Adventure trailer build thread. | Page 10 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Intro:
This is not a common build here on this forum, but this build is part of another long term build, that has been going on for 10 years now. I feel it is fitting to share this build here, since so much of it's companion is documented on EF. This thread is as detailed as my patience has allowed. I want to be able to help others that might be searching for methods/ideas, and "how to" for much of the build. I do belong to other Overland forums, and will link this thread from them, to share with others.

About:
This trailer is a short compact, stout, capable, high clearance, Swiss army knife of a camper. It is not a popup camper, nor is it a sleep in hard shell camper. It will offer all the creature comforts those do, but in a little different fashion. This style trailer, makes you enjoy the outdoors. You cook/dine, lounge & hot shower outside, but you sleep inside a roomy insulated roof top tent, 78" off the ground.

The tow rig:

The Black Hole

The entire build for the tow rig, has always been with this build in mind, and it has been extremely difficult to keep that to myself, and why it was built the way it was. It is a purpose build, with a specific objective.

The Objective:
To be the living quarters and storage, for off the beaten path journeys yet to come.
To have everything needed to sustain myself, and a few others, out in the middle of nowhere, only accessible by unpaved trails, such as old mining roads. Hauling all the boondocking gear behind, instead of overloading the vehicle's suspension. To minimize setup and tear down times for camping, and have camping items readily accessible, whenever needed.

The trailer needs to be capable of following wherever the tow rig goes. Matching tires, axle width, and the same, if not more height clearance as the tow rig. Sleeping & shelter for 4 comfortably, sustainable cold food storage, food prep space, gas powered cooking, AC/DC power supply, and hot showers for days at a time, are all the requirements for this build.

Goal:

This is the other half of that long term build plan. I am slow at the building and fabricating process, and this will take about a year to complete. Updates will happen as the build progresses. I have entered the 7th month of the build, and expect another 3-4 months left to get it road worthy at the least. Just like anything I have done, it never ends, and improvements will happen, as I gain experience & knowledge with what works best for me.

Baby steps:

This is the first time I have ever attempted anything like this. I am bound to make mistakes, and corrections/improvements are all but a guarantee. I do have a final vision for what I want this to be, as it has been a thought process for many many years now. Please bear with me as this thread goes. Some items won't make sense until it comes to be. I am not going to tell you how things should be done. I am just sharing how I did things on this build. Agree/disagree, like it or leave it, it's mostly a learning experience by mixing what I know, and what I had to learn, to get things as I want them. Definitely not for everybody. Heck, I know I will change things down the road, as I find ways to improve on it. That is part of the fun!



Why am I building this?
I'm Tired of ground tent camping all my life. Tired of the time it takes to set up & tear down. Tired of all the tedious packing, unpacking, moving things from place to place after every trip. Plus, I don't want a motor home that can't leave the roads.
I plan on getting lost a few times, venturing out to places unknown and unseen. We live in a large, beautifully gifted geographical location on the planet. Our own back yard is filled with amazing spectacles. Places that can only be seen on dirt trails, off the beaten paths, not by roads covered in pavement, and delivery trucks. Exploring into the dark hours of the night, and setting camp in the middle of nowhere, instead of heading back. We can traverse a lot of ground this way.

Kudos:

A few friends helped with this build, and I couldn't have got as far as it is without them. Special thanks to James, Matt, Kurt, Ryan, & Jacob. You guys rock!

A warning from the author:

This thread contains: Long drawn out boring tedious explanations, Dry humor, embarrassing anecdotes, speech in the 3rd person, countless pictures, and some content is for Mature audiences. There is a little for everybody here, but be warned, this is not your typical build thread, and not from your typical builder. I am not responsible for your emotional mood swings, due to reading this material. ;)

Edit: Progress pics as of 10/15/18. Getting closer every day!

Dr washed.jpg

RTT on front pass side full view.jpg


First real use!

Camp set 1.jpg

Camp set 2.jpg

Bat wing awning up.jpg



Current specs:
Main Frame- 12'.5"L x 48"W
Whopping 25" of ground clearance with 35" tires
Fenders- 72" Long x 14.00" Wide tapered to 0.00" in front
Cabin- 48"W x 72"L x 36"H
Overall Width - 76"
Overall Height - 68" Roof Rack lowered - 78" Roof Rack lifted
Overall Height- 80" With RTT stowed - 140" RTT open & rack lifted
Dry weight- 2300#'s

2"x3"x3/16" Steel Tube Frame, with 1 pc center tongue beam from front to rear.
3500 Lb Timbren Axleless Independent suspension
10" Electric brakes
35"x12.5" Goodyear MTR's w/kevlar & matching spare
15"x10" Mickey Thompson black satin aluminum wheels
Lock N Roll off road articulating Hitch
14 Ga steel cabin walls & roof
3/4" Ply floor, stained, sealed, & 5 topcoats of acrylic gloss clear
Commercial 60 Mil Waterproof TPO membrane under belly skin
12 Ga steel Fenders on Sq frame & 2" x 3/16" Round slider tubes
Spare tire mount on cabin front
16 Ga swing out 4'W x 2'D x 24"H Tapered Tongue box
16 Ga Side boxes with Tapered front compartments
Telescoping Roof rack (12") with scissor jack actuation
Two rear 31" BAL C leveling jacks & swivel plate base
Dual 5K swivel weld ring flat plate base Tongue jacks
ARK dual wheel offroad 750 HD Tongue jack
Slider system for hidden Solar panel storage
Dual 11 lb Propane tank storage mounts
Quick Disconnect Water supply
All Stainless & Aluminum hardware, where applicable

Interior:
Front compartment 48"Wx24"Lx36"H
Two side doors, and upper 12 ga shelf with expanded metal rear wall
Rear Compartment 48"Wx48"Lx36"H
3/4" PT wood flooring, custom finish, clear satin marine topcoats.
Tie downs on frame tubes
1-60W Led rear cabin, 3-10w Led front cabin
Wiring plumbed with flex and hard conduit
Split cabin with full rear cabin deck, tie down racks

Power:
Dual Group 31 MAGM deep cycle 110 AH batteries
110 shore
100W Renogy Solar
Charge:
NOCO Marine 110v 20 amp onboard Dual smart charger
30 amp Renogy MPPT Solar charger
140 amp traveling vehicle charge, via smart charger
Soon to come: 40 amp-500 watt DC-DC charger from alternator
Portable Valence 80Ah Lifepo4 Solar Gen w/inverter

Accessories:
4 season 23Zero 73" Walkabout RTT W/ large Annex room - telescopic ladder w/rung pads- Ext shoe bags-Led lights- 3" thick x Ca King mattress w/anti condensation mat.
Oversized high density 3" thick 56" x 96" mattress. Cold weather cover, additional secondary rain fly.
Rhino Rack 8.5' Bat Wing 270* Wrap around Awning (2019 version)
5Liter - 1.5 gpm - On demand instant hot water heater
ARB/ViAir 150 psi onboard air system
Ready Welder II
Slide out Kitchen/storage- 1/2" Baltic Birch, sealed/stained/clear coats 350# slides
ICECO VL45 portable fridge/freezer - AC/DC
Custom powder coated locking Fridge slide out.
Wireless controlled winch (upper roof rack storage, rear bumper hitch receiver)
Rear door interior fold down table
Dual 11 lb propane tanks (rear fender mounted)
Marine control panel, rocker switches w/circuit breakers, 12v battery meter, Aux outlets
30 gallon fresh water tank & 3.0 gpm instant on pump w/ inline filter
Trailer Harness Connection lock box
First Aid field kit (large)
Dual Fire Extinguisher's

LED Lighting:
Front- 2-45w dual pods w/amber fogs
Sides- 4-18w pods
Rock- 4-10w blue IP 67
Cabin- 1-60w 3 setting round rear compartment ceiling fixture, 3-10w pods front compartment
Tails/brakes/turns- 30w 6" oval
Reverse- 30w 6" oval
Markers- 3w red & amber
7 pin RV trailer harness & J box

Tongue box build:
Full box tube frame & 16 ga sheet, w/plate and tube gussets
Dual battery mount tray
Red oak Shelf for Noco dual 20 amp charger, 20amp solar charger, 12v systems (3) circuit breakers, fuse panel, main power cutoff switch
3 space divider walls & front storage shelf
Gas lift struts, 2"x 3/16" thick Aluminum lid hinge
Dual SS locking paddle latch handles
Dual 4" SS louvered vents w/bug screens
Pass thru power cord outlet with weatherproof door hatch
NOCO 110v wall power plug w/ weatherproof cover
2k locking latch to frame, & dual 7/16" clevis pins to frame
5/8" spindle for swivel action, for spare tire removal/security

Paint:
Frame- Chassis saver gloss black
Cabin Exterior- Acid etch primer & Single stage Gloss Black automotive 2k urethane
Cabin Interior- SW DTM Gloss White
Side & T boxes, All doors- Urethane Epoxy primer & Single stage Gloss Black 2k Urethane
Roof rack- Chassis saver gloss black
Fenders-Acid etch primer underneath & Urethane base topside, Black Raptor liner w/grip additive

Trim: Aluminum



Lots to add to that list up there, and I will as the build progresses. :)

I hope you enjoy the thread, as much as I have enjoyed the build itself.
 



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I just use an actual hammer and the anvil on my vice. Hammer crimp and then lots of soldier.

I've done that, with less than desired results. Was pretty much a slaughter, each time. lol

The hammer crimp tool is inexpensive, and does a perfect job, each & every time. Pretty much fool proof, which I feel, was made for people like me. :)

Been at it for a few hours today, the T-box is inching it's way to being done, slowly, but surely. Off to the store for more skeeter repellent, and a lunch break. Should be wrapped up on it tonight.
 






And now....Your Weekend Update.

Brought to you in part by, Off skeeter repellent, the association of clinical psychologists, fly swatters inc, and made possible from viewers like you.

So I was mistaken when I said, it would be wrapped up by tonight. Imagine that. The inverter I planned on getting this weekend fell threw, so not sure when that is going in. Can't add the 18v Rigid battery charger until that's in, as I need to make the most of the room, and need the inverter in hand to place things for configuration.

T-box part 8-2

Top shelf items are all buttoned up, and done. Batteries have dual posts on the top. Charger wires and inverter positive lead use the big posts, and the threaded stud posts get everything else with copper lugs, wing nutted tight.

battery posts (2).jpg


Hung all the wires for the charger. Battery leads are to the shelf edge, and all the extra lengths of leads, and 110v supply line are tucked and fastened to the underside of the shelf in the corner, under the charger.

charger wire fastened to shelf.jpg



After all the work this weekend, I was anxious to see how much room I had left in the box. I tediously ran things tight as I could to make room for storage, and another system. I was pleasantly surprised how much room is left. I placed the 1 gallon air tank, that has been waiting to be installed in the tow rig, to check on fitment. I have plenty of room for 2 tanks twice this size, and room for the pump/hose, with enough storage room for cords, and what not. I think a 2.5 gal tank will work perfectly.

Extra charger cables.jpg


Tons of room left in front of the batteries, and on each side of them.

available storage left.jpg


Those lights are magnet mounted. I been moving them around as I needed while I worked. Things are extremely helpful, for this old, blind *******.



I didn't get to run any wires to the trailer for accessories yet. I put in another 9 hours into it today, and that was 8 too many. So I would say it is around 75% done now. Batteries are charging up, and being timed to see how long it takes to bring them up fully. They have been sitting for roughly 9 months, when I bought them new on sale. Had no idea at that time, how long it would be, before they would be installed. lol

I am no longer saying when things will be done. It will be done, when it's done. :shifty:
 






Batteries charged up fully in 4 hours, after sitting for 9 months. That was a big relief.

Got some aluminum bug screen and made gaskets for the T-box vents installed. Not the prettiest from the inside, but ain't nobody going to see that, (or my hand smudges) for Pete's sake.

t box vent screens on.jpg


Picked up some rubber gripper pads for the 30 cal & 50 cal ammo boxes. No more slip n slide. These boxes are nice 16ga steel, powder coated, clamp tight, with a waterproof gasket all around the lid.

Also found a 4 outlet box with an 8 ft cord. It will hang on the backside of the box above the cord pass thru I recently installed. I will make it removable, and store in the box when not in use. Be a heck of a lot easier to plug into it, then into the inverter inside the box, when more than one cord is needed.

Ammo cans.jpg


These will be strapped in the side boxes, and filled with spare hardware, tools, electrical items, and what not. I really need a good label maker, or something. Chrome Vinyl stickers would be awesome, as they would look way better than the 1950's era labels, you make with the cheesy gun. Mix of old/new together is awesome to me. Oh well, someday.

Forecast is saying mid 90's for another 10 days right now. I think we're going to skip fall again, and go directly to winter. Frak...
 






I think I see a "skeeter" clinging to your bug screen !
 












Little project for the bigger project.

Yes, still working on this Tongue box! It's killing me too, so y'all hang in there, it will be over soon enough. ;)

T-box part 9:

Wanting to utilize the space in front and sides of the batteries, for loose items, I wanted something to protect the batteries from anything falling, bounced up on top of them. I headed to the big box hardware store, grabbed a cart, and slowly cruised up/down the isles, looking for something to accomplish this.

Needed something that will allow air flow to the batteries, mountable, can bolt too, and weather proof. I started inspecting screens, then gutter shield, then expanded metals, and nothing really seemed worthy. Shift gears, and think peg board style. I find the cardboard sheets of the stuff, and decided to snag a small 2'x4' pc for a trial mock up.

Got home, spent some time making a wall with alum angle to frame it, then bolted it together. While fighting to get a sheet metal screw in, with the tight space, I said F this. Too much trouble to deal with. Jumped online, and did a search for composite pegboard. I had seen this stuff somewhere before, but had no idea where to get it. In 3 mins, I had found it, at another big box store, but... they only had 16"x16" sqs of it, sold individually, and they interlock, so they get you to buy a bunch at a higher price. What a scam, but, I wouldn't need much.

Within an hour of seeing them online, I had 3 of them in the shop, marked up, and ready to cut.

comp peg full sq.jpg


They are 1/2" thick roto molded, and extremely strong. I was shocked at how nice they was, and here I am cutting them up not 20 mins old. :D

Finding what I need in my scrap metal piles, I quickly put this thing together as I pictured it in my head. Some SS hardware, some Aluminum angle, bolted on a couple grab hangers for the 50'L x 10ga extension cord, and it was time to install it.

divider wall made.jpg


Hinged to open to get to the side compartments easier. They close against the front, and a vertical frame tube inside acts as a stop, as the edge hits it. Was going to add a latch or something, but they fit tight enough, and once packed, they won't move. Now the control panel wiring and the batteries are protected nicely. The Pass side, next to the batteries, will be where the air tank and compressor will be mounted. I am leaving the Dr side of the batteries alone, and will be dedicated for just wiring harnesses.

Installed with 3 screws to the shelf. quickly removes for battery access. Dr side view.

Divider wall installed Dr side.jpg


The full Monty.

divider wall above loose install.jpg


It's a box in a box. lol
 






Picked at this thing a little over the last couple of days with some small stuff.

Finished running the wires from the T-box to the main compartment, and hooked up to the control panel. I had to stop there, as I am waiting on some watertight cable glands, and the interior dome light to arrive. Figured out, I have to finish running the accessory wires now, before I can work on anything on top of the trailer, and inside the trailer.

This control panel, has a weird Led dual volt & amp meter. Took me a bit to figure out how to hook it up. I searched online, and found jack squat.
When I first got this thing, I took a picture of the wiring, and sent it to the people that was doing some work on my tow rig, and asked what the hell it was for. They told me it was a circuit breaker. I thought Hmm... Ok, guess I will research it and figure it out later. Turned out to be like 10 months later. lol

Most of these have 5 wires with a shunt for 3 of them. Not this one. It has 6 wires, and 3 of them are connected to a little box with a center hole. It didn't come with any wiring manual, diagram, reach around, be your huckleberry, instructions at all. I looked at it closer, and there was this micro diagram on the back of the tiny box. Broke out the magnifying glass, and it showed this:

+ ------>--0------->

Turns out it is a hall effect sensor. But still not 100% on the wiring for it.

I scratched my head for a minute, then it dawned on me. There is a Yellow, Red, & Black wire to hook up. You know, them tiny 50 awg led wires that are thinner then a strand of hair. Then the 3 wire ribbon with the boxed doughnut at the end of it (HES). So I ran a Red 14 ga wire thru the hole, then to both Red & Yellow wires, then to the Pos battery pole. Black to black, and to Neg battery pole. The volt meter works. Shown 12.8v and 0.0A. When a switch is thrown, and something is being powered, it should read the amps being used. This thing does draw a bit of power, as after a few hours, the V dropped to 12.7 (What a 12v battery should read at a stand still, fully charged). Since I wired it direct to the battery, there is no switch for it. I am going to see what the readout is tomorrow, and decide if a switch is worthy, if this thing turns out to be a parasitic draw item. Charger /maintainer is disconnected for this.
Edit... batteries must have been on the cusp of 12.7 and 12.8. Hasn't changed in 18 hours. I don't think it's drawing anything at all.

This might seem like a trivial post, but since I found nothing online to help me, maybe it will help someone else in the same boat.


control panel volt meter on.jpg


Next trivial item up is....... I wanted a self on/off led light for the lid of the T-box. I found what works for me, in the Cooler isle at Cabella's. It's a tumbler switched, battery powered, low cost ($12) Led, that mounts to the underside of a cooler lid. Water resistant, and made for extreme temps. Made by Coleman of all people. This thing is bright as heck, works perfectly too. I tilted it left and right, and it does not turn on from the off position. When in the On position, it stays on, when tilted left to right. It turns on/off, at about 45*. Led's are pointed downward at an angle, to light the inside of the cooler.... erm, box. Runs on two AA batteries in a locked side door compartment. It does have a slide switch to turn it off as well. I found out that this model has replaced Coleman's more expensive waterproof unit, as it retailed for 3 times the cost, and wasn't selling. For the cost, high lumen output, 270* spread, plus it comes with 2 Duracell AA, this unit is hard to beat.

Off

coleman led off.jpg


On, during the daylight!

coleman led on.jpg



porkey pig thats all folks.jpg







Reminds me that I am low on bacon. dang it!
 






Cable glands showed, but the dome light didn't. So...

Drilled eight 1/2" holes thru the main box top & sides. Ran the wires thru the conduit with the fish tape, and thru the glands. These glands are for 3mm-6mm wires (including sheathing). The 14 awg I used for the lights was 3mm, and I wanted these glands to tighten real good, to make them waterproof at the wire entry. The little rubber wire gasket tube works, but there was a tiny bit of movement when I tugged at the wire. Not good enough for this honky. They have rubber gaskets on the outside, that work very well, but since I didn't want to glue on a abs hood over these, I came up with something simple but effective.

Heat shrink to the rescue. These gave just enough extra stuff to the wires, to get the glands to tighten very snug around the wires. Then I used the butane pencil to heat shrink them tight to the wires. No movement with a tug test, in both directions. I like these so much, that I might use them on the tow rigs roof, for the lights on it.

Pre install. You can see the little fingers that close up around the wire, as the nut is tightened, and the small rubber tube seal. The heat shrink goes inside the small tube seal, and is pinched by it.

cable gland pre install.jpg


All together. You can see the rubber gasket ring underneath it. I think this one needs a tad more heat put to it on the end. Amazing how I can see things better, looking at these pictures, on a 32" monitor. Kinda like that screw is set too deep, and might need some silicone on it. lol !

Cable gland installed.jpg


Didn't realize just how dirty this thing has gotten over the build. Sharpie marks, dust, grinding dust, spiders, and all those little white dots are rubbing compound that was splattered up there when I was doing some work on the walls. Whoops, I missed a spot (or 20). Might have to take it outside and give it a bath tomorrow. I have yet to post any recent full view picture for you guys. Been waiting until it was mostly put together.

Tomorrow is more wiring, and lights installed. Hoping next weekend I can get the major componants on the roof installed. I bought one of them, last November, and has been waiting all this time to get installed. Need to open it up and make sure it is still good, before the warranty expires. lol

Enjoy the Weekend, and don't pull your back out at the Disco bar.
 






You have heard of a "Bad Hair Day", but have you heard of a "Bad Hardware Day"?

Start of madness:
1) Fished out some 3/8"x2.5" Stainless bolts/nuts/washers, from the bins at the hardware store, before I went on a 1 hr trip to meet a guy, selling a part I'm after.
2) Waited for guy for over 30 mins, and was a no show. Took another hour to get back, and a half a tank of juice. (Richard Cranium!)
3) Bolts are 3", not 2.5". Thought there was enough thread to make them work, but upon tightening them, found I was about 2 threads from tight.
4) Go to remove the Stainless stop nuts, and they seize up on the bolts. Had to use a breaker bar and a wrench, and take my frustrations out from the no show Richard, until they snapped.
5) Put 2 lights together, and use some regular grade 5- 2.5" bolts and get 2 lights bolted on, open the next set of lights, and no SS hardware to be found.
6) Dome light didn't show today. Got an email saying delayed until mid week. Par for the day.
7) Skeeter bit me inside my ear, before I could take a glove off, and get it out. Neighbors probably thought I was doing a rain dance, as I was running around the driveway, hitting my head as I went.
End of madness.

It wasn't all bad, I managed to make the 1/4" brackets for these top lights made, and they turned out great.

After drilling the brackets bolt holes, into the rack, I decided to use rubber washers, behind the stainless washers, to seal them up.

Here is the setup pre install: 3/8" SS bolt, SS washers, rubber washers, SS stop nut, and 1/4" bracket.

top led brackets and hardware.jpg


This is the same 3/8" bolt, post install, (plus a couple others)

SS bolts broke.jpg


So I won't be using Stainless stop nuts, and just using stainless lock washers & nuts instead. That's just redick to not be able to remove them minutes after install. I'm taking them back for a refund, as these suckers aren't cheap.

So after a long day of chasing my tail, all I managed to get done was install 2 lights, that have to come back off, to replace the hardware. Awesome.

Preview of one 18w Led pod.

top leds installed profile.jpg


These will raise with the rack, when it is elevated camping. Have to make the wiring work, to move with it. Trick part figuring the mounting location/position for these, is they have to clear a few things. Doors, tent, and awning are all moving parts, and mounting spots had to clear it all, with some room around them.

I emailed the light supplier about the missing SS hardware, and hopefully they live up to the customer service that is said about them. Pretty bummed my Sunday was wasted, and nothing to really show, for what felt like a bunch of work, but wasn't.

Just another day, living the dream. Someday, maybe, it will become reality! lol
 






As President Lincoln said.........Four score, and some don't..... Wait..... that ain't right, that was at the Frat party. Nevermind....

The hunt for the 2.5" SS bolts began this morning. The 4th store had them. 2 hours later, I was back at it. (smh) Decided not to wait on the Led supplier, for the hardware, and got my own SS stuffs.

Lights all on with the proper hardware, then it was time to wire them up.

Some of these waterproof connectors...

waterproof connectors.jpg


Some 14 awg, some conduit, and you get this...

WP connectors installed.jpg


Add some silicone wrap for extra insurance...

WP connectors silicone tape.jpg


And BAM!! Captain Bob, is your watertight submarine Uncle.

Well almost. I still have to wrap the conduit. lol Really wish I had some soft rubber line jacket, to use instead of this plastic conduit. Someday, down the cold winter road, when I need something to pass some time, I might research & do something like that. For now, I have to keep that chooch going, and move onto the next steps.

The nice LED dome light from Australia, arrived today. :D
 






Nice crimpers !
 






2nd Monday of the week, and it was crazier then the 1st. No time or energy, to really get into anything big, so I did a quick small mod tonight.

Had a black acrylic wind deflector off a roof basket, laying around for years & years. It was scratched and beat to hell. I cleaned it up with 400 grit, 800, 1500, & 2000 grit wet sand. Got 95% of the bad off, then hit it with the orbital DA, and 105 compound, finish scratch remover, then a coat of McQuire's gold wax.

Made the mounting hardware using all aluminum flat & angle. Made the bends with the bench vise and drilled all the holes. Bolted together with SS Allan bolts. Used the existing wall panel trim bolts to secure it into place. Weighs about 1/4 lb if that.

This wasn't necessarily needed, but it will help with things stored under the rack. Can't tell if it adds a bit more custom feel to it, or if it makes it look more cheesy/generic?

Anywho, for my record keeping, and your viewing pleasure......

Made up on the table, showing the brackets

Wind deflector build.jpg


Installed

Deflector installed.jpg



I had to get in my therapy session tonight in the shop. I was peopled out from work.

toddler road rage.jpg
 






That will help keep some bugs off items stored up there. Might even smooth the air flow between the truck and trailer a bit.

But, did you ever get more bacon?
 






Nope, been so busy lately, I haven't been to the store in a couple of weeks. Low or out of all perishables. I'm using my doomsday prep powder creamer in my coffee this morning.

Bugs, trail dust, splattering mud, and vertical rains was the reasoning for that deflector. It might reduce that stuff a little bit. Traveling improvement will be a bonus, if it helps. I didn't run it on the roof basket, as it acted more like a wall, and made mpg/handling worse. Letting the air flow thru the basket made a big improvement.

Temps are starting to cool off here, but that means the days are getting shorter, and the skeeters come out in force, much earlier now. It's almost dark by 6:30pm now, but still too warm to close up the shop. Setting the clocks back is going to happen soon. This will mean I can only do the painting on weekends for the next month. I need to get to welding stuff pronto. All these little jobs are eating a lot of time.
 






When things get real bad,

The shiny pages out of magazines and catalogs are the first to go. Provided you are eating that is.
 






Finally made it to the store this afternoon. lol Back in action!

9-5 got in the way last week for my moonlighting as a trailer putter togetherer. Only got a couple minor things accomplished.

1st up.... The Led tag light on the rear door was installed and wired up into the running light circuit.

plate led light.jpg


2nd... Made an aluminum bracket mount for the interior Led dome light & got it installed/wired up. This thing is first class all the way Jose! Powdercoat, bright as heck, but soft light at the same time. It has a touch on/off pad, and I forgot to try it out with the panel switch. Lol, yeah been busy, and forgetful.

Led dome on bracket loose.jpg


I also got the front interior 9w Led pods installed/wired, but for got to take pics of all these installed. Will edit this later with them.

3rd... The rear has a slot made into the framing to slide in/out the flooring in the back. I made a plate cover for it out of 12 ga. Installed after it was sealed with HD Aluminum/asphalt flashing tape. It got all the holes drilled, and recessed for black pan head metal screws. 2 coats Self etching primer, and 3 coats of black. It will be able to come off, and replaced easily if needed.

20180929_145524.jpg

20180930_105537.jpg


20180930_105513.jpg

rear bumper cover plate installed.jpg


And there is the first rear shot of this thing in the daylight. :D
 






Ok, so the reason for the last picture of this outside, is because I had to do a leak test on it, and address any found. I did indeed find a couple. It got it's first sponge bath today, and a good power washing rinse.

The roof jack for the rack is leaking from one of the bolts going thru the roof. I didn't expect this one, as I put a decent bead of silicone around the rubber pad it sits on. I guess it is following the bolt from above. I have to remove the jack, and take care of it.

Roof jack leaking.jpg


Edit: Found some 1/2" rubber washers. Installed them below the bolt head, between the jack and roof, and between the nut and roof underneath. All sealed up.

Rubber washers on jack.jpg


Then the doors.... The upper corners have a void, and I expected these to leak, just wasn't sure how much. I will be adding more products to these areas.

Edit: Added another small weather strip to the jambs, and an alum/rubber weather strip to the door faces at the top. These make a seal above the doors. I really didn't want to do this at all, as it takes the look I was after away from it, but it's a sacrifice for extra insurance against any element infiltration.

The Tongue box did well. I used a power washer, and it only came in thru the side vents when I blasted straight at it. I'm good to go here I think.

Ok, here are the first real full pictures of it. Keep in mind, there is still more to do on the exterior, and this is not the finished product.

Dr washed.jpg


Rack is extended up here...
Front pass washed.jpg


Pugly served as the Mule today. The articulating hitch has a 2" drop/lift on it. Pugly needs the lift for this trailer, and the Black Hole needs the drop. It works either way, by flipping it over in the receiver. Works out awesome for 2 rigs with different height receivers.

lok n roll hitch on Pugly.jpg

Crank handle will be strapped when traveling. ;)

So this setup is 30 foot long hitched up, with a 13 foot trailer. All due to the long tongue on it. Well, it's only 3 ft long, and only 9 ft from bumper to trailer tires. The picture is decieving as you focus on the main box to rig distance.

pugly hitched to trailer.jpg


Stay tuned... More coming later this week!
 









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I will be taking orders when this is finished, but the wait time is about 1 year, and I accept paypal for deposits and progress payments. :D

Work will be slowing way down very soon (Next month), and it will delay the progress on this build. One thing about exterior construction work, is we are seasonal in this region. It is what it is, as I can only afford so much, during the low income winter budget months. :( Just glad I have 80% of the big ticket items already.
 






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