Lifter Replacement V8 5.0

[gatzdon]

I have been using google to search, but haven't found exactly what I'm looking for.

Does anyone know of a good walk through for replacing the lifters on this engine?

Have a single collapsed hydraulic lifter. Will probably replace them all as it probably got gunked up due to excessive idling (municipal owned vehicle with only 100k miles on it). Have already removed the valve cover and confirmed which lifter is stuck collapsed.

I have the vague understanding that the lower intake manifold has to be removed to replace the lifters.

So far, I know I need the upper/lower intake manifold gaskets and 16 lifters. I like to go through procedure before tearing into to find out not just what I need to replace, but also what to inspect while it's apart. I figure this is a 4-6 hour job for an experienced mechanic, probably a weekend for someone like me taking their time and learning along the way.

Any pointers/advice is appreciated.

 

[shucker1]

I have the vague understanding that the lower intake manifold has to be removed to replace the lifters.

No vague in that statement. It has to come off.

Main things I would look for:

A) Tag all hoses and electrical connectors so they go back where they belong.
B) Change PCV valve since lower intake is off. More room back there now.
C) Tag all pushrods so they go back where they came from.
D) Get a sheet of glass and test straightness of all pushrods by rolling them across the glass and noting any humps. Replace if necessary.
E) Inspect condition of lower lifter roller on each one as they come out. Any chips, burs, nicks or funny looking stuff could mean you camshaft lobes could be worn too.

Not a common problem but.

F) Get yourself a shop manual off of EBAY and read it to understand what you are getting into.

It's not a hard job but it's tedious and one screw up and you could be in big trouble.

 

[shucker1]

Almost forgot:

G) Prime your lifters before you put them back in!

 

[gatzdon]

Thanks for the reminder on the PCV valve.

I was planning on replacing all lifters and probably all pushrods/rocker arms too.

I'm concerned about the difficulty removing the lower intake manifold bolts (is there a history of them breaking?) and how sensitive they are to torque requirements. I have also read cautions that not all of the bolts are necessarily the same length.

Thanks for the fast reply. I'm in the process of putting together a RockAuto shopping list.

Do I need a lifter removal tool, or can I just pull them up/out after the intake manifold is off?

I also got the advice to manually turn the engine over with the lifters in place and verify they all come up to the same height, especially the one that is collapsed.

 

[Turdle]

Yep. The 4 corner intake bolts will not be fun and may break. Work them back and forth ( CCW and CW) when removing them going a little further CCW if you can. If then do break off, mix some acetone with transmission fluid 50-50 mix , soak this on the threads overnite. Be real careful, I ended up welding a nut to the broken stud last time I was in there.

It might be good to note the 4 corner bolts were the only issue, as they are a through bolt, the lower threads are exposed. It isn't a "blind" hole. So if you can manage to get some acetone-trans fluid mix applied to these exposed threads before starting, it might be time well spent.

This picture will give you an idea of what I mean-

 

[shucker1]

Do I need a lifter removal tool, or can I just pull them up/out after the intake manifold is off?

Shouldn't need one although it is nice.

You should be able to pull all of the spark plugs and rotate the engine by hand very easy.

As the cam rotates it will push the lifter up high enough to where you can snag them by hand an take them out.

The big thing is setting preload when you have the pushrods and rockers back in. I like to rotate to TDC #1 (Both Valves Closed) and just follow the firing order to set my preloads.

 

[imp]

Shouldn't need one although it is nice.

You should be able to pull all of the spark plugs and rotate the engine by hand very easy.

As the cam rotates it will push the lifter up high enough to where you can snag them by hand an take them out.

The big thing is setting preload when you have the pushrods and rockers back in. I like to rotate to TDC #1 (Both Valves Closed) and just follow the firing order to set my preloads.

@shucker1
What are these preloads you speak of? Do these heads have adjustable rockers? Or nuts that bottom against a shoulder on the support stud? Are the rockers roller rockers? Did they retain the old 5.0HO lifter guides to prevent lifter rotation? Never had opportunity to work on/see into the last of the 5.0s as used in Explorer. Thanks! imp

 

[shucker1]

Yep.

Sorry, forgot the OP seems to be using to old fulcrum rocker system where you torque to preset value.

Roller rockers are (2) Types. Poly Lock with studs, or pedestal type where preload is adjusted by adding or removing shims under the pedestal to get proper preload.

Either way, I like to rotate to TDC, firing order before I make final torque.

My 98 has the metal anti rotation guides on the lifters which were reinstalled.

I think forum member Dono and a few others actually have the link bars on their lifters. A really smart item if you are going into the "Big Horsepower" league.

 

[imp]

@shucker1
I see what your sayin', just never heard it called preload before. Actually, it's the squeezing down of the lifter inner barrel, forcing out oil until the correct "cushion" height is left, I think Ford used to call it "clearance". Keeps the combined parts from going "solid", which holds valves off their seats. Clear now, thanks! imp

 

[shucker1]

In all reality you are trying to "Center" the actual lifter mechanism in the lifter body at mid range of travel.

 

[Dono]

I think forum member Dono and a few others actually have the link bars on their lifters.

The only caution I have on the link bar lifters is that the heads have to come off to install them. And, if one fails....yup, head comes off.

 

[imp]

In all reality you are trying to "Center" the actual lifter mechanism in the lifter body at mid range of travel.

@shucker1
Hate to be an A. H., guy, but no, you don't necessarily want to center it. The overall clearance amount within a lifter for the inner barrel may be a helluva lot more than 2X the free clearance (no oil within), and that waives strict manufacturing tolerance requirements. The lifters I have disassembled (yeah, back in the ice age), had 1/4" free movement w/o oil, and Ford recommended operating on a 3/16" cushion of oil. Whatter we, splittin' hairs here?? imp

Wanna shoot a game of pool??