Transmission filter change on a 4x4

[Spuddy]

I remember now. The trick is to drop that front drive shaft out of the way.

 

[XLTrunner]

That confuses me as I just crawled under my truck again and the front drive shaft doesn't even come into play...unless, it has to be removed to slide the pan sideways to clear the cat convertor when dropping it? But, that can't happen because the vent tube is in the way. Again...a stock '98 XLT SOHC. It does look like the front of the pan can drop maybe as much as 2"...but, the back of the pan only maybe 1". Don't know if that is enough to clear the throttle body to slide it out.

 

[mfitz725]

I agree, I don't see where the drveshaft comes into play at all for the same reasons.

 

[Spuddy]

My bad... I forgot to post back earlier today, after I had another look. Nah, it didn't have to come off for the tranny pan. Must have been for the LCA's... It's all a blur.

I did find the section that I cut off of the overflow tube (still on my work bench 3 years later). It's about 6 inches tall and I cut it just above the second bend from the bottom.

Then, I think you can slide the pan out toward the driver's side... Or, maybe, the rear drive shaft needs to be unbolted from the t-case and moved aside to allow clearance?

I'll have another look at it in the morning...

 

[Robman]

I just bent the tube a bit to get enough clearance, didn't hurt anything.

 

[mfitz725]

Don't let that 1 little bolt stop you, you can do it.
Can't get a socket on it? Try a wrench.

I did mine a few years ago, and since then a thread had popped up asking this exact same question and I gave this exact same advice and it worked out for them and I was thanked..yadda yadda.
The only thing I can't remember is if I took the front driveshaft out or not...I don't think I did.
Anyway, my whole point is that you don't need to remove anything exhaust related to drop the transmission oil pan. (I serviced my valve body when I did mine)
When you do get the pan loose, you have to tilt it to get it out.. quite spilly.

Good luck with it.

Question about the drveshaft if I have to take it loose since I've never done it before. I've got the vehicle up on ramps. Will that work? Or does it have to be on jack stands so the wheels will rotate. I know you're supposed to mark the shaft to put it back in the same place but don't know about how it moves related to the rest of the components.

 

[Robman]

Question about the drveshaft if I have to take it loose since I've never done it before. I've got the vehicle up on ramps. Will that work? Or does it have to be on jack stands so the wheels will rotate. I know you're supposed to mark the shaft to put it back in the same place but don't know about how it moves related to the rest of the components.

If I did do anything with the front driveshaft, I only unbolted the shaft from the front differential and swung it out of the way. If you do need to unbolt the front driveshaft, marking it may be an idea, I never did.

 

[Spuddy]

Your truck needs to be in neutral so the driveshaft won't bind up. You'll need the chock the back wheels for your ramps. Yes, index - scratch a fat line with anything.

I'm a rookie and then I say it's Easy. No big deal.

Me, I even dropped the valve body to replace my suspected blown upper gasket (it was) and serviced other forum recommended components. She shifts like a dream now.

Thanks and praise to the Forum.

Check out the dairy of the 5R55E (my link) for more information on this transmission.

I went in because I was certain my tranny was shot because I had :
"No Engine Braking In Manual 1st."

'Twas just a freaking bad gasket.

 

[Spuddy]

PS...

You can Swap all your fluid out by disconnecting the cooler lines and flushing it with 15 quarts of ATF, if that's what you're looking to do and you have no symptoms.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/tranny-flush-question.77507/

No ATF shower required.

 

[mfitz725]

Don't let that 1 little bolt stop you, you can do it.
Can't get a socket on it? Try a wrench.

I did mine a few years ago, and since then a thread had popped up asking this exact same question and I gave this exact same advice and it worked out for them and I was thanked..yadda yadda.
The only thing I can't remember is if I took the front driveshaft out or not...I don't think I did.
Anyway, my whole point is that you don't need to remove anything exhaust related to drop the transmission oil pan. (I serviced my valve body when I did mine)
When you do get the pan loose, you have to tilt it to get it out.. quite spilly.

Good luck with it.

Question about the drveshaft if I have to take it loose since I've never done it before. I've got the vehicle up on ramps. Will that work? Or does it have to be on jack stands so the wheels will rotate. I know you're supposed to mark the shaft to put it back in the same place but don't know about how it moves related to the rest of the components.

PS...

You can Swap all your fluid out by disconnecting the cooler lines and flushing it with 15 quarts of ATF, if that's what you're looking to do and you have no symptoms.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/tranny-flush-question.77507/

No ATF shower required.

No I'm looking to change the filter.

 

[mfitz725]

Your truck needs to be in neutral so the driveshaft won't bind up. You'll need the chock the back wheels for your ramps. Yes, index - scratch a fat line with anything.

I'm a rookie and then I say it's Easy. No big deal.

Me, I even dropped the valve body to replace my suspected blown upper gasket (it was) and serviced other forum recommended components. She shifts like a dream now.

Thanks and praise to the Forum.

Check out the dairy of the 5R55E (my link) for more information on this transmission.

I went in because I was certain my tranny was shot because I had :
"No Engine Braking In Manual 1st."

'Twas just a freaking bad gasket.

When I put it in neutral the shaft only rotates a small part of a turn. Is this normal or should it rotate more. I put a large screwdriver thru it to try and rotate the torx bolts down and can't get it to turn.

 

[Spuddy]

Yup, normal. Your rear drive shaft is connected to your rear wheels which are currently on the ground, so, no, I would not expect you to be able to rotate the drive shaft.

There should be plenty of room down there to get to all of those bolts without turning the shaft.

If your vehicle was in park, you would have torque on the drive shaft due to the parking brake (located inside the transmission) trying to keep the rear wheels from turning - think about that clunk you feel when pulling her out of park on a hill.

You should set your emergency brake, which acts directly on the rear wheels.

 

[mfitz725]

Yup, normal. Your rear drive shaft is connected to your rear wheels which are currently on the ground, so, no, I would not expect you to be able to rotate the drive shaft.

There should be plenty of room down there to get to all of those bolts without turning the shaft.

If your vehicle was in park, you would have torque on the drive shaft due to the parking brake (located inside the transmission) trying to keep the rear wheels from turning - think about that clunk you feel when pulling her out of park on a hill.

You should set your emergency brake, which acts directly on the rear wheels.

Let's not go into the emergency brake situation as it does nothing. That's my next project. I don't know if it just needs adjustment or new shoes. I now the cable on the drivers side is intact. I'll check the other one out before I take it off the ramps for this job.

 

[mfitz725]

Well the job is almost done. Snaking the pan out was one thing, getting it back in with the gasket on it was quite the challenge. I'm trying to get all the holes and bolts lined up now so I can finish today (started yesterday afternoon). Didn't expect to take so long but I would get frustrated and just walk away from every once in a while which is why all the bolts weren't in last night. Obviously you can't torque them all to specs so some will be best guess. Did have to take the front driveshaft loose and bend back that vent or over flow tube. Overall was more of a bear than I imagined but will be prepared for it next time which is I believe in 30k. Thanks for everyone's input. It really helped a lot.

 

[XLTrunner]

Sounds like a complete p.i.t.a. for just a fluid/filter change. So, which end of the driveshaft did you loosen...the rear?

 

[mfitz725]

Sounds like a complete p.i.t.a. for just a fluid/filter change. So, which end of the driveshaft did you loosen...the rear?

No, took it loose on the front end and just swung it up out of the way. Yes it was kinda a pita but a lot cheaper than quotes I had gotten to have it done. ($240-360). Plus like I said if I got frustrated I'd walk away from it for a few minutes which didn't help getting it done any sooner. I know some people have more patience to work things through and can stay steady at a job like this. I'm not one of those people.

I am also very glad I got the big concrete mixing pan ($6 at home depot) to use as a catch pan. It saved a whole lot of mess. I also put down a sheet of plastic underneath that which protected the driveway even further from the residual dripping. I read somewhere on here to cover the cat with tin foil to avoid smelling it burn off afterwards. Another good idea as it got drenched when I pulled the filter off. That will save you the reminder of the pita it was while the fluid burns off lol.

 

[XLTrunner]

Good information! Was actually considering taking it in to have it done to avoid the hassle/mess. But, if shops are quoting that kind of money, I'll take it on.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I wouldn't bother dropping the pan in 30k just to change the filter. Doesn't seem worth it to me. It's doubtful your filter would take on enough debris to be worth it. If you want to service it in 30k, I'd do a home flush. That way you'll have a fairly fresh filter, and all new fluid.

 

[mfitz725]

I wouldn't bother dropping the pan in 30k just to change the filter. Doesn't seem worth it to me. It's doubtful your filter would take on enough debris to be worth it. If you want to service it in 30k, I'd do a home flush. That way you'll have a fairly fresh filter, and all new fluid.

I pull a trailer some and thought that was the interval if you did. I'm not sure this had ever been done before on this vehicle as it appeared to be the original gasket plus there was a heavy layer of gunk in the bottom of the pan. It's a new vehicle to me that's why I'm getting everything changed as it had no records even though I appear to be the second owner. I know it's a marketing scam but on the filter kit box Fram recommends a 15k interval if you tow anything.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I'd be more concerned with the 12 quarts of old fluid, but it surely doesn't hurt to change the filter more. If you replace it again, I'd consider a better filter brand. Most people have nothing nice to say about Fram filters.