Door ajar light

[wingcmdr]

Alright guys. Got a head scratcher here, at least for me.
My door ajar light stays on any time the key is on.
For a while my interior lights stayed on for an extended period of time.
In my searching for an answer I found to spray all latches heavily with WD-40....done.
Found to start engine and open each door individually and listen for door chime....done.
And every door is chiming as of tonight. And my interior lights go off as soon as the doors close.
BUT...my door ajar light STILL stays on.

Any ideas on what's going on? Even checked the switch for rear glass and it's working correctly. Can't find rear hatch switch to test it, but I'm fairly sure when the problem started it was with the rear hatch or glass.

 

[97SportOHV]

on mine if I don't close the rare hatch just right it stays on its a real pain

 

[toypaseo]

Check your door ajar switches located on the latch mechanisms.

 

[Sonic_Mikey]

rear glass perhaps?

 

[UtahX]

on mine if I don't close the rare hatch just right it stays on its a real pain

Yeah, happens to me as well.

 

[J_C]

WD40 can re-liquify hardened grease and work for a while, but long term you're better off putting some spray grease on the latch mechanisms and hinges, or if you live in a climate where it gets really cold, like below 0F, a very thick oil or custom mix to get the viscosity to where it doesn't get too hard in very low temperatures. I wouldn't think you'd need to do that in NC.

As foam rubber door and hatch seals get old they can also absorb water and freeze hard, making it more difficult to get doors and hatch completely closed even if the latches engage. If they're completely dried out you can add some water repellency with a lot of silicone spray, or maybe silicone dielectric grease or some other dressing though I'd expect either to be more messy.

 

[Prince_Polaris]

Same here, I spent a while slamming both front doors until I realized the back door was causing it! I had to shut it juuuuust right, and I don't think the glass had anything to do with it. I just try to avoid slamming the hatch, because I always worry I'll break the rear wiper...

 

[wingcmdr]

Check your door ajar switches located on the latch mechanisms.

tried to, and sprayed all latches and handles liberally with WD-40

 

[toypaseo]

tried to, and sprayed all latches and handles liberally with WD-40

I would consider taking the door panels off, finding the switches, and inspecting/cleaning them. My driver door switch was my bad one, and replacing it a junkyard one solved my problem (I might have replaced it a couple times with two different junkyard ones though)

 

[Prince_Polaris]

I would consider taking the door panels off, finding the switches, and inspecting/cleaning them. My driver door switch was my bad one, and replacing it a junkyard one solved my problem (I might have replaced it a couple times with two different junkyard ones though)

I hate you guys for having junkyards on hand, there ain't one of those anywhere near where I live so I have to look at ebay and amazon's ridiculous prices

 

[toypaseo]

I hate you guys for having junkyards on hand, there ain't one of those anywhere near where I live so I have to look at ebay and amazon's ridiculous prices

When I lived in CO, the closest pick-a-part yard was maybe 30 miles. Now that I live in WY, closest is 94 miles

I still dig on eBay for parts. I look at the part's cost in the pick-a-part yard, with shipping. Now that I live 94 miles away, the small profit the eBay seller makes on the sale does not compare to how much I would spend on gas.

 

[Prince_Polaris]

When I lived in CO, the closest pick-a-part yard was maybe 30 miles. Now that I live in WY, closest is 94 miles

I still dig on eBay for parts. I look at the part's cost in the pick-a-part yard, with shipping. Now that I live 94 miles away, the small profit the eBay seller makes on the sale does not compare to how much I would spend on gas.

Oh dang, there's two of these only 3 hours away from me! http://www.pickapartva.com/

And yeah, I look at ebay all the tiem but they just want Soooo much for things...

 

[J_C]

The door latch switches are fairly sealed, not "as" easy to clean them. Used to be, on different Fords they were a separate part # that you could pick up for around $10. This "might" be right, part # SW6409, (alternate part #s listed as #6W7Z14018A, E1VY14018A, SW1653 ). Double-check yours before trusting this info, all I know for sure is it looks just like what came already bolted onto my new door latch mechanism that ran $40 at the time.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-SW6409-Door-Jamb-Relay/dp/B000IYLZ4I

 

[Rdc#1958]

The door latch switches are fairly sealed, not "as" easy to clean them. Used to be, on different Fords they were a separate part # that you could pick up for around $10. This "might" be right, part # SW6409, (alternate part #s listed as #6W7Z14018A, E1VY14018A, SW1653 ). Double-check yours before trusting this info, all I know for sure is it looks just like what came already bolted onto my new door latch mechanism that ran $40 at the time.

Amazon product ASIN B000IYLZ4I

Just looked at those using the link and they're priced at $10 right now if you're Prime member