Sway bar quick disconnect? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Sway bar quick disconnect?

bigred4x4

Off-road enthusiast
Elite Explorer
Joined
October 6, 2008
Messages
755
Reaction score
84
Location
Va
City, State
chesapeake virginia
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 xlt 4x4
Ok was thinKing about modifying the replacement end links I just put in so I can disconnect the front sway bar without tools and also replacing bolts with hitch pins on the rear sway bar to disconnect it as well the front sway bar I'll disconnect for off-road use only, to smooth out my ride on the beach and get more articulation on the mountain trails, the rear sway bar I'll probably only disconnect for the slow paced technical trails along with the front. ...... so basically I have two questions ......#1 is the offroad performance gain worth the hassle and #2 what do you with the sway bars when there disconnected ? Install hangers? I have seen lots of pictures but none with hangers or a solution to secure the loose sway bar!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





when mine was at that level, i drilled them out for pins, and yes it helped. for securing the sway bar i used cut down ratchet straps. I just tossed the rear and did the front.
 






On the front axle, you need all the help you can get, so yes it's worth it. It helps keep the tires on the ground. With an open diff, if one wheel loses traction or contact, the other wheel loses power, and then you're just 2wd.
On my swaybar, I can just push it up and it stays, maybe from tight bushings. I've seen others strap or bungee it up.
Good call on keeping the rear attached for all but the hardest stuff. That will force the front to flex more.
 






im not a 2nd gen guru, but from what Ive read elsewhere, you are going to want to look at limiting straps if you disconnect. The fronts of those trucks actually articulate pretty well when disconnected.
 






Thanks for the replies I'm debating on modifying the front end links or buying the warrior quick disconnects but there $150!!! And for the rear I was almost considering either just leave it the way out is as it doesn't seem to limit flex a whole lot or just ditch it but if body roll is a problem with the rear removed I'm not sure about that is rather hand more control during a blow out on the highway then a little more flex offroad.warrior makes disconnect for the rear too but again it's pricey.......although in all Honesty there is only one trail (that's a known legal orv trail) in my state that I know of that I probably wouldn't make anyway at least the whole trail wuthout 35's and being locked with a good spotter I'm new to the rock scene been nothing but mud and sand until recently I have no trouble with my current off-road spots the way my ex is now. ......

So has anybody been in the fence then made the mod and was happy with it enough to do it again?
 






Please excuse the typos Android auto correct and Swype get annoying
 






On the front axle, you need all the help you can get, so yes it's worth it. It helps keep the tires on the ground. With an open diff, if one wheel loses traction or contact, the other wheel loses power, and then you're just 2wd.
On my swaybar, I can just push it up and it stays, maybe from tight bushings. I've seen others strap or bungee it up.
Good call on keeping the rear attached for all but the hardest stuff. That will force the front to flex more.

IMO better to lift a tire than break a cv axle. If you do disconnect the front sway bar I highly recommend limit straps!!!!!!!
I prefer to use the bar for that.


for the rear though-replace the lower bolt with a clevis pin, springs, washers and hitch pin.

On a side note. When doing the rear sway bar links, note how the links are mounted. the driver side frame mount is lower than the passenger side frame mount. This is because the truck uses the sway bar for gansta lean control. If you have lean to the left, could be the sway bar axle bushings are shot.

Off topic, but kinda on topic.
 






I have already bought the pins and stuff for the rear but how is actually pulling it apart? And then trying to reconnect it is it a pain?
 






I have already bought the pins and stuff for the rear but how is actually pulling it apart? And then trying to reconnect it is it a pain?

That all depends on how level the ground is. I have been out with Jeeps and some are very easy getting in and out and some we are jumping on Bumpers LOL
 






That all depends on how level the ground is. I have been out with Jeeps and some are very easy getting in and out and some we are jumping on Bumpers LOL
That, and you learn which wheel to put on a small incline,or bump.
 






So is it a must mod? Or something to live without sounds like kind of.a pain maybe I'll save my parts until I start more challenging trails. Also I started another thread on welding spider gears together on my front 96 d35 axle since it has a vacuum disconnect and doing the mod that gives you control over it with a switch then the high cv angles with no sway bar plus welded diff sounds like carnage.... hmmm 4 hours from home and breaking drive line components in a wilderness area doesn't sound like fun I hydro locked my engine once two hours from home and it was a nightmare plus I spent the rest of the summer rebuilding the engine instead of going to the beach somehow I always seem to learn the hard way lol
 






Well, beware this mod is not the only one required. Once you attain more flex, you have to worry about the driver side rear droop. Without the sway bar links, the rear brake line becomes the limit strap.
The fix for this is not expensive, nor very difficult. Just a brake line extension, you need these.
unclip the rubber line from the bracket after loosening the frame hard line feeding it. put the brass flared coupler in the bracket hole.

001.JPG


The rear diff vent tube needs to be extended also. It can be run all the way up behind the tail light.
If it is not extended it will pull off it's clip on the frame and you'll be dragging a rubber hose around, which looks silly.
 






I already ran breather extension for all my vent lines for trying to stop water from getting in them honestly I'm actually impressed with the stock flex it will stuff a tire pretty decent in the rear with the sway bar doesn't seem like you would gain that much to make all this worth it maybe it's personal preference maybe I will save the mod for later down the road when maximum flex is needed for trying the really challenging trails.
 






Back
Top