Cracked lower manifold after ECT sensor install...

[David_J]

As the title says I have apparently cracked my lower intake manifold by tightening my ECT sensor to much. The weird thing is is that when I was tightening the sensor I was still able to see the threads when the intake cracked. Almost like the sensor was to long. It was a little bit longer than the stock one but according to the parts store guy it was the right one for my Explorer. Now Im guessing the only thing that I can do is replace my lower intake. My question is how hard of a job is this? Im somewhat mechanically inclined but I've never done something this extensive. I know that the upper has to come off and that seems pretty straight forward but as for the lower Im not to sure. I plan on buying a manual and Im currently looking for a replacement lower intake manifold. Any suggestions or a step by step guide? Im new to the forum and have tried to search but I haven't come with anything. (Maybe I didn't search enough?) Anyone know where I can get a replacement lower intake manifold? Thanks in advance!
BTW its for a 97 Explorer 5.0 with EGR I believe. Just in case it doesn't show in my sig.

 

[koda2000]

I'd look for one on eBay. Looking at a photo of a lower intake will help you understand how to remove it. There are a couple of different designs. For example:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Engine-Intake-Manifold-Lower-Dorman-615-295-/282114106714?fits=Year:1997|Make:Ford|Engine+-+Liter_Display:5.0L&hash=item41af4fa55a:g:XJsAAOSwRgJXl-IT&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Engine-Intake-Manifold-Lower-Dorman-615-285-/361662335479?fits=Year:1997|Make:Ford|Engine+-+Liter_Display:5.0L&hash=item5434c149f7:g:WwYAAOSwENxXl-xe&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-GT...ash=item4658f87ecc:g:rsoAAOSw44BYLLX2&vxp=mtr

I guess you'll figure out which one you need once you get the upper off.

 

[David_J]

Thanks Koda. Any information or write up on how to remove everything?

 

[David_J]

This one looks like the one that I should have. Havent taken anything off yet but according to my research it should look like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-GT...8f87ecc:g:rsoAAOSw44BYLLX2&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true

 

[shucker1]

Kind of strange that you managed to crack the manifold while installing the sensor. Usually those things are pretty thick.

Where did it crack? At the threads?

 

[David_J]

Shucker1, yea it cracked at the threads. One crack went about 2 inches on the left side of the threads and another split right on the front. Basically when I tightened down the sensor I heard it crack and when i looked the cracks were split open as I was tightening down. Never had a leak there before until I changed that sensor.

http://imgur.com/a/hWU5V

 

[koda2000]

This one looks like the one that I should have. Havent taken anything off yet but according to my research it should look like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-GT...8f87ecc:g:rsoAAOSw44BYLLX2&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true

This one was my guess as well.

 

[koda2000]

Kind of strange that you managed to crack the manifold while installing the sensor. Usually those things are pretty thick.

Where did it crack? At the threads?

Yes they are thick, but the sensor is a tapered thread and the manifold is aluminum (and 20 years old) tightening the sensor it too much is like driving a wedge into a piece of wood. It will split it.

 

[koda2000]

Again, look at photos of the upper manifold on eBay to see where the bolts are (two are hidden under the 5.0L plaque).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GT-40-Upper...1a142ad&pid=100005&rk=5&rkt=6&sd=302140391116

The upper will pull off easily, the lower will probably need to be pried off as the gaskets will be pretty well stuck. I'm not aware of any write-ups, but you'd probably be able to find a you tube video on the subject (personally I can't stand the slow, shaky videos and blabber on most you tube videos). The videos on 1AAuto are much more professional. They may have one for your engine on intake r&r (link below).

https://www.1aauto.com/videos

Basically the way I go about this type of repair is to just remove everything that's in my way until the part comes off. The most important thing is to make sure you've removed all the bolts.

If you're a bolt breaker - Tip: If you don't own a torque wrench it's a good investment. A 3/8's for up to 50 foot lbs and a 1/2" for higher torques. If you don't have a repair manual you might want to buy one so you know how much to tighten things.

Tip: While the intake is off, it's a great time to replace the valve cover gaskets. I'm facing this repair on two of my 5.0's soon.

 

[David_J]

Thanks Koda. I appreciate your help. Im going to tackle this here soon. Maybe in a few days. I will let you all know how it turns out. Wish me luck! Lol

 

[shucker1]

Yes they are thick, but the sensor is a tapered thread and the manifold is aluminum (and 20 years old) tightening the sensor it too much is like driving a wedge into a piece of wood. It will split it.

Agreed, I wanted to make sure before I mentioned anything about possibly tightening the sensor too much. I like to run a chase tap in mine just to clear the threads of junk before installation.

"Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt."

Abraham Lincoln

 

[koda2000]

David, I edited my previous post to include some tips. Be sure to re-read it.

Good luck!

 

[koda2000]

Here's a link showing the intake gasket set. It will also give you a good idea of where the bolts are. Note the 2 kind of "S" shaped front/rear lower intake gaskets.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MS16127-Victor-Reinz-Intake-Manifold-Gasket-Set-/301943476752?fits=Year:1997|Make:Ford|Engine+-+Liter_Display:5.0L&hash=item464d3bd210:g:VvsAAOSwtO5XI2w6&vxp=mtr

Improper installation of these gaskets are the leading cause of oil leaks. Personally I throw them away and prefer to use a thick (pencil thickness) bead of Ultra Black RTV on the block before dropping the lower intake back on. Be sure to run the bead from a little ways up on the side intake manifold gaskets to assure no leaks.

 

[lobo411]

I don't have a 5.0, but the 4.0 has an aluminum lower intake manifold. If the 5.0 is as well, there should be a torque sequence that you'll need to know. The bolts needed to be tightened in a specific pattern, and usually in stages (ie pass 1--10 lb ft, pass 2--14 lb ft, pass 3--16 lb-ft, pass 4--18 lb-ft). That's the only part of the job where you need to be especially careful, imo.

 

[David_J]

Awesome! Thanks for all of the information. It will definitely come in handy. Thanks again Koda. I will take a look at those links for sure.

 

[koda2000]

Awesome! Thanks for all of the information. It will definitely come in handy. Thanks again Koda. I will take a look at those links for sure.

You're welcome.

Tip: Take plenty of pictures as you take stuff apart so you can refer to them during re-assembly. Also mark hoses/wires with masking tape so you know where they reconnect too. I often use a silver Sharpie on hoses and a series of dots rather than words (just faster).

 

[imp]

I imagine Shucker would Heliarc that cracked bugger and then chase the thread.......imp

 

[shucker1]

10,000 clowns are out of work my friend...

Don't quit your day job.

 

[crunchie_frog]

Hi David J,

I have done a few of these and be careful as some of the bolts on the lower intake may be hard to back out due to coolant leaking by the gaskets and rusting the bolts. Heat on the bolt head can help, hard to get penetrant in to make contact threads. Also, be careful cleaning the gasket surfaces on the heads, all of the old gasket material needs to come off down to bare metal and the old gasket pieces want to get all in the engine valley and intake ports. Patience is your friend.

Not sure what EGR configuration you have but a 1&1/16 crow's foot makes it easier for me to disconnect the EGR from the exhaust manifold and or from the EGR valve, which you will need to do to remove the upper intake. I think some models also have a 1" nut on the exhaust manifold that you may have to wrench to get to the EGR tube disconnected.

There is a Pull A Part in Columbia SC that you could visit and pull an intake and it probably cost less than $30 and they always have a few 5.0 Explorer/Mountaineers on the lot.

There is a torque sequence for both the manifolds you can find on Google.

 

[David_J]

Hi David J,

I have done a few of these and be careful as some of the bolts on the lower intake may be hard to back out due to coolant leaking by the gaskets and rusting the bolts. Heat on the bolt head can help, hard to get penetrant in to make contact threads. Also, be careful cleaning the gasket surfaces on the heads, all of the old gasket material needs to come off down to bare metal and the old gasket pieces want to get all in the engine valley and intake ports. Patience is your friend.

Not sure what EGR configuration you have but a 1&1/16 crow's foot makes it easier for me to disconnect the EGR from the exhaust manifold and or from the EGR valve, which you will need to do to remove the upper intake. I think some models also have a 1" nut on the exhaust manifold that you may have to wrench to get to the EGR tube disconnected.

There is a Pull A Part in Columbia SC that you could visit and pull an intake and it probably cost less than $30 and they always have a few 5.0 Explorer/Mountaineers on the lot.

There is a torque sequence for both the manifolds you can find on Google.

Thanks a lot man. Every bit of information helps. There is a nice local pull a part in Greer which is only about a 20 minute drive from me. Ill check that place out but Im a little weary of getting one from a junkyard. I've been looking on eBay and a few other sites trying to find the best deal. Im in no rush with this job so taking my time is definitely what Ill do. Ill probably clean the upper intake as well since it will be off and maybe change the plugs and wires, valve cover gaskets, a few sensors etc. Ill come back and update this thread and let everyone know how things are progressing. Thanks again everyone