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4.0 SOHC Metal Thermostat Housing Comparison




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I just received that one a week ago, the parts look very good.
 






Figured price went down lol
I did not use the thermostat ...junk
Same with the hose
I also used thermostat housing rtv on the two halves along with the gasket I assembled it to dry

I love opening the hood and not smelling coolant
 






Figured price went down lol
I did not use the thermostat ...junk
Same with the hose
I also used thermostat housing rtv on the two halves along with the gasket I assembled it to dry

I love opening the hood and not smelling coolant

What, I like that sweet smell.

I'm smelling gear grease now, I have a small box that just came with friction modifier in it. The box is sealed, it just stinks.
 






I hate coolant leaks
I want my wife to be able to go from dessert to mountains
 






I hate coolant leaks
I want my wife to be able to go from dessert to mountains

Go through the cooling system methodically. My 98 truck had a couple of tiny leaks, and the radiator started getting bad in Spring. I finally got to it, replaced the radiator, balancer(couldn't do the WP(broke a bolt and wasn't ready to fight others), all six coolant hoses, and thermostat. The cap was already new, but now I see regular temps of 172 or less. In high heat of 90's, max was about 190 all day. Now with days in the 50's to mid 60's, my temps show under 150 most of the time, highs still at some time hit 175ish. I have the old Scan Gauge to monitor it constantly, it shows the highs for the current trip, the day, yesterday, and the tank run. I look at it often during my work day, I love seeing lower temps than 200-220 like many people report. The T'stat is a Robert Shaw 180, it's likely opening a little early, which I love.

Cooler is better for everything as long as the engine tune keeps it in closed loop. These Explorers have wonderful cooling systems, huge radiator front areas. Without a T'stat, temps would be about 50-75* over ambient.
 






Go through the cooling system methodically. My 98 truck had a couple of tiny leaks, and the radiator started getting bad in Spring. I finally got to it, replaced the radiator, balancer(couldn't do the WP(broke a bolt and wasn't ready to fight others), all six coolant hoses, and thermostat. The cap was already new, but now I see regular temps of 172 or less. In high heat of 90's, max was about 190 all day. Now with days in the 50's to mid 60's, my temps show under 150 most of the time, highs still at some time hit 175ish. I have the old Scan Gauge to monitor it constantly, it shows the highs for the current trip, the day, yesterday, and the tank run. I look at it often during my work day, I love seeing lower temps than 200-220 like many people report. The T'stat is a Robert Shaw 180, it's likely opening a little early, which I love.

Cooler is better for everything as long as the engine tune keeps it in closed loop. These Explorers have wonderful cooling systems, huge radiator front areas. Without a T'stat, temps would be about 50-75* over ambient.
I know about closely looking it over when I put in a new engine I put a new plastic housing on it lasted a week
After doing this over and over on the old engine
I did not want my beautiful new painted engine to get it to so I replaced all the hoses the rad with the spectra premium 2row metal t housing 192 motor craft. T stat new water pump and pulley
So new cooling system no leaks for a while
 






Excellent, most issues come from skipping one or more items etc.
 






What, I like that sweet smell.

I'm smelling gear grease now, I have a small box that just came with friction modifier in it. The box is sealed, it just stinks.
@CDW6212R
I knew a guy whose room mate was a Chemical Engineering major. He brought home a tiny vial of one type of Mercaptan, "skunk oil". Kept UNDERWATER, the stink pervaded the apartment anyway! Almost as bad as friction modifier, but hey, the **** works! imp
 






Thanks for posting this!

I recently had a frozen tensioner pulley destroy the belt and the engine got a bit hot, a thousand miles from home and towing the boat. No engine damage, but it opened up the seam on the thermostat housing. I was able to get a plastic replacement quickly from NAPA and back on the road.

I just ordered the metal Austekk housing, knowing this will be a more reliable option than the Chinese one I just installed from NAPA. I'll put some copper RTV on the seam as suggested.
 






I just installed an Austekk ATK-8592-ACCS on my 2001 Gen 1 to replace the recently installed thermoplastic NAPA S4402AT that started to leak after ~ 1,500 miles.

I had to re-use the NAPA thermostat outlet nozzle, the one that came with the Austekk was at the wrong angle and interfered with one of the rigid emission canister tubes that go to the intake.

Access the rear lower housing bolt is greatly enhanced by removing the thermostat outlet nozzle and the sensors.

Austekk Lower Install Step 1.jpg
Austekk Lower Installed.jpg
Austekk Thermostat Outlet.jpg
NAPA S4402AT Thermostat Outlet.jpg
 






That line was kinda in the way but I just moved it as it is a little bit flexible look at post #12
 






I wish both companies would work on making the top piece (thermostat outlet) more accurate for the applications we have.
I have two metal thermostat housings with plastic top housings on two of my supercharged explorers.
At one point I am sure they will start leaking.
 






Wanted to give a shout out to great service from Armadillo Auto Parts (seller bfoot58 ) that sells the Austekk aluminum thermostat housing on eBay. I sent them an E-mail with pictures to alert them of an installation interference with the thermostat outlet nozzle on a Gen 1 Sport Trac engine.

They replied quickly and stated they would send a different outlet nozzle, which I received a few days later. Pictures below. The top picture is what they shipped initially, bottom picture is the correct nozzle for the Gen 1 application.

IMG_5871.JPG


IMG_5872.JPG
 






That looks like the same one that is needed for my 1998 Explorer too.
Do you happen to have a part number for that particular top part?
 






No, but if you contact the eBay seller, he should be able to take care of it.
 






Wanted to expand on this topic a bit more to illustrate the root cause of plastic thermostat housing failures at the weld joint.

The new plastic thermostat housing that started leaking shortly after I installed it shows evidence of weld line separation and where it leaked. See attached.

Of most interest are the date codes on these parts, they were molded several months apart before welding. This is key to understanding the failure.

These parts are molded from glass filled nylon, which will absorb moisture from the air. Nylon parts should be welded together immediately after molding to prevent moisture absorption. This moisture absorption has a great effect on weld strength, as documented in DuPont's literature regarding best practices for welding nylon:

" b. Effect of Moisture on ZYTEL® Nylon resins absorb somewhat more moisture from the air after molding than most other plastics. When released from joint surfaces during welding, moisture causes poor weld quality. For best results, parts of ZYTEL® should either be ultrasonically welded immediately after moulding or kept in a dry-as-moulded condition prior to welding. Exposure of 1 or 2 days to 50% relative humidity at 23°C is sufficient to degrade weld quality by 50% or more . . ."

I would only install an aluminum thermostat housing on one of these engines. The welded nylon ones will fail.

S4402AT Weld Line Separation.jpg


S4402 Lower Date Code.jpg


S4402 Upper Date Code.jpg
 






Interesting, but whatever the cause of the failure, the metal housings are the much better choice. I will discontinue recommending even the Motorcraft plastic replacements in the future.

This information should be posted in the Helpful Threads for everyone's future reference.
 






The Austekk housing I recently installed has developed a leak at the upper housing to heater hose joint. After watching this awesome video, I understand why. It is a threaded steel tube to aluminum connection with a sealant that did not hold up after ~1,000 miles.



I have ordered a Simmons housing to solve this leak issue once and for all. Stay tuned for future updates.

Knowing what I know now, I can only recommend the Simmons housing for this engine. The plastic and Austekk ones have more potential for failure. Check SimmonsAutosportz and learn why Jonathan Simmons has created a solution for this problem.

Austekk Housing Leak.jpg
 



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simmonsautosportz for the win!
 






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