something and make sure I don't get it on the paint. What a pain in the butt. Are you guys saying that all I have to do is wipe on and wipe off this Ultima Paint Guard Plus on the painted and plastic surfaces? That would be seriously awesome if it protects both and is that easy to put on. Does it make the black plastic look like it does with Armor All or Meguiar's Ultimate Black?(which I bought but only used on my truck and it was a PITA to put on) Do I need to somehow strip off the Meguiar's wax before using this product?

Thanks!

I wipe down the whole Ex with UPGP. The paint, the glass, all the plastic trim (with a different microfiber applicator), the plastic chrome, the tail and headlights (sun can haze them up) and even the rubber trim around the windows. Only thing I am not sure it will work on is rubber, but I do it anyway. The plastic trim gets a nice sheen that is not too glossy from application. It does not make the plastic trim darker. It just protects it so it does not fade from sun exposure.

You will really see the car really bead when it rains after you apply. Once the beading wears down, time for another coat. You can also do two coats for extra protection. Space about two hours apart to cure with the new version.

Also only need to use very little of this product. Over-applying won't hurt, but it won't benefit - and its not cheap so no need to waste.

They say it lasts "months". My take with two coats is about three months, but I apply it every month because it is so easy to apply.

It's my go to. There are similar products out there others may prefer. Nice thing is you can top it with an instant detailer or wax if you want more gloss/depth. I have not used a wax in years due to this easy to apply product. Sometimes I top with an instant detailer for more pop if I'm going somewhere that I want a car of mine looking really good.

Key for me is two coats of UPGP will give the best gloss as opposed to one. I do two initially and then every month one coat to stay ahead of the curve. I like the product a lot. It actually appears like it is not doing much as you apply. Where it pops is after two coats and the next wash. Sealants hardly show their benefits until after the first wash. Car may even look a little faded. You'll see the difference a week later when you wash it after two coats

And yes, strip off any previous wax by washing with Dawn first. If you really want to make sure the wax is removed, then spray the car down with rubbing alcohol and wipe off with a micro fiber - then wash again to remove that. Dawn will remove wax. Then only use a liquid soap product formulated just for hand car washes. They won't harm waxes or sealants.

Best price is at Autogeek for UPGP, but also try Amazon and compare shipping. Get the 12 oz. Much better value. I also remove the spray top after use, tightly put the bottle top back on, and then put into a large zip lock bag. Keeping it air tight will make it last a long time.
 






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