New Control Arms for 3+" Body Lift?

[Jeremy Liscum]

I was thinking of possibly putting 2, 2" body lift blocks together to get 4" total lift.

Is this possible?

And secondly, for anything more than 3", would you need new control arms?

Thanks, Jeremy

 

[extra-medium]

I would not recommend putting 2 sets of blocks together.

Anything over 2.5" I believe you need longer control arms.

If you want that kind of lift I would suggest the strut spacers and lift struts or a body lift, or all 3.

 

[drdoom]

Body lift only has no impact on ball joint or CV axle angles. Extended control arms are for suspension lift application.

 

[Mr. Truckles]

Here's pretty much the lift deal, and I'll use my rig as an example:

Body Lift: With a 1.5" BL (What I have) The only thing you really need to do is trim the fan shroud and a few other plastic things. If you go bigger (3" is generally the max) you'll need to extend the shaft and do quite a bit more trimming. You will also need to flip the rear hitch receiver over to cover up the gap you will be left with and several other things. (Anyone who did the 3" feel free to add). You don't need to do anything with the suspension to do a body lift which is why they're a good choice for a lot of people.

Suspension:

My strut spacers are appx. 2-2.25" and give me a lift of 3". I ran it this way with the stock control arms for awhile and it was dangerous.

Even with the revised control arms the ball joint will still hit the strut at full droop with 2-2.25" spacers and the CV axles will be at their maximum offset so I wouldn't recommend going any higher. If you use lift struts I would recommend using shorter spacers so that the total lift is 3".

As far as the rear is concerned, a 1.5-1.75" spacer is the maximum you can go before the axles hit the frame at droop.

 

[Jeremy Liscum]

Here's pretty much the lift deal, and I'll use my rig as an example:

Body Lift: With a 1.5" BL (What I have) The only thing you really need to do is trim the fan shroud and a few other plastic things. If you go bigger (3" is generally the max) you'll need to extend the shaft and do quite a bit more trimming. You will also need to flip the rear hitch receiver over to cover up the gap you will be left with and several other things. (Anyone who did the 3" feel free to add). You don't need to do anything with the suspension to do a body lift which is why they're a good choice for a lot of people.

Suspension:

My strut spacers are appx. 2-2.25" and give me a lift of 3". I ran it this way with the stock control arms for awhile and it was dangerous.

Even with the revised control arms the ball joint will still hit the strut at full droop with 2-2.25" spacers and the CV axles will be at their maximum offset so I wouldn't recommend going any higher. If you use lift struts I would recommend using shorter spacers so that the total lift is 3".

As far as the rear is concerned, a 1.5-1.75" spacer is the maximum you can go before the axles hit the frame at droop.

Thanks a lot for the information!

As of right now I would probably go with the 3" body lift. And maybe the 2" front spacer lift from BTF.

Do you know if the 2" front lift makes it uneven? I emailed the guy at BTF and he said it depends on the height of the rear. I did an approximate measurement and the back measured and inch higher than the front. So would that look weird having an inch higher at the front, with the 2" spacer?

 

[Mr. Truckles]

I'm not sure if he still makes them but Brandon at BTF used to make a 1.5" spacer which is about as small as you can go. An important note is that the spacer size isn't equal to the lift amount. For example a 2" spacer will give you around a 2.75-3" lift, where as a 1.5" spacer should net you around 2".

With a 1.5" spacer up front you may end up with a little bit of a Cali lean but it probably won't be too bad. The extra weight of the V8 may help you out a little as well.