Coolant leak repair > missing at all RPMs | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Coolant leak repair > missing at all RPMs

terrypen

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Joined
May 24, 2013
Messages
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Location
Living in a van down by the River!
City, State
Portland, OR
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Ford Explorer XLS
Callsign
W5NRA
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer XLS, 4.0L OHV engine with 188k miles.

****Long story starts here, skip to "Short Story Starts here" for current issue, or "Really Short Story Starts here" if you are really, really impatient!!*******

Three or four weeks ago it started losing coolant and I wasn't seeing very much dripping or able to pinpoint the fine spray that was occurring under the hood. It appeared that there was a little leakage around the upper hose at the radiator, so I replaced the hose. The leaking continued and it still seemed like it was in the same location. I replaced the radiator and when I filled it back up with fluids as I was topping it off, I looked under the vehicle and it was dripping back near the water pump trying to look around all the grease (this is an oil replenishing model.)
So, being that this is my only running vehicle (that's not running now,) I called a friend and asked him to pick me up a water pump and fan clutch tool ($60 rental for a piece of junk.) I replaced the water pump and filled it back up with fluids... OMGosh!!! IT WAS STILL LEAKING (about to drive this thing into the river!)​

***Short Story Starts here***

After much fussing with mirrors and removing alternator/bracketry, trying to find the leak, I finally found it coming out of the lower intake manifold just to the left of the thermostat housing. I bought the intake manifold gasket set and it arrived yesterday and a buddy came over and helped with the tear down and installation. I finished the belts, double checking for leaks and non-connected vacuum hoses.​

****Really Short Story Starts here****

After all that, I have a miss at all RPMs. I suspect a vacuum hose is not connected somewhere but I can't find it, even using a hose as a stethoscope! Any assistance with commonly forgotten/missed vacuum hose connections? Or someone easier way to find the leak/miss?​
 



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I am going to suggest you made the same mistake all of us have, more than once. The firing order on driver side is kind of confusing. Triple check the spark plug wires are connected to the correct coil terminals. serious.

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I did check them, I will double check... yes I noticed that idiotic numbering too!
Thanks!

***UPDATE****
I did triple check the spark plug wires! They are correct.
 












That's your DPFE (EGR Pressure Feedback) sensor, BTW.
 












Do you have a check engine light displayed?
-if not does the check engine light illuminate with the bulb check when you first turn on the key?
 






Do you have a check engine light displayed?
-if not does the check engine light illuminate with the bulb check when you first turn on the key?
Yes I do, but I also have a Ultragauge OBD II reader that is always hooked up. Neither of them have thrown a code, yet.
 






I bought some starting fluid to try spraying around the intake area to see if I would get a change in RPMs.
When I started it up today, it doesn't feel like it's missing any more, but when I went on a test drive it threw a code.

I'm in the process of researching that but thought I'd throw it up here too, for extra feedback.

P0171 is the code. I reset it and will drive it to work tonight and see if it throws it again.

Any ideas on the P0171 would also be helpful.
 






If the 171 was accompanied by a 174 I would suspect a large vacuum leak.
However, 171 alone combined with a miss makes me suspect a fuel injector. The issue is on bank 1 ( passenger side)
If it is a dead cylinder type miss, you can pull the spark plug wires from the coilpack while it is running. Do this fast and do not allow the wire end you are holding to go anywhere near ground, I promise it will not shock you if you do it quick, and put the wire right back quickly. ( if you do get "bit" you will learn what not to do)

The wire which makes no difference is the dead cylinder. now you know which injector to pay attention to.
Once you know this, feel that injector while the engine is running. you should feel it clicking. If it is, it is probably clogged. if it does not, you need to verify the voltage is getting to it.

You can use an led light in the injector harness to check for the voltage pulse. If the led flashes ( you may have to experiment with polarity) the harness is ok.
 






Thanks for all the replies!! I really do appreciate the assistance.
It fixed itself last night when I left for work. I went out to spray that starter fluid around spots where vacuum leaks might occur and when I started it back up I did not notice a miss. I test drove it around the block and it seemed fine, so I took it to work and back (23 miles one way) and it seems happy. Maybe after the computer being unplugged for 10 days, it had to go back to kindergarten!

Thanks again,
Terry

P.S. got some other questions for new threads, so you'll probably see me again!!
 






I do have one more question associated with this repair!
For some reason my idle RPM is higher than it was before. When I first start from cold it is about 15-1800 RPM then after it warms a bit drops to about 1200. After it completely warms up it is about 900 RPMs, isn't it supposed to be around 6-700? Are the rest of those normal? I know it is higher than it used to be in all circumstances.
 












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