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Motor Mount Removal

rydrew55

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City, State
Connecticut
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 XLT
Any ideas how to get the motor mounts out?
The top bolts are OK, but how do you get the lower one. It is on top of the differential on the drivers side. I can't even see it.
RYDREW55
 



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sounds difficult!

Here's a link to a thread that explains the motor mount removal process on a V8 AWD. It should be similar for your SOHC V6. Unfortunately, it sounds like a lot of work. I wouldn't bother doing it unless there are broken bolts, broken mounts or significant deterioration.

Motor Mount PDF's Needed

One potential problem since you already have your engine out. I doubt that you will be able to reinstall the engine with the front differential lowered and supported since it will interfere with the crane. That means that you won't be able to use the engine to align the motor mounts before torquing them as described in the thread. It looks in the photo below that there may be an alignment pin or bolt for the actual mount.
LoomMnt.jpg

Ignore the red arrows. The photo was originally posted regarding the wiring loom attachment to the block.

Here's a closer look. There definitely is a guide pin, bolt or rubber plug shown in the photo that can be used for alignment.
UPLOOK.JPG

The holes in the mount to block plate are significantly larger than the bolts so there should not be a problem with torquing the mount lower bolts before installing the engine.

The photo below indicates that there are two alignment pins on each mount. One in front and one aft of the main bolt.
TransSpt.jpg


The existance of a single guide pin is confirmed in Rock Auto's photo of a 98 mount shown below.
98mount.jpg
 






would the mounts be different between V6 and V8?

here's the driver's side on mine.
almost directly behind the shock tower.
it was a royal PITA to loosen and tighten.

P1000768.jpg
 






would the mounts be different between V6 and V8?

here's the driver's side on mine.
almost directly behind the shock tower.
it was a royal PITA to loosen and tighten.

P1000768.jpg

Those 2 bolts are the top side of the mount which attach to the metal plate which attaches to the motor. To remove the actual rubber mount, there is a bolt below. On the 2wd like streetrod, it seems you can get to the bottom nut. On the 4wd like mine, it is above the differential and I see no way to remove it. I think I will leave sleeping dogs lie and forget about changing them. I was just doing it because the truck is old and the motor is out.
If anyone knows an easy way, well maybe I'll give it a shot, otherwise, I'll return the new ones to napa.
Thanks guys.
Rydrew55
On second look, is that the bottom side? Is it a 2wd?
 






One of the pics is the bottom on a 2wd Explorer...

That bottom nut and the rusty pin is very similar to my 2wd Explorer setup of the bottom of the frame that holds the engine mount...Minus the rusty pin...

I wish I knew of a way to get the bottom nut off and replace your mount...I can't say I ever saw that area on the bottom side of a 4wd Explorer though...

For what it is worth, when I replaced my engine this spring, I considered replacing the mounts and did not because they were just as solid as the new ones...I didn't feel the need to go with new ones after trying to flex them and not being able to do so...And these are the original mounts with 169k on them...
 






Procedure to replace motor mounts on '99 Mountaineer

Procedure to replace motor mounts on '99 Mountaineer

The above procedure is thorough and fairly detailed. The differential has to be unbolted, lowered and supported to do either side. It also has to be levered laterally to gain access to the underside nuts. In addition, other things have to be removed. In my opinion, unless the bolts are severed or the rubber like material is broken or extremely deteriorated it just isn't worth the effort.
 






fughedaboutit

Procedure to replace motor mounts on '99 Mountaineer

The above procedure is thorough and fairly detailed. The differential has to be unbolted, lowered and supported to do either side. It also has to be levered laterally to gain access to the underside nuts. In addition, other things have to be removed. In my opinion, unless the bolts are severed or the rubber like material is broken or extremely deteriorated it just isn't worth the effort.

Thanks, that makes my decision. Leave them alone and return the new ones.
 






Could you post the oil filter mount on the Mustang engine?

I would like to see where it mounts and how it mounts... You might not have any clearance issues if the mount keeps the oil filter under the right side manifold...
 






Oil Filters are different

I would like to see where it mounts and how it mounts... You might not have any clearance issues if the mount keeps the oil filter under the right side manifold...

Hi Ranger7ltr,
I will post some pics when I get a chance in the other thread (engine swap 98 sohc) where there has been some discussion on this. The filter does sit a little different, about 1/4" more forward on the mustang. I will be doing some measurements to see what effect it might be.
 






Any ideas how to get the motor mounts out?
The top bolts are OK, but how do you get the lower one. It is on top of the differential on the drivers side. I can't even see it.
RYDREW55


The only way to access the bolts for the motor mount to frame is to drop the front axle out of the truck. I am doing my mount with the motor in the truck. Because of that I will be removing the front axle. With 187,000 mile it needs cleaning anyways. I will post some pics next weekend when the mayhem begins.
 












The photo on top is of a 2000 Explorer Limited V8 engine mounts and the photo below that is of a 2002 Sport 4.0 SOHC engine mounts
 






They are different. So if you are planning a swap you will need the V8 mounts.
 






The differential does not need to be removed. There are several (3?) bolts that hold the axle to the frame. If you remove those bolts, the differential and entire center section of the axle can drop down several inches. At that point, you can access the bolts holding down the motor mounts (it's still tight, but definitely possible at that point).
 






Just curious if you can pop the axles out from the housing after you have dropped it from the frame to remove the housing entirely?
 






Just curious if you can pop the axles out from the housing after you have dropped it from the frame to remove the housing entirely?

that would not be an easy task.
the inner-joint plunge doesn't really have or allow that amount of lateral movement.
 






That's what I was afraid of. Thanks
 






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