2011 3.5L misfire cylinder 2 and 6 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2011 3.5L misfire cylinder 2 and 6

Gleisure

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2011 Ford Explorer xlt
2011 ford explorer 3.5l. I experienced the dreaded water pump failure and local dealership replaced the engine with a brand new motor for $7500. Afterwards we went on vacation only to have the check engine light flash under heavy loads in the mountains or hard acceleration. The vehicle will continue misfire on deceleration for some time upon which it will recover itself. We took it back and there was no stored codes! So I had to recreate the condition and live with it till the engine light finally remained on. They retrieved codes for misfire on cylinder 2 and 6. Replaced coil packs $600. Weeks later upon passing another vehicle same thing. So completely fed up I removed the intake plenum myself and replaced all coil packs and plugs thinking maybe something overheated the coil packs from the original engine failure. Unfortunately today upon hard acceleration same flashing. So decelerated and kept repeating until the dang light stayed on. When this happens the vehicle stays in misfire mode for about 20 to 40 seconds. It will recover itself every time and run normal at idle. The vehicle runs great all the time unless under heavy load I lose cylinders 2 and 6 confirmed again by reading engine codes. No other codes are present. Can someone please help before I soak more money at the dealership
 



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First off I doubt that two coil packs would fail at the same exact time and the symptoms show up under exactly the same circumstances. I would assume you had new plugs when they replaced the engine so that was a long shot. I would have moved the coil packs to see if you get the misfire to occur on two different cylinders. I know you hate to go to the dealer but changing all the coil packs is killing a flea with a shotgun. Cam sensor? Sure sounds like ignition related. If you had a new engine did they move the coil packs from the old engine?

How many miles on you vehicle when the water pump failed?
 






Did you get any kind of warranty on the work that was performed? If they installed a new engine and it isn't running right, you really should address the issue with the dealer that did the work. They should be troubleshooting their work and rectifying the problem.

Was the new engine a short block or long block? Was it new or reman? The new engine could have a problem. Something (component/wiring) could have been damaged when transferring it from the old engine to the new engine.

It bears repeating, but anytime you have a misfire condition and a flashing CEL/MIL, continuing to stay on the gas and ride through it can cause even more costly damage by doing so - to the engine itself and/or the cats.
 






Yeah so the new engine had brand new plugs. I never experienced misfire with the old engine. It was a long shot. Anyways ford replaced just the two coil packs. Afterwards I discovered it was cheaper to buy a set of 6 aftermarket and as it was still misfiring I wanted to eliminate the whole plug coil pack doubt. Put platinum plugs in removed even fords brand new coils just put in so I have no doubt that plugs and coils are good to go. The new engine was complete except for plenum and fuel rail up. Water pump failed as everyone describes temp gauge didnt go up lost power and destroyed itself at 143000 no warning. Calling dealer today
 






Yeah engine is under warranty but coil packs and stuff from old engine are not so I wanted to put a stop to the whole old coil pack excuse
 






Yeah engine is under warranty but coil packs and stuff from old engine are not so I wanted to put a stop to the whole old coil pack excuse
The shop that did the work should warranty their work - all of their work. If they put a new engine in and there is a problem with the engine, one should go back and let them diagnose and fix. Once you start replacing stuff, especially with aftermarket parts, you "muddy the waters" so to speak with the shop that did the work. I know it sucks to spend a **** ton of money on something, only to have to spend more on basically the same thing, but the shop did a lot of work and may have missed something, messed something up, or put in a bad part. Stuff happens - best to let them sort it out, document everything, pay with a credit card so you can file a dispute if necessary, and consider touching base with an attorney if the situation warrants it. Don't give them any ammunition that they can/may use against you.

Worst case scenario, you may have to take the car to another shop for diagnosis/repair. Again, I know it sucks to have to pay for re-repairs, but if you are going to pay anyway, may as well have it done elsewhere so you get another set of eyes on it and maybe they find something done wrong or broken and that is something you can use in a CC dispute or refund request against the original shop.

Misfires aren't always just an ignition issue. You could have an air problem (gasket/vacuum leak affecting 2/6) or a fuel problem (maybe fuel injector issue on 2/6).
 






I would say the same - try to get the dealer to fix it after you spent so much money paying them for a new engine.
Get the service manager, let them work with Ford if they have to. This appears unacceptable to me. For 7500$ you could have leased or bought a 2nd car almost.

Technically if this was a new engine, all components should be new, right?
Or they replace only the block and head and internal parts?

One could probably start and swap injectors places (2 for 3 and 6 for 5) and see whether misfiring changes cylinders.
And except injectors as others suggested could be sensor(s). Not familiar with this engine, but there should be a camshaft sensor that is involved in the timing as well.
I am positive that if the issue can be reproduced with "live" monitoring while car is driving one should be able to see it in the realtime data/values.
 






Sounds like you got some good advice here. I would be at the dealer also demanding they fix it after I shelled out $7500. Ford should bear some of the brunt here also by the mere fact they built an engine that can self destruct with no warning to the user by a simple leaking water pump! Absurd.
 






/////////// The vehicle runs great all the time unless under heavy load I lose cylinders 2 and 6 confirmed again by reading engine codes. No other codes are present. Can someone please help before I soak more money at the dealership
Welcome to the Forum.:wave:
What were the codes that were showing??

Peter
 






Sorry o Reilly read codes off I don't remember the code number. Only misfire cylinder 2 and 6. Random misfire
 






Something does not smell right, read what he said, "Afterwards I discovered it was cheaper to buy a set of 6 aftermarket and as it was still misfiring I wanted to eliminate the whole plug coil pack doubt. Put platinum plugs in removed even fords brand new coils just put in so I have no doubt that plugs and coils are good to go". His original post said he had to pay $600 to replace two coil packs. If in fact this is a new engine with everything from the factory why would the dealer charge $600 to replace two coil packs that were factory fresh?
 






Something does not smell right, read what he said, "Afterwards I discovered it was cheaper to buy a set of 6 aftermarket and as it was still misfiring I wanted to eliminate the whole plug coil pack doubt. Put platinum plugs in removed even fords brand new coils just put in so I have no doubt that plugs and coils are good to go". His original post said he had to pay $600 to replace two coil packs. If in fact this is a new engine with everything from the factory why would the dealer charge $600 to replace two coil packs that were factory fresh?

I see what youbare saying. A new engine complete would have a 2 year unlimited mile warranty so there would be no reason to be charged for 2 coil packs or labor.
 






Hi guys. This is scheduled to go back to dealer this week. Keep in mind a new engine does not come complete with coil packs. The coil packs from the old engine were placed on the new. Same with injectors and everything on top. Plugs were new. That is why they charged. The old engine never ever misfired so I trusted them that maybe they were overheated or something. Fast forward a bit and it still is happening intermittently under heavy load. That's why i replaced them all. For now I know that there is no issue with coil packs. They essentially charged me 600 to throw parts on that didnt fix it. Anyways their parts are back on it to go to shop. If they call me and tell me it's another coil pack they got another thing coming
 






ask them to test the injectors or switch them to elimimate this as a posibility.
The rest is sensors I would guess (if mechanically this 'new' engine is good).
As I said before, if they are not helpful then escalate to Ford.

btw, also advance spark and knock can be monitored live if you can reproduce the issues.
 






Hi guys. This is scheduled to go back to dealer this week. Keep in mind a new engine does not come complete with coil packs. The coil packs from the old engine were placed on the new. Same with injectors and everything on top. Plugs were new. That is why they charged. The old engine never ever misfired so I trusted them that maybe they were overheated or something. Fast forward a bit and it still is happening intermittently under heavy load. That's why i replaced them all. For now I know that there is no issue with coil packs. They essentially charged me 600 to throw parts on that didnt fix it. Anyways their parts are back on it to go to shop. If they call me and tell me it's another coil pack they got another thing coming
Just to note - it isn't that the shop has to warranty all of the parts, but the shop has to warranty their work. They can't just throw an engine in and say not our problem if it doesn't run right. If it turns out there are other parts that are bad, then they need to explain and let you know. They can't just guess, throw parts at it that may or may not work, and charge you along the way until they figure things out or you get sick of it and move on...
 






Thanks KayGee I agree and I think that's what made me so upset. It's pretty obvious I threw $600 out the window on the coil packs so I'm very on edge about what they come back with. Dropped it off today so I'll find out tomorrow. Real funny how it ran perfect before with the old engine and all sudden the new engine has misfires.
 






The part swap idea is great leverage also. That should have been done with the coils imo. If they come back injectors or something that was fine on old engine I'm going to ask for supporting data like this and no payment till I road test. Thanks all
 






Dealer called is ready no charge thank God. Adjusted programming for cam sensor is what I'm told will update later if I confirm fixed.
 






Dealer called is ready no charge thank God. Adjusted programming for cam sensor is what I'm told will update later if I confirm fixed.

Not sure what dealer means by "adjusted programming for cam sensor". When you go in, get detailed info.
 



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Not sure what dealer means by "adjusted programming for cam sensor". When you go in, get detailed info.
Sounds like dealer just doing CYA.

Bigger concern for OP is to question why the $600 charge for additional repairs that more than likely weren't necessary if it was just "cam sensor programming". I would push for that answer and ask for a refund of the $600 (or file a dispute if paid by CC). Also, ask for any parts/coils/whatever that were replaced if you paid for the repair - if you didn't already get them and they weren't required for core.
 






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