03 lincoln aviator

[jd4242]

Did a master reset,seemed to help some but the abs light came back on and the rough idle is still there. .

parked it and smelt gas.shut it off and looked at the injectors and the back passenger side is leaking where it connects to the rail..i sure dont remember seeing or smelling that when i did coils or the reset..have to take a closer look tomorrow. .im having the truck professionally detailed right now..it looks GOOD so far,crazy how much the can clean and bring leather back

 

[jd4242]

Oil light will be a function of the message center I'd assume. Lincolns version of. Should find that info in the owners manual.

Shouldn't be a cabin air filter. The fresh air door may have fallen onto the blower. Research blend doors etc. If you drop the glove box, directly behind it you'll see a box with a grate at the top. There's a vacuum actuator there to the left. When you switch to max air, see if it moves a flap, or if the actuator moves with nothing attached.

Haven't had a chance to do this yet but think your on right track..when i switch the "outside/inside" air switch the air gets no stronger in the front..normally on all the other vehicles ive seen it does,i assuming the blend door is stuck open like you said..

 

[Number4]

Unfortunately, the fresh air door tends to break off and fall on the blower. From there, it's symptoms vary.

 

[Number4]

My mom just did front wheel bearings on her 04 Aviator 2 months ago and it was <$500 using Timken bearings. You got robbed.

@shadowless127, without throwing any insults, you need to know that Timken only makes roller style bearings. That would be the rear bearing itself, or the front bearings on the first gens etc. Timken does not make our front hub assemblies themselves. They are in fact off shore white box product sold under the Timkin name.

 

[shadowless127]

@shadowless127, without throwing any insults, you need to know that Timken only makes roller style bearings. That would be the rear bearing itself, or the front bearings on the first gens etc. Timken does not make our front hub assemblies themselves. They are in fact off shore white box product sold under the Timkin name.

I just looked it up. Seems at some point during late 2010 or early 2011 they started slowly transitioning to offshore garbage, but through early 2014 people were still getting USA made units. I'm pretty pissed now. Guess the Mountaineer is going to get Moogs moving forward.

Prior to getting these hubs for my mom, the last Timken product I purchased was back in 2009-2010, which explains MY confusion.

 

[Number4]

Anything can change at any moment these days. Federal Mogul is buying up a lot of companies of late. Usually means the quality goes down. But, bigger than that, they also bought or are going to buy a parts store chain. Which may mean their parts become exclusive, or expensive every where else.

 

[shadowless127]

Anything can change at any moment these days. Federal Mogul is buying up a lot of companies of late. Usually means the quality goes down. But, bigger than that, they also bought or are going to buy a parts store chain. Which may mean their parts become exclusive, or expensive every where else.

Maybe it's Advance Auto, since every Advance Auto brand product I put on my 01 failed prematurely. Got two of their u joints for the rear prop shaft, and the front one let go after ~!500mi leaving my driveshaft dragging on a road a mile from my house -_-

 

[jd4242]

Unfortunately, the fresh air door tends to break off and fall on the blower. From there, it's symptoms vary.

So today i looked and you were correct the door is broken off and fell ontop the fan..i used a piece of wire to grab it and wedge it up,air blows much harder but assuming the fresh air is still coming in and could blow much harder..

Do you by chance know how to fix or replace that door or have a link to a thread??


Also i pulled the injectors and the passengers rear upper had a chunk missing,i replaced it but didnt do a master reset again..

I still having really rough idle but its not constant, sometimes at a stop it idles fine..only does it at idle,wot or cruise seems fine.was getting around 16 mpg in town tonight even with the bad idle...

I need to pull codes as my abs light is on..ive read there is 4 sensors. .one on each front tires,one on rear diff and one ontop the trans...is this correct? ? Also i read if the one ontop the trans is bad you can get slam shifts going into reverse from drive or park,is this true?? Today it did slam into reverse bit was first time its done that and all drive gears are fine,shifts,down shifts and no flares..

The servo and solenoids are on my list after the front passengers upper balljoint. .any suggestions for upper balljoints? ? All the other bushings and joints look good,no cracks or play

 

[jd4242]

Got codes..tested it with the truck off,fyi.

P0430
C1440
B1676
C1234
C1145


Anyone??

 

[Number4]

Got codes..tested it with the truck off,fyi.

P0430
C1440
B1676
C1234
C1145


Anyone??

The P0430 could be the reason for the miss, or caused by too much unburned fuel making it to the cat.

The other codes could all be related. On issue may be causing all of them to trigger.

Don't know about the Aviators, but I believe Ex's with Advance Trac have sensors at all wheels, the others have it in the rear diff and not rear wheels.

 

[jd4242]

The P0430 could be the reason for the miss, or caused by too much unburned fuel making it to the cat.

The other codes could all be related. On issue may be causing all of them to trigger.

Don't know about the Aviators, but I believe Ex's with Advance Trac have sensors at all wheels, the others have it in the rear diff and not rear wheels.

Thats the catch ""22"" code..the miss could be causing it to throw that code or that code could be causing the miss..

Thats a O2 code from what i gathered, correct? ?

The abs codes i assume is from a bad hub,either way just the sensor is not replaceable.the whole hub needs to be done..i ordered one today and will be here tomorrow..i also ordered the sensor for the master (code C1440) ,so we will see if that gets ride of all the abs codes

I fixed the passengers balljoint today,had to pull the whole upper arm to be able to press it out and in..drives much better.


Any ideas how to fix the freah air door??

 

[jd4242]

I just looked it up. Seems at some point during late 2010 or early 2011 they started slowly transitioning to offshore garbage, but through early 2014 people were still getting USA made units. I'm pretty pissed now. Guess the Mountaineer is going to get Moogs moving forward.

Prior to getting these hubs for my mom, the last Timken product I purchased was back in 2009-2010, which explains MY confusion.

I just ordered TIMKEN SP470200 front hub with abs for $109 shipped fyi..i hope its not to much of junk

 

[Number4]

Blend door needs a new door (box maybe?) and a new vacuum actuator. Ford told me the actuator fails, over extends and breaks the door. I think the actuators "over extend" as designed and the doors are just too weak to hold over time.

I was going to pick up an intact door from the wrecker and see if one could be made of aluminum.

You can remove the screws for the housing (rear one is a pain) and open it to retrieve the door. You want to close off the fresh air as it lets cold air (winter) and hot air (summer) directly into the cab.

 

[Number4]

I just ordered TIMKEN SP470200 front hub with abs for $109 shipped fyi..i hope its not to much of junk

Sensors by themselves would be $100.

 

[jd4242]

Sensors by themselves would be $100.

Its the whole hub with abs

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1119495&jnid=230&jpid=0

 

[boominXplorer]

The dash HAS to be unbolted and pulled back to replace the fresh air door. My girls door broke in her 04. I pulled it out and aluminum taped the inlet in the cowl keeping it basically in recirculation mode. That was much easier than pulling the dash and I even have a good door to swap in. It's a winter project for me when work is slow.

 

[jd4242]

Found this..plan on doing this for now,dont care if i get freah air,doesnt get that cold here in winter so dont really need it for defrost. .

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...om-vents-on-max-ac-heres-a-workaround.284042/

 

[jd4242]

Well replaced the hub today and it definitely seemed bad.mad noise when i spun it and had play in it..very simple job,took me 8 mins..thats including taking the sensor off the master,spraying it with brake cleaner and tapping it..did a master reset and.....NO MORE ABS CODES...

But i do still have a roaring sound like mud tires but again this truck has 3 different tires on it and crappy ones at that..sounds like its coming from rear...

Idle has improved with reset but still noticeable. .pulled the IAC and its working fine..waiting for codes to come back but thinking its the O2..

Also ""fixed"" my fresh air door..i pulled box apart enough to pull the broken door out..then pulled the wipper cowl off and reached down in it and filled the area for fresh air with ""speaker polly fill""..then shoved a ruber gasket between the crack and truck body..its pretty sealed off..air blows HARD and COLD..

next is to figure out this idle but more importantly i am getting BAD bang shifts,seems like 3-4..servos and solenoids are about to be ordered with the O2..just need to check a few more things first for idle issues

Some pictures of it after professional detail..costed me $150 but you should have seen the leather...

 

[Joe in NY]

for quality bearing go with SKF. Made in USA. Expensive but high quality. Have bought 3 of them in the past 5 years for other cars.

 

[Number4]

That deep lug tire sound is always a wheel bearing. Just a matter of which one and at least you now know which one it isn't.