Negative battery cable/Engine coolant temp sensor connector

[Rhaegal94]

I bought a negative battery cable for a '94 Explorer but it doesn't have the engine coolant temp sensor connector. Instead, it has two auxiliary connections. I found a battery cable replacement thread (91-94X Battery Cables) and ordered the negative battery cable mentioned from NAPA and it was the exact same cable; auxiliary connections but no connector.

So, should I take my existing connector and crimp it to the auxiliary connections on the new cable? Or, should I try to buy a new connector? There is a Motorcraft male connector listed on PartsGeek.com (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Connector) but the picture looks like a female connection.

Attached is a picture of the connector I'm talking about. I may be wrong in calling it an engine coolant temp sensor connector.

 

[natenkiki2004]

I think I know what you're talking about, there's 1 or 2 round connectors for the negative cable. They're not for the coolant temp sensor though. Honestly, just splice it however you can but please don't simply crimp. Solder and double-wall heatshrink with glue inside is the best way to go. Corrosion is very prevalent in these cables near the battery due to the acid. With crimped connectors, you're asking for trouble down the road.

 

[gmbroy]

I am going to agree with natenkiki , follow his suggestion to the T you cant go wrong .

 

[Rhett]

To the best of my knowledge, on the 1st gens there are 2 different connector sockets Ford used on the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor. And you're correct in calling it the engine coolant temp sensor -- there is also an "engine coolant temp sender" which is for the gauge. But the sensor is for the PCM.

When you buy a ECT sensor, some kits (Delphi, and Motorcraft) come with two different connector pigtails -- to cover all trucks, I guess. Anyway, they say you can splice in the other one, if you need it. I didn't know that had anything to do with the negative battery cable. Are you sure the neg cable is directly hooked to that sensor? That does not seem correct to me.

And yes I would solder and heat shrink as natenkiki suggests. I don't trust a crimp long-term in a high-vibration environment like the engine bay.

 

[Rhett]

Here's a pc of the Delphi ECT kit. Notice the extra pigtail connector. It even comes with crimpers and heat shrink tubing.

Here's a close up of the two connectors.

 

[Rhaegal94]

Thank you everyone for the tips. I thought crimping because both negative battery cables had the yellow butt connectors. I'll definitely go with soldering and dual wall heat shrink.

I'll need to go back and take a picture of the whole cable (it's been raining since my post). Like natenkiki mentioned, it's two rounded connectors. That's why I thought I would try the NAPA cable pictured below (1st pic) because that's the same rounded male connector. That connector connects to a rounded female connector which is bundled into some convoluted tubing/electrical tape and routes under the engine bay fuse box. The male connector pigtails are currently wrapped in some electrical tape and bundled with the main cable in convoluted tubing. Those temporary type terminals were added at some point.

The cable I ordered from NAPA ended up being the cable in the 2nd picture below. Which is the same cable I had previously ordered on Amazon.

 

[roscoe 0202]

that double connector is the computer ground definitely solder and heat shrink or you will have grounding problems.
roscoe
ps I usually crimp my connections with a solder crimp before soldering and heat shrinking.

 

[Rhett]

FYI...on my 94, the factory connector did not match the new ECT sensor...so I'm having to use the pigtail Delphi provided. The OEM wires are slightly smaller (12 guage vs. 10 guage it appears). NOW what I hear is that the sensor doesn't care about polarity..i.e. the two wires on the pigtail are both white, yet the OEM wiring is Gray/Red Stripe and Lt Green/Red Stripe (carries 5v).

i'll know for sure if that's true, once I solder it all up.

 

[Craggles]

Rhett can you provide an update on the results?

 

[natenkiki2004]

FYI...on my 94, the factory connector did not match the new ECT sensor...so I'm having to use the pigtail Delphi provided. The OEM wires are slightly smaller (12 guage vs. 10 guage it appears). NOW what I hear is that the sensor doesn't care about polarity..i.e. the two wires on the pigtail are both white, yet the OEM wiring is Gray/Red Stripe and Lt Green/Red Stripe (carries 5v).

i'll know for sure if that's true, once I solder it all up.

It's just a dumb resistor and works the same no matter the polarity. Any way you please!

 

[Rhett]

Rhett can you provide an update on the results?

Yes, it's working fine. I'm really hoping my solder and heatshrink job works long term, because if it doesn't I'll have to at least remove the throttle body to get to the joint again. I tried to be extra careful. I'm not the greatest solder-er. I'm the guy who solders a nice joint, and then realizes he forgot to put on the shrink wrap tube first.

Also word of advice, you have to run a fine line between having your wires too short vs. too long. Too long, and they can contact the throttle body opening mechanism and get caught in that. Too short, and they won't reach from the existing wiring harness to the connector...without unclamping part of the harness.

 

[Craggles]

Yes, it's working fine. I'm really hoping my solder and heatshrink job works long term, because if it doesn't I'll have to at least remove the throttle body to get to the joint again. I tried to be extra careful. I'm not the greatest solder-er. I'm the guy who solders a nice joint, and then realizes he forgot to put on the shrink wrap tube first.

Also word of advice, you have to run a fine line between having your wires too short vs. too long. Too long, and they can contact the throttle body opening mechanism and get caught in that. Too short, and they won't reach from the existing wiring harness to the connector...without unclamping part of the harness.

Thanks again Rhett. Btw, I'm an expert solder-er (trained by NASA actually). But I've also never soldered a joint without having to take it apart at least once to add the heatshrink I forgot...

 

[Rhaegal94]

FINALLY got the battery cables, starter solenoid and a new starter installed about 2 weeks ago. Started the installation a little after Thanksgiving. A friend did the soldering. The holdup was getting the top bolt of the starter out. Stripped the head so it turned into a battle. Also, the snow and below 0 weather didn't help. If I had been able to get the bolt out the same day, then everything would have been done that day or the next.