Found my ghosts in the machine

[PotatoExplorer]

Glad I could assist. Checking and fixing my harness cured sooooo many issues that just didn't make sense, and didn't cost me anything (my roll of electrical tape must be 20 years old).

I'm trying find a way to re-post my original photos. Anyone know how?

Did you post from a 3rd party site like Photobucket.com? I believe Photobucket silently ceased 3rd party hosting of pictures (which they've offered for free for the last 14 some odd years) and basically broke every forum on the internet.

 

[tripplec]

Yeah which is the downside of those forum who refuse to allow picture and document uploading. It make the older posts effectively almost useless then without the reference photos. With TB HD available for so long you'd think that would have changed. Mods or site owner will lose people to better sites over time. Its a pain to go through the post to an image site then insert the image links into the correct mode of the post so it works.

 

[Bobmbx]

Did you post from a 3rd party site like Photobucket.com? I believe Photobucket silently ceased 3rd party hosting of pictures (which they've offered for free for the last 14 some odd years) and basically broke every forum on the internet.

Yeah, Photobucket.

 

[PotatoExplorer]

You should still be able to log into your Photobucket account and grab any of your older uploaded pictures. You'll then have to upload those photos to another photo hosting site that allows 3rd party hosting. I found this nice article written earlier this month that gives you a few alternative websites - https://www.lifewire.com/free-image-hosting-sites-3486329

I've been meaning to go back and relink the photos of the few threads I started but I've been tight on time...

 

[Beachcomber86]

Bump to the top again. Thread seems to be needed and probably aught to be pinned.

 

[tripplec]

The board need to get current and accept direct photo postings. Two others I am on have already. Using another sharing site is just another time bomb and it will happen again. Also many posters have moved on to other vehicles and years no long in the treads. Finding and fixing takes a lot of time if they even remember them now. I was on a Jeep forum for 10 years. I don't remember what threads I provided photos to from Photobucket. Looking at photos there doesn't equate to the old threads especially when I posted thousands of replies and feedbacks etc along with my own I had started. Its all mixed in time.

 

[Beachcomber86]

Bump

 

[PotatoExplorer]

Thanks Beachcober86, I reread this thread as it appears to relate to what I just did -
Another P2135 Thread - Orange Wrench

To Bobmbx and everyone else that contributed to this thread, thank you. To anyone at Autonation Ford North Scottsdale that might read this some day, please do some research. I should be paying for your expertise, not your guesses. You have lost my business.

The short version: I have been in P2135 hell for the last two years. This summer, it went to a whole new level with the error occurring almost every day. Add to that, the fan clutch kicking in on an ice-cold engine. I kept my code reader in the truck at all times to manually reset. Once the dash indicators would go from green to amber, I've got really damn good at pulling out of traffic lanes, slipping into neutral, shutting the truck off, and restarting it.

The dealer diagnosis: The third throttle body they put in is still good, the alternator is 'generating RF interference' and that is what is causing the A/B voltage reading on the throttle position sensor. Bad alternator, happy to replace for $900. Oh, and the fan clutch is bad, too.

Second opinion at independent shop: Alternator is fine. Never heard of 'RF interference' causing something like that.Not sure what is going on. At that point, I was thinking ECM. Until I read this thread.

I read this post and decided to split open the engine wiring harness to see what's up. Nothing to lose. I can't say that I saw anything obvious, but I wanted to treat this like a controlled experiment to eliminate wiring as a possible cause. I purchased the same high-temp plastic flexible as the OEM, but smaller gauge. I also picked up some 3m Super 88 high-temp tape and went to work. I ended up creating "mini-harnesses" to separate the fan clutch, throttle body, alternator, groups of wires.

After 9 days of code-free driving and not one single fan clutch "roar," I am just about ready to declare victory. My investment in this fix is approximately $10, including tax.

Again, thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread. For those of you in P2135 hell and searching the ExplorerForum answers, there is hope.

Ourthirdexplorer, just to make sure I'm understanding this - you split open the harness and found no evidence of wire insulation damage but bundling everything back up nice and neatly solved your problem? And question on the "mini-harnesses to separate the fan clutch, throttle body, alternator, groups of wires" statement - aren't those wires already separated as they get close to those components? Or are you talking about that you split them wayyyyy up the wire harnesses, like 12+inches from the components and bundled from there? I got pretty close to where a lot of the wires started converging together but with no evidence of wire insulation damage, I decided to stop ripping apart the pretty pristine OEM factory tape.

 

[Beachcomber86]

Bump.

Although not electrical, check the vacuum line on the manifold. If you rub it and it turns your fingers black, replace it! It's not leaking enough to throw a code, but your beast will be happier!

$5 of fuel line is all it takes.

 

[Beachcomber86]

Recent issues: After my repairs, the beast is mostly golden. However, on trips to the beach, she like to snort and stumble. Any ideas where to look? Once we get 50 miles inland all the issues go away, even if it is raining. Strange.

 

[Beachcomber86]

Bump

 

[ng07exglenn]

Thanks Beachcomber86 for leading me to this post.

Potatoexplorer did you ever go back over your harness and attempt the mini harness and did it work for you? I just did some of mine nearly 2 cylinders back on the passenger side when I noticed the the next round of factory taping and decided not to go any further because the condition of the cable didn’t seem to warrent it. I did this about a couple weeks ago before the last P2135 from the other day.

Thanks
Nick

 

[PotatoExplorer]

Hey Nick,

Nope, haven't decided to go back through. Got kind of sick of messing with it. I had maybe one CEL since then but it hasn't come back. Took the Explorer on a few trips since trying to tackle this, totaling a few hundred miles each, with no problems. It seems the more I dig into this Explorer the more it fights back. The more I leave it alone the less problems it gives me. So I've been leaving it be for the most part and it has did a number on my sanity

 

[ng07exglenn]

I haven’t attempted yet, this is what I did about the 20th of October for the first time in the photo after I kept getting the P2135 code every few miles. I stopped when I ran into the next bundle of wraped tape under the plastic. I also went down to the MAF (it looks brand new too) while I was at it (nothing visible or alarming), i placed some cheap eBay (herko) TPS sensor which seems to run better at the moment that I only picked up to test before i grabbed another motorcraft part a month ago. It blew one P2135 a week ago but I didn’t pull the battery to reset it (better then every few miles). I plan on Cleaning today by taking some CRC electronic cleaner to the cable end and check how my cheap-electoral-tape-job is doing.

Quick history:
I bought this back in August 2018, noticed an antifreeze smell and no puddle at time, figured it might be a radiator or hose. Found it to be the the bypass hose for the hvac rear heater core and the overflow tank. I added a bunch of pics to help anyone else : Slow coolant loss on V8
The overflow tank makes sense because the radiator on the carfax mentioned it was replaced 2 twice in the past 20-30k miles. It blew a code then disappeared on me within the first 2-3 weeks and then nearly stalled on me in traffic. I got the code and I stopped by napa and the guy behind the counter mentioned the pedal sensor. He double checked my my throttle body I assumed it was new and tried a pedal/sensor to only get the code again. Then I tried 2 more TPS next and I’m here still chasing the ghost. But if the CRC helps, I’ll update.

On a side note, I called my personal mechanic I’ve used for over a decade and after what I mentioned he suggested the dealership, but it looks pretty scary from the multiple posts about dealers tossing parts and your money at the problem.

Nick

 

[PotatoExplorer]

Just curious, have you changed/checked the COPs? Could you also refresh me on what your code means?

 

[ng07exglenn]

Funny you mentioned COPs, I just watched a video about those coding transmission issues if they’re cheap coils or failing.

P2135:
What the P2135 code means. This particular trouble code indicates that the Power Control Module (PCM) has detected an erroneous reading regarding the voltages transmitted by throttle position sensor A or B, the accelerator pedal position sensor and or the actual throttle plate.

I have not touched the COPs yet since I never say a misfire yet.

Nick

 

[PotatoExplorer]

Id definitely try and figure out when the last time the COPs were changed and see if any of them are cheapos from eBay/China just as preventative maintenance and just to rule that out.

I remember having that same code but it was caused by the cheap ass TPS that Autozone included on their throttle body when I replaced it for the factory throttle body. I had then placed the old factory Motorcraft TPS onto the AutoZone throttle body and was still getting that code. Finally replaced that old factory TPS for a new Motorcraft TPS and that seemed to fix everything. The electronic accelerator pedal could be a possibility and was going to be my next part to replace but they are not cheap (and neither are 8 COPs!).

 

[ng07exglenn]

I checked last night and I have 6 OEM COPs, which 4 are on the driver side bank. I have a Denso and a no name that’s at the last cylinder (#4) on the firewall near all the wiring and PCM. I would presume the Denso would be a okay with my knowledge of Toyota’s main brand. I’ll switch out the COP this week, just debating on whether to try wrecking yard pull (oem) or buy a new Delphi I found on amazon till I get the funding to do the spark plugs and all COPs at once ( + lisle tool for broken ones).

My rig had what I thought to be a new TPS and throttlebody, so have replaced the pedal. But I had to switch to a cheapy TPS because it would through a code/wrench every few miles on the oem. I hope to try and switch back to the oem, but is the COPs solve it I’ll wait till I do my spark plugs. They’re not orginal but according to the carfax I’m getting close to 70k on them.

My no name pic or COP:

 

[ng07exglenn]

I wanted to updated everyone, I purchased another coil pack just for that odd one in the back. I haven’t heard the greatest reviews but I purchased an ACCEL coil for hard to pass up price to test this out. I installed it late last night and of course drove my normal commute today and it was like driving a different vehicle from a shifting stand point. It sounds a little different at start up too. Time will tell on whether it cures my P2135 code and wrench I was receiving but I have a feeling it may.

The odd-ball no name coil looked like a recent switch out, it has like only 5 numbers on it and no other details with a grey boot. All done right before I purchased this vehicle I’m sure. I’ll update in the next couple weeks, it’s runnjng good and I have a cheap TPS sensor I’m tempted to switch back to the motorcraft. I may just leave it alone for now.

Thanks everyone,
Nick

 

[Tike]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the pedal accelerator to PCM to ETC / TPS?

one day i hit a pot hole and got these codes.
P2135 TPS Sensor Voltage Correlation A/B
P2112 Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Closed
P2111 Throttle Actuator Control System Stuck Open
P2104 Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Idle

i was able to clear them after 15 minutes and the truck ran fine for 2 weeks. then after driving for minutes i got the wrench again going 50mph. could still rev the engine but no power to Trans. pulled over turn off car. would start then stop immediately, or not start at all.
was P2135 code. again after 15 minutes or so i was able to clear to code nd wrench and get home. next day car immediately got the wrench light. i have a brand new FOMOCO TPS (upgraded version sitting in the glove compartment.

last week i peeled back the wiring harness for the TPS and ETC and checked the wires, both sensors's contact were clean and the wires were fully shielded although stiff like they were exposed to high heat - My Manifold and their shields have rusted out and arent deflecting heat downward anymore (6 months or so). so i peeled apart the stuck wires for the TPS. these wires had there shielding melted together and in peeling them apart,the shielding peeled off the individual wires exposing them. i separated the wires until the emerge from the large harness, wrapped each in electrical tape, making sure to cover the expose wire area, then wrapped them all into a harness and covered that with black corrugated wire shielding. no errors yet.

the reason i ask about the diagram is because i install some extra lights and spliced into the wire harness in driver side kick panel for rear turn signals. and wanted to make sure there were not any wires for the throttle in there (not sure why there would be) that could some how have gotten knicked / exposed and now are grounding into the body.