Solved Still NO brakes!

[boominXplorer]

I'll also vote replace rear calipers. Also to be clear on both of those new front calipers the bleeder screws are toward the top of the calipers correct?

 

[IronCurtain]

They're kinda on the side-ish but I'm 99.973% sure they're installed correctly, because for some reason the drivers side had a $40 core charge, the other 3 were $20. I made 100% sure I put the $40 on the drivers side. There'd be no other way to install them, unless I put the drivers on the passenger side.

Pouring rain right now I'm waiting for it to stop so I can replace the rear calipers.

 

[410Fortune]

That's right ...........if you put the caliper on the wrong side of the truck the bleeder would be at the bottom and air would be trapped at the top never to be removed.......that's why he asked
Get those rear calipers on good luck!

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Bleeders should be above where the line mounts in the system. Replace the rear calipers, my money is that's a lot of your problem.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Yes of course I'm going to replace rear calipers and pads. But not having those right now, I don't think, isn't causing the problem of my brake pedal going all the way to the floor and not even slowing me down a tiny amount. I literally have ZERO brakes.

I didn’t take this as an “of course” since you claimed you drove around for weeks with known faulty brakes.

 

[IronCurtain]

Put the rear calipers on but haven't bled yet, waiting for a helper to do it right. Calipers were super easy except one thing....on the passenger side I went to put the bolt through, but the metal sleeve part the bolt goes thru on the caliper wasn't hollow! It was blocked half way thru like it was never completely honed from whatever factory makes them. Couldn't make this **** up. Had to take the metal sleeve out of the old caliper and put it in the new one, to fit the bolt through. Will bleed tomorrow and report back.

 

[410Fortune]

I believe you are talking about the slide pin? Make sure they are clean and lubed, factory defect or not.

Quality control ain't wait it used to be eh?

 

[IronCurtain]

A bit of an update:

I haven't had much time to work on it, but I did get the rear calipers installed, and attempted to 1 man bleed the rears. Didn't think it was working for ****, because the calipers and pads were still sorta loose-ish, the way they are right after installation.

I got pissed off and put everything back together then when I got in the car and put it in drive (brake pedal still to the floor with almost zero resistance), it didn't move...foot off brake it moved forward. So I have at least SOME braking power....now it's hardly anything, the pedal goes to the floor and there's no pressure build up, but hey, it's something.

Also, it's snowing here in Rhode Island...so I took it to Wal-Mart parking lot and got up to 20 mph and slammed the brakes, forcing the ABS system to engage. I did this about a dozen times, felt the pedal pulse, and heard the whirring of the system activating. So, if that's what the scan tool does at the shop, then I can be fairly certain that it probably got most of the air out of the ABS system right? I've made sure the M/C reservoir has been filled to the top the entire time.

I also tried to vacuum pump bleed the rear passenger side caliper but it didn't seem to be doing much, and it started snowing so u had to stop.

Can't wait to 2 man bleed all 4 calipers tomorrow, and get the rest of the air out of the system..if it doesn't work ima be upset

 

[410Fortune]

the air will move down to the calipers, not leave the system
You have more bleeding to do

I have done that before, get the abs pump to activate and the air will get pumped out.....downstream

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, you'll have to bleed the full system out. If you already think the fluid in it is new/clean, you can use a proper clean catch bottle, and reuse what bleeds out. Discard any brake fluid that you think is old(discolored etc), and after that it's fine to reuse what is bled out of the calipers.

See if your parts stores carry a special bleeding bottle. I have a couple made by Motive that have a built in hanging wire, plus the tube that goes down into the bottom. Those are more handy than any container you come up with around the house.

 

[96eb96]

A 95? I don't even think a scan tool will work. You have find an ancient brake bleeder harness and adapter. They are probably floating around ebay. The redneck way in the parking lot should do the trick though.

 

[410Fortune]

After bleeding 10000000 calipers over the last 26 years I have discovered a very simple trick:
I use a one man bleeder bottle to catch the fluid, it has a rubber connector that fits snugly over the bleeder nipple. The trick I have learned is to keep the bottle ABOVE the caliper, this way air does not go in and out.....it only goes out and into the catch bottle

I really like the self bleeders that go over the master cylinder reservoir and PUSH fluid through the system, those things are awesome

 

[CDW6212R]

Here's the one I got this past Spring, it's $54.90 on Amazon now.
Motive Products 0107 Power Pressure Brake and Clutch Bleeder For Ford
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJ5DZE2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is slick. I used my first one to push with fluid in the pump/container, and I left some of the brake fluid in it when I was done. The fluid softened the hoses and made it crack at a tight bend I had in it during storage. So I need to replace the hose, thus I bought a new one.

I suggest only using the unit to push air, I filled it so I wouldn't have to top off the reservoir while flushing the whole system. That wasn't necessary, you shouldn't push that much out to do basic bleeding.

 

[IronCurtain]

What do you mean "only use the unit to push air"? I'm not exactly sure where or how much air there even is in the brake lines.

 

[CDW6212R]

What do you mean "only use the unit to push air"? I'm not exactly sure where or how much air there even is in the brake lines.

I was talking about the tool. It attaches/seals to the MC in place of the reservoir cap. It's a hand pump in a container that creates pressure in the reservoir. When it's pumped up to 5-10psi, you simply open a bleed screw, and the fluid comes out into your hose and catch container.

I just suggested use the tool empty(only air inside). The first time I used it, I poured about a liter of brake fluid into the container. Then pumping it up starts to push the fluid through the hose into the MC reservoir. That does keep the reservoir from emptying, which was what I wanted. But you must clean the hose out well after using the tool, you can't leave any brake fluid in the hose. I forgot to clean it, actually I was planning to use it very soon again on my other car, but it won't work on the Mark VII's(unique brake system and reservoir cap).

 

[IronCurtain]

Ahh gotcha. I might give that a shot if I still can't get the system bled tomorrow using 2 person method.

 

[Mbrooks420]

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MVA8...t=&hvlocphy=9014885&hvtargid=pla-568857232722

If you can regulate your air low enough these work, as well.

 

[massacre]

I use a bleach sprayer filled with motor oil to prime engines after they are built.
Bleach sprayers use viton o rings that can handle the oil.
Same principle as the pressure bleeder, I have used those too.

 

[IronCurtain]

Well I tried to 2 man bleed all 4 new calipers...no positive results. Went RR, LR, RF, LF.

My helper said at first it took 6 pumps to get pressure, then I'd loosen bleeder valve: some fluid, and some air would come out, I'd tighten valve, then he'd release pedal. Then it would take 3 pumps to get pressure, same sequence...then move to next caliper. Did this about 5-7 times at each caliper. But once I moved to next caliper, it would take 6 pumps again to get pressure, and same sequence. All 4 calipers. At the end, the pedal still goes all the way to floor and doesn't build pressure with multiple pumps. I still have only extremely minute breaking power, and it's the rear calipers that are working slightly. Which is weird because I felt like there was almost no air in the front 2 calipers, compared to the 2 rear ones.

I'm lost.

I have ZERO leaks from any part of the breaking system. Could air be getting in the system from somewhere, but not leaking fluid there?

I'm just going to have to bring it to a shop...im at a loss as to what to do.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Replace the master cylinder.