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T3 T4 Hybrid Turbo OHV

Well I got tired of the 4.0 ohv not having any power on the highway climbing the hills on the 62 and having no low end in 4x4 high offroad, especially now that I have a pickup with a 5.7 v8 in it..

I've been lurking for some time since I've been kinda busy with work but, I got my hands on a Turbonetics T3 T4 hybrid so it's project time. It has the .48ar T3 turbine and a f1-57 trim T4 compressor. I expect this thing will spool FAST but I am not making any claims to being too familiar with forced induction..worst case scenario is there's a problem I can get a higher trim turbine.

I plan on having it live just behind and to the right of the alternator after doing test fitting. Its snug but should work nice to draw through my snorkel set up and for routing the exhaust.

Now, I have a concern about drawing through the stock airbox with a K&N drop in.. will this be too much suction and cause oil to get past the center housing seals?

If I hit full boost before highway cruising speed will that boost still be effective once in the higher RPM's? ie: is 7lb boost (where I plan to limit it at) at say, 1500 rpm still 7lb boost at 3k rpm?

Anyway, thanks in advance for the guru advice and input. I'll try to post through the project and get some pics up since everyone likes pics.

:usa: 'merica
 



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Thank you very much. He doesn't have the box yet as another shop is bringing the parts to him.
No problem. .the spring seat and the valve seal nipple/pedestal dont need much milled but both need a little removed..make sure they do the seal nipple pedestal also though,the retainer will hit the seal and smoosh it if not..
 



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Got a lot of wrench turning done. Won't hear my the machinist until next week.

The engine is out and torn down. I'm working on the lifters tonight and already replaced the rocker arms with the new melling ones. I'll be digging into the bottom end tomorrow after I get the timing cover off....turns out the head gasket (cheap cardboard junk) blew into one of the oil jackets and was pressurizing the crank that way. It's pretty clear that whoever I paid to do the heads 3 years ago took some shortcuts with some of the other things I am finding like water and oil jackets sealed closed with silicon sealant...major progress over the last week and a half though and the project will go on ice another month until I get the heads back and can put everything back together in June.
 






Got a lot of wrench turning done. Won't hear my the machinist until next week.

The engine is out and torn down. I'm working on the lifters tonight and already replaced the rocker arms with the new melling ones. I'll be digging into the bottom end tomorrow after I get the timing cover off....turns out the head gasket (cheap cardboard junk) blew into one of the oil jackets and was pressurizing the crank that way. It's pretty clear that whoever I paid to do the heads 3 years ago took some shortcuts with some of the other things I am finding like water and oil jackets sealed closed with silicon sealant...major progress over the last week and a half though and the project will go on ice another month until I get the heads back and can put everything back together in June.
Are you talking about some sealed off on the gasket or heads??
Tried to look back but couldnt find it,your new gaskets are the blue felpro super duty right?have you already got the arp head bolts?
 






Are you talking about some sealed off on the gasket or heads??
Tried to look back but couldnt find it,your new gaskets are the blue felpro super duty right?have you already got the arp head bolts?

So they were sealed off in the gasket with sealant but also had to pull sealant out if the jacket. Looked intentional though.

I did get the felpro superduty ones and the ARP Studs.
 






So they were sealed off in the gasket with sealant but also had to pull sealant out if the jacket. Looked intentional though.

I did get the felpro superduty ones and the ARP Studs.
O ok because some ports are sealed off on the gaskets, its for water flow but wouldnt be with rtv
 






Well things have been busy in my buddies garage. Once the engine was on the stand...which took me a solid couple of days to get it there. One day spent just monkeying with trying to disconnect the quick connect fittings for the A.C. AND Fuel lines......I went into project mode and got working....I was pretty focused by that point and didn't take a whole ton of pictures, some, but not enough to break it down step by step.

Hitting a few areas of major frustration while trying to pull the engine it's been much more relaxing working on the engine proper while it's on the stand.

Once everything was apart and the block cleaned of gasket material. I gave it a good looking over. The bores and pistons have worn really well with the exception of the head of the #3 piston that is full of shrapnel marks from when I had the ceranics of a plug grenade in there 8 years (+-) ago.

I did some honing for the rings using a ball flex hone followed by an embedded nylon brush hone. Then gave the block a good wash down to remove all abrasive/metal dust. These resulted in a very nice cross hatch that should seat the new rings in quite well.

The new crank and pistons are all installed now. I didnt have a camshaft bearing tool so i ordered one. Nobody has one in the loaner tools or in stock. So now I am waiting on that and the heads to get done at the machine shop to finish the rebuild.
 






Monday morning I picked my heads up from the machine shop. Today the truck fired up and ran great. Going to have to pull codes tomorrow and see what the cel is for and take it for a drive if everything checks out. Not a lot of documenting took place. Focus was on getting the project done and out of my generous friends garage.

And it sounds great.
 






Congratulations on getting lots of work done.
I too get carried away with work and skip taking pictures sometimes, I always regret it though. lol.
Does it feel like it has more power?
 






Haven't taken it out driving yet. Just did the initial startup. Going check everything over tomorrow and if everything seems in order I'll take it for a drive.
 






Haven't taken it out driving yet. Just did the initial startup. Going check everything over tomorrow and if everything seems in order I'll take it for a drive.
Seat them rings before its to late,dont run it too long
 






Yeah, I only ran it for about 15 min or so checking for leaks and getting the coolant filled. Next time it runs will be to get it on the road and put it under load to get the rings seated.
 






Finally got it out on the highway and out of my friends yard. Took it a few towns over over to where we'll be living. No tail pipe smoke after the first few miles. Noticed oil leaks and tightened up valve covers. Clear now the leaks are coming from head gaskets and also hear an intake leak whistling so ill just end up redoing all the top end gaskets since I'll be tearing it down that far again. Want to make sure it's rock solid for the boost and so I don't get left stranded in the middle of the woods. I screwed something up and better safe than sorry with this much invested.
 






****, I know that feeling.
 






Well I got it done but my passenger side valve cover is leaking. Gasket looks like its in there straight and I tried tightening the cover just a bit more. Still leaks. I'm guessing it's bent from previous jobs. Contemplating replacement since it's leaking pretty steadily while the engine is running and the cloud of oil smoke I'm in at stops is stinky and embarrassing. Just not stoked for another 100 bucks for a new cover.
 






Well I got it done but my passenger side valve cover is leaking. Gasket looks like its in there straight and I tried tightening the cover just a bit more. Still leaks. I'm guessing it's bent from previous jobs. Contemplating replacement since it's leaking pretty steadily while the engine is running and the cloud of oil smoke I'm in at stops is stinky and embarrassing. Just not stoked for another 100 bucks for a new cover.
Didnt use cork gaskets did ya?? Also you put the little wings back on the bolt also? You put rtv where the head meets the intake?
 






Definately no cork. The rtv is applied at the seem of the lower intake and head. For the life of the vehicle it has never had torque spreaders on the covers. If I could find some that would fit it could potentially help the issue but looking at the cover it visibly isn't putting pressure on the gasket between bolts in about 3 places on the exhaust side and firewall side of the head so I'm thinking a flush new one will be the best way to go. The gasket I removed was stuck in there with a ton of rtv all the way around by the shop that did the head gaskets when I was in florida. That and the cheap gaskets they used along with other things I had found in the process of my rebuild would lead me to believe they really cranked down on the valve cover bolts and bent the cover for me and it just didn't leak from the amount of goop they put in there.
 






Well I've got time so I started building a bracket to hold the turbo in place next to the alternator and away from the belt tenisioner. Clearance was less than a milimeter when the engine was revved and although I don't see rub marks on the belt or turbo I don't want to have a need to replace a compressor housing or belts/tensioners prematurely. The bracket I'm making uses the lower 2 alternator bolts and 2 of the compressor housing bolts. I've got it mocked up but I still have some work to do on it. The turbo and y pipe move with the engine and theres a flexpipe in my down pipe to isolate the movement so I should be good on that side of things.
 






Pictures!
 









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TN8Bhl.jpg

Not sure where the other pictures got to but heres the one I have. The bracket holds the turbo just far enough back for the belt and tensioner to clear the compressor housing. The way the y pipe was welded it would need to be cut and re-welded to move further.

Still needs to be cleaned up and finished but it fits and does the job. This picture should get the basic idea across.
 






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