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PTU and Rear Diff Fluid Change - 2011 Explorer XLT

Just an update on my PTU fluid analysis. I sent a sample off to Blackstone and got my report back today. The summary is that the analysis is more representative of a 30k mile fluid instead of the 61k miles it has on it. From the report, the Aluminum and Iron levels are well below the averages. Gotta remember the picture above of the drain plug magnet, so I'm sure a good amount of iron is on it vs in the fluid. I might change it again in another 30k miles.
 



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The only time the PTU gets a drain plug is if it has the cooler. So the SHO with Perf Pkg, Explorer Sport, and Police Interceptors with PTU coolers get drain plugs and no fill ports other than the sensor. The D3/D4 without PTU coolers have the drain plug and no sensor or fill port.

The Fusion Sport uses a different PTU but with the same 6F55, and has an integrated cooler with the drain plug and if I recall, a fill port or the sensor.

At 20k miles, my SHO PTU oil looked done. The rear diff oil looked brand new though.
 






I wonder if the exhaust location has anything to do with why the PTU oil burning up? Also, I think this says it all that the Ford AWD system is garbage. Lifetime is also considered to last 150K miles so I guess if they advertised it as lifetime, they probably meant it’ll hold until 150K.
 






Ford's current AWD cars and SUVs are great vehicles to lease.
 






The only time the PTU gets a drain plug is if it has the cooler. So the SHO with Perf Pkg, Explorer Sport, and Police Interceptors with PTU coolers get drain plugs and no fill ports other than the sensor. The D3/D4 without PTU coolers have the drain plug and no sensor or fill port................
What about the Platinum? It has basically the same setup as the Sport does it not?

Peter
 






Should I worry about adding any rear end additives to my 2014xsport?
 






Yeah, Blackstone said to try 10K miles next time, but I think I'll go 15K (probably end of next summer-ish) and send in another sample. Depending on how the next analysis comes back, it may just become an annual service thing.



Unfortunately, I can't confirm with certainty, but I was under the impression that FoMoCo, at some point, put drain plugs in all of the 3.5L PTU units. I've also read in some of the failed PTU threads that the new service PTUs replacing failed units are coming with the drain plug. I imagine your 2016 would have the drain plug as well. Next time you're changing your oil, you can take a peek and see if you have a plug on the passenger side of your PTU.

Someone else might be able to chime in with more certainty or some actual documentation to confirm my suspicions. :)
I have a 2014 Ford Explorer Sport 3.5 Ecoboost (47k miles) and mine does have drain plug. I believe depending on the model some PTU's might or might not have drain plug. I was able to drain most of the fluid through the drain plug and used a fluid extractor that pulled maybe another 2-3 ounces out of the PTU (it was all black and nasty). For the refill, I replaced the original vent hose with a 2 feet of 5/16 rubber fuel line. Luckily, I had a small funnel that I was able to put slightly over the 5/16 hose and just filled the funnel half with gear oil and walked away for 30 minutes, I'll come back and repeat the process. I found this to be the best process and easiest way to fill the PTU. After I was done I installed the vent breather valve on the new 5/16 hose and now I have a new fill hose that's longer and easier to access. Ford really needs to install longer vent hoses for the PTU but at $180 per PTU fluid change why would they do it. right!?
 






All,

I finally got around to changing both the PTU and Rear Differential fluid on the Explorer.

First off, I'm not a believer in 'Lifetime' fluids, in any vehicle. At approximately 60,000 mi, I changed the Transmission fluid using a BG exchange machine via the cooler lines.

The Explorer is now at 77,000 mi. Mix of highway and around town driving. We do not tow with the vehicle. It was time to tackle the gear oil.

Unfortunately, on this model year and configuration of the Explorer, there are no drain plugs on either the PTU or Rear Diff. This means that in order to drain the old fluid, it requires using a fluid extraction pump.

It's a relatively simple process with the right tools. I would say a 3 out of 10 in this case. First, you should use a commercial grade car lift. It is much safer, and easier to get to the fill plugs.

Second, here are the supplies / tools I used:

Atlas Kwik-Bay Lift
Amsoil 75W-90 Severe Gear Full Synthetic - 1 Qt - for Rear Differential (could take more than 1 Qt - I was only able to extract approx. 1 Qt)
Amsoil 75W-140 Severe Gear Full Synthetic - 1 Qt - for PTU (only need approx. 1 Pt.)
3/8" Ratchet - Medium handle
MityVac MV7300 Fluid Extractor - for use with shop air.
Motive Power Fill Transfer Pump - can use with shop air.

I created a step by step guide with pictures in a PDF. The link is below.

The fluid I replaced in the Rear Differential didn't look bad at all. I probably won't change this fluid again.

The fluid I replaced in the PTU was in really, REALLY bad condition. Jet black, sludged, with an acrid, burnt smell to it. I've changed a lot of gear oil, and I've never seen anything this bad. It was on borrowed time. I plan on changing this fluid every 30,000 miles.

Rear Differential and PTU Fluid Change.pdf

Good luck.
Noob question but what is PTU?

Getting ready to do this..
 






Noob question but what is PTU?

Getting ready to do this..
Power Transfer Unit
No charge for the extra info; ;)
In a front wheel based AWD vehicle, the Power Transfer Unit (PTU) is attached to the side of the transmission where one of the half shafts connects, and transfers power to that half shaft and to a differential in the rear axle —in on-demand AWD— or to a central differential in full-time AWD.

Peter
 






Power Transfer Unit
No charge for the extra info; ;)
In a front wheel based AWD vehicle, the Power Transfer Unit (PTU) is attached to the side of the transmission where one of the half shafts connects, and transfers power to that half shaft and to a differential in the rear axle —in on-demand AWD— or to a central differential in full-time AWD.

Peter
hello and help! New member here, and looking for someone that has knowledge of why I cannot get the ptu/pto to break loose. I removed drive shaft, pass side axel, Cat Conv, bolts (5) to bracket attached to PTU, and the remaining 6 bolts. There are no other bolts, yet it appears to be stuck?
ANY advice would be so greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance, going back under the car to see if I can get it, but I am seriously at a loss
 






hello and help! New member here, and looking for someone that has knowledge of why I cannot get the ptu/pto to break loose. I removed drive shaft, pass side axel, Cat Conv, bolts (5) to bracket attached to PTU, and the remaining 6 bolts. There are no other bolts, yet it appears to be stuck?
ANY advice would be so greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance, going back under the car to see if I can get it, but I am seriously at a loss
Welcome to the Forum. :wave:
I haven't done any work on it myself but there are others that have. Perhaps one of them will respond and be able to help you.

Peter
 






hello and help! New member here, and looking for someone that has knowledge of why I cannot get the ptu/pto to break loose. I removed drive shaft, pass side axel, Cat Conv, bolts (5) to bracket attached to PTU, and the remaining 6 bolts. There are no other bolts, yet it appears to be stuck?
ANY advice would be so greatly appreciated

Thanks in advance, going back under the car to see if I can get it, but I am seriously at a loss

1601835224642.png

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. REFER to Lifting Points.
2. Remove the Right Hand (RH) halfshaft. REFER to Halfshaft - RH, All Wheel Drive (AWD).
3. Remove the Right Hand (RH) catalytic converter. REFER to Catalytic Converter - RH, FWD or REFER to Catalytic
Converter - RH, AWD.
4. NOTE: To maintain the initial driveshaft balance, index-mark the driveshaft flange and the output flange.
Remove the 4 driveshaft-to-output flange bolts, then disconnect the driveshaft from the output flange. Position the
driveshaft aside.
5. Remove the Power Transfer Unit (PTU) support bracket.
• Remove the 2 Power Transfer Unit (PTU) support bracket-to-Power Transfer Unit (PTU) bolts.
• Remove the 3 Power Transfer Unit (PTU) support bracket-to-engine bolts.
6. Position the engine roll restrictor aside.
1) Remove the 2 engine roll restrictor-to-transaxle bolts and the engine roll restrictor bracket.
2) Loosen the rear engine roll restrictor bolt and pivot the engine roll restrictor downward.
7. NOTE: Position a drain pan under the vehicle.
Remove the 5 Power Transfer Unit (PTU) bolts and pull the Power Transfer Unit (PTU) outward and separate it from
the transaxle. Rotate the output flange upward, then turn it and remove the Power Transfer Unit (PTU) from the
vehicle.
8. Using a small screwdriver, remove and discard the compression seal.
 






I had a difficult time finding that top bolt, but once it was off it came out with very little resistance
IMG_8915.JPG
 


















Reviving a bit this thread, but the PTU on my 2013 XLT 4WD has the seal leaking towards the transmission.
Last year I have drained (a bit) of PTU fluid and filled with new one, then I started to see there was oil leak between the PTU and the transmission.
In the weekend, I did another fluid (portion) flush and I could see I had to put more fluid in than i took out.
I think I may want take the PTU out and clean it inside a bit. I could not find the part number for the seal.
Does ford sell the PTU seals separately?

Have any of you done this?
 






Reviving a bit this thread, but the PTU on my 2013 XLT 4WD has the seal leaking towards the transmission.
Last year I have drained (a bit) of PTU fluid and filled with new one, then I started to see there was oil leak between the PTU and the transmission.
In the weekend, I did another fluid (portion) flush and I could see I had to put more fluid in than i took out.
I think I may want take the PTU out and clean it inside a bit. I could not find the part number for the seal.
Does ford sell the PTU seals separately?

Have any of you done this?
Been a while and don't have time to go dig up the details at the moment (will do that when I get a chance), but from memory.

There is a crush seal between the PTU and the Tranny.
There are two seals (the same p/n) mounted back to back in the PTU close to the tranny that the drive shaft runs through.
There is another seal at the other side (passenger side) of the PTU that the driveshaft runs through....may be the same p/n as the two on the other side. Then there is some kind of washer type piece that goes over this seal...seems to protect it while your pushing the driveshaft through.
Then there is a seal pressed into the PTU (passenger side) that seals between the PTU housing and the gear that the driveshaft runs through (i just changed this one for a second time).
Finally there is a dust cover that goes over the seal pressed into the PTU.

I dug up the part numbers for all these at one time and pretty sure I have them somewhere.
 






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