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Installed aftermarket hitch

Joined
August 28, 2018
Messages
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City, State
Beaufort, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
2017 Ford Explorer Base
I installed the GB5Z-19D520-C hitch on my base 2017 explorer with the V6. I know the trans cooler and oil cooler and bigger brakes are key but aside from that, can I haul my 1967 Mercury Cougar on a one way trip from Lancaster, PA to Gloucester, VA on a car hauler from U-Haul without killing myself?
 



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Is this type car hauler the kind that has two wheels, and the front or rear wheels of the car being towed (heaviest side) is off the ground? If so, be sure to remove the driveshaft of the Cougar if the car is an automatic transmission. If you plan on using a full trailer type (four wheels) car hauler, best check the "gross tow rating" of your explorer, a car + trailer will likely be too much weight to safely tow.
 






You are going to be quite a bit over wight. The car itself will go around 3500 lbs and the trailer another 1500-2000 for a total weight around 5000-6000lbs.

Even the factory hitch and tow package is rated at only 5000 lbs. The aftermarket hitch drops you down to 2000lbs capacity.

How about just renting one of the U-Haul trucks to do it? I haven't looked at them lately but if you can get one on a day rate with unlimited miles you can drive down to Va and then back to Pa to drop off the truck and trailer and pick up your Explorer. A lot better than having something happen to the Explorer.
 






The total weight you have is not correct. I’m hauling a 1967 Mercury Cougar. That has a lot of lighter parts and some stuff removed but even stock it weighs just over 2k lbs. the hitch itself is aftermarket but is a class 3. The only reason ford says class 1 (2k lbs limit) is due to there not being a trans cooler and bigger brakes (from what I was told) my question pertains to asking if anyone has legitimate knowledge of the structure of the mounting point in which the hitch is bolted to. (It changes the game quite a bit of its mounted to a little aluminum panel vise the frame)
 






Kind of a Heavy Load there.

Really might be pushing the limits.

If you do keep the Over Drive "Off" on your Ex.

Keep the speed down as much as possible.
 






I am also very likely to use a car dolly and not a full trailer. (Least preferred method but it brings weight strain down a little on the frame)
 






best check the "gross tow rating" of your explorer, a car + trailer will likely be too much weight to safely tow.

You are going to be quite a bit over wight.

Kind of a Heavy Load there.

Really might be pushing the limits.

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Fiberglass body, interior gutted, engine and trans all light weight racing ****. Reasons why I’m not driving the dam thing to VA. If it was stock I would just drive it the 5 hours and not trailer it... and that site has incorrect information. I will find the documents I have on it when it was originally purchased by my grandfather to get the exact weight of the vehicle stock.
 






how Is the aftermarket hitch mounted? Is it directly to the frame? That is my only question.

The hitch itself is technically a class three, the base explorer does not have a trans cooler, or bigger brakes that would be included with a tow package stock. I’m not asking this because I need everyone to tell me that stuff. I’m asking this because I don’t want to hitch to rip out of the back of my explorer when I put the dam thing in drive. Can someone please answer me that one simple question, how is the hitch installed? Is it directly to the frame or not??? What is the maximum tongue weight? I can find anything consistent to answer that...
 






Just tow the car with a dolly, they work great. I have towed a lot of cars with dolly's before. A tow dolly has zero tongue weight, the heaviest part of vehicle being towed (front or rear) must be on the wheels of the dolly, if not you will have a dangerous sway problem. If you tow with the front of the car on the wheels of the dolly, if the car being towed has an automatic transmission that you disconnect the driveshaft to the rear tires. A properly set up tow dolly is very stable, even at interstate speeds.
 






A tow dolly is also hard on the steering.. you my find powersteering fluid puked out onto your shiny engine if you have many turns on your route, but you probably have a flaming river so OP should be good there. Also can't back a dolly up effectively, so you always have to leave yourself an exit. It can suck if you take a wrong turn. Also, along with the near zero tongue weight, when taking sharp turns on gravel (like navigating a tight dirt lot packed with semi's) the car and dolly will want to push the rear into a jackknife when trying to stop with surge brakes. There is thousands of pounds of rolling force trying to push your rig sideways in the dirt on the ball on the very rear of the vehicle. Maybe more stable on a 5th. But as far as that, put a good cover on it, whatever your tires kick up on the road will be flung toward the Merc.

Sure you don't want an enclosed trailer and a rented truck?

Sorry, I know nothing when it comes to 5th gens. Can't help there.
 






Just tow the car with a dolly, they work great. I have towed a lot of cars with dolly's before. A tow dolly has zero tongue weight, the heaviest part of vehicle being towed (front or rear) must be on the wheels of the dolly, if not you will have a dangerous sway problem. If you tow with the front of the car on the wheels of the dolly, if the car being towed has an automatic transmission that you disconnect the driveshaft to the rear tires. A properly set up tow dolly is very stable, even at interstate speeds.
Are there any safety concerns which the “push and pull” of the dolly on the hitch? That’s why I ask if anyone knows if the structure of the mount is stable enough to handle pulling a car behind.
 






A tow dolly is also hard on the steering.. you my find powersteering fluid puked out onto your shiny engine if you have many turns on your route, but you probably have a flaming river so OP should be good there. Also can't back a dolly up effectively, so you always have to leave yourself an exit. It can suck if you take a wrong turn. Also, along with the near zero tongue weight, when taking sharp turns on gravel (like navigating a tight dirt lot packed with semi's) the car and dolly will want to push the rear into a jackknife when trying to stop with surge brakes. There is thousands of pounds of rolling force trying to push your rig sideways in the dirt on the ball on the very rear of the vehicle. Maybe more stable on a 5th. But as far as that, put a good cover on it, whatever your tires kick up on the road will be flung toward the Merc.

Sure you don't want an enclosed trailer and a rented truck?

Sorry, I know nothing when it comes to 5th gens. Can't help there.
I tried doing the U-Haul truck and trailer but they won’t allow you to rent a pickup with a car hauler. And I’m not paying hundreds for a box truck that I absolutely don’t need
 






@ColdBloodedUSMC ,

Have you priced having it hauled by a commercial car transport company?

Might be cheaper that tearing up your rig and getting into an accident.

Or Rent an F-250 from Hertz or someone like that.

Just a suggestion sir.
 






Your truck isnt rated for it. Your limit is 2,000 pounds. The cooling (radiator?) and transmission aren’t the same. There’s a reason it’s rated for 2,000. It’s more than just the hitch, and coolers. Will your hitch rip off? Probably not. Is it still a good idea? Probably not.

Quite sure the Cougar (stock) is over 3,000 pounds.
 






@ColdBloodedUSMC ,

Have you priced having it hauled by a commercial car transport company?

Might be cheaper that tearing up your rig and getting into an accident.

Or Rent an F-250 from Hertz or someone like that.

Just a suggestion sir.
Way too expensive and I don’t trust anyone driving that car on a hauler. Did that many years ago and they destroyed so much stuff that I had to fabricate because they don’t make anymore... and can’t find a truck rental that isn’t crazy expensive.
 






Your truck isnt rated for it. Your limit is 2,000 pounds. The cooling (radiator?) and transmission aren’t the same. There’s a reason it’s rated for 2,000. It’s more than just the hitch, and coolers. Will your hitch rip off? Probably not. Is it still a good idea? Probably not.

Quite sure the Cougar (stock) is over 3,000 pounds.
I have built many of cars in my life... I know the difference between a radiator and a trans cooler... and if it’s more then the hitch and the transmission cooler and brakes then what is it because it’s pretty weird that the same exact truck with those things from the factory is rated for 3,500lbs... unless you are telling me it’s some kind of fairy dust that only comes from unicorn horns then what use is your reply if you don’t have facts... please explain why it’s not a good idea??? And what about the dolly? That has been the route it seems I will go as of now.
 






The trucks with the tow package have an increased capacity radiator. They have a different transmission. They very well might have different differential gears. Do those sound like “the same truck” to you? If you were going to tow, you should have purchased the actual “towing package”. You know, made for towing.

Are those things “fairy dust” to you? If you come somewhere for advice, and chose to ignore the vast majority then you seeking it is the one whose post is useless.

I’ll make it as clear as possible. Your truck is light duty. For these to be capable of towing a load they need to be specially equipped. This is more than just a transmission cooler and a class V hitch. It’s not “fairy dust”.

That said, I highly recommend you load a car that is heavier than you believe it is and tow it 5 hours. I hope it works out great for you.
 



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