Binding issue

[bigred4x4]

Today I got finished replacing the lower a arms and shocks I refinished the torsion bars (cleaned and painted)added new wear pads (~3/16" silicone pad ) couldn't find the Kevlar oe replacements and installed transmission/cat skid plate (used a t case plate from salvage yard and put it under transmission pan)when I finally got done it seemed like a got a little lift up front because I turned the adjuster bolts a little further but not too much (I'm was also doing a tt) I decided to back up and drive around the yard to settle first only right away I noticed binding thought it was the parking break sticking. The binding turns out is from the passenger front wheel it move s about three feet and locks up completely also I noticed after moving the truck the front end now, all of the sudden, sits about an inch lower than factory height (a arms contacting bump stops) and turning the adjuster bolts didn't really do any thing and my driver side adjuster is about maxed out..... It started raining so I called it quits. I didn't torque the lower joint nut I'll ldo that tomorrow I'm wondering if it didn't seat all the way..... Any way i tried supporting the cv axles as much as I could but I'm wondering if I busted one ..... Any ideas where to start for tomorrow?

 

[bigred4x4]

O btw it's a 96 xlt 4wd explorer

 

[Rick]

My thought is that the torsion bar wasn't properly indexed in the frame, or the control arm. I haven't worked on the Explorer torsion bars, but that is some thing that can go wrong when installing them in Mopar cars.

 

[bigred4x4]

Another thing I'll add is I didnt need a puller to remove the t bar keeper I could push up on it enough to remove it once the shocks and sway bar end link and upper arm were disconnected not sure if that's normal it just weird how everything was fine and now after replacing a few things I got all these new , more serious problems

 

[99SportX]

Are you sure that you indexed the torsion bar hex end in the control arm properly? That will substantially change your ride height adjustment range. It is also possible that if the torsion bar or control arm is worn out that the hex end slipped a flat, but unlikely.

CV binding is a possibility. Jack up the one corner so the suspension is loaded and spin the wheel by hand while having a helper work the steering. Feel for the bind and see if you can locate it.

 

[bigred4x4]

Well another thing I noticed is I've never done a torsion twist im the second owner (since 2007)and I know the first guy didn't do one either and my driver side adjuster bolt only had 4/5 threads/rotations left before it was maxed out I'm thinking maybe trying to re index the keys....I put everything together the same way it came out that's why I'm not sure why the big issue all of the big sudden....as far as the binding is this typical of a damaged cv? It'll rotate to a certain point but then lock up completely? Any way to b tell visually?

 

[bigred4x4]

Funny u mention the torsion bar was and still is slightly ****ed (slipped) in the key and the new a arms but it was fine before now it's like it's practically non existant hmmmmm I'll check the hex key tomorrow it's possible it did strip out /slipped and I lifted the wheel and I can turn it by hand forward and backwards almost a full rotation until it binds and it binds to the point where the tire gets completely locked and drags across the ground

 

[99SportX]

I remember a thread a while back that talked about some of the aftermarket lower control arms being sloppy in the hex where the tbar engages. You may have that issue and slipping a flat could be very possible.

 

[99SportX]

If the cv wasn't pushed into the diff all the way there could be some binding, whether internally or against the control arm with your currently low ride height.

 

[bigred4x4]

It's not perfect maybe that's why the adjuster had little play room it was the same way in the old lower arms I believe it looks similar if I recall in the keys too I'm about maxed out on the adjusters and still barely reaching factory height if at all I'm just don't know why this wasn't really an issue before (I'm sitting maybe slightly lower now with the adjusters turned a few more rotations than before.) I'll check the cv tomorrow hopefully it's a simple error and I don't have to tear it all apart again and buy new axles.

 

[99SportX]

That looks just fine to me. The new arms could have the hex part welded in a little different than the stockers so I wouldn't worry too much about needing to be adjusted a little differently to achieve the same height. You may run out of travel to get the lift you want though.

 

[bigred4x4]

Is this fixable ? Would it be safe to re index? Or do I need new t bars? Are there new ones available or do I have to try my luck at the junk yard

 

[bigred4x4]

There is some slippage you can see the gaps wasn't sure if that was considered normal.

 

[bigred4x4]

That looks just fine to me. The new arms could have the hex part welded in a little different than the stockers so I wouldn't worry too much about needing to be adjusted a little differently to achieve the same height. You may run out of travel to get the lift you want though.

Your a genius I never would have thought of that the hex keys in the new arms are perfectly straight (I know it's hard to tell in b the pictures) and the old one was slightly ****ed in the lift direction. So should I re index the key or get longer bolts? Because I'd be maxed out and only gain a sliver of lift was hoping to go about 1.5" or so up front

 

[99SportX]

I wouldn't worry about those gaps. That isn't enough to cause it to slip a flat. I have never indexed bars so i'm not fully certain on what the possibilities are there.

 

[99SportX]

I have heard of people running longer bolts but I am not sure if that will be enough to go up 1.5". You may need to search around or post up in one of the normal sub forums for opinions.

 

[bigred4x4]

I'm going to try to re index given that I'm maxed out pretty much at barely stock height I doubt it's going to be an issue if anything I'll just have a little more upward adjustment range than most people I'll post back tomorrow as a follow up in case somebody else runs into this issue my main concern is the binding on the passenger side as the truck isn't drivable at all right now hopefully I made a mistake on reassembly is there anyway to tell if the joint is screwed without pulling the whole axle out completely and removing the boot etc....

 

[99SportX]

Give it a look tomorrow and look for something obvious. Hopefully moving things by hand can give you some idea of where the binding is. Biggest thing is to make sure it is snapped into the diff housing all the way.

 

[bigred4x4]

Ok so I pulled the cv it was fine turns out somehow a bolt got behind the rotor and was causing it to lock up because it wedged itself in funny thing is it's a old Bell housing bolt from back when I did the tranny rebuild so it must of dropped down all the way when I had things apart and I maxed out my driver side I switched keys I don't think it did much I tried swapping bars the passenger bar is longer so that wouldn't work and reindexing was not going to work 60 degrees is just way too extreme I'm sitting almost level now so I'm happy but I'm going to get the longer bolts so I can come up a hair more in the front I also had time to weld in a front hitch receiver under the winch plate and trim my valance it looks a lot better now .... Whew it's been a long weekend thanks for the quick replies everybody!

 

[CDW6212R]

Good job with the work, and trying something to replace the Kevlar wear pads.

There are different torsion bar keys which alter the height range a good amount. Aftermarket keys run prices from $35 to $75 I recall, and there are some cheap brands too.

The Sport Trac uses a different key than the stock 2nd gens, which is how those set higher. So for a mild lift OEM part, I'd hunt those ST keys.

The low quality LCA's mentioned by Eric had a ton of play(gap) in the hex corners where the torsion bars go in. They looked like they might round off the bar and jump 60 degrees easily. The gaps you have are normal, I believe that gap is purposely there to keep the parts from seizing together.