99 Mountaineer 5.0 with lots of DTCs

[newstylecustoms]

I bought this Mountaineer from a junk yard a few years ago with the intent of just using the engine and tranny, but since then my son has turned 16 and we are trying to make it driveable for him. It currently has a long list of DTCs and runs horrible, no power. Below is a list of the codes I pulled and the meanings I found. It has no cats and three O2 sensors are missing so I will be fixing those issues.

p0155 O2 Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1
p1451 EVAP canister
p0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1
p0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow
p2011 Intake Manifold Runner Circuit Open Bank 2
c0140 PRNDL Reverse Input Circuit Failure
p2000 NOx Trap Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1
p0002 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Range/Performance
p0900 Clutch actuator -circuit open
p2880 ??

The one that I think is leading to the no power issue is the P0002 code. I found a video of a Ranger with a similar condition, the weird part is the lighting issue. When the lights are turned on the left turnsignal stays on solid, when I turn on the left turn signal all the dash lights flash instead or the turn signal. I am guessing this is a bad ground somewhere but I don't know where to start. If someone has the EVTM and wouldn't mind leading me in the right direction I would much appreciate it.

 

[410Fortune]

First you need to get exhaust under there with the 3 02 sensors, then see how it runs
All of these codes are basically meaningless until you get that done.

The oxygen sensors are VITAL to the performance of the engine........without them forget everything else, all of he other codes could be due to the missing pieces.

Your best bet is source the stock exhaust parts from a 98-01 Explorer or Mountaineer V8, junk yard or private party. Junk yards are not allowed to sell used cat converters, so private party may be your best bet

 

[newstylecustoms]

Gotcha on the front o2 but do the rears have to be connected for it to run properly? I ask because it ran fine before I took it to the exhaust shop, once I got it home and off the trailer I had the alternator rebuilt and since then it has run very poorly. I will get the front o2 installed before I do any more. I realize I also need to check fuel pressure but have not had time yet.

 

[newstylecustoms]

It is a 5.0

 

[410Fortune]

Think of your engine as an air pump.
The more air you can pump through it the more power it will make
The only way your computer knows how much air it is using is through the air meters
First the mas air flow sensor meters all incoming air
Then air is used for combustion
Then the 02 sensors tell the computer how much air is left
This is how it knows how much spark and fuel to use and where to adjust timing.
With one upstream sensor unplugged and two downstream sensors unplugged I would expect a myriad of codes. The upstream sensor is vital, the downstream not so much.
You cannot have proper EGR flow, proper EVAC system controls, until the air pump is pumping a steady amount of metered air.....make sense?
First things first.......

Having an alternator rebuilt should not cause any of those codes or an engine to run poorly.....iS the new alt working properly? Battery voltage check out? Charging volts?

 

[newstylecustoms]

Battery voltage is good now, charging at 14.2 while idling.

 

[Turdle]

check fr a Blown fuse .

 

[koda2000]

Sounds like that truck was in the junk yard for good reason. It having set for multiple years wont help either. Rather than put money into that vehicle it will probably be cheaper to find a decent, already running used vehicle for your son. JMO.

 

[410Fortune]

Hey! As a 302 lover I resent that!
just because you rob some parts and shes sat for years doesn't mean give up on her! LOL this is not some SOHC engine truck! hahahaha
Wait a second before you crushing ditching any 5.0 explorers how many miles???

Yes check the fuses good call Jon! If it ran great before replacing alternator and it ran crappy afterwards then always check where you last worked...electrical system, always start with the basics

 

[RandomNerd2000]

If it's been sitting it might be like my parts truck with 124K, what a shame that one is, sat since 2011. It's got about the same list of codes, you need an exhaust first and foremost, find someone stripping a 5.0 and get the cats and that'll get you a good start, and wipe several of those codes out with the O2s being plugged in. Part of those are for the EVAP canister, and one of those sounds like a neutral safety switch, and some of those are transmission related afaik.

 

[Turdle]

Fuse #13 in the power distribution box under the hood.

https://www.justanswer.com/uploads/cheeko12/2007-03-03_173023_fus5.gif

 

[newstylecustoms]

141k miles, last driven December 2015, I started it a few times over the last few years. It is a bit of a long story but only in the junkyard for about a week. I spoke with the previous owner and he wanted $800 for it and would not budge so I walked away. He sold it to the junkyard for $100 then I bought it from them for $500 but they got the cats first.

Wow fuse #13 in all of the systems that are affected. Will check when I get a chance. Thanks for all the suggestions, this forum is always a wealth of information.

BTW I have around $900 in it total now so finding a running driver in better shape for that price is unlikely

 

[newstylecustoms]

Turdle nailed it, fuse #13 was blown! Big thanks for that! As soon as I get to the store to buy more fuses we will see what codes are left.

Anyone have any experience with MIL eliminators? I have seen a plan with a 1 Mega Ohm resister and a capacitor to make my own.

 

[newstylecustoms]

Replaced the fuse and now it runs great again. I haven't driven it long enough for any codes to come back after I cleared them.

I still have a an issue with the lights. The left turn signal stays on and does not flash, any ideas on that one?

 

[Turdle]

Flasher relay under the dash?

Turn Signal flasher location

 

[RandomNerd2000]

MFS? Just replaced one that had my fog lights out and no brights. I've wanted to pick up a 5.0 Mountaineer recently but ain't seen anything at all locally or even remotely close. I like the look more than a regular 2nd gen.

 

[newstylecustoms]

What is MFS?

MFS? Just replaced one that had my fog lights out and no brights. I've wanted to pick up a 5.0 Mountaineer recently but ain't seen anything at all locally or even remotely close. I like the look more than a regular 2nd gen.

 

[koda2000]

MFS = multi function switch. Or as I like to call it the "multi mal-function switch". Turn signals, washer, wiper, high beams. The wires sometimes pull out of the switch's connector or the switch just doesn't make contact due to wear and dirt inside it.

 

[newstylecustoms]

Good info, since I have a parts truck I can try swapping that.

Thanks

 

[RandomNerd2000]

The last one of those I had drop, I lost fog lights because it thought I had on the brights? I didn't have the brights either, just the low beams. At 275K miles, I just got another one out a parts box I have, no idea how many miles are on it but it works and feels tighter so I'm assuming less than 275K