What device to read/clear airbag codes?

[sehaare]

Hi,

1998 SOHC 4WD XLT, NO side airbags. My daughter left the headlights on and drained down the battery to the point that there was no dome light. After charging the battery and starting the car the airbag light comes one. Battery is getting pretty old, so after reading articles here, I'm hoping that it is some type of low battery issue and that I just need to get a new battery. But I need to read the codes first, before I just go buy a new battery.

My OBD2 code reader does not read airbag codes. A quick look finds code readers for airbag codes that cost more than $100. I see some devices that appear to hook up to a laptop for a lot less.

The technology for code readers had changed greatly since these cars came out. What cheap device does everyone recommend to retrieve airbag codes. And if it does just use a laptop, where do I get the software for the laptop from? (56 year old guy here, that uses a laptop everyday, but obviously not up to speed on latest software like a 20 year old would be).

A link to amazon would be perfect.

Thanks in advance

 

[J_C]

I would have thought that an airbag code was a problem with the airbag itself, but would first try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Sometimes when in a low voltage state the electronics can go wonky and give false error codes.

 

[koda2000]

When I've had the airbag light on it blinked a code 3-6 or 3-7. That tells you which of the front air bags it isn't happy with. Often the resistor under the seats (yellow cap) is the problem. It's there to fool the system into thinking the side airbags (which most Ex's don't have) are there. I've found that if I wiggle the yellow caps around my airbag light goes out. Rear seat passengers can kick the yellow resistor caps and set off the air bag light.

 

[gatzdon]

You should be able to pick up a cheap Bluetooth OBD reader on Amazon. Make sure it's covered by Amazon Prime so you can return for free if you have any issues.

Use Forscan Lite (Android App ~ $5) to read all extended codes.

Don't randomly clear codes. Look up what the codes mean and troubleshoot accordingly. Most Airbag codes clear automatically on their own once the condition is fixed.

 

[J_C]

Don't randomly clear codes. Look up what the codes mean and troubleshoot accordingly. Most Airbag codes clear automatically on their own once the condition is fixed.

I suppose there is a tiny chance that someone will soon get into a wreck and need their airbag, but otherwise if this code is cleared and there is a fault, it should just come back. It seems less risky to me than ignoring some fault which might damage an engine.

 

[koda2000]

I suppose there is a tiny chance that someone will soon get into a wreck and need their airbag, but otherwise if this code is cleared and there is a fault, it should just come back. It seems less risky to me than ignoring some fault which might damage an engine.

In my case for codes 3-6/3-7, once I wiggled the aforementioned yellow resistor caps the airbag light went out all by itself. I think this only occasionally occurs on my daughter's '00 Mountaineer because she and my grandson tend to stuff a lot of crap under the front seats.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Get an ELM327 and a copy of Forscan on a windows laptop. You can break down the code from the restraint system, and you can check each sensor on the restraint system and see exactly what is going on. I used it to find a bad connection in the curtain airbag in my wife's escape. Its a pretty slick setup. Just like this,

 

[sehaare]

Don't randomly clear codes. Look up what the codes mean and troubleshoot accordingly. Most Airbag codes clear automatically on their own once the condition is fixed.

only two reasons to clear a code. one would be to clear the the code to see if it came back in. These cars are getting old enough that they will throw some spurious codes and if it is a valid issue then it will come back in after clearing it. the second reason would be to clear the code after you think that you have fixed the issue, to see if you really did fix it or does the code come back.

 

[sehaare]

Get an ELM327 and a copy of Forscan on a windows laptop. You can break down the code from the restraint system, and you can check each sensor on the restraint system and see exactly what is going on. I used it to find a bad connection in the curtain airbag in my wife's escape. Its a pretty slick setup. Just like this,

Thanks, after researching the issue I found out that I needed this to clear the code after I fixed it - bought the $20 version on amazon and downloaded the free forescan and now the Air bag light is out and system works.

 

[sehaare]

Posting to close the loop on this, in case anyone stumbles on to this thread in the future.

There is an issue with the ford airbag system that can occur if you run the battery completely dead (as my daughter found out). When the voltage to the air bag system drop to below 8 volts the air bag indicator will flash a 12 code which is what I had. If it goes below 5 bolts it also stores a DTC (trouble code). In my case the voltage got so low that the air bag circuit got confused and thought that there was a short to ground and to prevent the airbag from activation when it shouldn't, it has a circuit that automatically blow one of the two fuses to the air bag system (the 10 amp one).

Now for the 98 specifically - I have the official Ford shop manual and it said that the fuse that it will blow would be mini fuse #13 in the power distribution box, but the 98 does not have a fuse in this position (or at least the 98 xlt SOHC 4WD model doesn't). Luckily I also have the ford official electrical, vacuum and troubleshooting manual and it showed on the electrical schematic that it was actually mini fuse #5 that should be blown and it was.

Once I replaced the fuse, the 12 code changed to a 52 code as the manual said it would once the voltage issue was fixed. Now here is the issue, this code locks in and there are only three ways to get it to clear it, go to a mechanic and pay them to clear it, go through the start up cycle 256 times without a fault (after that it runs out of memory and the code is cleared) or buy the ELM 327 and download Forcan as was recommended to me above. I bought one for $19 on amazon and it worked like a champ.

Now one final caution, you must disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal before pulling the 10 amp fuse (#13 or #5 depending on your explorer year) or the air bag circuit will blow the fuse for you (I think when you put it back in). That is clearly stated in the shop manual.

Good Luck

PS if anyone disagrees with any of this I can scan in the ford manual pages as proof.

 

[J_C]

It seems dubious to me that the fuse would intentionally be blown. Yes post the manual pages. it can only be a positive thing. and adds to the knowledge base about this issue.

 

[sehaare]

It seems dubious to me that the fuse would intentionally be blown. Yes post the manual pages. it can only be a positive thing. and adds to the knowledge base about this issue.

What site is everyone using to upload pictures now that photobucket won't let you link for free anymore?

 

[sehaare]

Dubious or not, here it is in black and white from the ford shop manuals. The first page has the warning to disconnect negative cable before pulling the fuse (you can search and find where people have accidently pulled this fuse by mistake and it has blown -giving them the 1-2 code). The first page also discusses the circuit that will automatically blow the fuse.

The second page may be just valid for the 98 only and shows that the fuse in question is actually the #5 mini fuse not the #13 mini fuse, which is a good thing because there was no fuse in the #13 position on my 98 and I'm the original owner.

 

[koda2000]

I use imgur to upload pics now.

 

[sehaare]

I use imgur to upload pics now.

that's what I ended up using for the scans

 

[J_C]

Thanks. I meant it seems dubious that they would design it this way but they must have felt this was the lesser of two evils.