Experts, I need some help.. (Rear axle assembly)

[Aliceinchainsaw]

@Aliceinchainsaw working with your original diff:

1. Remove the diff cover and drain the oil out. Also see if you can remove the fill plug
2. Using a tight-fitting box wrench or socket carefully remove the cross pin lock bolt (8MM?)
3. Remove the cross pin (don't be concerned if the 2 small spider gears walk out). Usually the cross pin will just slide out once the lock bolt is removed, sometimes a little persuasion is needed
4. Push the axles into the diff, which is easily done once the cross pin is removed
5. Using a magnet, remove the "C" clips from the ends of the axles
6. Once the "C" clips are removed the axles can be easily pulled out
7. Using a seal puller (a large screwdriver can also work) remove the axle seals
8. Using a Ford axle bearing removal attachment on a slide hammer, remove the old bearings
9. Clean out the ends of the axle tubes with parts cleaner and lubricate with fresh gear oil
10. Install the new bearings using a bearing/seal installer tool and large hammer. You'll be able to hear and feel when they're fully seated.
11. Pack the backs of the new axle seals with grease and Install the new axle seals
12. Clean & lube the part of the axles where they will ride on the seals and reinstall the axles (do your best not to drag the axles across your new axle seals)
13. Replace the axle "C" clips and pull the axles outward to seat the "C" clips in the side gears
14. Reinstall the spider gears and cross pin using a new cross pin lock bolt and thread locker (I use Loctite red/permanent thread locker on the lock bolt, which requires heat to remove in the future, but I suppose blue thread locker would also work).
15. Clean any old sealant from the diff cover and its mating surface using a scraper and parts cleaner.
16. Apply a decent amount of Permatex Ultra Black RTV to the diff cover (no gasket is needed) and attach to the diff screwing in the bolts only finger tight. After several hours you can tighten the cover bolts all the way.
17. Wait 24 hours for the sealant on the cover to fully cure before adding oil
18. Refill the diff with 3 quarts of hypoid gear oil (synthetic gear oil is recommended but expensive. 80W140 conventional hypoid gear oil can be used and is 1/3rd the price of the synthetic. On a diff with 260K on it, I'd use the less expensive conventional oil.

I recommend Timken brand (or National) but here's an example of a axle bearing and seal set on eBay:
Rear Wheel Bearing&Seal Assembly for 83-05 Ford E-150 F-150 Ranger 8.8"Ring Gear | eBay

Note: Replacing the pinion seal (should you decide to do this) is more easily done with the diff fully reinstalled in the vehicle, because you'll need to have a way to prevent the wheels from turning while you remove/reinstall the pinion nut. If you pinion seal isn't leaking currently, you may want to skip this step for now. You can always do it later. You can chose to replace the crush sleeve, but this makes the job much harder and there is a cheat for this. Again, with a diff with 260,000 miles on it you may want to save a few bucks where you can.

Some videos on the job can be found at the link below:
video on replacing ford 8.8 axle bearings - Google Search

Super clear, thank you.
Gathering a few items and cleaning up my work area to start into this tomorrow night.

 

[koda2000]

Super clear, thank you.
Gathering a few items and cleaning up my work area to start into this tomorrow night.

Using the slide hammer on a rear end that's not in the vehicle may make it a bit harder to pull the bearing out. It may help if you can wedge against something or chain it to an immovable object.

 

[donalds]

80 % sure the crosspin will be bent or broke don't reuse it replace it the new one has locktight on it as I said above and a few people repeated

If you replace the pinion seal and don't replace the crush sleeve 80% chance of a leak
If you do it out of the truck all you need to hold the flange is Place a punch in a unused hole in the pinion flange it will rest against the housing then give her hell

I replaced my seal without touching the crush sleeve it leaked sad I know Benn there hope you don't do that if it is not leaking now and your not gonna rebuild the the axle leave it alone


If your gonna tear into it do the job correctly just the way I was raised
Taking the easy way is what got you here in the first place

 

[donalds]

@koda2000 ford axle barring slide hammer attachment do you have a pn or a pic
This is what I use https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CQ9963E/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ARHTXJNP710LD&psc=1

 

[Aliceinchainsaw]

Just to get this straight these are the specialty tools I will need?

Slide hammer to pull axle bearings
Axle bearing and seal installer kit


Think I can nab these for around 100.
Anything more?

 

[donalds]

Yep to just replace the outer barring s tools you listed are fine

There are six barring s in total 2pinion 2carrier
And 2axle shaft barring s

 

[gmanpaint]

2 &3 jaw slide hammers, & seal installers, can be rented for free at most chain auto stores. No need to buy them for a one time use.

 

[donalds]

2 &3 jaw slide hammers, & seal installers, can be rented for free at most chain auto stores. No need to buy them for a one time use.

True I guess I like having tools so I tend to buy

 

[Aliceinchainsaw]

2 &3 jaw slide hammers, & seal installers, can be rented for free at most chain auto stores. No need to buy them for a one time use.

Good to know, thanks I'll call around a bit.

I have a few days since parts are coming from rockauto.

 

[donalds]

I hope we have given you a idea of what is involved remember ask questions

 

[Aliceinchainsaw]

Here we are so far.

I have the axle up on stands and took the diff cover off to drain out. I went ahead and ordered the slide hammer, bearing and seal removal tools, bearing and seal installation tools. 1 magnetic retrieval tool. 2 bearings and seals and 1 crosspin bolt. (So I am waiting on those). I bought the tools because I don't know how long this will take me and I don't want the auto store giving me grief. Plus.. now I have the tools forever.

Looking into the diff, where exactly is the crosspin bolt?

I see two bolts on either side which I would guess need to be removed in order to get to the C clips?

Here are some photos.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yep, you got it right. The bolt you circled green is the cross pin bolt. Carefully remove that. They get weak over time, and break. Once broken, they are hard to remove as they tend to break below the shoulder, at the last thread, and you can't reach them. If that happens, long left hand drill bits are needed to get them out. Skyway makes a removal tool, just for this, and is around $35.

The blue circles bolts are the bearing caps. When you remove these, mark them with a punch & hammer. 1 punch for left, 2 punch for right. Mark them at the top only. These have to go back on exactly as you removed them.

Clean the heck out of that thing before you do anything. 4-5 cans of brake cleaner should do it, after you drain & rag it.

 

[Aliceinchainsaw]

Awesome, glad I didn't do anything further.

I will give that a go tomorrow.

When you say mark them - do you mean the bearing caps or the bolts themselves. Or all of it?

Once bearing caps are out this is when the axle can be slid in and the c clips can be removed?

 

[gmanpaint]

The bearing caps. You can also mark the housing after removing the caps next to the bolt holes to match the marks in the caps. Each cap is machined for each housing individually. This is the reason not to mix them up.

You remove the axles before you remove the carrier. Spin the carrier (turn the axles) until you can see to remove the C-clips. Once the axles are out of the way of the carrier, you can then remove it. Some 8.8 housings need a spreader to remove/install the carrier. Some do not, and just using a prybar under it, and gently forcing it out works.

If the same carrier is going back in place....
When you remove the carrier, keep each sides shims together the same as they was in, and use a ziptie to keep them in order, and each side separated. Pc of tape, marked left/right helps too.

If you remove the pinion gear, it has to have the backlash set. This is best left to a shop or someone that has experience setting gears. If your crush sleeve is loose, or you need a new one, this will have to happen anyways, and they need the entire axle to do this.

Have you seen this thread yet? Might help a little to get you started.

How To: Replacing Rear Axle Wheel Bearings

 

[Aliceinchainsaw]

Sweet, that thread looks very similar to what I'm trying to do.

 

[donalds]

I put a link to skyway tools ...tool above
I also put links on how to do everything you are asking I would watch those videos to help you understand a little better

This job is not to hard just take your time
If your pinion is not leaking don't mess with it
If you do you Will need more tools like beem style torque wrench

 

[Mbrooks420]

I put a link to skyway tools ...tool above
I also put links on how to do everything you are asking I would watch those videos to help you understand a little better

This job is not to hard just take your time
If your pinion is not leaking don't mess with it
If you do you Will need more tools like beem style torque wrench

Why would it need to be a beam style torque wrench?

 

[CDW6212R]

If you haven't taken the differential out yet, first compare the R&P gears, and the axle bearings.

If the ring gear looks okay, not pitted or with extra sharp edges, I'd hope the problem is just the axle bearings. The axle bearings are the weakest links. Those usually go first from old gear oil etc, and then the bearing particles slowly kill the differential itself.

The axle bearings are easy to change, but the differential is a whole different process, special tools and much more knowledge required.

So if the gears appear okay, and an axle bearing seems bad, I'd just replace the axle bearings and then drive it. Between two 8.8 rears, one should have an acceptable diff, in it. Does the pinion seal leak on one of them, or both? Analyze the problems first, and avoid having to go into the differential bearings.

 

[donalds]

A beam style in pound torque wrench to check the rotational force or barring pre load ...crushing the crush sleeve... the crush sleeve puts force on both sides of the pinion barring s
Setting preload 15-20 in pd rotational force
It took me two crush sleeves of trying because 1/16 of a turn is the window to hit the 15-20

Last vid I posted on page one shows you the procedure


I still say if it ant leaking or barring s are good don't mess with it
I just wanted to get all the info out there and if he changes the gears then he will need a dial indicator gauge and a magnetic base to set backlash all in the vids above .

 

[koda2000]

You would only need a beam torque wrench if you're replacing the pinion seal and crush sleeve. In which case it take about 190 ft pounds or torque to crush the sleeve. If your pinion seal isn't leaking, leave it alone.