Wiring Up a Factory Fog Light Switch

[Indispensable Explorer]

In my mission to have better visibility at night, I am adding fog lights to my Explorer that didn't come with them from the factory. I picked up a bezel with a fog light switch from a JY so I could have a factory appearance, but I am not sure how to wire up the four wires(I'm colorblind so my description may not be exact): Teal with Black stripe, Black, Red with Black stripe, and Orange. The orange wire is thicker than the others.
Thanks!

Incase anyone got lost in my rambling, here are my questions:
How do I wire up the factory fog light switch to work with a relay?
What gauge wire should I use for this application?

 

[Spudhut]

Simple sketch.

10-12 ga from battery
14-16 ga to fog lamps and switch

You could add a 15a fuse between battery and relay.

 

[J_C]

Keep in mind that the factory fog lights do not throw, are essentially useless for adding extra visibility in typical night driving. Anything aftermarket that has good throw, is most likely illegal to use on public roads.

The diagram I have for the fog light switch has light blue/black coming from pin #2 of the fog lamp relay (which you might need to add to the relay box and I don't know where it is on a '95, maybe in a box under the air filter?), tan/orange wire going to both fog lamps and to the fog lamp relay pin 5, red/black wire going to the "interior lights system" circuit (don't know where it taps into that, is only used to light up the switch when the interior gauge/etc lighting is on), and the black wire goes to a chassis ground, or another black wire going to one.

If you want to do it a different way than factory by putting in a new circuit and putting a relay somewhere else, and using the factory dash fog light switch, then you could do it as follows:

Battery - Fuse - Wire Going to Both Relay Input Pin and Relay Coil Pin - 2nd relay coil pin going to Fog Lamp Switch light-blue/black wire - Fog Lamp Switch black wire going to ground - relay Output Pin going to fog lamps and fog light switch tan/orange wire.

 

[Spudhut]

I should have asked, do you have the connector behind the center bezel for the fog light switch? It should be there, including the fog light connection points on the front of the vehicle.

I incorporated aftermarket fog lights using factory pig tails (I cut from JY vehicle, to plug into factory connections up front)... and spliced the wires together.

 

[Indispensable Explorer]

Unfortunately, I don't have the factory fog light wiring harness, so I have to wire the switch on my own.

I plan to get these lights that are DOT approved, and put them in the air dam next to my licence plate holder. I just checked the website and they have their own wiring harness in the box, so unless I don't use it there's something else to figure out... The harness may not function how the factory switch does, and it probably doesn't have a relay so it won't be as safe.

For the interior lights system, could I use a wire tap to connect one of the other illuminated buttons like the rear wiper? Would this result in the circuit being overloaded or both lights illuminating at 50% brightness?

I'll draw up a diagram of the circuit so that we're all on the same page.

Thanks again!

 

[J_C]

^ They are lying. DOT doesn't "approve" nor does SAE "certify" lights. At least they wrote "Off Road" because that's all they're legal for with a claimed 245m beam and based on the beam pattern in the pictures. Here's what a fog light beam pattern is supposed to look like to comply, primary focus on the ground only a few feet in front of the vehicle and very short spread beam:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attac...y-swift-beam-pattern-lhs-4300k-rhs-6000k.jpeg

I can't stop you from using any lights you want to, but I'd make sure they're shut off if driving close behind someone (less of an issue if mounted low in the stock fog light position), passing in the other direction, or if law enforcement is around.

You have less need for a relay with LED lights because they draw less current, those probably only a couple amps each, but you should definitely use a fuse if tapping directly to the battery or on a non-essential circuit if taping into an existing one and depending on the fuse for it instead of a separate fuse.