Left high beam takes longer to transfer to low?

[Dylan2955]

Hi all,

Odd question, but after I turn my highbeams on, the left one stays on longer than slowly comes down, any idea why?

Video attached 20171114_212211.mp4

 

[peterk9]

Hi all,

Odd question, but after I turn my highbeams on, the left one stays on longer than slowly comes down, any idea why?

Video attached 20171114_212211.mp4

The high and low beams are controlled by a shutter. The shutter raises for high beam and partially lowers for low beam. My guess is that the shutter is sticking or binding. High and low use the same bulb. I believe the shutter device is part of the headlight housing.

Peter

 

[Dylan2955]

The high and low beams are controlled by a shutter. The shutter raises for high beam and partially lowers for low beam. My guess is that the shutter is sticking or binding. High and low use the same bulb. I believe the shutter device is part of the headlight housing.

Peter

Whats the best way to go about fixing this?

 

[peterk9]

Whats the best way to go about fixing this?

I'm afraid I really can't help with that since I'm not sure if that part is actually something that can be accessed and repaired or if it requires a complete headlight assembly replacement. I don't see an item that appears to be the shutter in the diagram. Headlamp Components for 2013 Ford Explorer | Ford Parts
I also don't recall that this issue has ever been reported here before so there is no additional info to fall back on. If no other member has any a info or suggestions then perhaps you may have to contact the dealer or a trusted repair facility in your area. If it requires a complete assembly replacement you could choose to live with it and hope that it doesn't become completely inoperative.

Peter

 

[sheltonfilms]

Yeah Peter is right. Its the shutter binding. There isn't a separate filament for hi and low beams so the shutter blocks the top portion of light for low beams and essentially moves out of the way when the high beams are called.

The head lights are a sealed assembly and about the only thing replaceable are the bulbs. When I saw sealed I mean SEALED. Newer headlights use a compound called Permaseal which is a hot melt polymer that hardens to the consistency of plastic. Older headlights used Butyl rubber, which all you had to do was head in an oven for 20 minutes and rip the leans off. The new Permaseal stuff you have to heat at a hotter temp and pry to break the brittle sealant and then have to keep prying and breaking. Then you have to scrape all the remnants out. Its a pain.

The only thing I can think of is removing the bulb and using a screwdriver to bend the shutter a little bit to keep it from binding. ONLY DO THIS AS A LAST RESORT BEFORE BUYING ANOTHER ASSEMBLY.

If you did want to go the route of opening them up you can also do an HID retrofit using something like EVOX-R projectors, HID bulbs, and ballasts. Alot of work but it would cost about the same as another headlight but your headlights would be just as good as a Mercedes.

Another option is to see if there is a local shop that does HID retrofits. They would have plenty of experience opening these lights up. The Retrofit Source in Atlanta is probably the biggest retrofitter in the US.

 

[1995E]

I would turn on high beams and low beams off rapidly and see if it will be un stuck.

 

[Dylan2955]

Yeah Peter is right. Its the shutter binding. There isn't a separate filament for hi and low beams so the shutter blocks the top portion of light for low beams and essentially moves out of the way when the high beams are called.

The head lights are a sealed assembly and about the only thing replaceable are the bulbs. When I saw sealed I mean SEALED. Newer headlights use a compound called Permaseal which is a hot melt polymer that hardens to the consistency of plastic. Older headlights used Butyl rubber, which all you had to do was head in an oven for 20 minutes and rip the leans off. The new Permaseal stuff you have to heat at a hotter temp and pry to break the brittle sealant and then have to keep prying and breaking. Then you have to scrape all the remnants out. Its a pain.

The only thing I can think of is removing the bulb and using a screwdriver to bend the shutter a little bit to keep it from binding. ONLY DO THIS AS A LAST RESORT BEFORE BUYING ANOTHER ASSEMBLY.

If you did want to go the route of opening them up you can also do an HID retrofit using something like EVOX-R projectors, HID bulbs, and ballasts. Alot of work but it would cost about the same as another headlight but your headlights would be just as good as a Mercedes.

Another option is to see if there is a local shop that does HID retrofits. They would have plenty of experience opening these lights up. The Retrofit Source in Atlanta is probably the biggest retrofitter in the US.

I would turn on high beams and low beams off rapidly and see if it will be un stuck.

Thanks for both inputs!

So here is where I stand: If the vehicle sits for a few hours in the cold (about 40 degrees) and I flip the highbeams the left side stays on and does not go back to low at all, after about 10 minutes the lens unsticks and goes to low beam. At this time if I flip the beam the left side will come down but still takes a few seconds (like in video)

If I drive the vehicle for 30mins with the lights on the high beams switch to low on both sides instantly, so its definitely heat related.

Ive put a new HID kit in it recently that I really like, I guess the projectors would be the next replacement. Its not too big of a deal so long as the lights warm up before I use beams.