ISO recommendations for upgraded parts for multiple repairs

[namuwilliams]

Do any of these repairs have upgrades I can order? I'd like to use better quality parts rather than just whatever the mechanic shop would purchase, unless the consensus is that whatever they order is going to be as good as anything I could find:

- upper control arms (both sides)
- right side inner tie rod
- front lower ball joints
- shocks (I'd like a comfortable ride, but willing to sacrifice some comfort for better stability)

Also, shocks-related. In reading online, I saw some mention of a third shock on my year Explorer? Do they all need replacing? I couldn't see a definitive yes or no on that one.

Thanks!

 

[toypaseo]

As for the third shock, I would replace it with the mileage you have. They are not expensive. Easy DIY also.

I got a KYB one for $26.39 total delivered. Mine had a nice dent it it from my Gibson exhaust. It was not leaking. Was it still good Can I tell a difference I think it is now also dented like my OEM one though

 

[namuwilliams]

Almost nothing is an "easy DIY" for me, lol. No tools, no experience and no place to work on my truck. But thanks for the recommendation! I'll definitely replace it when I replace the other two.

 

[toypaseo]

I don't have much mechanic experience either, but I have done the shocks and the third shock myself. Lots of info available on here on how to do them. The third shock was the easiest since it really only required tools for removal and installation.

 

[SupaSwope]

Coming from someone who a little over a year ago didn't know much more then changing a tire. You can do it. Just learn and apply yourself. Tools you don't need much. A small craftsman box set will get you started with repairs. I work in the dirt at my house because I don't have a driveway and never had more then the stock jack for the longest time. Check out this guy on youtube called ChrisFix. Between him and this website I have learned how to rebuild the entire suspension and brake system and change every fluid on my vehicle. You can do it man. trust me.

 

[CDW6212R]

I suggest the Moog control arms in front, the uppers they have an upgrade part also. I just bought all four recently to do my 153k 99 Explorer. The bushings are usually bad at this age or mileage. The uppers were under $60 each, the lowers almost double that. Rock Auto is almost always the most feasible way to buy them.

The tie rods aren't high stress parts unless you go off road or hit curbs a lot. Say with the better brands for the TRE's.

The fifth shock should be replaced, it helps to reduce the movement of the back end, in turns. The stiffer fifth shocks will be noticeable upgrades for street trucks driven hard. You will know it helps in turns. The cheaper brands will not have much resistance to compression, and those are simple to install.

The best fifth shocks will be very stiff, and very hard to install. Those have to be compressed before you attach the second end bolt. I put on Bilstein's, and that fifth shock I put the included strap back on to hold it compressed, until I had one end in, and good leverage to slowly release the shock and line up the other bolt hole.

 

[namuwilliams]

Check out this guy on youtube called ChrisFix. Between him and this website I have learned how to rebuild the entire suspension and brake system and change every fluid on my vehicle. You can do it man. trust me.

I've been subscribed to ChrisFix for a few months now - I've got too many things going on in my life right now to add "armchair mechanic" to the list, but I definitely plan on learning to do more, eventually.

The fifth shock should be replaced, it helps to reduce the movement of the back end, in turns. The stiffer fifth shocks will be noticeable upgrades for street trucks driven hard.

Wait, I thought my Explorer had three shocks and two leaf springs? So it has five shocks?

Thank you all, for the replies!

 

[XLTrunner]

I understand having a busy life...but, when you see the quote from your mechanic to replace these parts, you'll gain a new perspective on trying to do as many repairs as possible yourself. And, yes...(2) shocks up front, (2) shocks in the rear and (1) stabilizer shock.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, I figured you meant the 3rd of the rear three, which is mounted at an angle left to right above the rearend.

The shocks are things most people can figure out how to change, the control arms require more tools and skills than most beginners have. You can learn how to do it, but those take more patience and thought, besides the larger number of tools to do. Remember that unbolting the upper control arms will require a new alignment, the TRE's too most likely.

 

[Equine Explorer]

Recently helped my husband change the upper ball joint on his 97 XLT. It is definitely feasible to do in the yard or driveway. Pick up a pair of jack stands, sometimes on sale at auto zone, advance, or even harbor freight. If you have your stock bottle jack, great. If not, we picked up a floor jack at advance on clearance for around 70$.

Upper ball joint was, ummmm, painful. .. only bc it was rusted in bad bad bad. I sprayed the bolts and joint itself down with liquid wrench twice, a week before the job and a day before. If yours are rusty, I recommend having a tie rod separator on hand. Fairly inexpensive at harbor freight.



As far as upgraded brands, we got Detroit axle parts off eBay with 10 year warranty pretty good priced compared to both rock auto and advance. We like to stick with either of those if we can afford it.

Good luck, keep us posted on the adventures!

 

[namuwilliams]

Super easy, except I don't have a yard or a driveway, I don't have jackstands or bottle jack, I just moved to the area so I don't have a network to borrow tools from and I don't have a tie rod separator or liquid wrench or any experience working on trucks, soooo....not so easy as it might be for most, lol. Thanks for the suggestions, though! I'll definitely start wrenching on my own at some point in the relatively near future, but now is not that time!

 

[toypaseo]

@namuwilliams, keep in mind that many auto parts stores have a "Loan-A-Tool" program. Put down a deposit for a tool, get it back when you return it within a specified time. I have done that in the past torque wrenches, and a puller to use on a steering wheel.

 

[CDW6212R]

The loaner programs still work, but they have raised their prices very high, to more than the cost of the tools. I recently rented tools three times for a job on my sister's Jeep. The first tools were two pickle forks, a Pittman arm puller, and two sockets. Those were $75 or so, and only one pickle fork was used. The BJ press was about $115 plus tax to rent, and another Pittman arm tool kit from Advance was over $120 plus tax. I used a CC but it's still a lot to spend up front. I remember when the costs were maybe 50% or so of the tool's value. Obviously a lot of people have taken advantage of those costs. But I only rent tools I do not want to own, or store someplace. Now at my age I might like to have a couple of things I've rented a few times, like the Pittman arm puller. Those are tricky to acquire in the proper size needed, and some do not do the job. You don't want to buy a tool that you cannot use later one past the return period.

 

[Equine Explorer]

@namuwilliams oh dear I didn't realize you were that limited. Maybe order your parts and find a local mechanic that is willing to use your own parts, that way you only pay labor?

 

[CDW6212R]

For the OP @namuwilliams, your transmission should be your top priority. The other items are trivial compared to the trans going out.

For that mileage, it's time for a rebuilt transmission. But if you drive it until it stops moving, the time from when it begins being noticeable(the slipping gets bad) until it stops, that is described as burning up a trans. That period of driving is what ruins a trans, forever. After that the success rate of rebuilding it is well under 50%.

If you rebuild a trans before it gets burned up, which means internally tons of debris is spread throughout and does unseen damage to VB components, the success rate is 90% or better. That means if you do it while the trans works okay and the fluid isn't black, it should work like new for another 200k miles. If you wait until it burns up, rebuilds may last a year, two tops, or it may only go weeks or months before failing again.

There are things you could do. I would change the fluid first, new Mercon V and a filter, draining the torque converter too. That should take nine quarts or so, total is 12+ when the valve body is loosened(which holds the rest up above it).

Mileage doesn't kill a trans, it's virtually always the wear of certain serviceable parts in the VB or case. You could pay someone to install new solenoids and accumulators, and a few special Sonnax parts, but the trick there is the person doing the work. It's critical to have someone familiar with that trans(4R70W) do the work, so no mistakes are made. Most shops won't touch a trans as a small job like that. The labor is 2-3 hours for them, and they'd make very little compared to a full rebuild. Thus they absolutely always insist on a full rebuild, so they get to charge you $2000 etc. Plus the rebuild doesn't include any of the Sonnax parts or any shift improvement items(parts or labor).

But 95% of all older vehicles need only those things which the trans shop doesn't do in a normal rebuild. They are after the profit only, they don't care about you a bit, and if they say otherwise, they are lying to you. The hard parts which they replace included in a rebuild, those run under $200, and will last indefinitely if the VB/solenoids/accumulators are kept working efficiently.

My current 98 truck has a slow 1/2 shift that I do not like, that is a slightly slipping shift that will ruin the trans sooner or later. I have not had time to service the trans as I'd like, I have only changed the fluid and filter, plus a deeper pan. I have the parts needed to replace what I mentioned, and it is easily a 4-5 hour job for a non professional. It's on my wish list of soon to do items.

 

[namuwilliams]

For the OP @namuwilliams, your transmission should be your top priority. The other items are trivial compared to the trans going out.

For that mileage, it's time for a rebuilt transmission. But if you drive it until it stops moving, the time from when it begins being noticeable(the slipping gets bad) until it stops, that is described as burning up a trans. That period of driving is what ruins a trans, forever. After that the success rate of rebuilding it is well under 50%..

Don, thanks a lot for this info! I think I've noticed my trans slipping, but it's so slight and rare an occurrence that I'm not sure yet. Question, though - if it's around $2,000 to have a transmission rebuilt, why not just buy a new one? (is there such thing? maybe factory rebuilt?)

 

[CDW6212R]

You can buy remanufactured units from a few sources, and they will be close to the same price range. Those should be a little higher level of build quality, part of that being special test equipment that they should be using to verify functions and fluid pressures. Those are a better choice, yes, but the labor to R&R a trans is most of the cost from a trans shop. Some shops will bench build a trans for you, which you bring to them. The amount less to build one that way versus them doing the whole job, will be $1000+ for sure. Taking a trans out and reinstalling it is the biggest labor, and they charge high rates for that.

That's why I suggested finding someone would could and would do just the in vehicle upgrades. Those are most important for trans without significant hard parts wear, and the labor time is less than a half day, give or take depending on who's doing it. You might do well to check around, some cities will have good sources for that kind of special labor, some will have no one that will touch a VB or the other little items.