How to: 1.5" body lift for less than $50

[Ronin8002]

DaaQ,

I don't know for sure if they'll work with the same bolts, might not be enough thread on them. Just gotta try and see. If the blocks you cut aren't more than an 1/8" out of square or so that probably won't matter much. If you go with 2" blocks I doubt the extra 1/2" will require a steering shaft extension.

 

[DaaQ]

DaaQ,

I don't know for sure if they'll work with the same bolts, might not be enough thread on them. Just gotta try and see. If the blocks you cut aren't more than an 1/8" out of square or so that probably won't matter much. If you go with 2" blocks I doubt the extra 1/2" will require a steering shaft extension.

2 of the bolts came up short, specifically the ones from infront of the front seats.
Did have to wind up getting some replacement bushings, went with the Dormans, replaced 6 of the 10. Made two under front seats work and the very last two just infront of the rear bumper work.

Now one thing I did run into that I ran around today looking for, is the brake lines coming off the (I assume) abs control or valve body have braided steel lines crimped into the steel lines that 3 drop straight down towards the frame rails from and they have 2 plastic clips securing them into their orientation ( 1 one the steel braid one on the steel line parts) well I forgot to look at and release the one that goes across the front cross member to passenger front, so as I lifted the body it pulled the lines thru that plastic clip around the braided portion and one was rusting out ( I think it would have failed pretty soon eventually) and broke at the bottom of the braid crimp section.
So this particular part was dealer only but is now discontinued. Part # 5L2Z-2263-A. So I will have to make my own. Dealer couldn't give me a definitive reason for the braided section, other than to allow flex. Which was my first thought, until looking at it for longer there really is no way for this area to flex. Unless it will allow for slight expansion while ABS is operating.
So am waiting on 2 bolts to show up Monday and have to deal with a broken brake line as well. The steering shaft only appears to have moved 1/2" from original position outward. Should be fine. Ground straps on frame had room. I did have to unbolt the hold down bracket that bolts close to where spare tire resides to allow some flex on the gas filler tubes. Haven't went back under to try and reattach yet. Since I've been chasing discontinued part all day.

All in all I would say the 2" blocks look good. I would drop the 2 shortest bolts listed in the 1.5" list and add x2 of the longest. IIRC it's 130mm -150mm lengths and 140mm would definitely work in place of the 2 shortest but so will 150mm.

For sure unclip the brake line and check at the braided portion while lifting the body especially if a Northern driven vehicle. Mine was in Michigan for 5 years. So if the crimp area of the brake line is rusting or corroded, it will probably pull apart if that plastic clip slides all the way down as the body is going up.

 

[Antho]

Nice write up I hope to do the 1.5" BL soon

 

[bbrown0414]

My buddy and I just did the 1.5" BL on my 04 XLT yesterday! It only took us 3.5 hours from start to finish! We didn't have to remove either of the bumpers.

Everything went pretty smooth, but we did have a couple small glitches. The locking oil filter wrench from Harbor Freight is a must for this! They make holding the metal disc a breeze! I didn't spray the bolts prior to doing this, we just sprayed them right before we started and then took a mini torch (from Harbor Freight also) and hit them for 45-60 seconds then used an impact. Worked like a charm!

Now for the small glitches:
1) The bolts from the front "A" mounts did not work on the "C" mounts under the driver seats, they were too short. I went to Home Depot and got the longest 12 x 1.75 bolts the had (100 mm) and they worked perfectly!

2) The new rear "E" bolts were too long. Since the original front "A" bolts were too short for the "C" mounts, I used those for the rear "E" mounts.

To make that a little easier to understand, here is my update to the original post of the bolts I used:

A= You'll need to order 2 replacements, but save the old ones. The new size is 12mm x 1.75 x 120mm. Bolt depot part number is 6135. If you don't use Bolt Depot make sure to get ones that are threaded for the whole length (this is for the front only, the rest can just have the end threaded).

B= You'll need to order 2 replacements, but save the old ones. The new size is 12mm x 1.75 x 150mm. Bolt depot part number is 6274.

C= You'll need to get 2 replacements size 12mm x 1.75 x 100mm.

D= You can re-use the old "B" bolts you took from the front seat foot area here.

E= You can re-use the old "A" bolts you took from the front bumper mounts.

 

[morziac]

Just did this body lift using the lengths given. I think a couple of them could be shorter, but nice n easy lift. I used rubber type blocks, which squashed a little so I'd like to replace them with aluminium or steel centred ones. Does anyone know if I can put 2" blocks in instead and not have any dramas? Surely another 1/2" won't cause problems?

 

[bbrown0414]

Someone in this thread did 2". I don't remember who, but if you read through the thread you will find it.

 

[morziac]

Someone in this thread did 2". I don't remember who, but if you read through the thread you will find it.

Finally had time to read through all the pages. Looks like I'll be getting some 2" alloy blocks and going down that path instead

Cheers guys, great thread

 

[Lucky-Phill]

Great description and support very happy with the results. I found no issues that had not already been documented.

I purchased a lenght on HDPE rod and made my own spacers & welded nuts onto the 3 rear pucks on each side not going through that **** again if I ever have to do any maintenance.

Thanks heaps guys for the invaluable support.

 

[jsfordboy02]

I did this install and made a couple videos about the process, another one is coming:

 

[Detainabull]

Anyone know what the bolt lengths are for a 3in body lift? Have the blocks just need to buy bolts to complete it

 

[Mountymaniac]

Those aren't grade 8 bolts. Those are 8.8 metric which is more like a grade 5. Metric 10.9 (grade 8) are impossible to find in those lengths. Think grade 5s are ok?

 

[JW]

I'm considering doing this, except using the 2" blocks from Zone. That increases the bolt length by 12.7mm (.5" = 12.7mm), but the bolts are all in increments of 10mm. Anyone think not having that extra 3mm of thread would be a bad thing? Or should I just go with the next size up and trim them as needed?

 

[JW]

Those aren't grade 8 bolts. Those are 8.8 metric which is more like a grade 5. Metric 10.9 (grade 8) are impossible to find in those lengths. Think grade 5s are ok?

The part numbers originally mentioned from Bolt Depot are all grade 8.8.

Fastenal has all of them in grade 10.9, in zinc and yellow zinc (twice as much). Part numbers for each, for a 1.5" or 2" lift, are shown below. The fully threaded bolts (location A) come in limited lengths as noted. "Overlength" refers to my post above.

 

[07gtman]

after you put on the tires was your speedo reading incorrectly? If so how is the fix done?

 

[JW]

I corrected it with my SCT iTSX tuner. All I had to do was calculate tire circumference and enter it into the tuner.

 

[JimmyZ30024]

OK, so the factory body mounts on our (new to us) 2003 Explorer Sport are all rotted and falling apart. I figured since I'm going to replace them I might as well do this 1 1/2" lift too. Bought all the lift parts and some new urethane body mounts. Now I have a couple question. What did y'all do to the front bumper cover? Does it just move up with the body lift? What about the metal impact bumper under it?

 

[07gtman]

i did my 05 mounty i bought all new bolts..Expect the front to be a pita..the only part of the front i had a small issue with was the center part of the grill, Mine was cracked when i bought the truck,.and i did not remove the steering shaft. I removed the bolts from one side of the truck and slowly lifted it just enough to slip the 1/12 body body mount in.It took my son and i about ten hours to complete the lift with no bumper issues at all..good luck let us know how it goes.....

 

[JimmyZ30024]

I finished my 1 1/2" body lift today. Also installed all new urethane body mounts, rear add a leaf, 4 new shocks, 2" rear shock extenders, and turned the torsion bars 3 cranks.

 

[palavine1951]

Body Mount Bushings Kit - 2001 to 2003 Ford Explorer Sport - DST dfm002 from www.suspension.com for $162.66. This is the only body bushing kit that is made for 2001 to 2003 Ex Sport and it fits perfectly. I just did mine and I added a 1in spacer between the mount and the body. Wow, I now have room to work with my 302 swap. I had to replace all the bolts and washers because of the additional lift. As you can see the original mounts were toast

 

[Mountymaniac]

The part numbers originally mentioned from Bolt Depot are all grade 8.8.

Fastenal has all of them in grade 10.9, in zinc and yellow zinc (twice as much). Part numbers for each, for a 1.5" or 2" lift, are shown below. The fully threaded bolts (location A) come in limited lengths as noted. "Overlength" refers to my post above.

View attachment 156325

Lol I'm not trying to argue and I'm sure their fine. Just pointing out that a Metric grade 8.8 is not a grade 8. Actually a grade 10.9 is a grade 8 lol Its hard to explain. Lemme see if I can find and attach a chart or somthing.