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2002 Ford Explorer has a Ghost in it

lmarkie74

Active Member
Joined
April 30, 2017
Messages
70
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2
City, State
Morganton
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013, Ford Explorer, XLS
While sitting at idle, the door locks unlock and keep trying to unlock. If I lock them back, within a second, they unlock. Driving down the road they don't unlock. Guess the Ghost enjoys the ride.

Also, dome light stays on when I first enter the car after a few hours. The light goes out after I reach 10 mphs. When I get to my destination the light will not come back on. I can open up the door at anytime the car is running and the "door ajar" instrument cluster light doesn't come on. I had a speedometer shop check the IC out. All of the LED's work. The battery saver circuit eventually cuts the light off.if I just open the door and don't drive off.

Where to start?
 



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the black boot on the driver side door hing, inside that boot you will find broken wires more then likely..
 






the black boot on the driver side door hing, inside that boot you will find broken wires more then likely..

I have previously removed the drivers door panel and pulled the wire boot off and looked at the wiring. I saw one single Yellow/Black wire that had 2 cuts in the insulation, but not broken. I re taped the wire. Nothing fixed. Didn't see any other bad wires.

I'll have to do it again and pull some of the tape back and see if I can find anything. Visually everything looks find. I may have missed something.
 






push the boot in the door dont cut it ..pull on each wire from both ends as close to the door and body as you can reach if it stetches its broke, and can be touching every now and then..i had a large black wire broke and a small yellow and pink wire..the first time i went in there..
 






push the boot in the door dont cut it ..pull on each wire from both ends as close to the door and body as you can reach if it stetches its broke, and can be touching every now and then..i had a large black wire broke and a small yellow and pink wire..the first time i went in there..

Good point. The wire can be broken inside the insulation and when it is not stretched, could be momentarily contacting.
 






The wires are the more likely cause, but I had similar symptoms from a bad door switch. Mine was the passenger side, and it was expensive. I just tied the wires together to make it think the door was closed all the time, and the craziness stopped.
 






the door ajar light on my 02 mountaineer comes on every now and then the lights inside the truck stay on, so i spray WD40 on the latches of the doors and it worked every time so far..
 






I second checking the latches. The door ajar switch is under the latch and they will get stuck causing your doors to unlock and light to stay on.
 






Dont be shy with the WD40 spray a liberal amount open and close the door several time and it works, I just do all the doors now but it seems to be my drivers side rear door that stickes...
 






push the boot in the door don't cut it ..pull on each wire from both ends as close to the door and body as you can reach if it stetches its broke, and can be touching every now and then..i had a large black wire broke and a small yellow and pink wire..the first time i went in there..

Spent 2 hours last night checking out the wiring at the driver's side door from the door to the body. I removed the door panel and speaker so I could get a cleaner look. I inspected and pulled the wiring thoroughly and carefully. In fact, I did it twice just to make sure I didn't miss anything.

No shorted or broken wires. This is so frustrating.

I am wondering.......my problem is more logic, I think, than just straight wiring. I've discovered something new since my first post. When you reach a certain mph the doors are suppose to lock. This doesn't happen. If I cycle the door open close switch several times, the switch stops working. If I wait a few minutes, the door open close switch lets me cycle open and close several times and then again, nothing. Dome light goes out after I reach 10mph. Suppose to cut off when I start the ignition. At least my F-150 does.

Remote turns off dome light and locks car just fine. Remote turns on dome light and unlocks care just fine. Mitchell shows a drawing schematic of a GEM module (also called BCM module) and a schematic Vehicle Security Module. With ForScan, it only reads these modules:

(OK) [06:59:25.392] OBDII - On Board Diagnostic II
(OK) [06:59:27.935] IC - Instrument Cluster
(OK) [06:59:28.506] PCM - Powertrain Control Module
(OK) [06:59:30.372] RCM - Restraint Control Module
(OK) [06:59:31.772] ABS - Antilock braking system

Door locks, dome light, etc. use to be included in the Vehicle Security Module. Now if guess they are included in the PCM.

Next step is to check the door switchs. Where can I find the right wiring diagram?
 






ok im sorry this was not your issue...there is a way you can turn on auto locks, in my 02 mountaineer owners guide its on page 111 if you have one you can turn this option on or off .....how old is you battery?
 






this is the procedure.
.1 turn key to the on position.
2. press the power door unlock control 3 times
3.turn the key to off position
4. press the power unlock control 3 times
5.turn the key to the on position. the horn will chirp
6. press the unlock control then the lock control. the horn will chirp once if autolock was deactivated or twice, one short beep and one long beep if activated
7. turn the key off and the horn will chirp once to confirm the procedure is complete
the first 5 steps must be done in 30 seconds or less
 






check your battery voltage with the key off and the key on..these trucks are very battery sensitive even if the battery starts the truck it may not hold enough voltage to operate properly...mine is at 12.5 key off 12.2 key on, my battery is about 3 years old..
 






also, the switch doesnt just Stop working. The computer stops listening to you in case there is a wiring fault and so that you dont burn out the solenoids in the doors. They all do this. Normal operation.
 






Good point. The wire can be broken inside the insulation and when it is not stretched, could be momentarily contacting.
I had this happen on my ranger... just saw the two little cracks, but when I cut and stripped the insulation, it was corroded for at least an inch.
 






I had this happen on my ranger... just saw the two little cracks, but when I cut and stripped the insulation, it was corroded for at least an inch.

I did the same. I cut about and 1" out and spliced it back with a piece of wire. Didn't fix it.
 






I did the same. I cut about and 1" out and spliced it back with a piece of wire. Didn't fix it.
Did you check all 4 doors and both sections of the liftgate?
 






Did you check all 4 doors and both sections of the liftgate?

Pulled all the door boots back tonight and did a look at all the wires. Didn't see anything broke. Will look again tomorrow.
 






Might have figured out my problem. Noticed that when you open the passenger side door, the dome light does not come on. All the rest do. Spray the penetrating oil. I'll be removing the door jamb switch and seeing what is going on. May have to replace the switch. Those dang things are expensive! $25. There goes my beer money. LOL!
 



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