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How to: Convert V8 AWD to BW 4406 Manual Shift- A how to thread

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Jack would do fine if exhaust and/or gas tank are out of the way. *edit* actually, I think gas tank HAS to move to go straight in.


I've got a nice coating of Mobile1 ATF on everything downstream of the T-Case now... anyone have some advice? Looks like input and rear output are weeping. Removed fill plug and some came out, so not a terrible leak (on level ground).

Was the synth a mistake? Should I pull the ***** out and replace seals? Is there a good "seal rehab" product I can put in without destroying the thing?

Thanks!
 



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Synthetic is great, the best fluid always. I'd hope you have a poor rear seal, and change that first. Did you get the OEM type, with a large rubber extension? That's what you want, many aftermarket seals have just one outer seal. The good OEM version has two, the inner main seal, and the large outer part which is basically a great dust seal, keeping the inner seal clean.

Hopefully you have a nicked seal, or a leak around the seal itself. Did you wipe a thin film of RTV on the outside of the seal? Many seals now come with a layer on them, prices have gone way up on seals in the last ten years.
 






This is a really good write up. I think I will plan on doing this in the near future once I find the time to replace my transmission with a new one...mine died. I can go maybe 100ft before it loses all forward gears. Not sure why so new transmission it is.
 






Time to ask one more question.
I have swapped in a 4406 TC and really enjoy it, however, I don't think the linkage between the shifter and the Tcase is the correct length. I've managed to shift it accurately by counting the detents. One "click" down is 4 high, the next is neutral, the next is 4 low etc. But I'd love for the shifter to be accurate, and hit the stops to prevent being in the wrong position. To do that I need a linkage that is the correct length. The linkage I am using came from a mid-90's F-150. Now what does all this have to do with my question?

does anyone know exactly how long the linkage (from center of one hole to the center of the other) needs to be for the stops on the shifter to match the detents in the Tcase?
 






I made my linkage from a piece of 3/16 flat bar. I put the case and shifter in 4 high then just measured the distance from the center of the 2 posts. I drilled the 2 holes to fit tightly on the 2 posts then used a washer and a snap ring on each end to hold the flat bar on. It's been on there for 5 yrs now and I've never had an issue
 






that sounds great! While the measuring sounds pretty straightforward, is there any way you could get a pic of the washers and snap ring? If not, cool, I'll work on it. Thanks for the tip
 






My grandson and myself started the conversion from AWD to manual TC(4406) on Saturday on a 1997 Eddie Bauer. Should finish tomorrow. Had to get a new slip yoke boot for front shaft. It’s a little more complicated this the write Up I have driven it without the front shaft. And it drives fine. Will have to check the speedometer for accuracy. And yes if I have to ever pull it the gas tank is coming out. I used the speedo gear from the Awd tc. It is a 19 tooth pink. The speedo gear in the 4406 was a 20 tooth red. Any thoughts on that. The shifter knob is very close to the Eddie Bauer center console. Time will tell.
 






My grandson and myself started the conversion from AWD to manual TC(4406) on Saturday on a 1997 Eddie Bauer. Should finish tomorrow. Had to get a new slip yoke boot for front shaft. It’s a little more complicated this the write Up I have driven it without the front shaft. And it drives fine. Will have to check the speedometer for accuracy. And yes if I have to ever pull it the gas tank is coming out. I used the speedo gear from the Awd tc. It is a 19 tooth pink. The speedo gear in the 4406 was a 20 tooth red. Any thoughts on that. The shifter knob is very close to the Eddie Bauer center console. Time will tell.

Welcome to the forum. I suggest starting with the original speedo gear. The output shafts generally have the same VSS tooth count, so the VSS gear would need to remain the same. I don't know the output shaft tooth count of the BW4403 versus BB4406, but differences are rare. The AOD had at least two output shaft tooth counts, 7 and 9 IIRC.
 






For what it's worth... when it starts to leaking fluid from trans... it's easy to scoot it back 1/2" (leave 2 bolts in), rip out gasket, and apply RTV with hacksaw blade.

Well, maybe you're better at saving old gasket than I was...
 






Got it all togather seems to drive fine. Will test speedometer with a gps unit tomorrow. Hooked up an indicator light to show when it is in 4wd.
 






Wound up putting the f-150 seedometer gear (red 20 tooth) gear back in. Speedometer is only off 2 mph at 65 mph. Truck is doing 63 when speedometer says 65. I want to thank everyone on this thread for there input. It made this swap possible.
 






Well done, and thanks for the update. We like to hear of successful results.

The tires you use can make a 2mph difference at speed. The stock 30" 16 size is the closest to perfect speedometer size for 2nd generations. The 29" 15's usually have an accuracy like you have now, just a couple MPH slower than indicated. I just had 29" tires(255/65/16) and swapped to a 29.5" tires(245/70/16 Discoverer AT3) with off road tread(deeper), so I'm very close to exact with these. So you can adjust slightly in the future with new tires, if you want to. Add 10mm to the section width, that's about 1/2", and each series change(70 to 65), is one inch of height.
 






Thanks for the input it is running 235-75-15. Tires.
Ps it anyone needs the linkage bar from the shifter to the TC. I have a spare. Will let it go for shipping.
 






Thanks for the input it is running 235-75-15. Tires.
Ps it anyone needs the linkage bar from the shifter to the TC. I have a spare. Will let it go for shipping.

Bingo, I think you have the intended speedometer gear and accuracy. That stock size tire does leave the reading a hair fast, my 91, 93, and two 98's had those same tires on them. I like the 16" wheels better from my 99, so I have three sets of those now(one for snow). Enjoy that big BW4406 now. Night,
 






Can someone help me with a question I am having. I am having no problem locating the Manual TC, Rear 5.4L Driveshaft, Front 4.6L Drive Shaft.

The 4406 has a slip yoke for the rear drive shaft. What slip yoke do I need to get to go on the TC side to work with the rear drive shaft? From what truck? the same as the expedition? or F150 with the 4406? will it already have it?
 






From the 1st page of this thread, "1997-200? Expedition/Navigator 4x4 rear driveshaft. Suspension set up makes no difference that I can tell. Must be from a 5.4 V8 equipped vehicle".
 






I know the part, Just the pictures on the first page show the u joint disconnected from the slip yoke that slides into the TC. Most reference photos have it off unless I am looking for the drive shaft pictures itself.
 






if you buy it from a salvage yard it should come with it
 






Thanks for the clarification. 50% of the junkyard this weekend. Drive shafts will cost me less then $30, TC around $50 if I find one.
 



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