Check Engine Light/Overdrive Problems

[Grand Pree]

I have a 2000 Sport, 126,000 miles. The check fuel cap light came on, then the check engine light. The first facility replaced the fuel cap but didn't tell me the code or diagnose it. I don't think they knew what to do other than reset the light. It was fixed on a Friday and both lights were back on on Tuesday. The second facility read the code and diagnosed the problem as P0455 evaporative emission control leak (gross leak) and P0457 evaporative emission control leak detected. They replaced the evaporative vent valve. I picked it up on 11/08. The check fuel cap light came on and went off on 11/12. Last night, 11/14, the check engine light came back on and is on now. Would anybody have any experience with this problem or suggestions? Also, the transmission seems to be hunting between third and fourth, or fourth and fifth, excessively. It's now turning almost 3000 rpm at 60 mph. It should be turning around 2000. Again, experiences or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks to all. Grand Pree

 

[gatzdon]

Get a Bluetooth OBDII Reader (the $10-$20 ones on Amazon should work fine for older vehicles including yours) and Forscan Lite on your smart phone ($5 in app stores, free if you use a laptop with Bluetooth). Forscan and a Bluetooth OBDII reader gives you access to DTC's on all modules in the vehicle and access to hundreds of PID values (thousands on newer vehicles) including the evap monitoring status.

Stop letting people clear the codes.

Read the codes yourself from ALL modules in the vehicle, not just the OBD codes.

After replacing the gas cap, the next step for the Evap Leak should have been a proper smoke test. Don't ever let a shop 'guess' and replace parts without a proper diagnosis. If the shop can't/won't do a smoke test, move on and never go back there. (Fun fact, my gross leak turned out to be a rusted filler neck, no amount of replacing random parts was going to fix that).

Before the evap monitoring test will run, it requires a minimum 8 hours cold soak time, fuel tank between 25% and 75%, outside temperatures between 40F and 80F, 10 to 30 minutes constant velocity at 45-55MPH within the first 30 minutes driving. Any of those conditions not met and the Evap Monitoring test won't even run (meaning you won't know it's not fixed until all conditions are met and the test runs to completion in order to fail).

I repeat...Stop letting people clear the codes.

For the transmission, the PCM needs to 'learn' the diagnosis and that takes time/data. Clearing the codes starts the process all over again. If you are lucky, the PCM will tell you exactly what is failing down to the specific part/solenoid.

At 16 years old and only 126,000 miles, has the trans fluid been changed yet? It could be as simple as old trans fluid. It may take 2-3 trans fluid changes to get back to normal as it takes time for fresh trans fluid to dissolve built up gunk in the valve body.

Good Luck

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Tip for your transmission, don't do a full flush, you likely have clutch material in your fluid, do a pan drop/filter change a few times to change it, that way you keep clutch material.

 

[Grand Pree]

Get a Bluetooth OBDII Reader (the $10-$20 ones on Amazon should work fine for older vehicles including yours) and Forscan Lite on your smart phone ($5 in app stores, free if you use a laptop with Bluetooth). Forscan and a Bluetooth OBDII reader gives you access to DTC's on all modules in the vehicle and access to hundreds of PID values (thousands on newer vehicles) including the evap monitoring status.

Stop letting people clear the codes.

Read the codes yourself from ALL modules in the vehicle, not just the OBD codes.

After replacing the gas cap, the next step for the Evap Leak should have been a proper smoke test. Don't ever let a shop 'guess' and replace parts without a proper diagnosis. If the shop can't/won't do a smoke test, move on and never go back there. (Fun fact, my gross leak turned out to be a rusted filler neck, no amount of replacing random parts was going to fix that).

Before the evap monitoring test will run, it requires a minimum 8 hours cold soak time, fuel tank between 25% and 75%, outside temperatures between 40F and 80F, 10 to 30 minutes constant velocity at 45-55MPH within the first 30 minutes driving. Any of those conditions not met and the Evap Monitoring test won't even run (meaning you won't know it's not fixed until all conditions are met and the test runs to completion in order to fail).

I repeat...Stop letting people clear the codes.

For the transmission, the PCM needs to 'learn' the diagnosis and that takes time/data. Clearing the codes starts the process all over again. If you are lucky, the PCM will tell you exactly what is failing down to the specific part/solenoid.

At 16 years old and only 126,000 miles, has the trans fluid been changed yet? It could be as simple as old trans fluid. It may take 2-3 trans fluid changes to get back to normal as it takes time for fresh trans fluid to dissolve built up gunk in the valve body.

Good Luck

Thanks for the great advice. I'm definitely getting the code reader. You're right, the codes are simply being cleared. I just had the transmission fluid changed for the second time. Thanks again.

 

[drdoom]

Keep an eye on that torque converter, and don't keep driving. +1 get the codes.