New Explorer

[Iowa_XLT]

Hello everybody,
I am new to explorers, just bought a 1998 Explorer XLT with the SOHC V6 the other day. Only at 110,000 miles. In terms of maintenance or preventative maintenance, what are some of the first things I should do to keep it running great? Certain oils, filters, or parts that would help?

 

[J_C]

Just general stuff, standard 5W30 major brand oil or synthetic if your wallet will handle it, any of the filters liked on Bobistheoilguy.com, though the Motorcraft FL1A is good for the money, can be found various places for $3-4.

The rest, depends on whether it was taken care of or rode hard and put away wet. If it has original spark plugs and wires then it's due for that now, originals were spec'd 100K mi change interval. Use double platinum or iridium. Check the owner's manual for maintenance intervals, it's probably due for new transmission, differential, and transfer case fluids if they're the originals.

Being an SUV you might be due for some suspension parts. I'd lift it, take the wheels off and poke and pry on suspension parts, look at the CV joint, tie rods, and ball joints grease boots for tears. If your area salts the roads in winter then you might want to take a close look at the brake lines, especially the one on the rear axle going from the left to right side.

Listen for timing chain rattle. The SOHC engine will eventually grenade when the plastic timing guides fall apart, chain jumps, and the valves hit the pistons. Most of us would not buy the SOHC today due to this, though you might get lucky considering it only has 110K mi. I haven't taken a poll or anything but it usually happens closer to 200K mi. (YMMV).

 

[XLTrunner]

You are going to hear all kinds of disparaging remarks about buying a SOHC engine Explorer on this site. Yeah...it may not be as robust as the V8, but there is no reason not to expect 200K + miles on it with gentle driving before the engine's cam guides/tensioners start to self destruct. Besides, when was 200K miles on a vehicle considered a poor life cycle? Vehicles in our part of the country have usually succumbed to rust by then, anyhow.

As for maintenance, unless the previous owner kept meticulous records, you need to assume the worst and set your own benchmarks by changing oil, plugs, wires, fuel & air filters, etc. I'd also change the differential fluids; along with the tranny and transfer case fluid. And speaking of transfer case, here's some info that is imperative you adhere to...always run the same tires (make, size and tread depth) on all four wheels. You WILL experience an early demise of your transfer case if you don't.

 

[ghosttrain2]

I installed a 4.0 SOHC in my '94 Explorer 9 years ago, it has 162,000 miles on it now... I replaced both of the chain tensioners at the first sound of a rattle on cold start, and it has not made any other noise. There are two of them, one is on the passengers side rear of the engine, the other requires the intake to be removed to replace. Both fairly simple to do. You tube video on replacing the one on the right side.

 

[Iowa_XLT]

Appreciate all the advice. It has all maintenance records and was meticulously maintained by the previous owner. I will probably change all the fluids very soon. It does have the rattle. Is there a good place anybody knows of to buy tensioners? Again, I really appreciate all of the advice.

 

[J_C]

You are going to hear all kinds of disparaging remarks about buying a SOHC engine Explorer on this site. Yeah...it may not be as robust as the V8, but there is no reason not to expect 200K + miles on it with gentle driving before the engine's cam guides/tensioners start to self destruct. Besides, when was 200K miles on a vehicle considered a poor life cycle? Vehicles in our part of the country have usually succumbed to rust by then, anyhow.

The thing is, 200K is just some kind of rough average, with some having it happen before 100K mi and others getting over 250K mi.

It can't be assumed to wear based strictly on mileage. Maybe long trips with long exposure to hot oil exacerbates it. Maybe short trips with higher # of thermal cycles and more oil contaminates per mile does. Maybe it's neglecting oil changes but you probably won't see people admitting to that.

IMO, it's one thing to already own one and have an investment, knowing the history, having done repairs, and looking to keep what you have running. It's something else to look for another tour of duty out of a flawed design where the repair costs more than the bluebook value.... which is roughly $300 at a junkyard once one "needs" this repair.

Granted by needs I mean on the brink of failure, from what I've read some can go 10's of thousands of miles between the first sign of noise and complete failure, but I've also seen some report that they had little to no noise before failure. It is possible some owners have bad hearing.

Fortunately they're still a lot of vehicle for the money, even if it only lasts a year or two, at average market price it's still cost effective to own one.

 

[donalds]

Appreciate all the advice. It has all maintenance records and was meticulously maintained by the previous owner. I will probably change all the fluids very soon. It does have the rattle. Is there a good place anybody knows of to buy tensioners? Again, I really appreciate all of the advice.

If it was me and it was lol
Get them tensioners from ford dealership only

 

[Mbrooks420]

If it’s rattling now, you are looking at pulling the motor to repair it properly. Expect several hundred dollars and a FULL weekend of work. Plenty of help here as it’s very common, and many members have done it. If you push it and jump time, you will likely ruin the engine to the point it’s not worth fixing.

How rusty is is underneath?

 

[donalds]

Also you can drive it easy to make it last until you fix it right

My wife drove ours for 50,000 miles before we replaced the engine for other reasons

When I had the startup rattle I installed a pre oiler and never heard that sound again
You may want to look into it

 

[donalds]

This is the kit I got

Engine Pre Lube System Insta-Lube Kit

 

[Iowa_XLT]

Thanks for all the advice! It is not that rusty underneath. So do the tensioners just bandaid the timing chain problem? And would the pre Oiler kit fix it long term?

 

[Iowa_XLT]

Basically, it’s bone stock. I just want to fix the rattle and make it as reliable as possible, before I start doing modifications to it.

 

[donalds]

I put the pre oiler on mine worth every penny
Do a little bit of research on it
Many members have done it just search pre oiler



The chain guide s are a little worn out the pre oiler pumps up the tensioner s be for you start the engine worked so well for me I put it back on when I put in a new engine
If there is no rattle in any rpm range other than startup than it will stop the rattle for good we rAn it for 50000 plus miles and never heard that rattle again
This rattle is not why I put in a new engine it had valve train noise needed new top end
If I did not have top end problems It would still be on the original engine witch had 280 000 miles on it

 

[donalds]

Here is a vid it's on a jag but it's the same problem




Hope this helps

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Idea: Before you get into substantial repairs or pre-oiler install, you can pump the gas all the way to floor for five to eight seconds. This shuts off the fuel injection. Then start the engine, which will be fully "pre-oiled".

These engines can be tough, and I believe that the stock 4.0 SOHC had more horsepower and got better mileage than the stock V-8.

Good luck.

 

[donalds]

I tried to get my wife to hold the gas pedal down
That lasted a week
The pre oiler is instant
But to each his own

Just posted what worked for me and everyone I know that has an explorer