4.0 Timing Chain Rattle!!!

[CoalHeat]

I'm a new member, so bear with me please. I'm sure this had been discussed here 1000 times!
My '98 XLT has developed noisy chains, I'm familiar with the SOHC design. My first thought is to go with a Jasper replacement due to the mileage on the truck (189,500), but that is out of my price range right now. Before I pull the engine and replace all the chains and related parts I have been thinking about the tensioners. Reason being the left bank chain has been noisy on and off for a while. It was unusually quiet for a few days and suddenly today it's really noisy. Thinking the tensioner is bad or the oil flow is restricted in the passage where the nylon restricter is. Any advice is appreciated!!!

 

[koda2000]

At your mileage with the "death rattle", if you're thinking simply changing the front hydraulic tensioner will make the rattle go away you're dreaming.

Best case you can tear down the front of the engine (with engine still in the truck) and replace all the timing chain components found there. I would also remove the lower oil pan and clean out the broken plastic/metal guide pieces you'll likely find there and to clean the oil pickup screen.

 

[CoalHeat]

You just confirmed what I have been thinking. I know there is no "easy way" on this. This truck is a keeper so I'll plan on doing that.

 

[jmvb]

Welcome to the club..

 

[CoalHeat]

Thank you!
I always liked the 2nd gen Explorers. 3.5 years ago I bought this one. I almost bought a new one in 2000, but my wife decided on a Mustang ragtop instead.
I have done a lot of work on it so far. It does have some rocker rust, but only at the rear edge, not bad for being in NJ winters all it's life. I sprayed almost a gallon of Fluid Film on it in the Fall. I'll get photos up as soon as I figure out how.
My only regret is that it's not a V8, but I bought it anyway because of the condition.

 

[koda2000]

In order to post photos, you either have to become an Elite Explorer ($20 a year) or first upload them to something like PhotoBucket and copy/paste the IMG.

We had four V8's in the family (2000's and a 2001) and we love them. I just sold one off this past Saturday. We also still have 2 SOHC Ex's. I think I can safely say that the V8's, and their stronger transmissions, are the better choice for sure. When the SOHC in my '01 ST goes I may replace the engine only because I've put a ton of work into that truck and I really like the utility of it. Our other SOHC (a '97 Sport) was taken off the road this past weekend and may be on it's way to the scrap yard soon unless someone wants to pay more than scrap valve for it. It still runs and drives.

 

[CoalHeat]

Ah! Thanks. I wasn't sure. I don't use a photo hosting site right now. I'm a Moderator at another forum, I'm so used to the way that site operates, much different here. On the '98 I have replaced brake pads and shoes, rotors and drums, parking brake shoes (it didn't work at all, someone had taken it apart and I looked at the parts and there was no way it ever worked after the "repair". I found parts for the left side on the right side and visa-versa. Once I got everything installed correctly the parking brake actually works). Also replaced the tires, 3 door lock actuators, rear axle seals, bolted the rear transmission mount back to the trans (bolts fell out), replaced rear axle stabilizer, replaced both front hubs, installed rebuilt alternator, replaced both liftgate strut mounts (fitting the struts snap onto rusted and broke), replaced one fog lamp, new muffler and tailpipe sitting here waiting to go on. Also replaced rear sway bar bushings and front sway bar links, and repaired the trans cooler lines that rusted right up in the front and sprung a leak.
So obviously I'm keeping the truck!
It has the original Firestone spare, but it's not the version of the Wilderness tire that caused all the issues.
My buddy just sold his '97 XLT, he bought it new. Had 244,000 miles on it. I should have bought it, but I couldn't justify another addition to the fleet.

 

[CoalHeat]

Just a note to say I emerged from my "Coma Of Stupidity" today and realized the only right way to do this repair is to replace all the components, front and back of the engine. I have everything on order, just need to source the torque-to-yield bolts and find a rental or loaner timing tool set.

 

[koda2000]

Just a note to say I emerged from my "Coma Of Stupidity" today and realized the only right way to do this repair is to replace all the components, front and back of the engine. I have everything on order, just need to source the torque-to-yield bolts and find a rental or loaner timing tool set.

I agree that that is the best way to go about it. A lot of work though. Your journey would make a great thread. Best of luck with your project.

 

[CoalHeat]

I will post updates once the adventure begins.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Check white bear auto nation for OEM. They undercut Tasca on all the parts I ordered through them when I did mine. I had to get the primary jackshaft gear and all the TTY bolts, as well as a new oil pump when I did mine. Back then that stuff never came in the kit I ordered.

 

[CoalHeat]

Thanks for the info but I already ordered everything from Rock Auto. I sent for the Cloyes timing kit. I researched and saw a lot of much cheaper parts available, not worth taking chances in my opinion. I have seen to many cheap imported replacement parts fall apart. When I bought the truck it had an almost new muffler and tailpipe on it. The baffles in the muffler developed a really annoying rattle at idle and now the tailpipe rotted through just behind the muffler and is just going along for the ride now.

Forgot to mention I also have replaced the rear spring shackles, although I used the existing bushings. Also took a chance and ordered a made in Taiwan replacement grille, which actually is very nice and is an exact replacement.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Good choice. I went enginetech, at the time there were a few less choices. None of the kits came with the torque to yield bolts or the primary gear, and Rock auto didn't carry them at the time. They may now.

 

[CoalHeat]

No, they didn't list them. I hope I don't have to go to Ford for them. When I got the truck there was only one key. The second key with programming cost me $120 at the dealer. I don't even want to talk about what the liftgate strut upper mounting brackets cost me.

 

[CoalHeat]

Update:
I have all the parts now, except the oil pump which I realized should be replaced on general principals since I'll have it apart anyway. The hold up right now is my time and getting my hands on an OTC 6488 tool kit. I'm on a "waiting list" with an online rental outfit, who knows when I'll see that. If need be I'll have to buy one, in that case it will be for sale or rent afterwards.

 

[Tech By Trade]

did your kit come with bolts?

 

[CoalHeat]

No. I ordered them from an online Ford parts vendor.

 

[ducrnd]

I'm a new member, so bear with me please. I'm sure this had been discussed here 1000 times!
My '98 XLT has developed noisy chains, I'm familiar with the SOHC design. My first thought is to go with a Jasper replacement due to the mileage on the truck (189,500), but that is out of my price range right now. Before I pull the engine and replace all the chains and related parts I have been thinking about the tensioners. Reason being the left bank chain has been noisy on and off for a while. It was unusually quiet for a few days and suddenly today it's really noisy. Thinking the tensioner is bad or the oil flow is restricted in the passage where the nylon restricter is. Any advice is appreciated!!!

Yes 95% of the time it is the tensioner, you need to pull the motor and its on the left rear as you face the motor from the front. If yyou can do it Great. if not, I buy a new motor. it will cost around 2000 2500 to have someone do it. when they did mine, they didnt lock the valves and bent some then tried to say it was like that..I wish I bought a new engine. cause it leaks like a sive now from them. 227k on mine.

 

[FF_RSQExplorer]

I just picked up my timming chain rattle correction kit. AKA a new remanufactured FoMoCo long block with all FoMoCo parts with a no fault core and 4 yr unlimited warranty.

It comes with a new dampner new water pump, new lower intake and tstat housing, new manifolds, plugs, oil, filter, gasket kit and hardware. 3,000 bucks. The rest of the truck is 8 out of 10 with just 2 cig. Burns in the seat at a scratch or two. Its a 0 rust truck lived its life in central VA.

 

[CoalHeat]

The long block was my first idea, right now the cost is more then I can comfortably spend. It would be worth it since the truck is a keeper. It does have rust at the rear of the rockers on both sides, but it is minimal, has not spread up the dogleg or towards the front. Other then that it's in very good shape for an unrestored '98. The rear bumper is not rotted through, which is another common issue where salt is heavily used in winter.

I have Photobucket, but need quick instructions on posting the photos here please, I'm obviously doing something wrong because I haven't been able to post any.