Anyone make/buy a keyless fob radio transmitter shield? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Anyone make/buy a keyless fob radio transmitter shield?

dco43054

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20 XLT
I looked for a similar thread and couldn't find one. If anyone knows of one, please point me in that direction.

I have always left a spare key in each Explorer. If I needed to give someone access to the vehicle, I'd just give them the door code and they could use the key inside and be able to drive it away.

The '16 XLT I'm getting has the keyless fob. Not my favorite, but I don't have a choice. I want to leave the second fob in the vehicle, the same way I've left the second key.

I've read the threads on how to lock the vehicle with the fob inside. I really would not like to have it be active in case someone got into the car when it was unlocked, and then be able to just start it and drive it away.

Looks like for RFID devices the way to effectively shield them from being read/transmitting is with copper mesh layered inside a bag or other container.

Has anyone built or bought a device that blocks the radio transmission to the keyless fobs?

I could always pull the batteries out of the one in the car, but that would be minor PITA when I did want to use it.
 



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FWIW - I did find several "faraday cage" shields after some searching last night. They are supposed to drastically reduce the signal strength. The cheapest one I found was $30 for one of them.

I also found stories about people using amplifying devices to break into cars by "connecting" the car and fob, then just opening the door. I'm not as worried about that, but it is a reality.

Have to do some more research.

I really like the old fob/key combo. Much less complex. Sometimes being a Luddite is not a bad thing.
 






Wrap your key in aluminum foil multiple times, very tightly. Ensure there are no gaps. Consider purchasing some 3M conductive copper tape to ensure that the foil has no conductive gaps. Then store the packaged key under the spare tire in the back.

Of course, this method assumes that you rarely use the spare key.

If you try this, let us know how it works out. At least the new 902MHz fobs will be easier to block than 315/433, assuming power and sensitivity are the same.

EDIT: Or you could just remove the battery from the spare. A key fob with a dead battery can still be used to start/drive as long as it is inserted in the special slot in the armrest.
 






Best solution, is to remove the battery from the keyfob.
There's a coil inside the keyfob for short range proximity (basically have to put the key right up to the steering wheel column to start the vehicle).

Of course it's not fool proof, but hiding it well should be enough and it should eliminate the long range signal strength.
 






so 2 things - remember if you put the wrapped key in the center console - you might end up close enough to the hot trigger that lets the key work with dead batteries.

so step one - glove box or better the rear cubby behind the rear seat.

step 2 - putting the key in AL foil - then foil wrapped putting it in to a thick bag - then wrap the bag again in AL foil. Why - well you don't want to screw with tape, you probably have the foil - and the bag is to help with potential moisture ingress.

I'm assuming here the key would live in this home for some time more than a month - the key is expensive and electronic with lithium batteries in it. moisture starting corrorision in the device - bad day.


now - I would try this. and see if the car will still let the doors lock normally with your other key. IE - the car doesn't see the key in the cubby.

or you could try starting your car with the triple wrapped key in the cubby.



If that works - good luck.

if not - you will have to pull the batteries. all there is to it. Again though keep it out of the center console. Now without batteries - you might find the car works just dandy. at this point - move the key to the cubby - but batteries and fob in bag with one of those small dessicant pouches you find in some electronics - if you have one handy.

problem solved.

OH and tell the person if they go to retrieve the key - the batteries might be dead - if they are - batteries in, fob in holster in center console - car will start. batteries will have to be installed though- to complete the circuit path.
 






Best solution, is to remove the battery from the keyfob.
There's a coil inside the keyfob for short range proximity (basically have to put the key right up to the steering wheel column to start the vehicle).

Of course it's not fool proof, but hiding it well should be enough and it should eliminate the long range signal strength.

ford doesn't put the high power emitter in the steering column or in the push switch on the 2016.

it lives in the bottom of the center console against the forward wall.

this area has the coil that sends the strong signal to the key. Supposedly - it will only activate if the initial RFID fails while the push button start is pressed.

IE you might press it - car won't start but beeps missing key - place key in holder - press again, slight delay - car starts.

I personally haven't tested it though.
 






I looked for a similar thread and couldn't find one. If anyone knows of one, please point me in that direction.

I have always left a spare key in each Explorer. If I needed to give someone access to the vehicle, I'd just give them the door code and they could use the key inside and be able to drive it away.

The '16 XLT I'm getting has the keyless fob. Not my favorite, but I don't have a choice. I want to leave the second fob in the vehicle, the same way I've left the second key.

I've read the threads on how to lock the vehicle with the fob inside. I really would not like to have it be active in case someone got into the car when it was unlocked, and then be able to just start it and drive it away.

Looks like for RFID devices the way to effectively shield them from being read/transmitting is with copper mesh layered inside a bag or other container.

Has anyone built or bought a device that blocks the radio transmission to the keyless fobs?

I could always pull the batteries out of the one in the car, but that would be minor PITA when I did want to use it.
Not sure if the 2016 is the same but when you use to Securicode keypad to lock the fob in the vehicle, the fob is supposed to deactivate itself after the vehicle 'alarm arms itself (about 20 seconds). To reactivate the fob you press the Unlock button on it.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=329858&highlight=locking+key+inside see my post 29 as to how I tested it.

Peter
 






Not sure if the 2016 is the same but when you use to Securicode keypad to lock the fob in the vehicle, the fob is supposed to deactivate itself after the vehicle 'alarm arms itself (about 20 seconds). To reactivate the fob you press the Unlock button on it.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=329858&highlight=locking+key+inside see my post 29 as to how I tested it.

Peter

huh - I don't recall reading anything like that in the 2016 manual. It might work the same.

but for long term storage I would take additional precautions.
 






huh - I don't recall reading anything like that in the 2016 manual. It might work that way, but I didn't see it - only that you can lock the door with the keypad, or another fob.

but for long term storage I would take additional precautions.
I didn't see anything in the manual about a key fob being shutdown in the manual either.

Agree with all who said "take the batteries out", if you want to be sure.

I'm not paranoid, but I also plan to be a little cautious. At this point, I plan on reviewing the commercially available shielding pouches to judge how well they work. The one I saw promised a 97% reduction in transmission/reception, but who knows?

For around $30, I'll choose one and give it a try.
 






I didn't see anything in the manual about a key fob being shutdown in the manual either.

Agree with all who said "take the batteries out", if you want to be sure.

I'm not paranoid, but I also plan to be a little cautious. At this point, I plan on reviewing the commercially available shielding pouches to judge how well they work. The one I saw promised a 97% reduction in transmission/reception, but who knows?

For around $30, I'll choose one and give it a try.

for 5 cents you can try the foil before you purchase one.
 






I didn't see anything in the manual about a key fob being shutdown in the manual either.

Agree with all who said "take the batteries out", if you want to be sure.

I'm not paranoid, but I also plan to be a little cautious. At this point, I plan on reviewing the commercially available shielding pouches to judge how well they work. The one I saw promised a 97% reduction in transmission/reception, but who knows?

For around $30, I'll choose one and give it a try.
Page 156 of the 2011 Manual;

After locking the doors using any of the methods above, the turn signal
lamps will flash once indicating that the perimeter alarm is in the
pre-armed mode and will become fully armed in 20 seconds.
When fully armed (after the 20 second pre-arm mode), any IA keys (if
equipped) found inside the vehicle are disabled/inoperable
and will not
start the engine. Press Unlock button to re-enable them.


Peter
 






not to be a complete //

but now go find similar phrasing and feature for the 2016 explorer.

the 2016 is one of the few cars in the ford lineup right now that has the new 2- way transmitter key. it is a slightly different system.
 






not to be a complete //

but now go find similar phrasing and feature for the 2016 explorer.

the 2016 is one of the few cars in the ford lineup right now that has the new 2- way transmitter key. it is a slightly different system.
It's not there. I was able to check the manual today. That is why I stated, "I'm not sure if the 2016 is the same". The 2016 also no longer appears to have the Adaptive Learning transmission. It also wouldn't be the first time the Manual left something out that should have been in or left something in that should have been taken out.:)

Peter
 






for 5 cents you can try the foil before you purchase one.

Everything I've read about foil says it doesn't work. It

I did order one from Amazon this morning for less than $20. Ill report back after I pick up the vehicle in a couple weeks.
 












if hiding the key at the back of the vehicle in some sort of RF sock etc doesn't work I'm out of ideas. When you need to use it take the key out of the protective cover. Maybe double bag it in one of these if one isn't enough?
http://www.amazon.com/Keyfob-RFID-S...id=1460769437&sr=1-1&keywords=Keyfob+RFID+bag
The same pouches are used by paranoid people to mask their cellphones when they need to "go dark". Some report the need to double bag it. Others reported getting a bag with a low quality closure, and having issues.

I think the bag I ordered will be big enough that I can put the fob in sideways and roll it up a so there are a couple thicknesses of material. Then I just intend to put some Velcro or just a rubber band around it.

I'm kind of geeking on this to see how well the bag works. They sell similar ones, as mentioned, for phones, tablets, laptops, credit cards, passports, etc. It will be interesting to see the results of a single layer, rolling it up, etc.
 






Got the bag today. Don't have a fob to test, but it sure keeps my cellphone shielded. Not a peep once I put it in the bag!

I bought a canvas covered one with a velcro closure. Nice tight seal.

I'll let everyone know how it works with the fob once I pick up the '16.
 






Tried out the bag today. It blocks the keys to the point where they are not read, even when sitting on top of the front console. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

This is the one I purchased
http://www.amazon.com/Faraday-Prote...F8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=nav_timeline_asin

It was $14.99 plus shipping. Right at $20 to my door. This was much cheaper than any others I saw, and I like the foldover flap on top. Exactly what I was searching for.
 






You could also put a piece of thin plastic or paper in-between the battery and the contacts to prevent it from making a connection and hide the key fob in the rear of the vehicle. it'll preserve the battery because the fob isn't active, plus hidden in the rear will keep it far away from the backup location in the center console.

Plus it's free.
 



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You could also put a piece of thin plastic or paper in-between the battery and the contacts to prevent it from making a connection and hide the key fob in the rear of the vehicle. it'll preserve the battery because the fob isn't active, plus hidden in the rear will keep it far away from the backup location in the center console.

Plus it's free.
Since the fob doesn't detect that it's near/in the vehicle, then it won't be active.

Peter
 






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