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Ford Explorer: Are Your Rear Brakes Dragging... Most Likely Yes!

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Rock Auto also shows heavy duty and standard pads for the 2015 Ex, these photos are for the 2015 model year, no different than the 2014's. The top image are heavy duty, they fit my 2014. The bottom ones are "standard" what was originally sent to me that I had to return. Notice how the tab's are completely different.
 



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So when is Ford going to accept responsibility for this issue? Just found out today I need both rear rotors calipers and pads. Lame
 






Highly doubtful you need new calipers. Corrosion causes the clip that the pad slides in to get "squeezed" by the corrosion. As stated numerous times on this thread removing the clip, snaps in and out very easily, take a wire brush to the rust, re-insert clips & pads, your done. I have put a coat of wheel bearing high temp grease in the slot to help with corrosion resistance.
 






Highly doubtful you need new calipers. Corrosion causes the clip that the pad slides in to get "squeezed" by the corrosion. As stated numerous times on this thread removing the clip, snaps in and out very easily, take a wire brush to the rust, re-insert clips & pads, your done. I have put a coat of wheel bearing high temp grease in the slot to help with corrosion resistance.

Anti-Seize compound is better. And use it very sparingly as any lubricant/grease will attract dirt.
 






Replaced my drivers side rear caliper a few months ago. 1 1/2 years ago i did my passenger side on my 2012 Explorer. Just put in a new washer fluid pump. 90K miles on it now! I wonder whats gonna happen next
 






Replaced my drivers side rear caliper a few months ago. 1 1/2 years ago i did my passenger side on my 2012 Explorer. Just put in a new washer fluid pump. 90K miles on it now! I wonder whats gonna happen next
Please add the trim level (Base, XLT, etc.) to your profile so it shows in the Margin. Thanks.

Peter
 






So when is Ford going to accept responsibility for this issue? Just found out today I need both rear rotors calipers and pads. Lame

Never is my guess.
Cost of recall - case settlements = savings/profit.
 






So has anyone with a '16 pulled their wheels off and done preventative maintenance on the clips and calipers? Thinking about doing mine over the next couple of weeks. Be nice to have some pics and/or video to provide a guide, is there one out there, would like to re-grease the sliding pins and clips.

By the way I had a 2011 Acadia , 4 yrs in, low mileage (60k km's) had exactly the same issue with rear brakes dragging, not just a Ford issue. Think the only way around it might be do some preventative lubrication/greasing on the caliper pins and clips.

Anyone that has pulled their wheels off be glad to hear some advice. Thanks !
 






So has anyone with a '16 pulled their wheels off and done preventative maintenance on the clips and calipers? Thinking about doing mine over the next couple of weeks. Be nice to have some pics and/or video to provide a guide, is there one out there, would like to re-grease the sliding pins and clips.

By the way I had a 2011 Acadia , 4 yrs in, low mileage (60k km's) had exactly the same issue with rear brakes dragging, not just a Ford issue. Think the only way around it might be do some preventative lubrication/greasing on the caliper pins and clips.

Anyone that has pulled their wheels off be glad to hear some advice. Thanks !

Yes, but I only lube the slider pins.
I do seasonal tire swaps and always poke around to see if anything is out of the norm and so far so good.
 






Can you give me a quick lesson in doing the slider pins on the Explorer, steps to get at them, do you have to take the calipers right off the rotor? Fronts and rears the same process? I've done brakes a few times in the past but it has been a few yrs since. Thanks !
 






Can you give me a quick lesson in doing the slider pins on the Explorer, steps to get at them, do you have to take the calipers right off the rotor? Fronts and rears the same process? I've done brakes a few times in the past but it has been a few yrs since. Thanks !

You can remove the slider pins without having to remove the caliper.
Just remove 1 pin at a time and hold the caliper down with one hand as you loosen it.

In the link below, the green arrows are pointing to the silder pins.
https://media.ed.edmunds-media.com/non-make/howto/howto_919113_600.jpg
 






Appreciate that, looks pretty straight forward.

I take it you have a GT500, live up in the 613/Ottawa area. Nice car! I'm in the London area, my toy is a '14 Vette I bought when the new model came out.

Edit 07/07

I did all 4 wheels, fronts were in great shape, backs a little messy looking , guess because they get the brunt of spray etc.. Pulled the caliper pins and greased with Permatex silicone brake grease , did the pads and clips with anti seize, cleaned everything with brake cleaner. Probably due it again in a couple of years. I have had the vehicle for 2 yrs but only 16k km's. Think every couple of years it is a good routine to follow, look at the pads and rotors to see if they need replacement at the time.

Thanks again!
 






For those that have had the rear calipers stick, there is a lot of heat generated and unfortunately the rear wheel bearings take the brunt. They are covered under the powertrain warranty but Ford will not fix them unless they can hear the noise. My exact words to them after the fixed the rear brake "and what happens to me wheel bearings?" The reply was oh they will be fine (yet they said the rotor was so hot it was at risk of exploding lol) One went under warranty, the other went after(yes both sides locked up). needless to say I do all my own brake services as the dealer will never take the 30min per side to get the rust of properly.

Also those that have the rear lock up, do a good claybar and wax on the rear liftgate. There will be a good amount of iron filings stuck to the clearcoat.

So was there a change to the rear brakes for 16+?
 






I just watched the video and the "fix" makes no sense to me. I am NOT suggesting that there is not a problem with the rear calipers, pads etc but as per the video the use of grease in the area behind the clips cannot possibly work. The issue as described is that the pads are not releasing and they are dragging. The shiny metal clips once installed do not move, they are locked into place. While grease on the surface behind the clips would help prevent corrosion on the caliper holder how can it have effect on the front of the clip where the tabs from the pads slide?

It forms a barrier to moisture and slows the corrosion. Giving you more time before the issue happens again.
 






For those that have had the rear calipers stick, there is a lot of heat generated and unfortunately the rear wheel bearings take the brunt. They are covered under the powertrain warranty but Ford will not fix them unless they can hear the noise. My exact words to them after the fixed the rear brake "and what happens to me wheel bearings?" The reply was oh they will be fine (yet they said the rotor was so hot it was at risk of exploding lol) One went under warranty, the other went after(yes both sides locked up). needless to say I do all my own brake services as the dealer will never take the 30min per side to get the rust of properly.

Also those that have the rear lock up, do a good claybar and wax on the rear liftgate. There will be a good amount of iron filings stuck to the clearcoat.

So was there a change to the rear brakes for 16+?

I just freed up one of my wife's front pads (I could hear it while she drove, it was just starting to grind away) ... but your comment re: the brake dust in the rear liftgate is really interesting to me. We bought a used 2012 and it had a whack of that on the liftgate, which I removed with a buffer. But, I'm betting it's from the damn pads back there. Thanks for the post. I'll pull them and service the sliders this weekend.
 






I am having my third set of rear brakes installed in 65,000 miles on my 2011. Already had both calipers and rotors replaced on the rear 14,000 miles ago. Ford really should step up and take some responsibility in this rear brake problem. Having to replace rear brakes every 14,000 miles is ridiculous. Our 2011 Edge is the same every 14,000 to 15,000 miles.

Owned many, many Fords along with other makes in the last 41 years and have never had brakes wear out this fast. Sadly, these two will be my last Fords.
 






I agree, have to replace rear brakes pads every second year in my 2011 explorer to prevent vehicle from becoming a death trap. My GM truck can go 5 years on a set of brakes/rotors. Very concerning.
 






I am surprised there hasn’t been a recall on this since it is a safety concern.
 






I just looked at my brakes, front and rear. I have the standard brakes. The rear pads have obviously been replaced, before I bought it at 57k miles. The rotors are wearing very unevenly, with spots on the left rear ranging from 11.1mm to 10.3mm, and the right 10.3 to 10.6mm. The front pads are going to be going soon as well, so I guess I'm going to be doing a full upgrade to the heavy duty brakes.
 



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I just looked at my brakes, front and rear. I have the standard brakes. The rear pads have obviously been replaced, before I bought it at 57k miles. The rotors are wearing very unevenly, with spots on the left rear ranging from 11.1mm to 10.3mm, and the right 10.3 to 10.6mm. The front pads are going to be going soon as well, so I guess I'm going to be doing a full upgrade to the heavy duty brakes.
Jon, depending on when yours was built it may or may not have heavy duty brakes.

Peter
 






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