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V8 swap thread discussion

G-Switch
The G-Switch was older technology, they later changed it to a sensor cluster with Yaw, Roll, Lateral, and Longitudinal sensors.
Then they took all those sensors and put them in the RCM (restraints control module) in newer vehicles.

From Fords description and operation:

The G-switch is used on 4x4 vehicles only. When driven in the 4-wheel drive mode all four wheels are mechanically linked and a situation could arise in which one wheel locks up and causes all four wheels to lock up and skid. The speed sensors would indicate the vehicle speed as zero. Without the G-switch, the anti-lock brake control module would have no data to compare and would react as if the vehicle were stopped when in fact it is moving.

The G-switch detects and signals the anti-lock brake control module whether or not the vehicle is moving.
 



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Could you have used the old ABS module and tied pin 10 at the ABS to Pin 58 at the PCM?
I didn't realize before that the pins were different at the ABS module (pin10 in 1998, pin 19 in 2001)
 






G-Switch
The G-Switch was older technology, they later changed it to a sensor cluster with Yaw, Roll, Lateral, and Longitudinal sensors.
Then they took all those sensors and put them in the RCM (restraints control module) in newer vehicles.

From Fords description and operation:

The G-switch is used on 4x4 vehicles only. When driven in the 4-wheel drive mode all four wheels are mechanically linked and a situation could arise in which one wheel locks up and causes all four wheels to lock up and skid. The speed sensors would indicate the vehicle speed as zero. Without the G-switch, the anti-lock brake control module would have no data to compare and would react as if the vehicle were stopped when in fact it is moving.

The G-switch detects and signals the anti-lock brake control module whether or not the vehicle is moving.

Interesting. Is there anything related to that which might be the cause for the ABS to unlock all four wheels when one tire locks at low speed on gravel?

That's a common occurrence in these 2nd gens. When say the right front hits a patch of leaves while slowing down, enough to lock that one tire, the brakes become disabled and the truck keeps going instead of slowing down. It does the same thing on snow or ice, one tire locks sooner(at slow speeds), and the ABS limits braking to all tires. I wish there was an improvement to make for that.
 






I don't know but...
The rear brakes can be on one hydraulic channel if it is split into two at the rear.
That would mean the two fronts are controlled separately but the rear would not be.
I think that is how our second gens are.
 






We have 3-channel brakes, one rear brake line and one rear sensor.

When one front tire locks up right before stopping, all of the brakes let go due to the ABS system. I regularly roll past mailboxes whenever there's loose gravel or leaves etc, on the road, and I'm near maximum braking. I have to see that coming and stop sooner or slower, which takes more time. In the snow or somewhere that has an object in front of you, that can be very bad.

I don't know if using a four channel ABS would help, but I haven't considered it, because our ABS modules condition the rear signal into a VSS output. That would require altering the PCM system to make use of a direct ABS signal, or a later trans OSS signal, or something else; a lot of trouble.
 






Could you have used the old ABS module and tied pin 10 at the ABS to Pin 58 at the PCM?
I didn't realize before that the pins were different at the ABS module (pin10 in 1998, pin 19 in 2001)
OK, neither of the harnesses that I have use pin 10 on the abs module. For some reason Mitchell 1 doesn't show this vehicle. I believe it is grouped up in an Explorer Sport Trac group or something. ALL the schematics I look at don't jive. So back onto this pin 10 thing. I don't have an issue putting my original abs module into the vehicle but why wouldn't the ABS module from another vehicle not recognize my ABS system? I checked and all the ABS sensors are the same as far as the front two and the rear. The ABS module I pulled off the 5.0L was manufactured 09/99. If i can get the speedometer to work with my original ABS module- I will happily go back. This is really starting to get to me!

Also the claim is that the GEM module is behind the radio but when I remove that module the doors, one touch down, remote key and everything still works. That tells me that this is not the correct module. Where would that module be located in the sport? It is clear there is major amounts different than the 4 door. Dang! I just thought I knew these things.
 






The remote key fob uses a module in the rear behind the left rear panel (factory lug wrench is in there too)
The windows use relays, I don't even remember where they are. Maybe under dash or in engine compartment in a small relay box?
 






Sorry, pin 10 would have been the 1998.
I am getting your two vehicle swap mixed up.

The 2001 module would have been pin 19 like you stated earlier.
That would get tied into circuit 679 like you said you did already.

But then you said you changed the ABS module? I am confused please forgive me I was blonde when I had hair. LOL
I would stay with the 2001 ABS module that came with the 2001 truck you put the V8 in.
Would that maybe work?

So to be clear it is a 1998 5.0V8 put into a 2001 Explorer Sport V6 sohc?
Was the 4.0 A4WD?
was the 5.0 AWD?
I think you would change the GEM module to match the engine (GEM from 5.0 AWD).
 






The GEM in 2nd gens should be to the left of the radio, with three connectors I believe. If it had A4WD in the 2001, the AWD doesn't use it, but who knows if the 4WD circuits would cause any issue, the 4WD light on the dash for instance.

The window power should come from the small relay box under the column, I thought the auto down function was in the GEM.

The keyless entry module and lock relays are in the LR quarter panel.

Projectthread091.JPG
 






That's a great photo.
You can see where the keyless entry door pad code is blacked out in the picture, This is where you get the code if the previous owner didn't give it to you.
 






I have went through the abs connector and the only pin that is not populated in mine is pin# 11.
pins are as follows:
2001 Sport; 2000 model 4 dr
  • Pin1 - ; Or/wht
  • PIn2 Rd/Gr; Rd/Gn
  • Pin3 Y ; Y/rd
  • Pin4 Y/blk; Y/blk
  • Pin5 - ; -
  • Pin6- ; -
  • Pin7- ; -
  • Pin8 blk; blk
  • Pin9 Y ; Y
  • Pin10 - ; -
  • Pin11 - ; pk/blu
  • Pin12 - ; -
  • Pin13 Blk/wht; Y
  • Pin14 Blk/or; Or/blk
  • Pin15 -; -
  • Pin16 Grn; Grn
  • Pin17 Tan/or; Tan/or
  • Pin18 tan/blk; tan/blk
  • Pin19 blk; gry/blk
  • Pin20 gry/pk; blu/pk
  • Pin21 rd/pk; rd/pk
  • Pin22 grn/blk; grn/blk
  • Pin23 blue/wht; blu/wht
  • Pin24 RD; RD
  • Pin25 BLK BLK
The semi colon separates the sport and 2000 model. It is difficult to see here. Once I posted it removed the separation which kinda made it look like a column,. Now it looks like a jumbled mess. Once you study for a sec you will see what I am talking about. The - means that number was not populated for the model.
 






The remote key fob uses a module in the rear behind the left rear panel (factory lug wrench is in there too)
The windows use relays, I don't even remember where they are. Maybe under dash or in engine compartment in a small relay box?

Mine isn't located there. That was the first thing I looked for to try to retrieve my door code as I did in my 98. The left hollow space is empty in there on the 2001 Sport. I would love to know what my door code is as well.

Sorry, pin 10 would have been the 1998.
I am getting your two vehicle swap mixed up.

The 2001 module would have been pin 19 like you stated earlier.
That would get tied into circuit 679 like you said you did already.

But then you said you changed the ABS module? I am confused please forgive me I was blonde when I had hair. LOL
I would stay with the 2001 ABS module that came with the 2001 truck you put the V8 in.
Would that maybe work? I went and got a different GEM module today out of a 9/99 Explorer 4 dr. It looks completely different than mine or what I think is mine. I have reason to believe the Sport when it changed body style followed the Sport Trac and the explorer 4 dr followed the old school 98 stuff. I don't have the resources to validate that.

So to be clear it is a 1998 5.0V8 put into a 2001 Explorer Sport V6 sohc?
Was the 4.0 A4WD?
was the 5.0 AWD?
I think you would change the GEM module to match the engine (GEM from 5.0 AWD).
I am unsure of what year the engine came out of. The engine harness matches the 2000 harness I have laying in the floor.
The GEM in 2nd gens should be to the left of the radio, with three connectors I believe. If it had A4WD in the 2001, the AWD doesn't use it, but who knows if the 4WD circuits would cause any issue, the 4WD light on the dash for instance.

The window power should come from the small relay box under the column, I thought the auto down function was in the GEM.

The keyless entry module and lock relays are in the LR quarter panel.

View attachment 163722

Shouldn't the one touch down, remote locks and all come from the GEM module? If so then when I unplug the module near the radio all that still works. My dash does stupid sh** but otherwise all is the same. Relays are underneath the column. My 2001 Sport was rwd 4.0 sohc. The engine I took out of the donor was at least a 98 due to the trim on the rear hatch. As far as the engine it all runs great. Everything outside of the engine is the issue. ABS would work but the speedo wouldn't. If we can figure out how to get the speedo to work I will go back to the original ABS unit without complaint.
 






Those electrical changes in 2001 are the issue I think. Ford moved several of the dash and relay stuff around. That 2001 model was full of changes like some things in 1997.

I think it should end up being just wiring connections you need to make(or the speedometer itself), move wires to various pins in the connectors. I say that because the transmission evidently functions fine, and that relies on the PCM and VSS signal to work right. So the speedometer issue should not be related to the VSS and ABS, because the PCM is receiving a proper VSS signal.

If that is true then try to trace the VSS circuit from the input to the PCM, back to where it should come from the ABS. Meaning the VSS is supposed to lead to the PCM and speedometer from the same wire/circuit. If that does lead to the speedometer(also check that the dash connector matches from the models, in case Ford changed those also), then the issue would have to be speedometer itself.
 






I believe I have it figured out. Will be a few days before I can get back on it. I have 4 cars to tune this week after work (yes a real 40 hr JOB). So, as soon as I get an opportunity I will look into this I will see if what I have up my sleeve will work. Right now I have my Sport loaded onto my trailer behind my Cummins powered Titan XD heading to my buddys trans shop. We are going to make some small changes to the trans tomorrow. This is one of those deals I will tune his car and he will do some labor to the trans. Fun, fun!
 






Let me know if you need any more wiring diagrams or connector views.
I would just need to know year/model/etc.
 






Ok-I have both the ABS and the speedometer working now. There was apparently a late model year wiring diagram for my 2001 Sport. So once I found that it detailed the black wire on pin 19. Clearly we all agree the 5.0 had a gray/blk wire feeding both the speedometer and the ecu with engine speed. Being my Sport was a late model year it showed the blk on pin 19 (which was not used) so that clarified whether to worry about that or not. How I got both to work I simply put my ABS module back on and used only the electronics from the older 5.0L abs module. Pins 8,19,20,21,22,24 & 25 all had to be tied in from the existing wiring for the new ABS connector to work. So technically the original ABS module does only abs and I got the connector from a donor vehicle so I could use the old 5.0L abs module (removed from the alum block-it only reports speed). So there you have it-problem solved. It is clear the new communication protocol is different from the old but you have to incorporate a little of both to get what you want.
 






Glad you got that worked out.
Funny how ford doesn't even list an early or late model in their wiring diagrams.
I guess they are more concerned about the newer vehicles now and older information may not be updated.
 






The 01 sport / sport trac has a job 1 and job 2. The job 1 trucks are the same as 99-01 4dr but the job 2 is more similar to the Ranger.

The way you can tell if your truck is a job 2 is you'll have black plastic valve covers and 1 pc plastic intake manifold. Also you'll have the rounded Ford pats key instead of the square.

Of course youve already figured the wiring out, just added this info other people.
 






After reading all this does anyone want to finish my swap? My brain is taxed.
 



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Ok-I have both the ABS and the speedometer working now. There was apparently a late model year wiring diagram for my 2001 Sport. So once I found that it detailed the black wire on pin 19. Clearly we all agree the 5.0 had a gray/blk wire feeding both the speedometer and the ecu with engine speed. Being my Sport was a late model year it showed the blk on pin 19 (which was not used) so that clarified whether to worry about that or not. How I got both to work I simply put my ABS module back on and used only the electronics from the older 5.0L abs module. Pins 8,19,20,21,22,24 & 25 all had to be tied in from the existing wiring for the new ABS connector to work. So technically the original ABS module does only abs and I got the connector from a donor vehicle so I could use the old 5.0L abs module (removed from the alum block-it only reports speed). So there you have it-problem solved. It is clear the new communication protocol is different from the old but you have to incorporate a little of both to get what you want.
jah, I have a 2002 Ex Sport mfg before 2/2002 that I am swapping a 2000Ex 5.0 into. I have both vehicles and I see that you have done extensive r&r on your project. What do I need to do to get this wired right before I assemble this. I am a little confused about what you did.
 






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