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Best 4.0L Clutch?

BonesDT

Elite Explorer
Joined
July 12, 2002
Messages
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City, State
Westchester, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
Red '99 Sport SOHC 4x4
So my Centerforce Dual Friction is starting to slip. I need to tow my 5x10 enclosed Haulmark in 2 weeks.

It seems some people think the Centerforce clutches are optamized for high-horsepower cars rather than offroad/towing trucks. They are shunned in the Diesel world.

It seems my only other options are Luk and Zoom Kevlar (which I'm still trying to confirm if they even make an app for the Ex/Ranger).

Also, I noticed 90's Ex/Rangers use a 9+/10" clutch disc, while 00-ish use a 10 1/8" disc. I'm assuming this upgrade happened when the trans switched from M5OD-R1 for the 4.0L OHVs to M5OD-R1HD for the SOHCs. My truck is all custom, with a '99 SOHC with a 00-ish R1HD. I don't see any reason why the larger disc wouldn't fit all Ford 4.0's with either Mazda tranny, just making sure.

What do you guys think?
 



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We discussed this somewhat in my Dana 60 swap thread. But basically, it appears that Luke makes most of the clutches out there, including the units from CenterForce and AD-Delco.

Here's my AD-Delco clutch with "LUK" stamped on it:
clutch_luk.jpg
 






Yea, I've been reading that. I'm very interested to inspect my expensive Centerforce to see if it says Luk.

This place seems to have good prices, if these are Luk brand. This is the 10 1/8" disc listed for 2001+. $285 incl the slave, nice.
http://www.clutchcityonline.com/products/07-167S.shtml

Flywheel is only $90:
http://www.clutchcityonline.com/products/167756.shtml

Yea, I went to rockauto.com and they are selling an "AC-Delco" Kevlar kit for $500+ using the identical picture from Zoom's site, where SummitRacing.com has for $300+.

I hate all this name game crap with parts. I'll call Clutch City tomorrow and if these are Luk, it's got to be worth the price.
 






I just put the Luk repset clutch kit in my truck. Got it for $145 shipped. My clutch pedal has never been this light. I used to have to stomp on it..
 






I have a Centerforce on my truck and it had Luk stamped on the pressure plate. Spec Clutches also makes clutches for Rangers but pricey like the Centerforce.
Clicky
 






I just bought the standard zoom kit, i think they are made by borg warner?
 






just a general question who sells upgraded clutches for these trucks because i keep shattering my clutch disk with y agressive driving
 






So far I've tried the Ford OEM, Centerforce Dual Friction, and Luk RepSet. As far as I'm concerned, these are the only options, but I see EMG says he used a Zoom Standard (I'm assuming this isn't their kevlar).

For the record, no matter whatever the box says on it, it seems all of these clutch sets are made by Luk in the end. I've heard Ford OEM is Luk, but I can't say for myself. I have confirmed that my Centerforce pressure plate was stamped "Luk" (under the orange paint) and the clutch disc was also stamped "Luk". The way I take this is, Luk makes the "cores", while Centerforce makes the actual unique Dual-Friction material, and maybe upgrades the springs.

I forget what the OEM felt like, I learned stick on it. I then got the Centerforce DF and so far that one was the winner. A nice firm pedal feel. The reason I didn't go with it again is because I was concerned the special 50% amount of friction material, although grippier, may wear out quicker, especially for heavy applications like off-roading and towing.

Now I have the Luk RepSet, and I wouldn't get this again. The pedal feel is way too soft. Nice if you're looking for a luxurious feel. However, I feel pedal effort is directly correlated to clamping force, so if it's easier to disengage the pressure plate, then the pressure plate is probably going to let the clutch slip at less force.

So to answer your question, as far as professional companies are concerned, Centerforce makes an upgraded clutch, and I think they are the only company. I recommend it if you are not on a budget.

Someone told me there was a local shop that upgrades clutch kits. I don't know what that means. He said something about upgrading the clutch springs. I don't know if they could also upgrade the friction material.

Here's what I'm doing the next time I need to replace my clutch (if I don't throw in the towel and do a V8 swap before then):
Get the Centerforce DF, but for the later model (e.g. 2002) 4.0L SOHC engines (which I have). These are beefier sets, stronger pressure plates, and clutch discs with more material and dual beehive springs. The catch: the bolt pattern is designed for the $800 non-resurfaceable dual-mass flywheels that plague the stick-shift SOHC engines. I will continue to use the standard OHV flywheel, but simply re-drill and tap the flywheel to accept the bolt-pattern for the SOHC pressure plate.

If anyone has a better idea, please let me know. I have dedicated my life in search of the best clutch!
 






Bones> Have you made any progress on this front as of yet?

And as an aside, would I be able to grab your suggested sohc centerforce clutch kit, and mate it to my single mass flywheel, with just a bit of tapping/drilling?
 






I have a couple of clutch questions:

1.) I think this was somewhat addressed in another thread, but to clarify:
I have a '93 Ranger 4.0-OHV (6 bolt flywheel) If I want to upgrade to the later, bigger diameter SOHC clutch, all I have to do is have the flywheel drilled/tapped for the "new" clutch bolt-to-flywheel locations, as the dowel pins line up, but not the bolt holes. Correct? Any concerns that removing that extra material throws off the "neutral" balance of the flywheel?

2.) Looking up a '99 Explorer SOHC clutch kit on Autozone, there are 2 different part#'s.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1999-Ford-Explorer-4WD/Clutch-Set/_/N-jdb37Z6o243

One is labeled as a "convential/aftermarket style". It has a 10-1/8in OD. The second is labeled as an "oem, self-adjusting style", with a 10-3/16in OD. That means the "oem" style has a slightly larger OD, but it has visibly less friction surface area, on the inner area. The pressure plate looks different too.

Can someone please explain the difference between these 2. What is the oem type "self adjusting" for? Does it mean that it has a variable clamping force/pedal feel, with a softer/lighter feel at low rpm, and higher effort/more clamping at higher rpm? or is it something else entirely? Which style do I want, and why?
 






Well, I got my own answers:
I spoke to the tech support people at AMS clutch. They also have both types listed on Rock Auto.

The non-self adjusting option has (or is "supposed to have) only one advantage: It was originally designed to be cheaper then the oe style. Period. The friction surface is larger, to make up for the reduced clamp force of the pressure plate design.

While the self-adjusting OEM style has a smaller friction surface, it has increased clamping force over the other design. In the end, they both have virtually identical clamping forces at the disc/flywheel interface, when they are both new.

The advantage of the OEM design is that the pressure plate contains a ratcheting self-adjust feature. As the clutch disc wears the pressure plate adjusts itself to maintain a consistent pedal feel, engagement height, and clamp load throughout the life of the clutch.

Also, according to the tech guy, the smaller OHV clutch has 1800lbs of clamp force, whereas the later SOHC clutch has 2100lbs of force, so there is an improvement in load holding ability, when using the SOHC clutch in an OHV. He also confirmed that the OHV flywheel can be drilled/tapped for the SOHC pressure plate. He stated that it takes 40 grams of material removal, all one side, to cause an imbalance. Drilling the new bolt holes is nowhere near 40 grams of material removal, and they holes are spaced around the diameter, not in one spot.

After a 2nd call to AMS, it looks like drilling/tapping will not be needed. Part# 07-167 WOULD require that, as it has different bolt pattern. Part# 07-139 will bolt right up to my '93 OHV flywheel, is an oem self adjusting style, and has the larger SOHC 10.125" disc. I believe I have found the "magic" solution here. There is now no reason for anybody to buy the smaller OHV 9" clutch. You can buy AMS 07-139 from RockAuto ($161.79) and bolt it right in to your older truck. Instant clutch upgrade. While AMS doesn't do disc upgrades, they offered to put me in touch with someone who will replace some of the friction material w/ kevlar. However, I don' think I will need to do this.

Also, we spoke about early slave failure, and he agreed with my hypothesis that most of them were due to over-travel of the slave. He pointed to a blocked "compensation" port in the master as one frequent issue as well. He agreed that a 0.020 (20 thousandths) - BUT NO MORE - (unless the flywheel has been machined) flywheel shim, would help reduce the likelihood of early, over- travel induced, slave failure.

So, I am looking at AMS part# 07-139. Any thoughts, opinions, dire warnings, etc...?
 






Also, according to the tech guy, the smaller OHV clutch has 1800lbs of clamp force, whereas the later SOHC clutch has 2100lbs of force, so there is an improvement in load holding ability, when using the SOHC clutch in an OHV. He also confirmed that the OHV flywheel can be drilled/tapped for the SOHC pressure plate. He stated that it takes 40 grams of material removal, all one side, to cause an imbalance. Drilling the new bolt holes is nowhere near 40 grams of material removal, and they holes are spaced around the diameter, not in one spot.

After a 2nd call to AMS, it looks like drilling/tapping will not be needed. Part# 07-167 WOULD require that, as it has different bolt pattern. Part# 07-139 will bolt right up to my '93 OHV flywheel, is an oem self adjusting style, and has the larger SOHC 10.125" disc. I believe I have found the "magic" solution here. There is now no reason for anybody to buy the smaller OHV 9" clutch. You can buy AMS 07-139 from RockAuto ($161.79) and bolt it right in to your older truck. Instant clutch upgrade. While AMS doesn't do disc upgrades, they offered to put me in touch with someone who will replace some of the friction material w/ kevlar. However, I don' think I will need to do this.

Also, we spoke about early slave failure, and he agreed with my hypothesis that most of them were due to over-travel of the slave. He pointed to a blocked "compensation" port in the master as one frequent issue as well. He agreed that a 0.020 (20 thousandths) - BUT NO MORE - (unless the flywheel has been machined) flywheel shim, would help reduce the likelihood of early, over- travel induced, slave failure.

So, I am looking at AMS part# 07-139. Any thoughts, opinions, dire warnings, etc...?

The 07-167 clutch kit is for a 2001-2006 Explorer and 2001-2005 Sport Trac (and also the 2001-2010 Ranger and similar Mazda B4000). I can see why it wouldn't be a bolt-on.

The 07-139 clutch kit is the same clutch kit offered for a '98-2000 Explorer with the 4.0L OHV and the SOHC.

The smaller-diameter 07-096 kit fits both the '93-97 and '98-00 Explorers, and they all use the same slave cylinder, so it's not too surprising that the larger diameter SOHC clutch fits the smaller diameter OHV applications.

Also worth noting, these are the same as the LuK clutch part numbers, so LuK makes these parts for AMS (and lots of others).

I'd mostly be concerned about weight - if it is a whole lot heavier, that much extra weight spinning on a lower-torque, lower-horsepower, low-revving OHV engine is likely going to drop the revs quicker than it would on the higher-torque, higher-horsepower, higher-revving SOHC.

It might sound like a minor thing, but clutch weight makes a big difference - it could impact driveability to the point where it's the reason Ford or the aftermarket didn't just decide to use the SOHC clutch in the OHV rather than make two seperate parts. Even just a pound of extra weight, when spinning at thousands of RPM, plays a big role in how fast that disc assembly (and the crankshaft it's attached to) speeds up or slows down.

I'm not saying for sure that's the case - it's definitely possible that Ford just stuck with the smaller diameter clutch design for the OHV because that's what it had for the OHV prior to the SOHC and it just never dawned on anyone that the SOHC clutch could supercede the older design as a one-clutch-to-rule-them-all solution.

Heck, it could even be an overall improvement - the clutch for the 91-92's was designed way back in the late 80's prior to Explorer production in 1990. The clutch used for the '93-97's was slightly improved but still based on that. Technology leapt forward in the years after that, so a decade of progress and computer design might have produced a better-performing, smoother-operating, perhaps even lighter weight clutch. Not that clutch design changed all that much, even now, clutches are clutches, but it's just hard to say without at least some overall specs in terms of weight and (even better) comparing the two side by side.

As for the travel issue, yeah, that's probably part of it, but the problem is the proportion of how far the clutch pedal has to be pushed to get the required travel out of the slave cylinder - you can push the pedal a whole lot and only move the slave a small amount. I don't think a 0.020 flywheel spacer is going to do much about that, and it seems like spacers are only offered in 0.025/0.040/0.050 sizes for this application.
 






After a 2nd call to AMS, it looks like drilling/tapping will not be needed. Part# 07-167 WOULD require that, as it has different bolt pattern. Part# 07-139 will bolt right up to my '93 OHV flywheel, is an oem self adjusting style, and has the larger SOHC 10.125" disc. I believe I have found the "magic" solution here. There is now no reason for anybody to buy the smaller OHV 9" clutch. You can buy AMS 07-139 from RockAuto ($161.79) and bolt it right in to your older truck. Instant clutch upgrade. While AMS doesn't do disc upgrades, they offered to put me in touch with someone who will replace some of the friction material w/ kevlar. However, I don' think I will need to do this.

I realize this is an old thread but I wanted to comment on this. I got a 07-139 clutch kit from Rock auto and installed it in my 94 ranger with the 4.0 ohv and it fit perfectly. Only 100km on it so far but it's working great.
 






I realize this is an old thread but I wanted to comment on this. I got a 07-139 clutch kit from Rock auto and installed it in my 94 ranger with the 4.0 ohv and it fit perfectly. Only 100km on it so far but it's working great.

Thanks for this feed back.

I'm looking to replace my clutch and upgrade my R1 to an HD and am l'm also replacing the clutch pack.
 






Well, I got my own answers:
I spoke to the tech support people at AMS clutch. They also have both types listed on Rock Auto.

The non-self adjusting option has (or is "supposed to have) only one advantage: It was originally designed to be cheaper then the oe style. Period. The friction surface is larger, to make up for the reduced clamp force of the pressure plate design.

While the self-adjusting OEM style has a smaller friction surface, it has increased clamping force over the other design. In the end, they both have virtually identical clamping forces at the disc/flywheel interface, when they are both new.

The advantage of the OEM design is that the pressure plate contains a ratcheting self-adjust feature. As the clutch disc wears the pressure plate adjusts itself to maintain a consistent pedal feel, engagement height, and clamp load throughout the life of the clutch.

Also, according to the tech guy, the smaller OHV clutch has 1800lbs of clamp force, whereas the later SOHC clutch has 2100lbs of force, so there is an improvement in load holding ability, when using the SOHC clutch in an OHV. He also confirmed that the OHV flywheel can be drilled/tapped for the SOHC pressure plate. He stated that it takes 40 grams of material removal, all one side, to cause an imbalance. Drilling the new bolt holes is nowhere near 40 grams of material removal, and they holes are spaced around the diameter, not in one spot.

After a 2nd call to AMS, it looks like drilling/tapping will not be needed. Part# 07-167 WOULD require that, as it has different bolt pattern. Part# 07-139 will bolt right up to my '93 OHV flywheel, is an oem self adjusting style, and has the larger SOHC 10.125" disc. I believe I have found the "magic" solution here. There is now no reason for anybody to buy the smaller OHV 9" clutch. You can buy AMS 07-139 from RockAuto ($161.79) and bolt it right in to your older truck. Instant clutch upgrade. While AMS doesn't do disc upgrades, they offered to put me in touch with someone who will replace some of the friction material w/ kevlar. However, I don' think I will need to do this.

Also, we spoke about early slave failure, and he agreed with my hypothesis that most of them were due to over-travel of the slave. He pointed to a blocked "compensation" port in the master as one frequent issue as well. He agreed that a 0.020 (20 thousandths) - BUT NO MORE - (unless the flywheel has been machined) flywheel shim, would help reduce the likelihood of early, over- travel induced, slave failure.

So, I am looking at AMS part# 07-139. Any thoughts, opinions, dire warnings, etc...?

How is your clutch holding up?
 






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