Head Install | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Head Install

massacre

Elite Explorer
Joined
January 24, 2018
Messages
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City, State
Massachusetts
Year, Model & Trim Level
‘94 Explorer
‘19 Nautilus
i will be removing heads on my ‘94 to install new heads. Need to swap over pushrods, lifters, rockers.
Truck has like 97K miles or so. Also need to replace cooling system stuff like thermostat water pump radiator etc.

I will probably have some questions along the way, any help with parts recommendations etc would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks and have a nice day
 



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So far I have removed the upper intake. All elec connectors and vacuum lines are labeled, AC, power steering and alt removed, fan & shroud removed. Upper EGR nut removed still have to get it at the bottom.

A couple of things broke. 1 of the mounting ears on the PS pump split in half, that was weird. And 1 of the water pump pulley hub flanges broke off while loosening the fan nut. I had a prybar wedged in there to hold the pulley. I know I should have used the proper tool but I am planning on replacing the water pump and power steering pump anyways so not a huge deal. PB blaster and mapp has worked with a cheater bar on the EGR nut.
 






Also bought a power steering pump puller removal tool and removed the pulley
 






Was able to remove coil and wires, plugs. Valve covers, lower intake, fuel tail & injectors.

Harness is moved completely out of the way on pass side. Driver’s side still attached at low oil sensor. Lore EGR nut is being a pain soaking now.
Exhaust is prob going to be the hardest part. Living in salt and snow plus the exhaust manifolds running hot for a while I don’t have a lot of faith in them coming off easily.

Is there a good source for injector o-rings? Mine are in terrible shape
Thanks
 






Went to rock auto and looked up parts, does this forum have a discount code?

Thanks

Also, I want to replace the cam synchro since I am right there. Where am I supposed to position the crank so it is in the right position? I have a degree wheel if need be.
Boy that thing is in an inconvenient location lol
 






Was able to remove coil and wires, plugs. Valve covers, lower intake, fuel tail & injectors.

Harness is moved completely out of the way on pass side. Driver’s side still attached at low oil sensor. Lore EGR nut is being a pain soaking now.
Exhaust is prob going to be the hardest part. Living in salt and snow plus the exhaust manifolds running hot for a while I don’t have a lot of faith in them coming off easily.

Is there a good source for injector o-rings? Mine are in terrible shape
Thanks
I just grabbed my injector o-rings from the local Oreilly auto parts. They really weren't anything special.

~Mark
 






I just grabbed my injector o-rings from the local Oreilly auto parts. They really weren't anything special.

~Mark

Thank you!
 






Going to try and get the exhaust off today. I have new manifolds coming, I want to remove heads with old manifolds attached if possible so I can remove manifold bolts off the vehicle using mapp gas. I know the bolts like to break.

Ordered a ton of parts too. Mostly gaskets. Going to remove crank pulley so I can replace timing cover gasket as well.
 






There is a specific tool and sequence to timing the cam sensor. You use a harness and a voltmeter to properly set it up. I'll see if I can find the info on it. It's been years since I did this myself. I rebuilt the engine in my 94 Eddie and converted to a 5 speed. That's been over 10 years ago now, kinda weird when you think about it!!
 






Heat will definitely be your friend while getting the manifold bolts loose. I removed the heads from the truck with manifolds attached, so I could work on them easier. Also, they will tend to loosen over time. I'm fighting that still on my Eddie.
 






Just got inside drivers side manifold to y pipe bolt out with pb blaster and just being careful.
Rounded the outside driver’s so I have to take the air chisel to it
My least favorite tool
But I can’t get cutoff wheel in there not enough room

What about dipstick tube, can driver’s head come off around it? Can it removed easily without breaking it?

Thanks
 






Nevermind was able to get drivers manifold off. Surprisingly none of the manifold to head bolts broke which was nice. Had to air chisel through the flange. Working on pass side now
With extensions and breaker bar i can move them a little.
 






Heads are off
Had to air chisel both exhaust flanges it was just the quickest way. The exhaust on this truck is welded entirely so it will have to be cut off and replaced anyways.

Looks like 4 of the 6 chambers had coolant in them, looks like hairline cracks between the valves. Exhaust valves are all white, was hard to tell from old head gasket where leak was.

Going to call it a day anyways, it’s hot as hell here and I long since sweated through my clothes. Time for a shower and a beer, parts shipped today so I still have some time.
I need to remove the steering box because that is getting replaced as well as the lines.

I haven’t removed the cam synchro but the crank is at the line on the balancer that says “D” on it. #1 piston seems to be at TDC or damn close.

Still have to pull balancer too and water pump for timing cover gasket.

Is it true that the heads and lower intake have to be torqued together in 15 minutes? That might be a challenge by myself might have to practice lol
 






You musn't have much rust on your truck. I've done this similar task now on 3 of mine, and never gotten all the bolts out in one piece. There were at least two of the upper most ones that needed drilled and tapped out.

You are either really careful or lucky! Not only are they prone to rust because the holes are through-drilled, but the bolts are locking type. If you look closely at the threads, you will see a slight triangular shape to them. The bolt isn't perfectly round. This acts to keep them from loosening from the factory. Ford recommends replacing them upon removal.

Mine have loosened over time, I suspect because I reused the bolts, and some were replaced using regular grade bolts from Lowe's. I haven't tried yet but red loctite may do the trick.
 






You musn't have much rust on your truck. I've done this similar task now on 3 of mine, and never gotten all the bolts out in one piece. There were at least two of the upper most ones that needed drilled and tapped out.

You are either really careful or lucky! Not only are they prone to rust because the holes are through-drilled, but the bolts are locking type. If you look closely at the threads, you will see a slight triangular shape to them. The bolt isn't perfectly round. This acts to keep them from loosening from the factory. Ford recommends replacing them upon removal.

Mine have loosened over time, I suspect because I reused the bolts, and some were replaced using regular grade bolts from Lowe's. I haven't tried yet but red loctite may do the trick.

Well I sprayed them up for a couple days beforehand, spraying into the ends that stuck out, and yes very careful making sure ratchet was not too long of a handle and going slow and steady. I am not usually a lucky person haha but maybe this time
 






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......
Is it true that the heads and lower intake have to be torqued together in 15 minutes? That might be a challenge by myself might have to practice lol
I have never heard this, but all my work has been on 2000 model year engines (ohv).
I waited until the next day to reattach the lower intake manifold, after torqueing the heads.

I strongly suggest to use the tool to remove and replace the harmonic balancer. Do not tap it on or off using a hammer. I feel that's what contributes to crank failure later on.
 






Thanks I used the tool
 






Nice work thus far!
The 15 minute thing is not always possible and as long as you are careful when doing the lower intake, silicon in the correct spots, torque properly, etc you will be fine
 



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Nice work thus far!
The 15 minute thing is not always possible and as long as you are careful when doing the lower intake, silicon in the correct spots, torque properly, etc you will be fine

Well I was going to have a buddy come over to give me a hand with the torquing process.

I prefer to use the Right Stuff instead of silicone/RTV. But I think I will go with what is recommended by others.

Thanks for the reply
 






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