Dead Battery | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Dead Battery

Jerime

New Member
Joined
June 23, 2016
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Explorer Limited
We have a 2013 explorer limited awd and last night the battery went out completely, no light or anything just out of the blue we had nothing. We got a new battery installed it and it started right up, but now we have a lot of warning lights and messages that are staying on. We've only had this vehicle a few months and are new to this forum so any help on how to fix this issue would be appreciated.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





what kind of warning lights and messages? try system reboot by disconnecting the negative terminal of your new battery for at least 5 minutes and do the re learn procedure
 






I tried the disconnect. I have the parking brake light, abs light, track control, stability control then the messages that comes on the left side saying collision warning, hill descent and brake system. It runs and drives fine just shows all of that stuff and also can't change my awd system.
 






I tried the disconnect. I have the parking brake light, abs light, track control, stability control then the messages that comes on the left side saying collision warning, hill descent and brake system. It runs and drives fine just shows all of that stuff and also can't change my awd system.

Sounds like there's a faulty computer somewhere. Is the dealer an option or are you out of warranty?
 






It's got 53,000 on it but we do have a warranty from Carmax. Sounds like I just need to get it to a dealer then.
 






Curious did you have the old battery tested or just replace it?

Thinking the computer may have shut down everything including the battery. As for all the remaining warnings it could be a fuse. Look them over with your manual and see if there is a common fuse. I would think the computer will reset after a few key cycles.
 






2014 Sport with 64k - almost exactly. It's 3 years old now and I noticed the other day (in hindsight) it was just slightly slower to turn over. Noted nothing else on the screens, etc. Then, went to the garage to take off to go get one of our kids and it just clicked. Nothing. Dead. Used my charger and boosted it enough to start (barely) the next morning. Drove to Ford at 7am (because they were the only ones open then) and bought a new battery for $107 and installed it myself in their parking lot.

I was surprised with all the electronic gizmos that I didn't get more advanced warning. Glad it died in my garage, though...

Shumax
 






so on the surface all of those lights are connected - and it makes me think the fuse to either the ABS controller or the fuse to TCM died. If it was the TCM I wouldn't think it would shift right - but there are multiple fuses in there. Give the fuse panel on the inside and underhood a good going over. Or make your dealer do it.

Describe the collision alert though - which one is that one. that's bothersome.

the rest makes sense if a fuse or relay for the ABS/Stability system (they are they same) happened to die in the battery transition, and that does happen occasionally.

Likewise other ford cars have issues with fuses dieing that cause the GEM (general electronics module - fancy computer relay) to go wonky and do all sorts of odd things. So that's my first guess sight unseen. Check out the fuses.
 






We have a 2013 explorer limited awd and last night the battery went out completely, no light or anything just out of the blue we had nothing. We got a new battery installed it and it started right up, but now we have a lot of warning lights and messages that are staying on. We've only had this vehicle a few months and are new to this forum so any help on how to fix this issue would be appreciated.

Just drive it for a bit before throwing up a flag.

When the battery died in the wife's 2011, the electronics went wacky for a few hours after I installed the replacement. Straightened itself out.

My late father's 2016 Subaru had a bad battery in it, went completely dead. Jumped it and it had warning lights until I took it on an hour and a half drive to my house. Straightened itself out.
 






My 2014 Limited's battery just died Sat. 3 years and 1 day from delivery. Have had several new car batteries last 35 to 36 months. Just nature of the beast I guess.
 






I think it's because they make the plates thinner and use less electrolyte in them but try to keep the same cranking amp thoughput.

they aren't meant to go beyond 36M/36K miles warranty.
 






I think it's because they make the plates thinner and use less electrolyte in them but try to keep the same cranking amp thoughput.

they aren't meant to go beyond 36M/36K miles warranty.
Stop thinking. Less electrolyte?? Open the caps. Top up the fluid till the circle looks like a eye. Take a drive.
UNTIL THE CELL IS SHORTED FROM LEAD FLAKING TO THE BOTTOM. THE BATTERY WILL HOLD A CHARGE.
 






or until the lead plates that are now just foil bonded to a plastic sheet - crack off and lean over.

hence my point - today's batteries use less lead per unit than the ones of the past - why - Lead is supposedly bad. Hell 2 years ago they stopped smelting virgin lead - so all lead today bought and sold is recycled.

your battery of 20 years ago had a solid lead plate - probably in the neighborhood of 0.1 or 0.085 inches thick - today it's lead foil attached to a plastic sheet or lattice. It's why AGM - Acid Gel MAT batteries are the new norm.

Also most batteries today are sealed for your safety. IE the new battery ford put in my explorer a few weeks ago is sealed up.
 






Get a Yellow Top.
 






Get a Yellow Top.

I bought an Optima Yellow Top online from Amazon, it failed about 60 days after install (voltage would rapidly fall to less than 11 volts after charging - on the bench). Did an online chat with Amazon customer service, told them the trouble, along with the testing procedures I did, and they sent me a replacement, told me to properly dispose of the old one. they didn't want it back. Very good customer service (I'm a long time Prime member, if that makes a difference). The replacement is doing very well, would recommend it over the Optima Red Top for vehicles that are not daily drivers.
 






My battery died at 50K...at a gas station..luckily i got a jump and it was good for another 2 days..but it was drained...sucked. All the lights flickered/came on and off. It was like a horror film for 2 min
 






Ironically the 2 best batteries I've ever used were Interstate and Autozone's Duralast Gold. Took the most abuse and was easiest to determine when it was dead

When the explorer's battery goes again - if not under warranty - I will get something other than a motorcraft battery. Probably not an optima though. Most people I know that have run them all switch back to something else within 2 replacements.

What I'd love to do but I know the car doesn't have the equipment to monitor it right is put in a Ni-MH AGM battery set that's used in most airplanes. save 2-5 lbs - have more capacity - and higher current throughput.
 






My battery died at 50K...at a gas station..luckily i got a jump and it was good for another 2 days..but it was drained...sucked. All the lights flickered/came on and off. It was like a horror film for 2 min

My 2012 installed at Factory battery would not start the EX in july. I topped up the fluids. Jumped and have been driving it since. I do not drive everyday and it sits for a few days but always starts. Today @ -4 degrees it still remote starts and this is without the block heater being used. Surprised me too. I planned on a replacement by now.
 






My OEM battery on the 2017 just gave up the ghost at 14k!

Dealer trip tomorrow for a warranty replacement. Jump box saved my butt. After a 20 minute drive and one minute of KOEO afterward to check the spurious codes, the car began malfunctioning again and went immediately into load shed.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





My OEM battery on the 2017 just gave up the ghost at 14k!

Dealer trip tomorrow for a warranty replacement. Jump box saved my butt. After a 20 minute drive and one minute of KOEO afterward to check the spurious codes, the car began malfunctioning again and went immediately into load shed.
Electrolyte level high? Plates covered???
 






Back
Top