Rear brake job today | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Rear brake job today

07EddyB

Explorer Addict
Joined
November 18, 2011
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City, State
Bowling Green, KY
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Ford Explorer 4.6 V8
The Explorer was at 96K and the rear brakes had never been done. The pads were getting pretty thin so I ordered everything to take care of it. When I say everything - I mean everything. New pads and rotors - and, as I would regret later, new parking brake shoes and hardware.
Understand - I've never had the rear rotors off before - they still had the assembly clips on them. I had never actually seen the parking brake setup before.

That was uhhhhh - interesting. Not the correct word but I don't want to offend any delicate ears.

Wow. I'm not a mechanic but I've done a lot of brake jobs over the years - including drum brakes.
That was a whole other level. Like a drum brake job in complete darkness with one hand tied behind your back.

Then again - as much as I suffered through the first side I cut my time for the other side down to a third.
Still needs a little work - parking brake is a little weak right now. It will hold on a slight hill but put it in drive and it will roll.
 



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I'm waiting for the snow to melt up before hitting this project on mine, Care to share any hints that will spare me aggravation?
 






I have had it apart number of times when doing the rear bearings. Yes, it's a PITA, but with proper tools it's not that bad. You need to crank it pretty high or you will not have the e brake. Once you put it together, you can't adjust it,
So, just get a good set of drum brake tools.
 






Yea, I just did the most ghetto brake job of my career, just to avoid taking off the rear rotors.
 






For my info I gather the e-brake has to come out and the springs are herculean grade springs?
 






Edwx, how ghetto was it? Probably no worse then the pad slap with a side order of sandpaper scuff on rotors I did a few years ago on mine.
 






Edwx, how ghetto was it? Probably no worse then the pad slap with a side order of sandpaper scuff on rotors I did a few years ago on mine.

hahaha lol......I think I'm still leading the ghetto award though. I only added pads to the right rear, with no sandpaper........just hoping the pads would wear off the rust :) So far so good. The other option was to pound off the rotors and totally remove the parking brake stuff.....no inspections here in GA. Sorry, didn't mean to side track the thread.
 






Well - things didn't go so well today. Pulled into the parking lot at work and as I slowed with the brakes on I started getting a knocking noise from the rear. The knock/thump was fairly pronounced and the interval matched the tire rotation - i.e. it was further apart as I slowed down. Went home for lunch and by the time I got close to the house it had started back up and was worse. Seems to be worse when it gets hot and only occurs with the brakes on.
I emailed the boss - car trouble - won't be back this afternoon. Put it in the garage and checked it out. Couldn't find anything. It appears to be mostly if not completely on the passenger side. I had trouble getting that rotor off originally so I took a wire brush to the rust on the hub - did that to both sides. Readjusted the parking brake on both sides - holding much better now. But everything seemed to be in order so back together and took a test drive. Didn't hear it once. Went ahead and came back in to work. About an 8 mile trip - it came back on the last stop light before I pulled in to work.
Going to give it some time for the pads to bed in. I'm thinking right now that I might have gotten a new warped rotor. If it continues I'll swap the rotors from side to side and see if the noise moves with it. If so, I'll order another rotor.
Man what a pain this is turning out to be.
 






Warped rotor does have a particular feel to it, more of a pulsing grab varying with pedal pressure. Sometimes you can see the contact area once it gets hot and is hit regularily by the pads. What kind of pads did you use. Ceramic, metallic or...
 






Wagner ThermoQuiet pads - I believe they are at least part ceramic. Along with Wagner rotors - didn't cheap out on any of the parts. Agreed with the pulsing of a warped rotor - that's less pronounced on the rear though. Stops seem pretty smooth but it's tough to single out a warped rotor on the rear unless it's pretty bad.
 






Should not happen especially with a name brand rotor. I have had good luck in other vehicle with non brand named rotors so far. Non warped so far. New set on all 4 on the 02 Ex early winter as they were all in poor shape.
 






Found a temporary solution on the way home from work.
Stereo volume set to 10. Not even that loud but I don't hear it anymore :laugh:
 






hahaha lol......I think I'm still leading the ghetto award though. I only added pads to the right rear, with no sandpaper........just hoping the pads would wear off the rust :) So far so good. The other option was to pound off the rotors and totally remove the parking brake stuff.....no inspections here in GA. Sorry, didn't mean to side track the thread.

Still i think I've got you beat! Many of my trucks at work are Ford F5 50 and F4 50 Duallys. One of them had a bad rear rotor on the inside from waiting too long to do the breaks.
Boss did not want to pull the rear rotor off because on those trucks do you have to then mess with axle seals and it can be a real pain in the ass, so that pad would scrape on the rough road or surface and wear out way faster than the other three rear pads. Since these trucks use the same brake pad front and rear we started saving the best used pads from the other trucks brake jobs, and every other oil change we would replace just the one pad on the rear driver side of the 550!
 






I've done the parking brake shoes once. It was a major PITA, and I've done more regular drum brake jobs over the years than I care to count. If I ever have to do it again I'll pull the axles first. To get the parking brake to work well you need to adjust the shoes out until they''re really tight against the rotor drum. Then back them off a little.
 






There is a pretty fine line on the parking brake adjustment between rubbing the rotor and actually being effective. After readjusting yesterday I could set the parking brake about half way in drive and it would barely roll. I'm good with that.
So, an update this morning. Noise was present from my first stop. Dropped the oldest off at school - lots of stop and go traffic involved - noise present. Hit the interstate for about 6 miles and once I got off no noise on several stops. So - basically the opposite of yesterday.
 






Sounds like something is wearing IN.... But I never heard or seen that as necessary for brakes. Beeding for merging with the rotor and pads yes but that doesn't generate noise.

Hmm, You said Thermo-Quiet right. Sure they sent the right ones. LOL
 






I used some cheap rotors and pads from ebay in the past. I once got a deal for 2 front rotors and pads for $ 89 including shipping. All worked and no vibration or anything so even the cheap rotors should be ok at start.

What you are describing is the rear bearing going bad. When that happens the parking brake that has a fixed position on the rear knuckle starts rubbing against the inner drum since that has a play due to bad bearing. Can you grab the rear wheel and see if it has any play ?
 






Funny you say that - the same thought has been running around in my mostly empty mind lately. I have thought for several months now that I have a bad bearing - I think it is on that axle. The rotor was also rusted to that axle which required the application of some PB Blaster and some love taps with a hammer. I wasn't wailing away at it but additional damage could have been done to an already failing bearing.
I'll check for play in the wheel. As much as I hate to say it, if it is a rear bearing I'll likely take it in to have it done. I don't have a press and don't want to be without the vehicle if it turns into an extended repair.
 






If it's the bearing, you can get few more miles out of it by tightening the 35 mm nut on the axle.
 



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I've heard that - don't understand it but I've heard it before. I have an impact and a 35mm socket. It can definitely be done. Just how much tightening are we talking here? What you you set a torque wrench at above the normal 184 (? - I believe that's the front torque - haven't looked up the rear)? Or just bump it with the gun.
 






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