What vacuum line is this?

[beach]

Heard hissing sound and found that vacuum line busted. I can see where it goes at the top, but from bottom part not sure what it attaches too as hard to see. What line is this, or name, so I can replace it.

 

[koda2000]

Judging from the size and location (and the black stuff on your thumb) I'd guess it's off the emissions purge valve located under the battery.

 

[beach]

Judging from the size and location (and the black stuff on your thumb) I'd guess it's off the emissions purge valve located under the battery.

I'll have to check when its brighter out tomorrow, but could I just use any vacuum line replacement and cut to fit if needed and stick on? Looking through Haynes manual and see nothing of what that line is unless its called something else.

 

[koda2000]

I'll have to check when its brighter out tomorrow, but could I just use any vacuum line replacement and cut to fit if needed and stick on? Looking through Haynes manual and see nothing of what that line is unless its called something else.

IDK if regular vacuum line would hold up to the fuel fumes. I do know that that hose tends to rot, hence the black stuff on your hands. In a pinch regular vacuum line would be better than nothing and I suppose it would last for a while.

 

[beach]

IDK if regular vacuum line would hold up to the fuel fumes. I do know that that hose tends to rot, hence the black stuff on your hands. In a pinch regular vacuum line would be better than nothing and I suppose it would last for a while.

Engine bays dirty so black stuff was from touching anything lol, was checking one of the radiator hoses as well and got covered in black dirt.

I guess I'm just confused as I can't find anything in the Haynes manual listing what it is, or if its even the emissions purge valve line? Searching online and can't find replacement hose. How the heck is this replaced lol? Unless its called something else.

Haynes manual emissions image for the 5.0 list everything, except this line, I can see it in the pic but its not labeled.

 

[410Fortune]

Canister purge solenoid
Canister vent solenoid

I would mcgyver it (and have several times in the past)
Which means get some good 1/4" or 3/8" fuel line and splice a new piece in between the intake and the EVAP canister vent solenoid that is mounted under your battery tray.

This is the fuel canister (CHARCOAL) canister purge line, at wide open throttle the computer opens the canister purge valve and the canister vent valve and allows fuel vapor from the top of the fuel tank to be sucked into the intake and burned through the combustion chambers. These is a canister vent and a canister purge on these trucks simply because the charcoal canister is mounted back above your spare tire.......

 

[koda2000]

Personally I find Haynes and Chilton manuals pretty useless. Consider that they cover multiple years and models and how thin they are compared to multi-volume OE shop manuals. They can't and don't cover everything.

Assuming that hose is the one that should be connected to the emissions purge valve (and that's the only hose of that diameter that I'm aware of located on that side of the engine bay) it's important.

The fuel tank is connected to the charcoal canister, which is located over the spare tire. Then there is a hose/line that runs up to the engine bay. The emissions purge valve is located under the battery. If you remove the battery and its tray you can see it easily. When the engine is running the purge valve is opened and fuel fumes are sucked into the engine and burned. The hose runs from the purge valve to the intake manifold. The hose must be connected (or at least plugged) to prevent un-monitored air (air not monitored by the MAF sensor) from entering the engine. Running the engine with this line open will cause the engine to run lean, which should set the check engine light on with lean P0171/P0174 codes. Running the engine like this (too much air and not enough fuel) causes it to run very hot. At a minimum you should plug the open hose immediately. You will probably still see the CEL come on with a code indicating a gross emissions leak. Replace the hose as soon as you can and clear the codes and you should be fine.

 

[fjones]

I have a 1998 Explorer V8 and that hose is attached to the green connector under the battery.

 

[koda2000]

I have a 1998 Explorer V8 and that hose is attached to the green connector under the battery.

That would be the emissions purge valve.

 

[beach]

That would be the emissions purge valve.

Canister purge solenoid
Canister vent solenoid

I would mcgyver it (and have several times in the past)
Which means get some good 1/4" or 3/8" fuel line and splice a new piece in between the intake and the EVAP canister vent solenoid that is mounted under your battery tray.

This is the fuel canister (CHARCOAL) canister purge line, at wide open throttle the computer opens the canister purge valve and the canister vent valve and allows fuel vapor from the top of the fuel tank to be sucked into the intake and burned through the combustion chambers. These is a canister vent and a canister purge on these trucks simply because the charcoal canister is mounted back above your spare tire.......

So does the line just come off that adapter on top of the engine, I can twist the line so I think its just on like a normal line but tried pulling it and it won't come off. Can I remove that adapter its connected to? Looks like theres some clip mechanism but didn't really look/feel around as engine is hot right now lol. Just checking before something breaks as I tried pulling it but it won't come off, it does twist though, but when I pull that assembly its connected to moves/pulls as well and don't want to f' it up.

Weird thing, so I grabbed pieces of 1/4 and 3/8 fuel hose to compare, the line on my truck the hole is about size of the 1/4, yet out diameter hose is larger and seems to match 3/8 except its inner hole is larger.

 

[fjones]

Pull the plastic clip out and it should release the line. You will need a screwdriver to pull the clip out.

 

[rigbyrigz]

Hi, is there any chance someone knows the name or part number of this important hose that appears to run from the intake manifold to the emissions purge valve (under battery?)

(Among other issues) on my 2000 Mercury Mountaineer V8 5.0L, this hose appears collapsed and looks sucked in or flat in places; perhaps dry rot.

I'd be so grateful just for the a clue as what to look for so as to order from eBay, Amazon, Advance, etc; if I simply want to replace it with the actual exact same hose to spec (rather than ghetto it). As mentioned above, this exact item hose seems absent from all available schematics and diagrams documentation or parts lists; thanks.

 

[EB4X]

Autozone (as I would guess many others) has multiple sizes (diameters) of vacuum hoses on spools to choose from.... purchase by the foot....etc...

 

[rigbyrigz]

Autozone (as I would guess many others) has multiple sizes (diameters) of vacuum hoses on spools to choose from.... purchase by the foot....etc...

OK cool. I exhausted google and looked at 200 hoses (for my MM V8) at Advance: nothing found. Will try Autozone, thanks.

UPD. (for my Vehicle) Search-Keyed in hose, vacuum, evap, etc at Autozone... same specific hoses as Advance and others show up, but nothing that fits the bill. Yes, some plain old hose of whatever size can be be purchased (off a spool or elsewhere); trying to avoid that route due to limited resources, skills, tools, and related issues.

 

[swshawaii]

Most custom molded EVAP hoses have been long discontinued. @EB4X has the best suggestion using the correct I.D. vacuum hose. Fuel line or fuel injection line would be even better because it's vapor resistant and won't deteriorate. Link below is from my 4.0L SOHC. Reused the plastic fittings and slightly rerouted the hoses. To prevent damage to the plastic fittings, CAREFULLY slit the ends length wise with a razor knife or similar, and peel the hose off. Lightly coat the fitting nipples with silicone or dielectric grease and the hoses will slide on easily. May not look factory, but should be an acceptable long term solution. Good luck.

Anyone Else Have EVAP Hose Rot?

Touched the purge valve hose (4L5Z9G271BA) connected to the manifold and my hand turned solid black. It's also known as the Vapor Management Valve next to the power distribution box. Searched for an OEM replacement with no luck and used 3/8" Gates Barricade® Fuel Injection Hose (MPI) found at...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, those emissions lines run to the control valve under the battery, and from there back to the charcoal canisters above the spare tire area.

I don't have any 302 pictures, just my old 99 SOHC stuff. There's a few lengths of plastic and rubber hose on the SOHC engines, they run from both side of the upper intake, down the front of the engine, to the purge valve under the battery. I'd try a large EFI fuel line if it's available in that size, it looks to be about 3/8" or close to that. If a V6 was handy some of that hose might be long enough to replace it on a 302. The connectors at the purge valve and the AL line along the frame should be the same parts, but the hoses are obviously different.

 

[rigbyrigz]

Thanks (all) for guidance and pics and assistance. Seems this hose does not go to the purge valve per se, but more like the above write-up. Anyway, helper here found some suitable unused hose in our mini-shop, not sure if fuel-line or what, and cut and trimmed it to replace... OK...

The sputter and hiccup - bucking stopped, idled mostly smooth, and have driven it 3 times since. Got a P0171 (rather than P0171 AND P0174 both) so far, and leaving it in case the reLearning clears it by itself.

Haven't really pushed it over 60; in fact 3 times (of 10) I was at 55 giving it gas and instead it dropped to 50 as I gave more acceleration... but at 50 each time, it seemed to smooth out and recover. The other driving, maybe a small shudder now and then when idling, seems OK. I have deferred the spark plugs n wiring replacement, on word (i'm trying to verify) that my inmate nephew replaced all 8 last summer. No more misfires, still not sure what the future holds. Just biding my time.

Thanks. (edit: Oh seems sparks - maybe more - were from one of the wires touching the lower intake manifold prong (or area) somehow. Helper bent it (or secured it) away seems clear now, hopefully addresses that sparking-related issue.)

Edit: Drive 4: a bit of stutter at idle, very lethargic going from 15 to 30 and twice lurched passing thru 20 mph, in general feels a little restrained and slight tremor feeling at times, otherwise uneventful drive

 

[rigbyrigz]

I've been asking about the MAF and IAT in another thread... there are however many threads/posts about the abundant P0171 and P0174 codes (and associated problems with rough idle, fuel economy, acceleration, etc. ) Sometimes it's a bad MAF (or other sensors), or wiring(or harness), gaskets, hoses(vacuum leaks), fuel pump or other fuel parts, fuel vapor vent solenoid, or a mix of these, or maybe bad Karma...

Some rough acceleration and occasional hesitation on my 2000 5.0L V8 MM was accompanied by frequent P0171 & P0174 codes, and I decided to have a go at it (with some hearty helpers more mechanical than me) even though my Ford mechanic nephew is in jail for some time (he replaced O2 sensor, spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, and some radiator fan & air temperature sensor stuff last summer.)

I haven't gotten an elegant OBD2-scanner/Fusion, FuelPressure tester kit yet (but maybe soon) so just have the cheap code-reader codes, and reset them. (AdvancedAuto & others won't help these days due to COVID rules here.) I decided to buy a new but cheap black plastic MAF to spec, a bit set for those funky screws, and had the guys install it. They disconnected the battery and did some of the ECU reset stuff (though no revving/long idling), as I learned about Fuel Trims(long and short) and PSI and more.

Seemed OK at first; no P0171/P0174 but may have been pending(50 miles,more trips) when it THEN coded P0112(IAT.) Some indirect communication with nephew and others and reading influenced me to buy the fitting IAT sensor to spec. But couldn't find a place to put it, and (to the surprise of many disbelievers) after much effort and drama established I indeed had the model that has the IAT built-in to the MAF.

(No experts, threads, posts, or research revealed what one is effectively supposed to do when you get a P0112 or P0113 - as I have - the main remedy being "replace IAT sensor" when in fact, you really can't (other than a new MAF. Heh.)

Just for giggles, I will reveal that the part nbr on the IAT purchased from AdvancedAuto googles to "MAP sensor" even though the sensor I got looks exactly like the IAT sensor photos (that some models are supposed to separately have on the Intake Sleeve (not mine though.)) Anyway, it's still in the bag(and if we ever find where the MAP (is it actually the ECT?) is on/near the upper intake manifold, might even use it some day. After a helper cleaned off (and zipped off the leak of) some antifreeze and maybe some trans fluid, checked for rot and loose fitting and leaks, etc. I actually then carefully drove to Advanced in town to pick up the IAT, had a few stutters along the way, but when I started it to return, it lurched, shuddered, bucked, and would barely go. Fortunately Limp Mode (or whatever happens when you unplug the MAF as I did) gets me home.

Drove it with the old MAF for awhile, passably functional, while still getting continual intermittent P0171 & P0174. Meanwhile, I researched MAF and IAT and Fuel Trims, and purchased a Genuine OEM MAF to spec; was actually gray and more sturdy, and had the helper install that and do the 30 minute plus 30 battery reset disconnect stuff to clear the ECU. He then idled it 10 minutes and did this and that RPM revving. Made a lot of noise but he had a good time, as I cringed.

He then took it for a 5 minute test drive, gunning it (i think) to 65-70 3 times, and reported on the 3rd time the check engine light flashed on and off, maybe 3 times. Didn't stay on, and good it didn't keep flashing, seems to be a cylinder misfire that maybe was one-time don't sweat...

...But when I started it up an hour later, it shuddered and spit and could hardly do more than lurch. Coded with a P108 or something meaning cylinder 8 misfire. Could also see sparks, which seems to have resulted from the wires (or plugs) there just touching something on the manifold (since remedied with a separator or such.) And then it was noticed (perhaps missed earlier) that this hose from purge cannister to EVAP exhaust or whatever had flattened and sucked up, in fact, it was sort of crumbling underneath when one lifts it. And as above, a new hose now there.

I'm not sure if all the aggressive revving and driving to try and make the ECU ReLearn faster contributed to some of the above, or how ReLearning in general affects driving for a few trips and miles, maybe days or weeks, but there is not a lot of info on this out there, unless you have an advanced tuner scanner and can precisely calibrate the new MAF and watch the Historical Trim data reset and such...

...so I am hopefully (it will work it self out during the Harsh ReLearn) puttering along, as we don't have those tools nor expertise, hoping for a miracle, some magical tips, sympathy, or a good laugh. Thanks.

(P.S. Ooops, meant to mention (in case this ain't long enough, sorry) that much of these troubles seemed to start after Walmart Auto did my regular Oil Change about 4 months ago, and (for the first time) ALSO replaced the Air Filter.)

 

[rigbyrigz]

Probably no one cares (sob sob... i mean as in cry cry not son of...) but last night's drive was not as uneventful as first thought... actually 14 codes popped up. Besides the P0171 (and another MAF or TrimCode P0174) seemed to be all O2 related: P0156 x 2, p1131, P1132 , P1151, P1152... too much fuel/not enough air bank 1/2, "lack of Heated upstream oxygen switch sensor" - H02S, HEGO = rich...

Went to pick up helper at a funeral and was a very "hesitant" drive... stopped for cigz and it was so bad "stuttering" as we parked, that the helper took out his drill (and disconnected the battery) then unscrewed the newest MAF and put back in the original first oldest MAF. The ride home (was it advanced limp mode?) was then (surprisingly) actually rather smooth and almost normal. None of this makes any sense (to me I mean.)

I assume the O2 sensor issues were/are caused by driving too much in limp mode, too much ReLearning without a real calibrate or tune-up effort, more leaks, the misfire from aggressive revving, or what? Sigh. Anyone got a thought what to try next, and THANKS for reading.

 

[CDW6212R]

Concentrate more on basic issues. Stop worrying about the PCM relearning, that is extremely minor with these old computers. Only unplug them when you have to, not to erase anything, do that as a last resort or step. Skip the concept of limp mode with these PCM, they really don't have that from what I've seen. If it's running very badly, it is not due to the PCM relearning, or limp mode, it's an actual bad part, sensor, plugs/wires, or a wiring issue etc. I'd bet on wiring, a bad connection somewhere that affects many things, and thus generates multiple error codes. Unplug the main engine connector at the rear area of the bay, look at both sides and clean if any corrosion is seen, but put it back snugly. Check the bolt when you first loosen it, is it loose at all now?