Front Drive Shaft (4406) question

[SWIGIN]

Seems like a lot of work to not just try a DC shaft.

 

[delexploder]

I have the early explorer front shaft with the dc and adapter

 

[CDW6212R]

Don, I've tried to adjust the angles with little success. You can't significantly change the pinion or TC angle by raising or lowering the trans mount or the torque arm mount on the front diff (I even have one I modified and you can't change it enough to matter). The TC and the front diff pinion are not parallel and from my measurement, they couldn't have been from the factory either (hence the reason the factory started using CVs). The angles are way, way off of what they "should" be. Look under a new F150 once; they have a CV on both ends of the front drive shaft.
....

Thanks, I figured it wopuldn't be possible to change either angle much. It's clear by eye that those angles are far from parallel, I was hoping with measuring it might be closer than it looks.

The front two carrier mounts are horizontal bolts, those can't move much. I was imaging the rear mount being a vertical bolt, might allow some alteration up or down a bit. Down would be better for cat pipe clearance, but as you said it can't likely be changed enough. I bet the angles are the big cause, and the different u-joint types vary how they work given the odd angles. Certain angles do fine with DC or CV joints, but the DC joint has a good range that seems to not cover many of the typical angles these trucks have.

Thanks to you guys ganging up on this, I'm sure that all of this input will find a decent solution.

The CV idea is good too, but I bet that odd output flange is not easy to adapt onto the 4406. There is a common adapter flange available to adapt the CV output(six bolts) to a four bolt flange. What are the chances that there could be a similar adapter that has the six bolt flange(female) on one side, and the four bolt on the other?

 

[gavin]

I've looked at the front angles many times and wondered if the TC output shaft is parallel with the front pinion shaft. The angle of the two shaft is the biggest key for eliminating drive shaft vibrations. I would first try to adjust those to be parallel. The front diff, those all have three bushings in their mounts, and at this age many of them are wearing out. I think my rear one in the bracket is worn on my 98, I ordered four of the front ones, those are identical. The rear only comes with the bracket, which is a too much $190 price.

The trans mount on the cross member is a weak link with the BW4406 installed, that may be a big source of change of the output shaft angle.

I can say that, at least the BW4404 on my 97, the front t-case output is actually angled upward.
Shaft itself is almost parallel with the pinion shaft.

My crude drawing from several years ago.

left being the pinion

 

[ahodges]

The only major difference between the stock 4405 AWD transfer case output shaft and the 4406 output shaft is that on the 4406 the output shaft sits about 1" or so further towards the frame rail which must be just enough to start causing the vibration.

Galvin, you also have a stock CV on the 4404 in your 97 correct? The other angle to consider is the horizontal angle which is magnified by the width of the 4406 like I pointed of above. U-joints don't like to work without vibration in a coumpound angle situation where you have angles on 2 planes.

 

[ahodges]

This is a link to what I have considered doing.
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domes...t-with-cv-1000hp-1350-has-no-clearance-issues

I haven't called this company yet to see what the dimensions are on the adaptor pictured or if maybe they have one that would work on the 4406 output shaft.

 

[SWIGIN]

I have the early explorer front shaft with the dc and adapter

View attachment 151241

So do I and it works great. I was talking to the guy wanting to swap output shafts.

 

[ahodges]

I have the DC adapter in my front drive shaft and it still vibrates at 70mph+. The drive shaft RPM matters more than actual vehicle speed. I have 4:10 gears and 30" tires so the drive train RPM is higher than most stock trucks.

 

[delexploder]

I kinda wondered about parts swapping between the 4406/ 05 , i was happy with the front shaft setup i have but i will say the manual hub deal really makes these rigs alot nicer to drive , im also running a dc on my rear driveshaft , its a cut down expedition unit , keep in mind im in a two door

 

[delexploder]

I'm also running 4:10 and a 31" tire , i had the same vibration , i like the idea of using the cv cup and ball setup if it can be done , i have a few friends that want me to do a 4406 swap for them so id be willing to try it, but like i said on my rig i always knew i was doing the manual hub swap so I just ignored the vibration till i got it done and now its just not an issue

 

[boominXplorer]

I have the early explorer front shaft with the dc and adapter

View attachment 151241

Same part I used on a 1st gen shaft.

 

[gavin]

The only major difference between the stock 4405 AWD transfer case output shaft and the 4406 output shaft is that on the 4406 the output shaft sits about 1" or so further towards the frame rail which must be just enough to start causing the vibration.

Galvin, you also have a stock CV on the 4404 in your 97 correct? The other angle to consider is the horizontal angle which is magnified by the width of the 4406 like I pointed of above. U-joints don't like to work without vibration in a coumpound angle situation where you have angles on 2 planes.

yeah, stock CV.
Though I had purchased a shaft with a single u-joint at each end, terrible vibration.
Then had it converted to a double-cardan at the t-case end, still had a terrible vibration.
It was felt and audible even at slower speeds.

That NVH is also why Ford switched to the ball and cage CV.

 

[ahodges]

FYI, I looked up the output shaft specs on the 4406 and the 4405. The 4406 specs are 37 spline, 6 7/16" long. The 4405 specs are 32 spline, 7 7/8" long. I wouldn't be as worried about the length yet, but the spline count would quire it. I called The Drive Shaft Shop and it sounds like they can build anything I want. I need to email them the measurements and pictures of what I have and they will get back to me.

 

[CDW6212R]

FYI, I looked up the output shaft specs on the 4406 and the 4405. The 4406 specs are 37 spline, 6 7/16" long. The 4405 specs are 32 spline, 7 7/8" long. I wouldn't be as worried about the length yet, but the spline count would quire it. I called The Drive Shaft Shop and it sounds like they can build anything I want. I need to email them the measurements and pictures of what I have and they will get back to me.

Good to hear. I've browsed the Drive Shaft Shop site before, and that's a place I'd like to have make my final drive shafts. That was years ago, I didn't know they were doing CV joints a lot too. That'd be the place to go to, maybe even save money if they knew multiple customers needed the particular parts.

Try to bend their ear about the shaft angles too, they would know what are the best ranges to adjust them too if possible.

 

[Anticitizen1]

If the cv adaptation concept is not doable, what are the specs for the early explorer style front driveshaft? I see that conversion adapter posted above, so is it just any 91-94 4x4 driveshaft off like a 4.0 explorer? Thanks guys.

 

[ahodges]

91-96 is the safe year range if you are going to use the double cardan with the flange adapter. Like I said before, for me it is better than the driveshaft with a single u-joint on each end but is not great. Hopefully by the end of the week I'll have an answer from The Drive Shaft Shop.

 

[Anticitizen1]

Is the length on that shaft useable with the factory slip yoke? I may try this to see if it helps my cause. It sounds like nobody has flat out broken a shaft or ujoint as a result yet, so worst case scenario if I cannot resolve the vibration I may just take the lesser of two evil shafts and then dynamat or equivalent insulate the snot out of the floorboards to at least lessen the annoyance of the resonant vibration. From a mechanical point of view however, the little voice in the back of my head doesn't let me just pretend it's not there haha.

 

[CDW6212R]

You don't want to drive too much with a bad vibration. That's hell for the bearings at the pinion and output shaft, if the drive shaft is surviving.

 

[Anticitizen1]

No I certainly don't want to, the driveshaft has spent more time in my garage then in the truck. I was just observing it seems a lot of people have been living with this vibration for some time, and while it is not good, I haven't heard anyone saying they have broken any components as of yet. I'm up in Connecticut, so I would certainly like to solve this before the snow flies.

 

[Turdle]

Mine got better after removing the double cardaan. Tried 2 rear shafts with same results. removing front shaft results in the "noise" still being present.

One thing is certain. This is a louder transfer case than the 4404 was. Man, you should hear what I hear now with the carpets all removed. The shifter hole isn't helping things either.

Still more better this way. Noisy or not. I would not switch it back.