Slower starts, voltage gauge

[Boosted1993eg]

so I have noticed that my truck has started to slow down when starting. It starts. It sounds like it barely is getting started. Like not enough juice. While running the charge in the battery is 14.0 v. Battery was still around 12v when not running. Any other causes to this ? It has a 4.0. All stock

 

[Boosted1993eg]

Also noticed my voltage gauge is slowly dropping each day

 

[poker4me007]

A rested fully charged battery should be around 12.6 volts... At 12 your only about 50% ...Im old school if you think the battery's okay disconect it while running with lights on it shouldn't stall, if it does look at alternator...

 

[poker4me007]

Here's some charts...
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[koda2000]

If the voltage measured at the battery while running is 14 'ish, that means your alternator is charging okay. If later the battery only measures 12 volts, it's not holding a charge and is probably bad. Besides, volts are not what starts your engine. AMPs are what's important.

I've occasionally seen where a bad alternator diode will drain a battery, so try leaving the battery disconnected when the truck is sitting, but my guess is your battery is shot. Get it load tested at most auto parts stores for free.

 

[J_C]

I would hook a battery charger up to it for a few hours, then disconnect that and wait an hour to take a voltage reading. If it's not sitting at 12.6V or very near, the battery is shot (*or something is draining it*). If not a maintenance free type you could pop the cap and see if it's low on water.

I assume you have cleaned the battery terminals and cable clamps in recent months. That could help with starting but has nothing to do with resting voltage reading.

 

[Boosted1993eg]

I would hook a battery charger up to it for a few hours, then disconnect that and wait an hour to take a voltage reading. If it's not sitting at 12.6V or very near, the battery is shot (*or something is draining it*). If not a maintenance free type you could pop the cap and see if it's low on water.

I assume you have cleaned the battery terminals and cable clamps in recent months. That could help with starting but has nothing to do with resting voltage reading.

I haven't cleaned the terminals cause they really don't have anything on them. But I willnpull them off and clean just in case. And leave them disconnect and check the volts! Would the battery gauge in the truck going low mean something with the battery or amis that just a general system gauge. Thanks for the info I'll check on it all later and let you guys know what I find

 

[koda2000]

I haven't cleaned the terminals cause they really don't have anything on them. But I willnpull them off and clean just in case. And leave them disconnect and check the volts! Would the battery gauge in the truck going low mean something with the battery or amis that just a general system gauge. Thanks for the info I'll check on it all later and let you guys know what I find

Don't think that just because the battery terminals appear clean they are. Still, when you have dirty or loose terminal you engine typically wont even turn over.

When batteries go bad they short out internally. This causes them to not take the charge from the alternator, which can cause the BATT gauge to show low. Also, a bad battery can ruin a good alternator. Get both tested ASAP. It's free and only takes a couple of minutes to do.

 

[Boosted1993eg]

Don't think that just because the battery terminals appear clean they are. Still, when you have dirty or loose terminal you engine typically wont even turn over.

When batteries go bad they short out internally. This causes them to not take the charge from the alternator, which can cause the BATT gauge to show low. Also, a bad battery can ruin a good alternator. Get both tested ASAP. It's free and only takes a couple of minutes to do.

They can test the alternator in the truck? I don't need to pull it ?

 

[J_C]

Yes you need to pull it, but this only takes a few minutes. IIRC the tensioner pulley needs a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar ( no socket needed ) to loosen the belt to get it off the alternator.

How old is the battery? If I were you, and had a multimeter, I would disconnect the alternator charging wire to the battery, and measure current between it and the battery with a multimeter (only with engine off). If there is no current, then I would leave the alternator in for now and take the battery to be tested.

If there is current, the alternator probably has a leaky diode and needs replaced. However previously I had suggested charging the battery. If you can do that, leaving the cables to the vehicle disconnected, and find that the vehicle then starts up good right after connecting them, it means your battery is good and either the alternator is suspect, or you may have some parasitic drain causing the battery to run down.

Left in too low a run down state for too long, this can kill the battery even if the battery wasn't the primary cause. Same for a bad alternator eventually killing a battery, but the way you put it "started to slow down starting", this seems like a problem slowly getting worse while if your alternator was shot I would think it would more rapidly cause a complete failure to start or even cause the engine to die while running, all the while with your gauges going haywire as the voltage from the battery dropped.

 

[Boosted1993eg]

Yes you need to pull it, but this only takes a few minutes. IIRC the tensioner pulley needs a 3/8" ratchet or breaker bar ( no socket needed ) to loosen the belt to get it off the alternator.

How old is the battery? If I were you, and had a multimeter, I would disconnect the alternator charging wire to the battery, and measure current between it and the battery with a multimeter (only with engine off). If there is no current, then I would leave the alternator in for now and take the battery to be tested.

If there is current, the alternator probably has a leaky diode and needs replaced. However previously I had suggested charging the battery. If you can do that, leaving the cables to the vehicle disconnected, and find that the vehicle then starts up good right after connecting them, it means your battery is good and either the alternator is suspect, or you may have some parasitic drain causing the battery to run down.

Left in too low a run down state for too long, this can kill the battery even if the battery wasn't the primary cause. Same for a bad alternator eventually killing a battery, but the way you put it "started to slow down starting", this seems like a problem slowly getting worse while if your alternator was shot I would think it would more rapidly cause a complete failure to start or even cause the engine to die while running, all the while with your gauges going haywire as the voltage from the battery dropped.

Pulled cables off and cleaned. My battery reads 12.4 volts. Water in the battery is still full. The battery has to be at least 2-3 years old. The sticker on it says 1/13. Dunno what that means.

 

[koda2000]

It means your battery was manufactured in Jan of 2013. Batteries typically only last about 5 years and yours is about 5 years old (regardless of when you purchased it). Running a battery older than 5 years old is a crap shoot. Some rare ones might last a year or two longer, but eventually they will leave you stranded. Time for a new one.

 

[J_C]

Yeah I usually get 6 years out of one, usually buying 2nd to top CCA model, or top if the deal is right. Then again if the alternator is the original, it is doing well to have lasted this long (depending on vehicle mileage) and ending up needing a tow could be about as expensive as an alternator.

Guess it depends on the situation since you might be able to bring an alternator and tools to the site for something this quick to replace, if it's parked somewhere safe enough. I just wouldn't want to go on any long trips with an 18 year old alternator.

 

[J_C]

For what it's worth, I replaced the battery in mine about a month ago and shopping around, found a decent price at Walmart. They sell some low end junk but the Everstart line seems to be decent, is made by Johnson Controls (though this might vary by region?).

Came out to just under $100 after tax. I'd hoped to get one at Advance Auto with a coupon code instead but their batteries seem to have gone up in price over the last few years.

3 year replacement + 2 prorated. The description on their webpage reads 750CCA in error, it's 850CCA. However if you're in the south then the local walmart may stock the 65S battery which has lower CCA than the 65N.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Lead-Acid-Automotive-Battery-Group-Size-65N/20703125

 

[koda2000]

There's only like eight companies that manufacture batteries in the U.S. and hundreds of different brands. That's not to say all batteries are created equal though. I've had excellent luck with several NAPA brand batteries and lately I've had 2 that only lasted 4 years. We used to call the Walmart batteries "Neverstart" but my '01 ST came with a Walmart Everstart with a 2013 sticker on it. So far it's been fine, but I plan on replacing it pretty soon. You can't go too far wrong with a 3 year replacement and 2 year pro-rate warranty whatever you buy, but the discount auto parts chain stores battery prices have jumper way up lately. I guess your paying for the warranty insurance. The cheaper group 65 Walmart battery is around $75. The better one is around $94. Autozone's better battery is now up to $155. Advance's better battery is $158, but you may be able to save 20% if you order and pay on-line then pick up at store.

I've had people tell me that they have had the same battery in their car or truck for 10 years or more. I call BS on that. I also had a guy tell me that his 2000 Crown Vic 5.0 V8 was getting 32 MPG after installing a Tornado device in his intake tube... BS. That's just impossible.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I had a battery last for 8 years. That's my best run so far. Replaced it when I did the alternator.

 

[J_C]

I have an unmodifed '97 Lesabre 3.8L that gets around 32MPG on the highway if you keep it at 60MPH, but who wants to do that? Heh, I need to get rid of that car but it's hard to find someone willing to pay what I want for it, due to it having under 50K mi.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Those GM 3.8s are good motors. Had one in a Cutlass Cierra International. That car RAN for its day.

 

[J_C]

Yeah people say they're bullet proof, except the gen 1 - 3 intake manifolds/gaskets were a little iffy. Mine finally failed a couple years ago so it has almost new U/L gaskets, manifold, temp sensor, thermostat.... lol, wires/plugs/front brakes/rotors, all within the last 1000 mi.

I should keep it but I REALLY hate how those old GM boats handle and it's past the age where I'd start throwing Bonneville SSE parts on to try to change it. If I were just cruising the freeway it would be great, like sitting on a sofa in your living room, but there's more hills and curves than straightaways around here.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I had one for 4 years, and never replaced anything on it. It was invisible, the only car I've never gotten a ticket in. I reluctantly sold it to a buddy who really needed a car when I bought my first Explorer. Bad idea. I really could have used a second ride with the POS.