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Transmission filter change on a 4x4

mfitz725

03 EB 4x4 4.6l making it thru in NC
Joined
August 1, 2007
Messages
204
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Location
Albemarle NC
City, State
Albemarle NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
'03 Eddie Bauer 4.6L 4x4
I am planning on dropping the tranny pan and replacing the filter on my 99 Limited 4.0LSOHC 4x4. I was wondering if there is anything I need to know special about accessing the pan that is much different from 2wd version. I saw in one thread it was suggested to disconnect the drive shaft. The 1aAuto help video seems to make the process fairly simple but it does not indicate whether it is a 2wd or 4wd. Any help I can get trying to understand what I need to do to complete this process would be appreciated. I had planned to use my ramps to elevate the vehicle but I am completely unsure of what it might take to disconnect the drive shafts. I was hoping to just elevate the vehicle and drop the pan. I have not been under the vehicle as of yet so just don't know what to expect in order to get access to the pan. Any help you can provide will be appreciated.
 



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I'm planning this on my '98 XLT SOHC 4WD. Crawling under mine, it's not the drive shaft that gets in the way...it's the cat convertor. Don't think it will be a real hindrance as it's mostly just the right half of the pan that's somewhat impeded. Looks like the pan will drop about an inch before hitting it, though. Don't know if this is the same as on your '99...but, I'd be surprised if they weren't the same.
 






I'm planning this on my '98 XLT SOHC 4WD. Crawling under mine, it's not the drive shaft that gets in the way...it's the cat convertor. Don't think it will be a real hindrance as it's mostly just the right half of the pan that's somewhat impeded. Looks like the pan will drop about an inch before hitting it, though. Don't know if this is the same as on your '99...but, I'd be surprised if they weren't the same.
Thanks, that at least gives me an idea of what to expect.
 






I'm planning this on my '98 XLT SOHC 4WD. Crawling under mine, it's not the drive shaft that gets in the way...it's the cat convertor. Don't think it will be a real hindrance as it's mostly just the right half of the pan that's somewhat impeded. Looks like the pan will drop about an inch before hitting it, though. Don't know if this is the same as on your '99...but, I'd be surprised if they weren't the same.
Well I just took a look under mine and it looks like the cats not impeding, it's flat out in the way. It's gonna have to come off to get to one bolt for sure. The others might work out using a universal on the socket wrench but that one front one is a no go without a cat removal.
 






The cat has to come out, which will be the biggest headache. Start by spraying the cat collector bolts(the rear two also) with penetrant, well before trying to loosen them. The longer it can work to penetrate, the better chance of the bolts coming loose, without breaking.

The trans pan has to drop straight down a couple of inches, to clear the VB inside. Good luck with the cat bolts.
 






The cat has to come out, which will be the biggest headache. Start by spraying the cat collector bolts(the rear two also) with penetrant, well before trying to loosen them. The longer it can work to penetrate, the better chance of the bolts coming loose, without breaking.

The trans pan has to drop straight down a couple of inches, to clear the VB inside. Good luck with the cat bolts.

Damn...I was wondering if only dropping it an inch or so would allow it to clear so as to be able to slide it out to the side. Guess I'll be spraying the bolts and hoping for the best. Can I assume there are no "donuts" or gaskets at either connection that will need to be replaced?
 






The cat has to come out, which will be the biggest headache. Start by spraying the cat collector bolts(the rear two also) with penetrant, well before trying to loosen them. The longer it can work to penetrate, the better chance of the bolts coming loose, without breaking.

The trans pan has to drop straight down a couple of inches, to clear the VB inside. Good luck with the cat bolts.
I've already sprayed them and am just hoping for the best. I've never had to pull exhaust components before so I enter this with a little trepidation. The 1aauto help video on doing this job is on a 98 with no cat in the way at all. My hopes were way out of proportion. Lol This really breaks my heart.
 






Having grown up in the Midwest, the few times I even wanted to mess with the rusty exhausts we are forced to live with usually required I enlist the use of a sawzall. Fortunately, this truck of mine came from AZ about 5 yrs ago and it's pretty clean under there. Guess I'll find out...
 






There is no "gasket" at the front collector, and not the back either as I recall.

Draining the ATF is messy, and bringing the trans pan down slowly at the back is the best way to do it. Leave the front bolts in place and rear corners in, remove the rest. Remove the fronts besides the corners, and just loosen the rear two. Gently pry the pan around the edge at the back or sides near the back. You want to have the ATF slowly(controlled) drain from the perimeter at the back as much as possible. Slowly back out the rear corner bolts, not completely out. Loosen the front two, then hold the pan with one hand, and remove the rear two. That lets you control how fast the ATF pours out, into a large drain pan bigger than the trans(about 16x24" is good). When you have most of the fluid out of the pan, it;s lighter and you can then hold it up whole removing the last two bolts, and easily lower the pan, and out. That can't work with the exhaust under the pan at all.

I did see a slick repair device made for reattaching collectors with broken bolts. Amazon had it, a clamp basically which attaches to the upper and lower corner of a collector joint, going over the spot where a bolt is broken off. I can find a link later if needed, it may be in one of my wish lists.
 






There is no "gasket" at the front collector, and not the back either as I recall.

I did see a slick repair device made for reattaching collectors with broken bolts. Amazon had it, a clamp basically which attaches to the upper and lower corner of a collector joint, going over the spot where a bolt is broken off. I can find a link later if needed, it may be in one of my wish lists.
I hate to sound stupid but I'm not familiar with the part your calling a collector.
 






The collector is the large joint where the exhaust manifold meets the down pipe. The joints rearward to that are similar in design, called a ball/socket type of connection. They work very well, but for the awful bolts which like to seize up tight, and break.
 






You don't do anything with the exhaust/cat, the pan will come out. I know because I've done this on a 98 4.0L sohc xlt 4x4.
 






You don't do anything with the exhaust, the pan will come out. I know because I've done this on a 98 sohc xlt.
I don't see how that's possible. The cat obstructs one bolt on the front drivers side and there is no way to get to it without moving the cat, at least it's that way on my 99 4x4.
 






If it's the stock setup where it's true dual exhaust into the muffler and a single out, then you don't have to remove anything to do with the exhaust.
The heatshield on the side of the transmission is really the only thing you need to remove.
It's tight in there but it's possible.

If you want to take your exhaust apart then hey... go for it :)
 






If it's the stock setup where it's true dual exhaust into the muffler and a single out, then you don't have to remove anything to do with the exhaust.
The heatshield on the side of the transmission is really the only thing you need to remove.
It's tight in there but it's possible.

If you want to take your exhaust apart then hey... go for it :)
Want to take it apart you've got to be kidding. I just didn't see any other way to get around it. I didn't think a socket would fit in the space that's there but if you say it can work I'll surely try before disassembling anything else.
 






Don't let that 1 little bolt stop you, you can do it.
Can't get a socket on it? Try a wrench.

I did mine a few years ago, and since then a thread had popped up asking this exact same question and I gave this exact same advice and it worked out for them and I was thanked..yadda yadda.
The only thing I can't remember is if I took the front driveshaft out or not...I don't think I did.
Anyway, my whole point is that you don't need to remove anything exhaust related to drop the transmission oil pan. (I serviced my valve body when I did mine)
When you do get the pan loose, you have to tilt it to get it out.. quite spilly.

Good luck with it.
 






Don't let that 1 little bolt stop you, you can do it.
Can't get a socket on it? Try a wrench.

I did mine a few years ago, and since then a thread had popped up asking this exact same question and I gave this exact same advice and it worked out for them and I was thanked..yadda yadda.

When you do get the pan loose, you have to tilt it to get it out.. quite spilly.

Good luck with it.
Well I did buy a concrete mixing pan thinking that would be big enough to catch it all. We'll see how it works out. Thanks for the input.
 






No prob, you'll get it figured out, good luck.
Let us know how it went.

I'd say have fun.....but it's not fun.
 






I cut a few inches off of the transmission overflow tube to gain some clearance for removing the pan. I did take off the heat shield and I don't recall having issues with any of the bolts on mine.
 



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I cut a few inches off of the transmission overflow tube to gain some clearance for removing the pan. I did take off the heat shield and I don't recall having issues with any of the bolts on mine.
Well it's certainly nothing like the video 1aauto has on YouTube with a 98 exp. I'll get in there and give it a go tomorrow and see how I make out.
 






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