How I changed my 05's Front Wheel Bearing

[MasonJH]

Anyone have a part number just for a front wheel bearing for a 2005 Explorer? Rockauto is unclear if one is available. Or do I have to replace the entire hub? Thanks.

 

[edwx]

You need the whole hub unit.

 

[Scottwat1]

Bolt Specs

I started this job today thinking...oh wow, only 3 bolts. Which has led me here.

I need to buy the deep offset as my standard one isn't doing a great job. I am leaning toward backing the 3 bolts off enough to get a saw-zall or hack saw blade in there.

Does anyone have the spec's on those bolts? Being that they are so tight, I don't want to buy too soft of steel, wrong thread pattern, etc. And its metric so that throws a curve in my hardware knowledge.

I read thru about 10 pages and didn't see the info I seek and am dog ass tired and need to hit the rack. Thanks for all the solid advice on this thread.

 

[stl730]

I did both front hubs over the weekend (play on passenger side and roaring on driver side) and after putting everything everything back together and torquing the axle nut. It looks like the axle has to move toward the hub. See picture below but I am concerned there is too large of a gap there. I would think it should sit almost against the inside of the wheel bearing. I drove it around the block and it feels good but I figured I would check here before giving it a real road test.

 

[helphos]

I started this job today thinking...oh wow, only 3 bolts. Which has led me here.

I need to buy the deep offset as my standard one isn't doing a great job. I am leaning toward backing the 3 bolts off enough to get a saw-zall or hack saw blade in there.

Does anyone have the spec's on those bolts? Being that they are so tight, I don't want to buy too soft of steel, wrong thread pattern, etc. And its metric so that throws a curve in my hardware knowledge.

I read thru about 10 pages and didn't see the info I seek and am dog ass tired and need to hit the rack. Thanks for all the solid advice on this thread.

Where I bought the hubs they had two kinds: one with the bolts you need, and one without. BUT it didnt say it on the website. It just cost more for one part number without any explanation. I'm glad I paid the extra money, because I had to hacksaw them off, after backing them out a 1/4 inch with great effort!
Good Luck!

 

[PUR PONY]

Thepotroast- your PM is full. Do you know if the guy selling OEM hubs is stills selling them?

 

[Frohike999]

I just did the wheel bearings on my wife's 2005 Mountaineer this weekend and wanted to thank you guys for the suggestion on the deep offset wrench. I was able to change each side in an hour.

I ended up going with the Moog hubs and so far it drives great. The only issue I ran into when changing the hubs is I got to the point where I couldn't fit the wrench on the bolt as I was backing them out because of the axle being in the way. I had to push the axle in toward the engine a couple inches for clearance, but that wasn't a big deal really.

 

[FordLover]

I just did both fronts on my 2002. I will say this is the only time I regret buying the 4x4, the 2wd would have been gravy. Using thin wall sockets, I was able to get the hub bolts off without too much effort after using the air hammer with the blunt point chisel, to push the axle back.
I feel for those who live in the rust belt, nearly everything under my truck still looks new, very little rust anywhere on this ~15 year old truck.

I used the Hub 67 and found it to be a perfect 100% match for the original. Even came with new hub bolts, brake bracket bolts and clips for the sensor wire. I used the Motorcraft part because I don't ever want to do that job again.

 

[edwx]

HUB 67 is the way to go. Thumbs up......and yes you are fortunate to live in a rust free zone

 

[MrPulldown]

I am in the middle of this job, and was able to remove 2 of the 3 hub bolts with a 1/2" drive socket and impact. However the 3rd top bolt was impossible. I was able to disconnect the upper ball joint from the knuckle and swing the knuckle down. This made for all kinds of room. If I ever need to do this job again (other side) I won't even bother with those 3 bolts until I pop the UBJ. Takes less than 5 minutes to do and saves a ton of headache.

 

[Argentimage]

done the left side now twice and the pass just once, harbor or any other tool is wasting time and huge effort, that 15mm do sears does the trick on 166k rusted never removed bolts, separation from the spindle is the bigger issue requiring a little bit of chisel work.


two years back I got the a ford part off ebay, no timken, thinking now the guy was buying 50$ hub-bearing asy from china and putting them in dealer service part boxes, and seling for 150 profit - it did not last.

 

[Argentimage]

well I got this down to 1/2 hour lug nut off to lug not on, bad quality China parts to blame, MOOG are made in china and its 50/50 you get a good one. Next time - its only TIMKEN the OE part.

 

[apenland01]

For the fronts, the SKF is probably the best brand going on these Explorers.

 

[MrPulldown]

For the fronts, the SKF is probably the best brand going on these Explorers.

The most expensive too.

 

[apenland01]

Worth the extra $100 or whatever it is to NOT have to ever do it again......

 

[Argentimage]

left front gone for a second time, this time cooking hte grease out of the joint noticed.
no more MOOG CHINA CRAK from AZ, timken this time
ABS and traction lights went off, sometime 4x4 - that did not go away. new thread.

 

[rodb]

As an update to an old thread, Timken is now made in China.