Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread | Page 75 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

As some of you know, I am working on building a parts list for a shortened Dana 44, long radius arm with coil overs SAS. 5:13 gears to match my rear axle and an ARB, maybe an electric locker. I have a pretty good list so far. At the same time, I am going to swap out the rear drum brakes for discs off of a 99 Explorer.

Please note: The plan is to keep this project as simple as possible with mostly off the shelf parts. I am not a fabricator, just a decent welder with a what I would consider the minimum required tools (chop saw, cut off wheels, air tools, welder, etc.), who likes doing his own work. Your opinions are welcome, but what I really need is technical advice. I have been thinking about this for several years and now have the time and cash to make it happen. Please keep on topic with your advice and don't go off on a side track about how you would do it as a four-link, or caged arms, or leave the axle full-width because that is not what I want. I want a simple-ish set up that works.
 



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I mount my Hi-lift jack to the roof rack, I disassemble it and keep the ratchet and base plate tethered in the back of the car, but the hi lift stair I keep on the roof rack, very convenient

To make usage of the Hi lift safer I welded a snug fit U shape metal bar the jack fits into, this way there is much less worry the jack can slip from under the car, or the car move sideways while on the jack

11050318_10153776185437907_6206602011899900040_o.jpg
 



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I dont have a photo of my setup exactly, but its very similar to this photo...

DSC01292.jpg
 






Haven't posted in awhile here as nothing new. Had a trail breakage while in Quartzsite, AZ yesterday. Something I would have never thought of happening. The right coilover shock shaft somehow unscrewed itself from the bottom cap/mount. I heard some banging, got out to look and found the coil springs every which way, and the shaft hanging up on the upper spring. I don't know how they stayed together. Didn't have a lot of tools, but got it all apart and back together with a hi lift, my new never used bottle jack and accessories, a 3/4" wrench, channel locks and a adjustable wrench.
IMG_20170106_104436980.jpg
The shaft threads were a little bunged up, but we got it threaded back into the cap. Shaft is a little worse for wear (a few small dings) and should be replaced. I was real happy when it went back together.
25452.jpeg
 






Wow, that's not what I had envisioned from your text. I'm glad you were able to get it back together:chug:
 






When I saw the mess, I was sure the shaft had snapped and I was screwed. It doesn't seem any worse for wear. If I had the shaft clamps that are in my work bench at home, I would pull both caps off and add lock tight.
 






Maybe a 1/8" thick jam nut on the rod end.

Amazing that it walked out like that. yikes!
 






I am trying to work out how it happened. The only down force on the shock would be the dampening of the springs, the weight of the axle and compression from the other side of the axle forcing that side down. The compression or rebound shouldn't cause the shaft to want to turn, should it? Especially in one direction (counter clockwise). With the weight of the Explorer on it, I can rotate the mounts the travel of the rod ends with little effort so there is no side pressure to speak of. Don't get it.

I guess the good from this is that that i know the front susoension is very well balanced and cycles so evenly that it didn't push the lower coil out from under the shock when the shaft compressed past the slider. In spite of those crappy FOA shocks, it works. Maybe it's time to look for new shocks.
Like Kings of course, Fox is great, ADS would be awesome, but priced out of my range.
 






It's the tiny movements. When there is little to no pressure on the shock shaft. Just gravel road vibration would be my guess. But still. Jee whiz

I think your right though locktite should do the trick.

And frequent inspections. Now that it's known issue
 






I turned the lower spring retainers so I can get my finger in the slot to feel if the threads are backing off again. The end of the threads should be even with the top of the rod end.
 






You have fought hard for those coil overs Brian. It seems like if it isn't one thing it's another. Keep up the good fight man!
 







Glad you were able to get it back together. and a side note, I really like how you mounted your coilovers. did you do the heating steps or just burn them on and keep an eye on them?

In spite of those crappy FOA shocks, it works. Maybe it's time to look for new shocks.
Like Kings of course, Fox is great, ADS would be awesome, but priced out of my range.

Used King's and Fox's or even Swayaway's are on Dezert Rangers and craiglist all the time around here. I know they are still a bit pricey, but may be worth the jump. That's where I picked up the ones for the Ranger. Also, DownSouth Motorsports is in San Carlos and are fantastic at rebuilding shocks.
 






The lower mounts were just burned on after doing some research. Those older Ford axles used forged knuckles so they weld like butter. There really isn't any room in those axles and I wanted them as far outward as possible.

I need to start looking when I get home.

Didn't let unreliable shocks keep me from exploring. Went to Dripping Springs today. Great trail. Beautiful scenery. Met up with a stocker Jeep on the trail. He turned back at a narrow spot. I went through and took the "difficult" way out. Not difficult. I would consider it moderate at best, but good for solo trips.
IMG_20170110_135322555_HDR.jpg


IMG_20170110_142747629.jpg


IMG_20170110_142651948.jpg


IMG_20170110_145807613_HDR.jpg

Stuff I didn't know that I needed prior to this trip:
New front shocks.
New standalone GPS (phone stuff isn't working for me).
Better solar panels on the RV.
 






Arizona is such a great state: Beautiful scenery, great wheelin', great camping and prospecting, and you can drive around with one of these in your car and nobody cares. It even seems to be encouraged.
IMG_20170110_161129518_HDR.jpg

Banned in California, or registered as "Assault Weapons", whatever that is... I need to move.
 












Colorado is nice too...
 






nice pictures sir, very nice.

Thanks for the info on the inner C's. I know what will be happening to the Ranger after TDS...

Edit:

"Banned" in CA ;)
 












I am working on getting up the funds for a set of Radflo coil overs. I have a deal working with Dave at davesoffroadsupply.com (shameless plug). He sold me the FOA's and must be feeling guilty because he offered me a heck of a deal on the Radflo's. They are only about $40 total more than Fox's, and for Fox I would need to wait 10-14 weeks for custom ordered shocks (Need custom valving and 90* hose fittings). Radflo has a 10-12 day wait, and according to Dave better customer service.

Going to need new limit straps because I noticed that when the shock shaft came loose, it tore up the limit strap at the mount. Might need different straps anyway because the Radflo's are a little longer overall than the FOA's.

Going up for sale soon are a set of used FOA 14" coil over shocks, with a bunch of parts and a extra set of reservoirs....one of the shocks in need of a rebuild and new shaft (couple dings and scoring marks), maybe new bottom cap (I have a couple and at near full extension that shaft has a lot of wiggle)...
 






Placed an order today for the Radflo's with custom valving (thanks TurboExplorer for the numbers). I went with 65 compression and 80 rebound (medium, medium/firm). The FOA's were medium, medium and had a little too fast of a compression and rebound so these should be close to optimal. 2.0x14", 7/8" shaft for about $140 off list. Thanks again to David at davesoffroadsupply.com.
http://davesoffroadsupply.3dcartsto...l-Over--Remote-Reservoir-78-shaft-_p_253.html
Anybody want a pair of FOA's for dirt cheap?? Comes with a bunch of parts and shock oil (leftovers from two complete rebuild kits, two extra reservoirs pre-scored, etc.), but will need a new shaft on one and I am keeping the spring hardware.
 



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:popcorn:
 






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